CART

(0) items

Patternmaking for Fashion Design,9780131112117
This item qualifies for
FREE SHIPPING!

FREE SHIPPING OVER $59!

Your order must be $59 or more, you must select US Postal Service Shipping as your shipping preference, and the "Group my items into as few shipments as possible" option when you place your order.

Bulk sales, PO's, Marketplace Items, eBooks, Apparel, and DVDs not included.

Patternmaking for Fashion Design

by
Edition:
5th
ISBN13:

9780131112117

ISBN10:
0131112112
Format:
Hardcover w/Disk
Pub. Date:
1/1/2010
Publisher(s):
Prentice Hall
List Price: $119.00
More New and Used
from Private Sellers
Starting at $115.59
See Prices

Rent Textbook

We're Sorry
Sold Out

Used Textbook

We're Sorry
Sold Out

eTextbook

We're Sorry
Not Available

New Textbook

We're Sorry
Sold Out

Related Products


  • Patternmaking for Fashion Design
    Patternmaking for Fashion Design
  • Patternmaking for Fashion Design
    Patternmaking for Fashion Design
  • Patternmaking for Fashion Design
    Patternmaking for Fashion Design




Summary

Renowned for its comprehensive coverage, exceptional illustrations, and clear instructions, this hallmark book offers detailed yet easy-to-understand explanations of the essence of patternmaking. Hinging on a recurring theme that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking and design principlesdart manipulation, added fullness, and contouringit provides all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity.Sewing guides included for the pleated trouser (with pattern layout), belt/loops, pockets, and zipper; the jean pant with pockets, countour belt, and fly front; and the gusset. Updated jacket foundation draft includes fabric preparation, interfacing, chest piece, tape control, and shoulder pads. Pant draftsTrouser draft including pocket, waistband, and loop; dungaree foundation draft; grunge pant draft; and three jean waistline variations including pocket and sewing instruction. Includes fitting corrections for the basic patterns. Unique section on patternmaking for bias-cut garments.For anyone developing their patternmaking skills.

