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Milady's Standard Textbook of Cosmetology,9781562532062
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Milady's Standard Textbook of Cosmetology

by
Edition:
1st
ISBN13:

9781562532062

ISBN10:
1562532065
Format:
Paperback
Pub. Date:
3/17/1994
Publisher(s):
Cengage Learning
List Price: $111.44
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Summary

When the subject is cosmetology education, one name echoes around the globe, Milady's Standard Textbook of Cosmetology-used in 48 countries and developed in 5 languages, Milady's Standard is recognized as the undisputed industry leader and primary source of the most current and comprehensive information available for cosmetology students. This revised edition is designed to provide students with the knowledge and skills required to pass state licensing exams and to provide professional cosmetology services. Drawing on the experience of many industry leaders, educators, and artists, Milady's Standard gives students a thorough understanding of both the theory and practice of all pertinent cosmetology subjects.

Table of Contents

Preface xii
To the Student xii
To the Instructor xii
For the Student xiii
For the Instructor xv
For Reference xvi
Acknowledgments xviii
Introduction The World of Cosmetology 2(1)
Makeup Artist
2(1)
Skin Care Specialist/Esthetician
3(1)
Cosmetic Chemist
3(1)
Publishing
4(1)
Haircolorist
5(1)
Salon Owner
5(1)
Retail Specialist
6(1)
Competition Champion
6(1)
Educational Specialist
7(3)
Your Professional Image
Introduction
10(1)
Your Personal and Professional Health
10(3)
Rest
10(1)
Exercise
10(1)
Relaxation
10(1)
Nutrition
10(1)
Personal Hygiene
11(1)
Personal Grooming
11(1)
Care of the Feet
12(1)
Healthy Lifestyle
13(1)
Physical Presentation
13(4)
Good Posture
13(1)
Physical Presentation on the Job
14(2)
Correct Sitting Technique
16(1)
Personality
17(1)
Desirable Qualities for Effective Client Relations
17(1)
Effective Communication
18(1)
Human Relations and Your Professional Attitude
18(2)
To Be Successful
20(1)
Professional Ethics
21(3)
Bacteriology
Introduction
24(1)
Bacteriology
24(8)
Types of Bacteria
25(1)
Pronunciations of Terms Relating to Pathogenic Bacteria
26(1)
Classifications of Pathogenic Bacteria
26(1)
Bacterial Growth and Reproduction
27(1)
Bacterial Infections
28(1)
Other Infectious Agents
29(1)
Immunity
29(1)
Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome (AIDS)
30(2)
Decontamination and Infection Control
Introduction
32(1)
Prevention and Control
32(6)
Contamination
32(1)
Decontamination
32(1)
Sterilization
33(1)
Sanitation
33(2)
Antiseptics
35(1)
Disinfection
35(1)
Read Before Using
35(1)
Important Information
35(1)
OSHA
36(1)
Hospital Level Disinfectants
36(1)
Proper Use of Disinfectants
37(1)
Types of Disinfectants
38(3)
Quats
38(1)
Phenols
39(1)
Alcohol, Bleach, and Commercial Cleaners
39(1)
Ultrasonic Cleaners
40(1)
Disinfectant Safety
40(1)
Other Surfaces
41(1)
Proper Storage of Implements
41(1)
Electric or Bead ``Sterilizers''
41(1)
Universal Sanitation
41(3)
Your Professional Responsibility
42(2)
Properties of the Scalp and Hair
