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The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancien Régime,9780521411196
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The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancien Régime


Author(s): Daniel Roche, Translated by Jean Birrell
ISBN10:  052141119X
ISBN13:  9780521411196
Format:  Hardcover
Pub. Date:  8/26/1994
Publisher(s): Cambridge University Press


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SummaryTable of Contents
This book, the English translation of La Culture des Apparences by Daniel Roche, is a study of dress in France in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Roche discusses general approaches to the history of dress, locates the subject within current French historiography and uses a large sample of inventories to explore the differences between the various social classes in the amount they spent on clothes and the kind of clothes they wore. It is his belief that the choice of clothes, the trade in clothes and the perception of the function of clothing tells us more about the values of a society than the study of any other single commodity. For clothes have different uses according to who is wearing them, and in the period under discussion several discrete markets in clothing had already emerged. Roche's essential argument is that there was a 'vestimentary revolution' in the later eighteenth century as all sections of the population became caught up in the world of fashion and fast-moving consumption. This was an age of sumptuous fashion gravures and of a new press for ladies of leisure which provided their readers with a stimulating mixture of fashion and public affairs. He demonstrates that this was a period of revolutionary change in the ways in which Parisians thought of dress, for men as well as for women. There was a new concern for decency and respectability as well as a desire to impress. Taken as a whole, this book is easily the most thorough and wide-ranging study of clothing and its social meaning that has been written to date.

This book is a study of dress in France in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. In it Roche discusses general approaches to the history of dress, locates the subject within current French historiography and uses a large sample of inventories to explore the differences between the various social classes in the amount they spent on clothes and the kind of clothes they wore.

This book is easily the most thorough and wide-ranging study of clothing and its social meaning that has been written to date.
List of plates
List of tables
Part I. History of Clothing: 1. Clothing or costume? 2. The Quicherat effect and after
3. History, fashion and clothing systems from the seventeenth to the nineteenth centuries
Part II. The Economy of Wardrobes: 4. Towards an understanding of the Parisian clothing system
5. The hierarchy of appearances in Paris from Louis XIV to Louis XVI
6. The contents of wardrobes from the classical age to the Revolution
7. The invention of linen
8. The triumph of appearances: nobilities and clothes
9. The discipline of appearances: the prestige of uniform
Part III. Producing, Selling and Stealing: the Distribution of Appearances: 10. From crafts to customers: the Parisian clothing economy
11. From crafts to customers: tailors, dressmakers, linen-drapers and fashion merchants
12. From theft to resale: another aspect of the clothes trade
13. Caring for clothes: from propriety to cleanliness
Part IV. Truth and the Mask: 14. Clothes in the novel
15. Rational and healthy clothes
16. Fashions in reason and reasons for fashion: the birth of the fashion press in France
Conclusion: The culture of appearances: consumption and morality
Index.

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