Table of Contents

Preface xix
Acknowledgments xxi
The Workroom
Patternmaking Tools
2(3)
Functions of Patternmaking Tools
4(1)
Pattern Paper
5(1)
Patternmaking Terms
5(1)
Pattern Production Terms
6(1)
The Way We Were
7(1)
Apparel Product Development
8(2)
Computer Companies
8(1)
Body Scanning
8(1)
3-D Modeling
8(1)
Pattern Development Systems
9(1)
Pattern Input---Digitizer
9(1)
Digital Printing by Lectra
9(1)
Cost Sheet
10(1)
Pattern Chart
11(1)
Design Specifications Sheet
12(1)
Dart
13(1)
Terminology
13(1)
Blending, Trueing, and Equalizing
13(1)
Styleline Guides
14(1)
Fabric Terms
15(2)
Pattern Grainline
17(1)
Balance Line Terms
18(1)
Special Information
19(3)
Model Form and Measurements
Who is the Standard Ideal Figure?
22(2)
Do Perfect Ratio Measurements Mean Perfect Proportions?
22(1)
The Perfect Figure (Red Leotard) Versus the Rest of Us
23(1)
Head Height---a Measuring Device for Comparison
23(1)
Pattern Industry Standards
24(1)
Department Store Standards
24(1)
Other Attempts at Standardization
24(1)
Astm Standards
24(1)
Landmark Terms
25(1)
Symbol Key
25(1)
Measuring the Form
26(1)
Preparing the Form for Measuring
26(1)
Taking Measurements
27(1)
Circumference Measurements
27(1)
Horizontal Balance Line (Hbl)
27(1)
Horizontal Measurements
28(1)
Front
28(1)
Back
28(1)
Vertical Measurements
29(1)
Front and Back
29(1)
Strap Measurements
29(1)
Standard Measurement Chart
30(2)
Drafting the Basic Pattern Set
The Basic Dress Foundation
32(2)
Measurement
32(1)
Creating Basic Patterns
33(1)
Pattern Shapes Described
33(1)
Why Darts?
33(1)
Front Bodice Draft
34(2)
Back Bodice Draft
36(3)
Increasing and Decreasing Bust Cup
38(1)
Fitting the Bodice
39(1)
Perfect Alignment
39(1)
Imperfect Alignment
39(1)
Fitting the Neckline
40(1)
Fitting the Armhole
40(2)
Skirt Draft
42(5)
Skirt Front and Back
42(2)
Skirt Back (for Suits and Separates)
44(1)
Fitting the Skirt
45(1)
Fitting Adjustments Notes
46(1)
Preparing Patterns for Test Fit
47(2)
Matching Joining Seams
47(2)
The Basic Sleeve
49(1)
Sleeve Terminology
49(1)
Sleeve Cap Ease
50(1)
Armhole Measurement
50(1)
Sleeve Measurement Chart
50(1)
Sleeve Draft
51(2)
Adjusting Sleeve to Armhole of Bodice
53(6)
Determining Cap Ease
53(2)
Adjusting the Armhole to Accommodate Cap Ease
55(1)
Increase or Decrease the Width of the Biceps
56(1)
Setting the Sleeve into the Armhole
57(1)
Evaluate the Hang and Fit of the Sleeve
57(2)
Increase or Decrease Cap Ease
59(1)
Seamless Working Patterns
59(1)
Completing the Pattern
60(4)
Pattern Information
60(1)
Seam Allowance
60(1)
Basic Pattern Set---Seamed
61(3)
Dart Manipulation (Principle #1)
Introduction
64(1)
Working Patterns
64(1)
Patternmaking Techniques
64(1)
Design Analysis and the Three Major Patternmaking Principles
64(1)
Patternmaking Terms
65(1)
Test Fit
65(1)
Dart Manipulation
66(4)
Principle #1: Introduction to Design Patterns
66(1)
Applying Dart Manipulation---Principle #1
66(1)
Patternmaking Techniques
66(1)
Charting Dart Location
67(1)
More About Darts
68(1)
Completing the Dart
68(2)
Single-Dart Series---Slash-Spread Technique
70(5)
The Process
70(1)
Center Front Waist Dart
70(2)
Center Front Neck Dart
72(1)
Mid-Shoulder Dart
73(1)
French Dart
74(1)
Single-Dart Series---Pivotal-Transfer Technique
75(5)
Mid-Neck Dart
75(2)
Side Dart
77(1)
Mid-Armhole Dart
78(1)
Shoulder-Tip Dart
79(1)
The Shoulder Dart
80(1)
The Multidispersion Working Pattern for Use When Shoulder Dart Not Required
80(1)
The Back Neck Dart
81(1)
Excess Transferred to Armhole