Introduction
44(1)
Hair
44(8)
Composition of the Hair
45(1)
Divisions of the Hair
45(2)
Hair Shapes
47(1)
Layers of the Hair
48(1)
Hair Distribution
48(1)
Hair Growth
49(10)
Life and Density of the Hair
59
Natural Replacement of the Hair
50(1)
Color of the Hair
50(2)
Hair Analysis
52(2)
Condition of the Hair
52(1)
Qualities of the Hair
52(2)
Disorders of the Hair
54(1)
Canities
54(1)
Ringed Hair
54(1)
Hypertichosis
54(1)
Trichoptilosis
54(1)
Trichorrhexis Nodosa
54(1)
Monilethrix
54(1)
Fragilitas Crinium
55(1)
Scalp Care
55(3)
Scalp Manipulations
55(3)
Disorders of the Scalp
58(10)
Dandruff
58(2)
Alopecia
60(2)
Vegetable Parasitic Infections
62(1)
Animal Parasitic Infections
62(1)
Staphylococci Infections
63(1)
General Hair and Scalp Treatments
64(4)
Draping
Introduction
68(6)
Draping for Wet Hair Services
68(1)
Draping for Chemical Services
69(1)
Draping for Dry Hair Services
70(4)
Shampooing, Rinsing, and Conditioning
Introduction
74(10)
Water
74(1)
Selecting the Correct Shampoo
75(1)
Required Materials and Implements
75(1)
Brushing
75(1)
Shampoo Procedure
76(2)
Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair
78(1)
Types of Shampoos
79(2)
Hair Rinses
81(3)
Haircutting
Introduction
84(18)
Implements Used in Haircutting
84(2)
Sectioning for Haircutting
86(1)
Holding Hair Shaping Implements
87(1)
Hair Thinning
88(2)
Haircutting with Scissors
90(3)
Shingling
93(1)
Use of Clippers on the Neckline
94(1)
Using the Razor
94(4)
Learn to Handle Children
98(1)
Cutting Overly Curly Hair
98(4)
Finger Waving
Introduction
102(1)
Preparation
102(1)
Finger Waving Lotion
102(1)
Application of Lotion
102(1)
Horizontal Finger Waving
103(3)
Shaping the Top Area
103(2)
Left Side of the Head
105(1)
Alternate Method of Finger Waving
106(1)
Vertical Finger Waving
107(1)
Shadow Wave
108(1)
Reminders and Hints on Finger Waving
108(4)
Wet Hairstyling
Introduction
112(1)
Hairstyling Basics
112(35)
Removing Tangles from Hair
112(1)
Making a Part
113(1)
Pin Curls
114(4)
Pin Curl Foundations or Bases
118(2)
Pin Curl Techniques
120(5)
Anchoring Pin Curls
125(1)
Effects of Pin Curls
126(4)
Cascade or Stand Up Curls
130(1)
Semi-Stand Up Curls
131(1)
Roller Curls
132(3)
Barrel Curls
135(7)
Comb-Out Techniques
142(2)
Braiding
144(3)
Artistry in Hairstyling
147(17)
Facial Types
147(9)
Styling for People Who Wear Glasses
156(3)
Hair Partings
159(5)
Thermal Hairstyling
Introduction to Thermal Waving and Curling
164(16)
Thermal Irons
164(3)
Thermal Waving with Conventional Thermal (Marcel) Irons
167(2)
Thermal Curling with Electric Thermal Irons
169(2)
Thermal Irons Curling Methods
171(5)
Volume Thermal Iron Curls
176(1)
Finished Thermal Curl Settings
177(1)
Styling the Hair After a Thermal Curl or Wave
178(1)
Safety Measures
178(2)
Blow-Dry Styling
180(3)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials
180(1)
The Blow-Dryer
180(1)
Combs and Brushes
180(2)
Cosmetics Used in Blow-Dry Styling
182(1)
Blow Curling with Round Brush
182(1)
Reminders and Hints on Blow-Dry Styling
183(2)
Blow-Drying the Hair
183(1)
Brushes and Combs
184(1)
Blow-Dryer
184(1)
Blow-Drying Techniques
184(1)
Air Waving
185(3)
Shaping Hair with Comb
