Textiles of Ancient Peru and Their Techniques: Raoul d'Harcourt: 9780486421728: Book: Crafts & Hobbies: eCampus.com

This definitive, magnificently illustrated work offers a comprehensive view of the textiles and techniques of pre-Columbian Peru. An introduction discusses yarns, dyes, looms, and raw materials; the first of the two-part text examines weaves, and the second considers such nonwoven materials as braiding, felt, and embroidery. Hundreds of illustrations depict authentic, well-preserved textiles, tapestries, and personal items. "An incentive, an inspiration, and a guide."--Scientific American. Approx. 465 b/w illus.

This magnificently illustrated work offers a comprehensive view of the textiles and techniques of pre-Columbian Peru. An introduction discusses yarns, dyes, looms, and raw materials; the first of the two-part text examines weaves, and the second considers such nonwoven materials as braiding, felt, and embroidery.

Introduction

(2)

Textile materials

(1)

Yarns

(1)

Dyes

(1)

Looms

(9)

PART I Woven Fabrics

Plain Weave (Plates 1--16)

(14)

Fabrics with continuous warp and weft, equally visible

(2)

Striped and plaid fabrics

(1)

Fabrics made of discontinuous and interlocked yarns with visible warp and weft

(2)

First example (grids)

(1)

Second example (complex Design)

(1)

Rep; warp and weft continuous, one of the two elements concealed

(2)

Weft only visible

(1)

Warp only visible

(1)

Warp only visible; formed with discontinuous and interlocking yarns

(1)

Tapestry; concealed warp, discontinuous and predominant weft

(6)

Reversible fabrics (total or partial)

(1)

Number of warp yarns and of weft yarns to the centimeter

(1)

Sectional wefts not wholly perpendicular to the warp

(1)

Slits

(1)

Means adopted to avoid slits

(2)

Border of decorative motives

(1)

Mixed techniques: warp left partially exposed

(1)

Looped-pile fabrics

(2)

Fabrics of Varied Weave (Plates 17--21)

(9)

Twill

(1)

Fabrics of twill structure 2/1 in which the two elements are visible

(1)

Fabrics of varied structure and of two alternating colors in the weft or in the warp, one element only being visible

(6)

Invisible warp

(1)

Invisible weft

(2)

Invisible warp, discontinuous weft

(1)

Supplementary warp or weft yarns, three or four colors

(1)

Supplementary warp or weft yarns forming floats on the reverse of the fabric

(2)

Two-colored warp fabric with concealed weft, with design of unlimited extent in one of the two colors permitted by superimposing yarns

(2)

Additional warp fabrics of two or three colors, with concealed weft and of varied construction

(2)

Fabrics With Supplementary Decorative Warp or Weft Yarns (Plates 22--28)

(6)

Supplementary decorative weft, brocaded fabrics, two types

(1)

Special features of fabrics with supplementary decorative wefts

(2)

Supplementary warp yarns

(1)

Supplementary warp and weft yarns

(1)

Decorative nonparallel warp or nonparallel weft yarns

(2)

Double Cloth (Plates 29--32)

(6)

Two warps and two wefts equally visible

(1)

One element only visible

(1)

Tubular weaving

(3)

Narrow fabrics, double straps and cylindrical cords

(1)

Application of the double-weave principle (with one element concealed) to the two-color warp or weft technique with varied construction

(1)

Fabrics with double warp and quadruple weft

(2)

Gauzes (Plates 33--39)

(4)

Crossing of the warp yarns in pairs (two-yarn gauze)

(1)

Alternate crossing of three warp yarns (three-yarn gauze)

(1)

Open work

(1)

Irregular gauze

(1)

Mixed techniques

(1)

Embroidery on gauze

(1)

Open-Work Fabrics (Plates 40--47)

(6)

Omission of the warp and weft yarns

(1)

Open work in lozenge form

(1)

Fabrics with square and triangular spaces (resembling knotting)

(3)

Square spaces

(1)

The framing of a group of open spaces

(1)

Traingular open spaces

(1)

Embroidery

(1)

Fabrics with discontinuous warp and knotted weft

(1)

Fabrics with Wrapped Warp (Decorative Method) (Plate 88)

(2)

Fabrics Made of Twisted Warp or Weft: Passementerie (Plates 48--49)

(6)

Bands with twisted warp yarns

(4)

Soles of sandals; twisted warp

(2)

Fabrics with twisted weft; twining

(1)

Passementerie made of eight yarns (three colors)

(1)

Soutache braid with six or eight yarns of one or several colors

(1)

Dyed or Tie-dyed Woven Fabrics (Plates 49--53)

(5)

Painting

(1)

Painting with reserves

(1)

Dyeing with reserves

(4)

Dye applied after weaving (planghi)

(1)

Dye Applied between the warping and the weaving (ikat)

(3)

PART II Nonwoven Fabrics

Plaiting or Braiding (Plates 54--64)

(27)

Plaiting of yarns with the lower ends left free

(6)

Plainting with twisted yarns

(1)

Plaiting with only one element visible

(2)

Plaited passementerie

(1)

Double plaiting

(1)

Plaiting of yarns held firm at their ends

(3)

Simple plaiting

(1)

Double plaiting

(2)

Plaited cords and plaited coverings of cords

(17)

Plaiting with four strands in two colors

(1)

Plaiting in square cross section with eight strands in two colors

(1)

Plaiting in round cross section with sixteen strands in two colors

(4)

Plaiting with twenty-four strands of three or four colors producing a round cross section and regular releif

(3)

Plaiting with thirty-two strands (sixteen plus sixteen) in four colors producing a round cross section

(2)

Plaiting with thirty-eight strands of varying thickness in four colors (grouped twenty-six and twelve or twenty-four and fourteen) producing a square cross section

(1)

Plaiting-weaving with sixteen strands having the role of warp and with four or eight strands having the role of weft

(4)

Plaiting of soles for sandals

(1)

Network (Plates 65--79)

100

(16)

Network with rows of simple loops joined to each other

100

(1)

Network made with simple looping

101

(1)

Network made with complex looping

102

(1)

Network made with Venice stitch

102

(1)

Network made with overlapping loops

102

(1)

Network made with superimposed loopings

103

(1)

Network made with loop stitch (which has the appearance of knitting)

104

(1)

Network in which the mesh is held by a simple knot

105

(1)

Network in which the mesh is held by a knot in the form of two half hitches (square knot)

106

(3)

Network made with loop or cut pile (with the appearance of velour); ``furred'' cords

109

(2)

Network made with peruke stitch

111

(3)

Network made with double twisting of the yarn of each mesh

114

(1)

Network made with small rings arranged in rows of five and joined to one another

114

(2)

Felt (Plate 70)

116

(3)

PART III Ornamentation and Trimming of Fabrics

Embroideries (Plates 80--113)

119

(12)

Simple embroideries resembling brocade or tapestry

120

(1)

Embroideries with flat, smooth stitches

120

(2)

Embroidery with chain stitch

122

(1)

Embroidery with loop stitch

122

(4)

Horizontal direction

122

(1)

Oblique direction

123

(1)

Vertical direction on an edge or border

123

(1)

Network embroidery with loop stitch, covering a fabric

124

(2)

Stem-stitch embroidery

126

(4)

Wrapping of cords with stem stitch

128

(2)

Embroidery on fabric with square open spaces and on network

130

(1)

Trimmings (Plates 114--17)

131

(6)

Applied objects

131

(2)

Fringes

133

(1)

Borders and edge finishes

134

(2)

Tufts and tassels

136

(1)

Summary

137

(4)

Bibliography

141




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