9780139380938

Pattern Making by the Flat Pattern Method

by ;
  • ISBN13:

    9780139380938

  • ISBN10:

    0139380930

  • Edition: 8th
  • Format: Paperback
  • Copyright: 8/20/1998
  • Publisher: Pearson

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Supplemental Materials

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  • The New copy of this book will include any supplemental materials advertised. Please check the title of the book to determine if it should include any access cards, study guides, lab manuals, CDs, etc.
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Summary

This concise book delivers superb coverage of how to design and make garments ranging from evening dresses to sleepwear.KEY TOPICS: This book contains special sections on pattern-making for men's, boys', and girls' clothing, plus many useful tools such as a checklist for completing patterns and design inspiration sheets. Includes important discussions about the use of Computer Assisted Design (CAD), and features a new appendix that includes a list of computer software currently being used in today's fashion market. For every future professional in the apparel or fashion industry.

Table of Contents

1 The Apparel Manufacturing Process
1(9)
Introduction
2(1)
Designing the Line
2(1)
Precosting the Line
3(1)
First Patterns
4(2)
Sample Garments
6(1)
Production Patterns
6(1)
Pattern Grading
6(1)
Marker Making
7(1)
Cutting
7(1)
Garment Assembly
7(1)
Pressing and Finishing
8(1)
Final Costing
8(1)
New Technology on Display
8(2)
2 Patternmaking Tips, Tools, and Rules
10(16)
The Flat-Pattern Method
11(1)
Applying the Study of Flat Pattern
11(1)
Creating Original Clothing
11(4)
Supplies and Equipment
15(3)
Design Analysis
18(1)
Use of the Muslin Shell in Designing
19(1)
Understanding Darts
20(1)
Dart Size, Length, and Shape
21(2)
Pattern Making with Darts
23(1)
Folding Darts
23(1)
Labeling the Pattern
24(1)
Adding Seam Allowances
25(1)
Accuracy
25(1)
Check List for Completing Patterns
25(1)
3 Bodices
26(45)
Moving Darts: Pivot Method
27(4)
Combining Darts: Pivot Method
31(3)
Dividing Darts: Pivot Method
34(2)
Darts That Fan Out
36(1)
Moving Darts: Slash Method
36(3)
Combining Darts: Slash Method
39(1)
Dividing Darts: Slash Method
40(2)
Decorative Darts: Slash Method
42(1)
Other Methods of Moving Darts
43(2)
Released Darts
45(2)
Gathers
47(4)
Seamlines Made from Darts
51(7)
Yokes
58(6)
Other Bodice Patterns
64(2)
Dart End Shapes
66(1)
Problems
67(4)
4 Necklines and Facings
71(17)
Lowered Neckline
72(2)
Boat Neckline
74(1)
Built-up Neckline
74(1)
Cowl Neckline
75(3)
Sundress
78(1)
Lingerie
79(1)
About Facings
79(1)
Fitted Neckline Facing
80(1)
Neckline-Center Front Facing
81(1)
Bias Facing
82(1)
Button and Buttonhole Closure
82(2)
Armhole Facing for Sleeveless Garments
84(1)
Shaped Facing: Armhole
85(1)
Neckline-Armhole Facing: Lowered Neckline
85(2)
Problems
87(1)
5 Collars
88(22)
Collar Types
89(1)
Collar Styles
89(2)
Flat Collars
91(2)
Full-Roll Collars
93(3)
Partial-Roll Collars
96(1)
Bias Collars
97(4)
Shawl or Cut-in-One Collars
101(4)
Collar Variations
105(1)
Full-Roll or Partial-Roll Collar on a Lowered Front Neckline
105(1)
Flat Collar on Double-Breasted Front
105(3)
Problems
108(2)
6 Skirts
110(35)
The Basic Skirt
111(1)
Skirt Darts
112(2)
Flare at the Side Seam
114(1)
Dart Designs: Flare
114(1)
Converting Darts to Flare
115(1)
Open-End Darts
116(1)
Trouser Pleats
116(1)
Moving and Combining Skirt Back Darts: Slash Method
116(1)
Moving and Combining Darts: Pivot Method
117(1)
Moving and Dividing Front Darts: Slash Method
118(1)
Converting Darts to Gathers
119(1)
Yokes
120(1)
Pockets
120(1)
Gored Skirts
121(12)
Circular Skirts
133(1)
Pleated Skirts
134(6)
Wrap Skirts
140(2)
Waistbands
142(2)
Problems
144(1)
7 Pants
145(10)
Making a Basic Pants Pattern
146(1)
Measurements for Pants Patterns
146(1)
Straight-Leg Pants Style
147(4)
Designing with the Pants Pattern
151(1)
Harem Pants
152(1)
Culottes or Divided Skirt
152(2)
Problems
154(1)
8 Dresses
155(22)
The Basic Sheath
156(2)
Darts in the Basic Sheath
158(1)
Sheath Dress Designs
159(7)
The Princess Dress
166(2)
The Kimono Sheath
168(1)
Blouses from a Shortened Sheath Dress Pattern
169(1)
Dress with Elastic in the Waistline Seam
170(2)
Problems
172(5)
9 Sleeves
177(25)
The Basic Sleeve
178(2)
Cuffs
180(2)
Moving Darts
182(1)