185(1)
Safety Precautions
186(2)
Permanent Waving
Introduction
188(1)
History of Permanent Waving
188(2)
The Machine Age of Permanent Waving
188(1)
The First Machineless Perm
189(1)
Cold Waves
189(1)
Neutral and Acid-Balanced Perms
189(1)
Modern Perm Chemistry
190(2)
Alkaline Perms
190(1)
Acid-Balanced Perms
191(1)
The Chemistry of Neutralizers
192(1)
Hair Structure and Perming
192(21)
Physical Structure of Hair
192(1)
Chemical Composition of Hair
193(1)
Choosing the Right Perming Technique
194(2)
Pre-Perm Analysis
196(3)
Perm Selection
199(1)
Pre-Perm Shampooing
200(1)
Pre-Perm Cutting or Shaping
200(1)
Perm Rods
201(1)
Sectioning and Parting
202(1)
Wrapping Patterns
203(3)
Wrapping the Hair
206(4)
Preliminary Test Curls
210(3)
Perming Techniques
213(5)
Applying Waving Lotion
214(2)
Neutralizing
216(1)
Ten Pointers for a Perfect Perm
217(1)
Cleanup
217(1)
Special Perming Techniques
218(8)
Directional Wrapping
218(2)
Body Waves
220(1)
Partial Perming
221(1)
Perms for Men
221(1)
Heated Clamp Method
221(1)
Special Situations
222(4)
Haircoloring
Introduction
226(4)
Reasons Clients Color Their Hair
227(1)
Typical Clients
227(1)
The Colorist's Role in Client Communication
228(2)
Haircolor Consultation
230(23)
Setting the Stage: The Proper Environment
230(2)
Strand Test to Confirm Color Selection
232(1)
Predisposition Test
233(2)
Client Record Card
235(1)
Release Statement
235(1)
Analyzing the Client's Hair Physiology
235(13)
Using Color Keys to Find the Most Flattering Color for the Client
248(5)
Color Theory
253(6)
The Law of Color
253(5)
Creating Natural-Looking Haircolor Using Artificial Pigments
258(1)
Classifications of Haircolor
259(10)
Temporary Haircoloring
259(3)
Traditional Semi-Permanent Haircoloring
262(6)
Deposit-Only Haircolor
268(1)
Permanent Haircolor
269(31)
Permanent Haircolor Types
269(4)
Hydrogen Peroxide Developers
273(3)
Hair Lightening
276(12)
Special Effects Highlighting
288(2)
Composition of Permanent Haircolors
290(10)
Special Problems in Haircolor/Corrective Coloring
300(20)
Damaged Hair
300(1)
Fillers
301(1)
Reds Fading
302(1)
Correcting Brassiness and Other Unwanted Tones in the Hair
303(1)
Tint Removal
304(2)
Tint Back to Natural Hair Color
306(1)
Gray Hair Challenges and Solutions
307(1)
Formulating for Gray Hair
308(2)
Rules for Effective Color Correction
310(1)
Haircoloring Safety Precautions
310(1)
Haircoloring Glossary
311(9)
Chemical Hair Relaxing and Soft Curl Permanent
Introduction
320(1)
Chemical Hair Relaxing Products
320(1)
Chemical Hair Relaxers
320(1)
Neutralizer
320(1)
Base and ``No Base'' Formulas
321(1)
Steps in Chemical Hair Relaxing
321(1)
Processing
321(1)
Neutralizing
321(1)
Conditioning
321(1)
Recommended Strength of Relaxer
322(1)
Analysis of Client's Hair
322(2)
Client's Hair History
322(1)
Scalp Examination
323(1)
Strand Tests
323(1)
Chemical Hair Relaxing Process (With Sodium Hydroxide)
324(6)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials
324(1)
Preparation
324(1)
Procedure
325(1)
Applying the Conditioner-Filler
325(1)
Applying the Relaxer
326(1)
Comb Method
326(1)
Brush or Finger Method
327(1)
Periodic Strand Testing
327(1)
