Preface | p. vii |
An end and a beginning | p. 1 |
Getting ready to roll | p. 9 |
Practice makes perfect | p. 19 |
Madagascar, here I come! | p. 32 |
Take two | p. 41 |
Foolhardiness at Foule Point | p. 56 |
Re-fighting the Cold War in the middle of nowhere | p. 67 |
The great Soanierana legal tangle | p. 84 |
Pirate island adventures on Sainte-Marie | p. 95 |
A new visa - and a long, long haul | p. 108 |
Cash crunch at Seranambe … and a love-nest at Mananara | p. 121 |
Drunken beggars and friendly fishermen | p. 135 |
Cape Masoala and some fishing adventures | p. 145 |
Scoring an 'own goal' near Anaova | p. 156 |
On to Cap Est | p. 166 |
Disaster at Antalaha | p. 179 |
Back to the sea | p. 189 |
A fight with a fish - and a fight for life | p. 198 |
My return from the dead - and my first cyclone | p. 210 |
Alive and kicking | p. 219 |
On the way to Cap d'Ambre | p. 227 |
North conquered - going south | p. 234 |
The World Wildlife Fund pirates of Amamaba Bay | p. 239 |
Sanctuary at Tsara Bajina | p. 252 |
Gecko adventures at Nosy Bé | p. 261 |
Terns and turtles … and the Fifth Brother chicken | p. 269 |
Shark attack, heart attack | p. 279 |
Saved by the prawns | p. 287 |
Good and bad things at Mahajanga | p. 299 |
Turmoil on land and sea | p. 308 |
Night shift from hell | p. 317 |
Ad hoc shopping in Tuléar | p. 321 |
Seas down south | p. 327 |
Around the Cape - and into the clink | p. 334 |
A final word by Seamus Reynolds | p. 344 |
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