| CHAPTER I. First view of Japan - Curious islands - Papenberg - Massacre of Christians - Visit from the officials - Harbour of Nagasaki - Desima of old - Desima of the present day - Japanese factory - Town of Nagasaki - Tea-houses - Salamanders - Buddhist temples - Large camphor-trees - Tombs - Mimic processions - Dr. Siebold's residence - Excursions - Epunga - Natural productions - Scenery - Trade of Nagasaki - Its capabilities as a Sanatarium |
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| CHAPTER II. We leave Nagasaki - Van Dieman's Strait - Gale of wind - Vries's Island - View of Fusi-yama - Bay of Yedo - Yokuhama - Its value as a port for trade - Foreign houses - Native town - Shops - Bronzes, ivory carvings, and curiosities - Lacquer ware - Porcelain - Rock-crystal balls - Toys - Books and maps - Menagerie - The Gan-ke-ro - Surrounding country - Its geological formation |
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| CHAPTER III. Town of Kanagawa - The Imperial highway - Travellers upon it - Princes - Pack-horses - Mendicant priests -Blind men - Beggars, &c. - Visit to the temple of Bokengee - The umbrella pine-tree - Sintoo temples - Scenery - Thatched roofs - Valuable elm - The farmer and his chrysanthemums - Tomi - His one fault - Temple of To-rin-gee - Scenery by the way - Thujopsis dolabrata - Farm-houses - Tea-plant - Fruit-trees - Yedo vine - Vegetables - Trees and shrubs of the district - The male aucuba - Geological features |
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| CHAPTER IV. Journey from Kanagawa to Yedo -Native body-guard - The Tokaido - Civility of the people - Beggars by the wayside - Tea-houses - Kawasaky - River Loga - "Mansion of Plum-trees"- The ladies' platform - Hostess and waiting-maids -Japanese and Chinese ladies compared - Tea-gardens - Sinagawa - English Legation - Hospitality of Mr. Alcock - Large cemetery - Garden and trees - The Yakoneens |
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| CHAPTER V. The city of Yedo - Hill of the god Atango -Magnificent view of the city from its summit- "Official quarter" -Broad streets -Castles of the feudal princes - The inner circle - Moats and massive walls - Clumps of trees - No embrasure or guns visible - Use of the moats and ramparts - Murder of the Regent or Gotiro-Fate of the murderers - The Harikari - Castle of the Emperor - Kasmpfer's description - "Belle Vue" - Population of Yedo - Size of the city |
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| CHAPTER VI. The country round Yedo- Hill and valley - Trees - Autumnal foliage - Views of Fusi-yama - Cottages and farm-houses - Flowers and vegetables - Signs of high civilization - Public baths - Beautiful lanes and hedges-Avenues and groves -Civility of the people - Dogs and their prejudices - Street dogs - Lapdogs - Fire at the British Legation - Mode of giving alarm - Organization of Fire-brigade - Wretched engines - Presents from foreign governments - More suitable ones pointed out |
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| CHAPTER VII. A journey in search of new plants - Japanese College - Residence of Prince Kanga - Dang-o-zaka - Its tea-gardens, fish-ponds, and floral ladies - Nursery-gardens - Country people - Another excursion - Soldiers - Arrive at Su-mae-yah - Country covered with gardens - New plants - Mode of dwarfing - Variegated plants - Ogee, the Richmond of Yedo - Its tea-house - The Ty-coon's hunting -ground - Fine views - Agricultural productions - A drunken man -Intemperance of the people generally |
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| CHAPTER VIII. Residence of the Abbe Girard-Singing-birds-Commercial quarter of Yedo - Shops- Paper, and the uses to which it is applied - Articles of food- Monkeys eaten - Fire-proof buildings - Nipon Bas - Ah-sax-saw - Its bazaars, temples, and tea-gardens - Fine chrysanthemums - Tea-plant - The Yedo river - The city opposite Yedo - Temple of Eco-ying - Its origin - Crowds of people - Curious scene in the temple - Earthquakes -Their frequency - How they are dreaded by the natives - Straw shoes of men and horses |
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| CHAPTER IX. Leave Yedo -Mendicant nuns-Place of execution- Its appearance in the days of Kaempfer - Visit to a famous temple - Field crops by the way - Begging priests - Pear-trees -Holy water - Temple of Tetstze - Its priests and devotees - Inn of "Ten Thousand Centuries" - Kind reception - Waiting-maids and refreshments - Scenes on the highway - Relieved from my yakoneen guard - New plants added to my collections - Names of the most valuable - Ward's cases, their value - Plants shipped for China - Devout wishes for their prosperous voyage |