81(1)
Self-Evaluation Test
82(3)
Consistency of Dart Angle
84(1)
Proof of Principle #1
84(1)
Two-Dart Series---Slash-Spread Technique
85(4)
Waist and Side Dart
85(2)
Mid-Shoulder and Waist Dart
87(1)
Mid-Armhole and Waist Dart
88(1)
Two-Dart Series---Pivotal-Transfer Technique
89(3)
Mid-Neck and Waist Dart
89(1)
Shoulder-Tip and Waist Dart
90(1)
Center Front Neck and Waist Dart
91(1)
Self-Evaluation Test
92(2)
Designing with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flares, and Gathers)
Introduction
94(1)
Tuck-Dart
95(1)
Pleat
95(1)
Flare
95(1)
Gathers
96(2)
Slash-Spread Technique
96(1)
Pivotal-Transfer Technique
97(1)
Dart Clusters and Dart Equivalents
98(5)
Waist Cluster
98(1)
Dart Cluster
99(1)
Tuck-Dart Cluster
100(1)
Pleat Cluster
100(1)
Shoulder Cluster
101(1)
Center Front Bust Cluster
102(1)
Graduated and Radiating Darts
103(2)
Graduated Darts
103(1)
Radiating Darts
104(1)
Parallel Darts
105(4)
Parallel French Darts
105(1)
Parallel Darts at Neck
106(1)
Parallel Darts---Cape Effect
107(1)
Parallel Dart Design Variations
108(1)
Asymmetric Darts
109(4)
Asymmetric Radiating Darts
109(2)
Asymmetric Curved Darts
111(1)
Asymmetric Dart Variations
112(1)
Intersecting Darts
113(2)
Intersecting Dart to Waist
113(1)
Intersecting Dart with Gathers
114(1)
Intersecting Dart Design Variations
115(3)
Stylelines
Introduction
118(1)
Classic Princess Styleline
118(4)
Design Analysis
118(3)
Classic Princess Styleline Variations
121(1)
Armhole Princess Styleline
122(3)
Armhole Princess Styleline Variations
124(1)
Panel Styleline
125(5)
Panel Styleline Variations
127(3)
Added Fullness (Principle #2)
Added Fullness: Principle #2
130(8)
Three Types of Added Fullness
130(1)
Identifying Added Fullness
131(1)
Fullness Along Princess Line
132(1)
Fullness at a Semi-Yoke Above Bust
133(1)
Added Fullness to a Dart Leg
134(1)
Gathers on a Style Dart
135(1)
Fullness Around Neck Band
136(1)
Added Fullness Design Variations
137(1)
Blouson Foundation
138(4)
Modified Blouson
139(1)
Blouson with Increased Fullness
140(2)
Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks
Yokes for Bodice
142(4)
Basic Front Yoke---Slash and Spread
142(1)
Basic Back Yoke---Pivotal and Transfer
143(1)
Back Yoke with Inverted Box Pleat
144(1)
Back Yoke with Added Fullness/Gathers
144(1)
Back Yoke with Action Pleat
145(1)
Yoke Design Variations
145(1)
Flanges
146(6)
Dart Flange
146(1)
Flange to Waist
147(2)
Flange Inset
149(2)
Flange Design Variations
151(1)
Pleat Tucks and Pin Tucks
152(4)
Pleat Tucks
152(2)
Pin Tucks
154(2)
Contouring (Principle #3)
Contouring: Principle #3
156(2)
Contour Designs
156(1)
Figure Versus Basic Garment
157(1)
Fitting Problems
157(1)
The Contour Guide Patterns
158(8)
Preparing the Contour Guide Patterns
158(1)
Measure Depth of the Hollow Areas and Chart the Patterns
159(1)
Guideline 1---Cutout Necklines
159(1)
Guideline 2---Cutout Armholes
159(1)
Guideline 3---Armhole Ease
160(1)
Guideline 4---Empire Styleline
160(1)
Guideline 5---Contour Between the Busts
161(1)
Guideline 6---Strapless Designs
161(1)
Shoulder Slope and Side Ease
162(1)
Guideline 7---Back
162(1)
How to Use the Contour Guide Patterns
163(3)
The Classic Empire
166(4)
Empire with Shirred Midriff
168(2)
Surplice (or Wrap) Designs
170(2)
Pattern for Left Side
171(1)
Pattern for Right Side
171(1)
Off-Shoulder Designs
172(2)
Gathered Shoulder
172(2)
Halters
174(2)
V-Neck Halter
174(2)
Collars
Introduction
176(1)
Collar Terms
176(1)
