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Jayne Smith has worked in the fashion industry for over 30 years. Her passion for fashion assembly led her to deliver this discipline at the Scottish College of Textiles and the School of Textiles and Design at Heriot Watt University. Jayne held the position of Director of Learning & Teaching at Herriot Watt University for many years and was responsible for developing and implementing the overall strategy.
Jayne is also a talented Product Developer, specialising in assembly and creative pattern cutting for fashion. Her expertise has led her to deliver the discipline in many universities and colleges across the globe.
Table of Contents
1 Introduction 1
Getting Started 2 / Getting to Know the Parts of the Sewing Machine 3
2 Stitch & Seam Types 5
Stitch Types 8 / Seam Types 17
3 Attachments for the Sewing Machine 25
Edge Guide 25 / Presser Foot 27 / Hemming Foot 28 / Zipper Foot 29 / Folders 30
4 Needles & Thread 31
Parts of the Needle 31 / Thread 34 / Thread Consumption 36 / Thread Sizing 37
5 Interlining 41
Fusing Equipment 42 / Applying Interlining 43
6 Sewing Darts 47
7 Front Edge Fastenings 51
8 Inserting Zip Fastenings 59
Invisible Zip Insertion 60 / Concealed or Standard Zip with Guard Insertion 64
9 Attaching Waistbands 71
Standard ‘Run On and Close Down’ Waistband Application 71 / Elasticated Waistband 76
10 Assembling & Attaching Pockets 79
Patch Pocket 80 / Shaped Pockets 84 / Jetted Pocket 88 / Welt Pocket 94
11 Sleeve Opening Construction 101
12 Assembling & Attaching Cuff s 109
Two Piece Cuff 110 / One Piece Cuff 113 / Attaching the Cuff to the Sleeve 115
13 Assembling & Attaching Collars 117
Collar Parts 117 / Stand Collar (Frequently Known as the Mandarin Collar) 118 / Attaching the Stand Collar 121 / Flat Collar (Also Known as the Peter Pan Collar) 123 / Attaching the Flat Collar 125 / One-Piece Shirt Collar 127 / Attaching the Shirt Collar 130
14 Sewing Problems 133
Stitch Formation Problems 133 / Fabric Distortion – Pucker 135 / Damage to the Fabric 137
Garment Assembly Terms Glossary 141