Rinsing Out the Relaxer
327(1)
Shampooing/Neutralizing
327(1)
Applying the Conditioner
328(1)
Hot Thermal Irons
329(1)
Sodium Hydroxide Retouch
330(1)
Chemical Hair Relaxing Process (With Ammonium Thioglycolate)
330(1)
Thio Retouch
331(1)
Other Relaxers
331(1)
Chemical Blow Out
331(1)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials
331(1)
Procedure
331(1)
Review of Safety Precautions
332(1)
Soft Curl Permanent
333(4)
Implements and Materials
334(1)
Procedure
334(3)
Aftercare
337(1)
Review of Safety Precautions
337(3)
Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing)
Introduction
340(1)
Analysis of Hair and Scalp
340(8)
Hair Texture
341(1)
Scalp Condition
342(1)
Record Card
342(1)
Conditioning Treatments
342(1)
Pressing Combs
342(2)
Pressing Oil or Cream
344(1)
Hair Sectioning
344(1)
Soft Pressing Procedure for Normal Curly Hair
344(2)
Hard Press
346(1)
Touch-Ups
347(1)
Safety Precautions
347(1)
Release Statement
347(1)
Reminders and Hints on Soft Pressing
348(1)
Special Problems
348(4)
Pressing Fine Hair
348(1)
Pressing Short, Fine Hair
348(1)
Pressing Coarse Hair
348(1)
Pressing Tinted, Lightened, or Gray Hair
349(3)
The Artistry of Artificial Hair
Introduction
352(1)
Why People Wear Wigs
352(1)
Types of Wigs
352(3)
Human Hair Wigs
353(1)
Synthetic Wigs and Hairpieces
354(1)
Hair Extensions
354(1)
Men's Wigs
354(1)
Taking Wig Measurements
355(1)
Procedure
355(1)
Ordering the Wig
356(1)
Blocking the Wig
357(1)
Fitting the Wig
357(2)
Adjusting the Wig to a Larger Size
357(1)
Adjusting the Wig to a Smaller Size
358(1)
The Elastic Band
358(1)
Cleaning Wigs
359(2)
Human Hair Wigs
359(1)
Hand-Tied Wigs
360(1)
Synthetic Wigs
360(1)
Conditioning the Wig
361(1)
Shaping Wigs
361(2)
Human Hair Wigs
361(1)
Synthetic Hair Wigs
362(1)
Setting and Styling Wigs
363(1)
Putting on and Taking Off a Wig
364(1)
Combing Client's Hair into a Wig
364(1)
Removing a Wig
364(1)
Wig Coloring
364(2)
Color Rinses
364(1)
Semi-Permanent Tints
365(1)
Permanent Tints
365(1)
Hairpieces
366(1)
Safety Precautions
367(3)
Manicuring and Pedicuring
Introduction
370(1)
Shape of Nails
370(1)
Equipment, Implements, Cosmetics, and Materials
371(4)
Equipment
372(1)
Implements
372(1)
Cosmetics
373(2)
Materials
375(1)
Preparation of the Manicuring Table
375(1)
Procedure
375(1)
Plain Manicure
376(5)
Preparation
376(1)
Procedure
377(2)
Nail Problems
379(1)
Completion
379(1)
Final Cleanup
380(1)
Safety Rules in Manicuring
381(1)
Individual Nail Styling
382(1)
Hand Massage
383(1)
Procedure
383(1)
Hand and Arm Massage
384(1)
Procedure
384(1)
Other Types of Manicures
385(2)
Electric Manicure
385(1)
Oil Manicure
386(1)
Men's Manicure
386(1)
Booth Manicure
386(1)
Advanced Nail Techniques
387(7)
Nail Wrapping
387(2)
Sculptured Nails
389(3)
Press-on Artificial Nails
392(2)
Other Advanced Techniques
394(2)
Dipped Nails
394(1)
Nail Tipping
394(2)
Pedicure
396(2)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials
396(1)
Preparation
396(1)
Procedure
397(1)
Foot Massage
398(4)
Procedure
398(1)
Completion
399(1)
Leg Massage
399(3)
The Nail and Its Disorders
Introduction
402(1)
The Nail
402(1)
Nail Structure
402(1)
Lunula
403(1)
Structures Surrounding the Nail