Sleeve Facing
183(1)
Designing with Sleeves
184(5)
The Kimono Sleeve
189(3)
The Batwing Sleeve
192(1)
The Raglan Sleeve
192(6)
Cap Sleeve
198(1)
Sleeve Variations
199(1)
Problems
200(2)
10 Sleepwear
202(7)
Nightgown with Straight Yoke
203(1)
Nightgown with V-Shaped Yoke
204(1)
Nightgown with Curved Yoke
204(1)
Gathered Petal Sleeve Detail
205(1)
Asymmetric Yoke Detail
206(1)
Scalloped Yoke Detail
206(2)
Problems
208(1)
11 Jackets
209(14)
Armhole and Sleeve for a Suit or Coat
210(2)
Jacket with Notched Collar
212(1)
Jacket with Side Tucks
212(1)
Jacket with Built-up Neckline
213(1)
Jacket with Revere Collar
214(1)
Jacket with Notched Collar
215(1)
Jacket with Double-Breasted Double Revere Collar
215(1)
Jacket with S-Shaped Curve
216(1)
Long Jacket with Revere Collar
217(1)
Notched Collar and Lapel
217(2)
One-Piece Jacket Sleeve with Tucks
219(1)
Two-Piece Jacket Sleeve
219(3)
Problems
222(1)
12 Coats and Capes
223(7)
Cape with Yoke
224(1)
Single-Breasted Dress Coat
225(1)
Coat-Style Sleeve
226(1)
Double-Breasted Raincoat with Notched Collar
227(2)
Problems
229(1)
13 Shirt and Pants Patterns for Men and Boys
230(11)
Basic Dress Shirt
231(1)
Shirt Sleeve
232(1)
Two-Part Collar
232(1)
Sport Shirt with Short Sleeves
233(1)
Western Shirt
234(1)
Tuxedo Shirt
234(1)
Vest with Collar
235(1)
Knit Shirt with Raglan Sleeves
236(1)
Basic Pants with Diagonal Side Pocket
237(1)
Pants with Horizontal Front Pocket
237(1)
Pants with Front Pleat
238(1)
Bathrobe with Kimono Sleeves
238(2)
Problems
240(1)
14 Clothing for Girls
241(17)
Styles
242(1)
Self-Help Features
242(1)
Fibers and Fabrics
242(1)
Trims
242(1)
Growth Features
242(1)
Saving Money
242(1)
Patternwork
243(1)
Peter Pan Collar
243(1)
Bertha Collar
243(1)
Sailor Collar
244(1)
Short Puffed Sleeve
244(1)
Baby Doll Sleeve
245(1)
Flared or Bell Sleeve
245(1)
Dress with Yoke and Pleats
245(1)
Dress Pattern with Four Different Yokes
246(1)
Vest
247(1)
Dress with Princess-Line Bodice and Gathered Skirt
247(1)
Dress with Tucks
248(1)
Slipdress and Jacket
249(1)
Jumper with Bib
250(1)
Nightgown
251(1)
Basic Straight Skirt Drafted from Four Measurements
251(2)
Full-Circle Skirt
253(1)
Gathered Skirt
253(1)
Pull-on Unisex Pants with No Side Seams or Zipper
254(1)
Jackets and Coats
254(1)
Princess-Line Coat
254(2)
Problems
256(2)
15 Patterns for Knit Garments
258(12)
Stretch and Recovery
259(1)
Variation in Stretch
259(1)
Shrinkage
259(1)
Patterns for Knits
259(1)
Length and Width Reductions
260(1)
Dartless Bodice Block with Sleeve for a Knit with Slight or Moderate Stretch
261(2)
Close-Fitting Bodice for Superstretch Knit
263(1)
Body-Conforming Short Skirt Made of Superstretch Knit
264(1)
Bicycle Shorts for Superstretch Knit Fabric with Spandex
265(1)
Bodysuits
266(1)
Test Pattern with a Trial Garment
267(1)
Sewing Suggestions for Knits
268(2)
16 Knockoff Designs and Garment Specifications
270(12)
Taking the Garment Apart at the Seamlines
271(1)
Using the Rub-off Technique
271(1)
Using the Paper and Tracing-Wheel Method
272(3)
Using a Tape Measure
275(1)
Garment Specifications
276(1)
Knit Blouse Specifications
276(3)
Woven Pants Specifications
279(3)
17 Evening Wear
282(10)
Evening Gown with Trumpet Flare Skirt
283(1)
Asymmetric Top with One Bare Shoulder
284(1)
Strapless Top
285(2)
Overskirts
287(1)
Necklines
287(1)
Waistlines
287(1)
Combinations of Fabrics
288(1)
Back Interest in Gowns
288(1)
Cutaway Areas
288(1)
Flared Ruffle Front Detail
288(1)
Layers of Fabric
289(1)
Jackets with Fancy Trims
289(1)
The Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve
289(1)
Sleeve with a V Point at the Wrist
290(1)
Shirred Cap Sleeves
291(1)
18 Decorative Design
292(25)
Appliques
293(2)
Pockets
295(1)
Bows
296(1)
3-D Flowers
296(1)
Tucks
297(2)
Embroidery
299(1)
Braid Trim
299(1)
Fringe Trim
300(1)
Color Blocking
300(1)
Piping
301(3)
Quilt Designs
304(1)
Frogs
304(2)
Stripes
306(1)
Plaids
306(3)
Tabs
309(1)
Zippers
309(1)
Buttons and Buttonholes
309(3)
Belts
312(1)
Contrasting Colored Cuffs, Collars, and Pockets
312(1)
Asymmetric Designs
312(1)
Shirring
312(1)
Appropriate Fabrics for Patterns
312(5)
Appendix A Slopers 317(23)
Appendix B Metric Conversion Table 340(2)
Appendix C Standard Body Measurement Charts 342(2)
Appendix D Other Resources for Apparel Pattern Makers 344(5)
Index 349

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