The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques: Essential Step-by-step Techniques for Professional Results

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  • Format: Hardcover
  • Copyright: 12/21/2010
  • Publisher: F & W Media Inc
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Packed with essential, step-by-step professional techniques and tips, this guide takes the mystery out of the sewing and finishing techniques that many dressmakers assume are either extremely difficult or are only for professional fashion designers.

Author Biography

Lynda Maynard has been designing and sewing clothes much of her life. She has a B.A. in Textiles and Clothing from San Jose State University and is an Adjunct Professor in the Fashion Design departments of two community colleges and a private design school in the San Francisco Bay Area. She also has a private clientele, which has challenged her to develop innovative techniques to create a superior product. She is known in the industry as a “fit specialist”, and is the author of the audio book De-Mystifying Fit.

Table of Contents

Couture Bindings and Finishes
This section does away with traditional facings—those pesky pattern pieces that seem to fly off the work space never to be seen again. Also, facings roll out or add bulk, and no woman wants added bulk!
Binding Techniques
Banded V-neck on knits
Banded V-neck on wovens
Ribbon V-neck (may picot)
Single fold binding on knits (neckline/armhole)
Baby French bind on linen with double needle finish
Banded curve finish on linen with serged, double needle finish (neckline/armhole)
Double fold binding on wovens
Double fold charmeuse binding applied to charmeuse garment
Double fold charmeuse binding on chiffon
Baby French bind—chiffon on chiffon with organza
Banded/encased hemline finishes
Wide charmeuse band top-stitched to front
Decorative trim top stitched to front
Ribbon trimmed hem, top stitched to front
Charmeuse binding on chiffon/ free flow
Designer Underpinnings
This section explores some of the more "difficult" fabrics that seem challenging and intimidating to novices. Various handling methods can make these fabrics more "user friendly." With the proper underpinnings, the personality of the fashion fabric can be altered to allow you to take charge.
Charmeuse with challis
Charmeuse with crepe de chine
Charmeuse with batiste
Velvet with washed organza
Velvet with flannel
Velvet with batiste
Dupioni with flannel
Wool with voile
Wool with challis
Finishing Touches
This section offers a wide variety of innovative techniques and thought-provoking applications to finish your garment in style. Incorporate these suggestions to create your own unique style and personal signature.
Grosgrain ribbon on inside of collar band
Satin pocket bags
Waistline "flip out" pouch
Button-on garment sections
Hong Kong finish to outside
Organza "bubble" at hemline
Petersham "peek" on a wrap skirt/ waistband
Charmeuse ribbon work free flow/ optical illusion
Channel stitching with flannel on charmeuse (collar/cuffs/hemband)
Corded (collar/cuffs/hemband)
Chiffon with organza flange down center front
Charmeuse with welt and picot edge (collar/cuff/center front/hemline)
Curved waistband (determining need)
Double needle hem on knits and wovens with Lycra
Table of Contents provided by Publisher. All Rights Reserved.

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