Collar Stand and Roll Types
177(1)
Collar Classifications
177(1)
Basic Shirt Collar Foundation
178(4)
Straight Collar
178(1)
Undercollar
179(1)
Folded Basic Collar
180(1)
Collar Variations
180(1)
Fit Problems of the Collar
181(1)
Peter Pan Collars
182(3)
Principle
182(1)
Relationship of the Collar's Stand, Width, and Neckline
182(1)
Three Basic Peter Pan Collars
182(1)
Peter Pan with 1-Inch Stand (Full-Roll)
183(1)
Peter Pan with 1/2-Inch Stand (Partial-Roll)
184(1)
Peter Pan with Flat-Roll
184(1)
Sailor Collar
185(3)
Basic Sailor Collar
185(2)
Sailor with Inset
187(1)
Collars with Deep, Open Necklines
188(1)
Collar for V-Neck
188(1)
Collar for Stylized Neckline
188(1)
Mandarin Collar
189(2)
Basic Mandarin---Design 1
189(1)
Mandarin Collar Variations
190(1)
Collar with Stand
191(1)
Wide Collar and Stand
192(1)
Collar and Stand Away from the Basic Neckline
193(1)
All-in-One Collar and Stand
194(1)
Roll Collars
195(2)
Turtle Neck
195(1)
Roll Collar with Cutaway Neck
196(1)
Collar Design Variations
197(3)
Built-Up Necklines
Built-Up Necklines
200(4)
Stovepipe Neckline
200(2)
Built-Up Bateau Neckline
202(2)
Inset Bands
204(4)
Rounded Inset Band
204(1)
Inset Band Variations
205(3)
Cowls
Cowls
208(10)
Types of Cowls
208(1)
Nature of the Bias Cut
209(1)
Twisting
209(1)
Making Patterns for Bias-Cut Cowls
209(1)
Finding True Bias
210(1)
Fitting the Cowl Drape
210(1)
Correcting the Pattern
210(1)
High Relaxed Cowl
211(2)
Mid-Depth Cowl
213(2)
Low Cowl
215(1)
Deep Cowl
216(2)
Back Cowls
218(3)
High-Back Cowl
218(2)
Mid-Back Cowl
220(1)
Low-Back Cowl
220(1)
One-Piece Armhole Cowls
221(2)
Pleated Cowls
223(2)
Pleated Shoulder Cowl
223(2)
Exaggerated Cowls
225(2)
High Exaggerated Cowl
225(2)
Inset Cowls
227(3)
V-Inset Cowl
227(3)
Skirts/Circles and Cascades
Introduction
230(1)
Skirt Lengths
230(1)
Four Skirt Foundations
231(1)
Straight or Rectangular Shape (Basic Skirt)
231(1)
A-Shape or Triangular
231(1)
Pegged or Inverted Triangle
231(1)
Bell-Shape
231(1)
Flexibility of Skirt Darts
232(1)
Low-Waist Skirts
233(1)
High-Waist Skirts
234(1)
Preparing the Skirt
234(1)
Preparing Zipper and Waistband
235(1)
Basic Waistband
236(2)
Stitching Guide
237(1)
Flared Skirts
238(8)
A-Line Flared Skirt
238(2)
Basic Flared Skirt
240(2)
One-Dart Skirt Foundation
242(1)
Flared Skirt Based on One-Dart Pattern
243(1)
Added Flare Skirt
244(2)
Skirts with Gathered Waistlines
246(4)
Computing for Gathers
246(1)
Flared Skirt with Gathered Waist
246(1)
Gathered Dirndl Skirt
247(1)
Clinging Hipline with Flare Skirt---the Slinky Skirt
248(2)
Gored Skirts
250(13)
4-Gore Flared Skirt
250(1)
6-Gore and 8-Gore Skirt
251(3)
8-Gore Pleated Skirt
254(3)
12-Gore Skirt
257(2)
12-Gore Graduated Flare
259(2)
Zigzag 12-Gore Skirt
261(2)
Pegged Skirt with Pleats
263(1)
Draped Wrap Skirt with a Cascade
264(4)
Asymmetric Radiating Gathers
266(2)
Skirts with Yokes
268(4)
Yoke with Gathered Skirt
268(2)
Diagonal Yoke with Flared Skirt
270(2)
Tiers
272(5)
Terms
272(1)
Attached Tiers
272(2)
Separated Tiers
274(1)
Peplums
274(3)
Pleats
277(8)
Types of Pleats
277(1)
Pleat Terminology
278(1)
Kick Pleats
278(2)
All-Around Pleated Skirt
280(2)
Inverted Box-Pleated Skirt
282(3)
Godets
285(2)
Basic Godet
285(1)
Godet Variations
286(1)
Wrap Skirt
287(2)
Wrap Skirt with Side Seam
287(1)
All-in-One Wrap Skirt
288(1)
Circles, Peplums, and Cascades
289(11)
Terminology
290(1)
Circle Within a Circle
290(1)
Parts of a Circle
290(1)
Radius Chart for Circle Skirts and Cascades
291(1)
Full-Circle Skirt