403(1)
Nail Growth
403(4)
Nail Malformation
404(1)
Nail Disorders
404(1)
Nail Irregularities
404(3)
Fungus and Mold
407(1)
Nail Fungus
407(1)
Nail Mold
407(1)
Nail Diseases
407(5)
Theory of Massage
Introduction
412(1)
Basic Manipulations Used in Massage
412(4)
How Manipulative Movements Are Accomplished
412(1)
Effleurage
413(1)
Petrissage
413(1)
Friction
414(1)
Percussion or Tapotement Movement
415(1)
Vibration
415(1)
Joint Movements
415(1)
Physiological Effects of Massage
416(4)
Facials
Introduction
420(1)
Facial Treatments
420(1)
Facial Massage
420(6)
Preparation for Facial Massage
420(1)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials
421(1)
Procedure
421(5)
Facial Manipulations
426(4)
Chest, Back, and Neck Manipulations (Optional)
429(1)
Special Problems
430(4)
Facial for Dry Skin
430(1)
Facial for Oily Skin and Blackheads (Comedones)
431(1)
Whiteheads (Milia)
432(1)
Facial for Acne
432(1)
Diet for Acne
433(1)
Packs and Masks
434(3)
Custom-Designed Masks
434(2)
Hot Oil Mask Facial
436(1)
Reasons a Client Might Find Fault with a Facial Treatment
437(3)
Facial Makeup
Introduction
440(1)
Preparation for Makeup Application
440(1)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials
440(1)
Cosmetics for Facial Makeup
441(8)
Foundation for Makeup
441(1)
Face Powders
442(1)
Cheek and Lip Colors
443(1)
Eye Makeup
444(2)
Procedure for Applying a Professional Makeup
446(3)
Makeup Techniques for the Black Woman
449(2)
Procedure for Makeup Application
449(2)
Facial Features
451(12)
Analyzing the Client's Facial Features and Face Shape
451(1)
Corrective Makeup Techniques
451(4)
Tips for Applying Cheek Color
455(1)
Basic Rules for Applying Corrective Base Makeup
455(4)
The Use of the Eyebrow Pencil
459(1)
Eyebrow Arching
460(2)
Corrective Makeup for Lips
462(1)
Lash and Brow Tint
463(1)
Artificial Eyelashes
464(7)
Applying Strip Eyelashes
464(2)
Removing Artificial Strip Eyelashes
466(1)
Applying Semi-Permanent Individual Eyelashes (Eye Tabbing)
466(5)
Safety Precautions
471(3)
The Skin and Its Disorders
Introduction
474(1)
Histology of the Skin
475(5)
How the Skin is Nourished
476(1)
Nerves of the Skin
476(1)
Skin Elasticity
477(1)
Skin Color
477(1)
Glands of the Skin
478(1)
Functions of the Skin
479(1)
Disorders of the Skin
480(12)
Definitions Pertaining to Skin Disorders
480(1)
Lesions of the Skin
480(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Primary Lesions
481(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Secondary Lesions
482(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Disease
482(1)
Disorders of the Sebaceous (Oil) Glands
483(3)
Definitions Pertaining to Disorders of Sudoriferous (Sweat) Glands
486(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Inflammations
486(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Pigmentations of the Skin
487(2)
Definitions Pertaining to Hypertrophies (New Growths) of the Skin
489(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Plastic Surgery
489(3)
Removing Unwanted Hair
Introduction
492(1)
Permanent Methods of Hair Removal
492(4)
General Information
493(1)
Shortwave or Thermolysis Method
493(3)
