9780898867695

Ice & Mixed Climbing : Modern Technique

by
  • ISBN13:

    9780898867695

  • ISBN10:

    089886769X

  • Edition: 1st
  • Format: Paperback
  • Copyright: 2003-11-01
  • Publisher: Mountaineers Books

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  • The Used and Rental copies of this book are not guaranteed to include any supplemental materials. Typically, only the book itself is included. This is true even if the title states it includes any access cards, study guides, lab manuals, CDs, etc.

Summary

"Mixed climbing is my favourite discipline. It's the most fun because it has the fewest rules-sort of like professional wrestling compared to boxing." So says Will Gadd, as profiled in Fifty Favourite Climbs. Here the champion ice climber presents the same techniques and veteran wisdom he imparts to those who attend his annual clinics. These include step-by-step instructions for the swing (ice axe), the kick (footwork), and putting it all together (tracking); how to "read" ice to select your line and follow it safely; and drytool techniques for mixed climbing. Training exercises and inspirational stories complete this seminal guide.

Author Biography

Will Gadd has established hundreds of new ice and hard mixed routes from Iceland to Chile; he has also won numerous international competitions and the ice climbing world cup. A resident of Canmore, Alberta, he has written for Climbing, Rock & Ice, Outside, and many other publications

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments 8(6)
CHAPTER 1 Gear
Ice Tools
14(9)
Boots
23(12)
Shopping for Ice Gear
35(1)
Pick Maintenance
36(8)
CHAPTER 2 Dress and Eat for Success
Technical Clothing
44(2)
Surviving Long Belays
46(2)
Nutrition for Cold Climbing
48(3)
Climb Ice! by Kim Csizmazia
51(7)
CHAPTER 3 Basic Ice Climbing
Ice Formation: Understanding the Medium
58(6)
Basic Crampon Skills
64(1)
Basic Ice Movement
65(19)
Ice Grades
84(2)
Big Routes: Modern Tactics for Speed and Warmth
86(6)
CHAPTER 4 Anchors, Belaying, and Leading
Belaying
92(6)
Leading Ice
98(10)
Leading the Pitch
108(10)
Barry Blanchard Whips Ice Climbing, by Barry Blanchard
114(4)
CHAPTER 5 Descending
Descending the Pitch
118(4)
Rap Anchors
122(6)
Cluster Luck, by Scott Semple
128(6)
CHAPTER 6 Advanced Ice Techniques
Techniques for Steep Ice Climbing
134(4)
Thin Ice
138(3)
Climbing Early Season Ice
141(1)
Free-hanging and Freestanding Ice
142(3)
Suffer Machine Fall, by Raphael Slawinski
145(5)
CHAPTER 7 Leading and Protecting Mixed Routes
Protection
150(5)
Creative Sling Use
155(1)
Rope Management
155(6)
CHAPTER 8 Mixed Climbing
Ethics
161(1)
Mixed Technique
162(4)
Drytooling
166(6)
Footwork
172(2)
Movement Tricks
174(3)
Getting on Icicles
177(6)
Techniques for Popular Mixed Routes
183(4)
CHAPTER 9 Moving in the Mountains in Winter
Vehicles
187(1)
Snowshoes and Skis
188(4)
CHAPTER 10 Systems for Survival
Avalanches
192(5)
Bivying
197(2)
Accidents and Rescues
199(4)
A Lesson, by Will Gadd
203(3)
CHAPTER 11 Training for Winter Climbing
Periodization
206(1)
Specific Adaptation to Imposed Demand
207(1)
Effective Training
208(1)
Training Schedules
209(2)
Specific Exercises
211
The Golden Rule by Rob Owens
229

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