292(3)
Grainline Placement Relative to the Fall of the Flare
295(1)
Hemline Adjustments
295(1)
Three-Quarter Circle Skirt
296(1)
Half-Circle Skirt
297(1)
Quarter-Circle Skirt
298(1)
Two Circles at Waist (Not Illustrated)
299(1)
Gathered Circular Skirt (Not Illustrated)
299(1)
Skirts with Uneven Hemlines
300(3)
Circular Skirt with Handkerchief Hem
300(1)
Circular Skirt with Graduated-Length Hemline
301(2)
Skirt Design Variations
303(3)
Sleeves
Introduction
306(2)
Set-in Sleeve
306(1)
Terminology
307(1)
Elbow Dart Variations
307(1)
Shoulder Pads
308(1)
Sleeve Cuffs
308(4)
Basic Shirt Cuff
309(1)
Self-Faced Cuff
309(1)
French Cuff (Used with Cufflinks)
309(1)
Contoured Cuff
310(1)
Roll-Up Cuff
311(1)
Cap Sleeves
312(1)
Jutting Cap
312(1)
Dartless Sleeve Pattern
313(1)
Modifying Armhole to Reduce Sleeve Cap Ease
314(1)
Options
314(1)
Puff Sleeves
314(3)
Fullness at Hem
315(1)
Fullness at Cap
316(1)
Fullness at Hem and Cap
316(1)
Circular Hemline Sleeves
317(2)
Half-Circle Sleeves
317(1)
Bell Sleeves
318(1)
Petal Sleeves
319(2)
Plain Petal---Design 1
319(1)
Gathered Petal
320(1)
Flared Petal
320(1)
Lantern Sleeves
321(3)
Long Lantern Sleeve---Design 1
321(2)
Short Lantern Sleeve---Design 2
323(1)
Sleeves with Extended Caps
324(4)
Darted Cap
324(1)
Crescent-Shaped, Extended Cap
325(1)
Gathered Crescent Sleeve
326(1)
Sleeve with Vertical Pleat
327(1)
Leg-of-Mutton Sleeves
328(1)
Cowl Sleeves
329(1)
Wedding Sleeves
330(1)
Sleeve Variations with Patterns
331(1)
Sleeves with Lowered Armhole
332(1)
Basic Bishop Sleeves
333(2)
Bishop Sleeve Draft
333(1)
Pivotal-Transfer Method in Developing the Bishop Sleeve
334(1)
Exaggerated Bishop Sleeve
335(3)
Kimono, Raglan, Drop Shoulder, and Exaggerated Armholes
Introduction to Sleeve-Bodice Combinations
338(1)
Basic Kimono
339(3)
Kimono Draft
339(2)
Short-Sleeve Kimono
341(1)
Basic Dolman
342(1)
One-Piece Combinations
343(2)
Kimono with Shoulderline Seam
343(1)
Kimono without Overarm Seam
344(1)
Kimono Torso Foundation
345(2)
Kimono Dress
347(1)
Caftan---Design 3
348(1)
Kimono with Gussets
349(4)
Raglan Sleeve
353(5)
One-Piece Raglan
357(1)
Raglan Design and Variations
358(3)
Armhole Princess
358(1)
Yoke with Flare Sleeve
359(1)
Raglan Drop Shoulder
360(1)
Drop Shoulder
361(3)
Drop Shoulder Draft
361(2)
Drop Shoulder Variations
363(1)
Designs Based on Raglan Foundation
363(1)
Exaggerated Armholes
364(4)
Deep-Cut Square Armhole
364(4)
Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings
Buttons and Buttonholes
368(4)
Basic Types of Buttons
369(1)
Types of Buttonholes
369(1)
Button/Buttonhole Extension
369(1)
Button and Buttonhole Placement Guide
370(2)
Facings
372(6)
Stitched Facings
372(1)
Fold-Back Facings
372(1)
Common Facings
372(1)
Facings for Cutout Necklines and Armholes
373(5)
Plackets and Pockets
Plackets
378(5)
Pointed Placket with Facing-in-One
378(2)
Wing Collar Placket
380(2)
Slit Opening with Placket
382(1)
Pockets
383(11)
Pocket Classification
383(1)
Outside Pockets
383(2)
Inserted Seam Pocket
385(1)
Jean Pocket
386(1)
Pocket in-One with the Side Seam
387(1)
Accordion Pocket
388(2)
Stylized Outside Pocket
390(1)
Lift-Away Pocket
390(1)
Pocket with Hidden Side Seam
391(3)
Dresses Without Waistline Seams (Based on Torso Foundation)
Torso Foundation
394(5)
Torso Draft
394(4)
Contour Guideline
398(1)
Dress Categories
399(1)
The Three Basic Dress Foundations
399(2)
Knit Dress Designs
399(1)
Shirtmaker Dresses
399(1)
The Sheath (Fitted Silhouette)
400(1)