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| CHAPTER X. Adieu to Yokuhama - Views of Mount Fusi - The Kino Channel and Inland Sea- Presents for the Queen-The port of Hiogo and town of Osaca - Important marts for trade - Good anchorage - Crowds of boats - Islands - Charming scenery - Daimios' castles - Towns and villages - Gorgeous sunset - Village of Ino-sima - Terraced land - "The pilot's home" - River-like sea - Scenes on shore - Clean and comfortable houses - Fortress of Meara-sama - Visit of officials - Their manners and customs - Gale of wind - Extra-ordinary harbour - Southern Channel - Ship ashore - Two Jonahs on board - Nagasaki in winter - Arrival at Shanghae - Plants shipped for England |
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| CHAPTER XI. Return to Japan-Kite-flying at Nagasaki - Spring flowers - Field crops - Gale of wind in Van Dieman's Strait - Arrive at Yokohama - Insect and shell collecting - Reported difficulty in getting assistance from the natives -How to manage Orientals - Rare beetle - Dr. Adams's account of its capture - Curious mode of catching fish-Visit Kanagawa - Agriculture in spring-Paddy cultivation- Mode of manuring the land - Winter crops nearly ripe - Trees and flowers- "The Queen of the Primroses" |
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| CHAPTER XII. Invitation from the American Minister to visit Yedo - Inland road - Nanka-nobu tea-garden - Extraordinary Glycine - Pleasant lanes and hedges-Civility of the people- Arrive at the American Legation - Guard and spies - Large tree - Unpleasant diplomatic correspondence - Nursery gardens in the country visited - Summer flowers and new plants - Return to Yedo - A ride in the country - Mr. Heuskin's tomb - "Temple of Twelve Altars" - Poets' Avenue - How a drunken Japanese makes himself sober - Shoeing horses - Departure from Yedo - General remarks on the city and suburbs |
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| CHAPTER XIII. Return to Kanagawa - Moxa and acupuncture - Mode of performing these operations - Their supposed value - Prospects of better medical and surgical knowledge in Japan - Roadside altar - Ladies at their prayers - The conclusion of the ceremony- Field crops and spring flowers at the end of May- Commencement of rains - Beautiful rainbow - A violent earthquake - Burning rape-stalks for manure - An English strawberry found - New plants discovered - Vegetables and fruit in the markets - Entomological notices - Land shells - A Buddhist congregation - Their mode of worship - Amusing visit from the congregation - An interval in the service - Its conclusion |
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| CHAPTER XIV. Journey into the country - Fine views by the way - Town of Kanasawa - Our inn - Visit to a temple - The visitors' book - Crowds in front of the inn - Their manners and customs - Japanese bed-rooms -Natural productions - Uncultivated land- Remarks on the extent of population in Japan-Fine views - Kamakura the ancient capital-An insane woman-Her extraordinary conduct - Our inn at Kamakura - Large bronze image - Its interior - Crowds and their behaviour - A tiffin and a siesta - Visit to the temples of Kamakura- The sacred stone - Yuritomo's tomb- A from Japanese history - Return to Kanagawa |
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| CHAPTER XV. Assassinations - Supposed causes- The innocent suffer for the guilty -Japanese desire for revenge - Midnight attack on H.B.M. Legation - The scene next morning-Supposed reasons for the attack - Document found on a prisoner - Its translation - Opinions of Japanese ministers - True reasons for the attack - Instigators known - Weakness of government - Causes of its weakness -Its sincerity - The difficulties it has to encounter - Murder of Mr. Richardson - News of a revolution in Yedo |
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| CHAPTER XVI. Climate of Japan - Dr. Hepburn's tables - Hottest and coldest months - Monsoons - Gales of wind - The rainy season - Earthquakes - Agriculture - Rank of the farmer - Rocks and soil - Cultivation of winter crops - Seed-time and harvest - Curious mode of harvesting -Summer crops on dry land -Mode of planting - Manures - Crops requiring irrigation - Cultivation of rice - Other crops - Animals few in number - Waste lands- Crops and seasons |