Temporary Methods of Hair Removal
496(6)
Shaving
496(1)
Tweezing
497(1)
Electronic Tweezer Method of Hair Removal
497(1)
Depilatories
497(1)
Hot Wax
497(2)
Cold Wax
499(1)
Chemical Depilatories
499(3)
Cells, Anatomy, and Physiology
Introduction
502(1)
Cells
502(2)
Cell Growth
503(1)
Cell Metabolism
503(1)
Tissues
504(1)
Organs
504(1)
Systems
504(1)
Introduction to Anatomy and Physiology
505(1)
The Skeletal System
506(3)
Bones of the Skull
506(2)
Bones of the Neck
508(1)
Bones of the Chest (Thorax)
508(1)
Bones of the Shoulder, Arm, and Hand
508(1)
The Muscular System
509(7)
Muscles
510(6)
The Nervous System
516(4)
Divisions of the Nervous System
516(1)
The Brain and Spinal Cord
517(1)
Nerve Cells and Nerves
517(3)
The Circulatory System
520(6)
The Heart
521(1)
Blood Vessels
522(1)
The Blood
522(1)
The Lymph-Vascular System
523(1)
Arteries of the Head, Face, and Neck
524(1)
Veins of the Head, Face, and Neck
525(1)
Blood Supply for the Arm and Hand
525(1)
The Endocrine System
526(1)
The Excretory System
527(1)
The Respiratory System
527(1)
The Digestive System
528(2)
Electricity and Light Therapy
Introduction
530(1)
Using Electricity
530(3)
Electrical Measurements
530(1)
Safety Devices
531(2)
Electrotherapy
533(6)
Modalities
534(5)
Other Electrical Equipment
539(1)
Light Therapy
540(6)
How Light Rays Are Reproduced
540(1)
Protecting the Eyes
540(1)
Infrared Rays
541(1)
Ultraviolet Rays
542(2)
Visible Light Rays or Visible Spectrum
544(2)
Chemistry
Introduction
546(1)
The Science of Chemistry
546(1)
Matter
546(6)
Forms of Matter
547(2)
Chemical and Physical Changes in Matter
549(1)
Properties of Matter
549(1)
Properties of Common Elements, Compounds, and Mixtures
550(2)
Chemistry of Water
552(1)
Water Purification
552(1)
Chemistry of Shampoos
553(5)
Classifications of Shampoos
553(3)
Conditioners
556(2)
Permanent Waving
558(2)
Composition of Hair
558(1)
The Permanent Waving Process
559(1)
Chemical Hair Relaxing (Straightening)
560(1)
Soft Permanent Waves
561(1)
The Chemistry of Haircoloring
561(6)
Temporary Haircolors
561(1)
Semi-Permanent Hair Tints
562(1)
Permanent Hair Tints
563(2)
Hair Lightening
565(2)
Toners
567(1)
Color Fillers
567(1)
Cosmetic Chemistry
567(15)
Physical and Chemical Classifications of Cosmetics
567(3)
Informational References
570(2)
Cosmetic Body Cleansers
572(1)
Cosmetics for Skin and Face
573(1)
Cosmetics for Makeup
574(8)
The Salon Business
Introduction
582(1)
What You Should Know about Opening a Salon
582(8)
Location
582(1)
Written Agreements
583(1)
Business Plan
583(1)
Regulations, Business Laws, and Insurance
584(1)
Types of Salon Ownership
585(1)
Protection Against Fire, Theft, and Lawsuits
586(1)
Business Operation
586(1)
The Importance of Record Keeping
587(2)
Planning the Salon's Layout
589(1)
Operating a Salon
590(6)
Personnel
590(1)
Salon Policies and Practices
590(3)
Use of the Telephone in the Salon
593(3)
Selling in the Salon
596(2)
Selling Principles
597(1)
Types of Clients
597(1)
The Psychology of Selling
598(1)
Selling Products
598(1)
Advertising
598(3)
Answers To Review Questions 601(10)
Glossary/Index 611


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