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| CHAPTER XVII. Other productions of Japan - Silk, tea, &c. - Silk country - Value of silk - Tea districts - Curious statements on tea cultivation - Value of exports from Kanagawa in 1860-61 - Means of increasing the supplies of silk and tea-Prospects on the opening of the new ports - Japanese objections to the opening - The Tycoon's letter to the Queen - Ministers' letter to Mr. Alcock - Their recommendations considered-Danger of opening Yedo at present - Remarks on the other ports - Trade probably overrated - Japanese merchants compared with Chinese - Prejudices against traders in Japan -Foreign officials and these prejudices-War with Japan not improbable |
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| CHAPTER XVIII. Narrative resumed - Exciting times - Supposed attacks on M. de Wit and others - Visit from the Governor of Kanagawa - Object of his visit - He inspects my collections - A question regarding my safety - A cautious and consolatory reply - Fences repaired and spiked - Guards stationed round the foreign dwellings - My researches in Japan come to an end - Plants put into Ward's cases-Curiosity of the natives - Kindness of Captain Vyse - Adieu to Japan - Arrival in China |
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| CHAPTER XIX. Leave Shanghae for Peking - Port of Chefoo - Agricultural and natural products - The Pei-ho river - Arrival at Tien-tsin - Salt-mounds - Suburbs - Mean buildings - Active trade - Noisy coolies -Shops -Large warehouses - Hawkers -Gambling propensities of the people - The city - Ruinous ramparts - Filthy streets - Surrounding country - Salt plain -Gardens and nurseries - Winter houses for plants - Fruit-trees cultivated in pots - Fruit ice-houses - Vineyards- San-ko-lin-tsin's Folly - Winter in Tien-tsin |
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| CHAPTER XX. The people of Tien-tsin - Visit to a gentleman's house - Reception - Street beggars - Begging musicians - Civil hospital established by the English - Dr. Lamprey's report - Chinese poorhouse - Fat beggars - Climate and temperature - Dust-storms - Remarkable size of natural productions - Large men and horses - Shantung fowls - Gigantic millet, oily grain, and egg apples - Jute - Vegetables in cultivation - Imperial granaries - Use of millet and jute stems - Foreign trade - New settlement for foreign merchants - The future of Tien-tsin as a centre of trade |
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| CHAPTER XXI. Leave Tien-tsin for Peking - My passport - Mode of travelling-Carts and wretched roads - Hotel at Tsai-tsoun - Towns of Hoose-woo, Nan-ping, and Matao - Hotel at Chan-chow-wan - Poor accommodation - Moderate charges - Appearance of the country - Crops and cultivation - Mountains in the distance-Walls and ramparts of Peking - Foreign embassies - English Legation - Medical missions - Chinese observatory - Views from it - Tartar and Chinese cities |
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| CHAPTER XXII. The streets of Peking -Imperial palaces - Lama mosque - Western side of the city - Portuguese cemetery -Marble tablets - Tombs of Catholic priests - Ricci and Verries - Visits to the Chinese city - Scenes at the gates - The cabs of Peking - Shops and merchandise - Vegetables and fruits - "Paternoster Row" - Jade-stone and bronzes - Ancient porcelain - Temple of Agriculture - South side of Chinese city - Nursery gardens and plants - Country people - South-west side of Chinese city - Waste lands - Royal ladies expected - A September morning in Peking - Northern part of the Tartar city-The An-ting gate - Graves of English officers - The Lama temple - Chief features of Peking |
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| CHAPTER XXIII. A journey to the mountains - Long trains of camels and donkeys - Pagoda at Pale-twang - Large cemetery - Curious fir-tree - Agricultural productions - Country people - Reach the foot of the hills - Temples of Pata-tshoo - Foreign writing on a wall - A noble oak-tree discovered - Ascend to the top of the mountains - Fine views - Visit from mandarins - Early morning view - Return to Peking-Descend the Pei-ho - Sail for Shanghae - Arrange and ship my collections - Arrive in Southampton |
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373 | (16) |
| INDEX |
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389 | |
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