The Box-Fitted Silhouette
400(1)
The Shift (Semi-Fitted Silhouette)
400(1)
Princess-Line Foundation
401(3)
A-Line Princess
402(2)
Panel Dress Foundation
404(2)
Empire Foundation
406(2)
Tent Foundation
408(2)
Jumper
410(1)
Special Patternmaking Problems
411(5)
Gathers Crossing Dart Areas
411(1)
Stylelines Crossing Dart Areas
412(1)
Stylized One-Piece Front
413(3)
Strapless Foundation and Interconstruction
Introduction
416(1)
Three Strapless Foundations
416(1)
Strapless Princess Bodice Foundations 1 and 2
417(2)
Princess with Gathered Panels
419(1)
Bra-Top Torso Foundation
420(2)
Princess Torso Foundation
422(2)
Fitting Problems and Solutions
424(2)
Construction Support for Strapless Garments
426(8)
Interconstruction---Light and Heavy Weight
427(1)
Types of Boning
427(1)
Preparing Patterns for the Undersupport
428(6)
Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses
Introduction
434(1)
Nature of Bias-Cut Fabric
434(1)
Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Garments
434(1)
Two Methods for Reducing Bias Stretch
434(1)
Fabric Selections for Bias-Cut Garments
434(1)
Slip Dress with a Slinky Skirt
435(6)
Twist Bodice with a Slinky Skirt
441(3)
All-in-One Bias Dresses
444(2)
Design Variations
446(2)
Shirts
Shirt and Blouse Foundations
448(12)
Three Shirt and Blouse Foundations
449(1)
Basic Shirt and Blouse Draft
450(1)
Basic Shirt Sleeve Foundation
451(1)
Yoke Shirt
452(2)
Sleeve Hemline Options
454(1)
Closure Options
455(1)
One-Piece Sleeve Placket
456(1)
Shirt Facing and Band Variations
457(2)
Hidden Button/Buttonhole Closure
459(1)
Casual Shirt and Sleeve Foundation
460(3)
Casual Shirt Draft
460(2)
Oversizing the Shirt
462(1)
Peasant Blouse
463(3)
Jackets and Coats
Jacket and Coat Foundations
466(3)
Two Jacket Foundations
466(1)
Jacket and Coat Terms
466(1)
Inner Support---Terms and Definitions
467(1)
Basic Jacket and Coat Foundations
468(1)
The Jacket and Coat Sleeves
469(5)
Cap Ease
469(1)
Grading the Jacket/Coat Sleeves
470(2)
Tailored Two-Piece Sleeve
472(2)
Collar/Lapel Designs
474(8)
Basic Notch Collar/Lapel
474(4)
Low-Notch Lapel
478(2)
Portrait Collar and Lapel
480(2)
Double-Breasted Jacket
482(2)
Design Variations
483(1)
Shawl Foundation
484(4)
Shawl Collar Variations
485(1)
Wide Shawl Collars
486(1)
Shawl Collar with Separated Undercollar and Facing
487(1)
Style Jacket
488(4)
Mannish Jacket Foundation
492(11)
Mannish Jacket Draft
492(1)
One-Piece Mannish Sleeve
493(2)
Two-Piece Mannish Sleeve
495(2)
Collar and Lapel Styles for the Mannish Jacket
497(3)
Transferring Dart to Neckline
500(1)
One-Piece Mannish Jacket Foundation
500(1)
The Wrap-Around Style
501(1)
The Three Panel Style
502(1)
Jacket Construction
503(1)
Preparing Fabric
503(1)
Estimating Yardage
503(1)
Supplies Needed
503(1)
Patterns for Three Panel Style
504(3)
Preparing Lining Patterns
505(1)
Marking Interface Locations
506(1)
Jacket and Lining Seam Allowance
507(1)
Color Codes
507(1)
Pattern Information
507(1)
Applying Interfacing
508(2)
Assembling the Jacket
510(8)
Evaluating the Fit of the Jacket
518(2)
Capes and Hoods
Capes
520(4)
A-Line Cape Foundation
520(2)
Flared Cape Foundation
522(2)
Hoods
524(8)
How to Measure for Hood Draft
524(1)
Contoured Hood Foundation
524(4)
Contoured Hood Design
528(1)
Loose Hood Foundation
529(3)
Knock-Off Copying Ready-Made Designs
Introduction
532(1)
Knock-Off Methods
532(1)
T-Tops
532(1)
Shirt Types
533(2)
Pant Types
535(3)
Jacket Copy
538(6)
Pants
Pants Bifurcated---What's That?
544(1)
The Leg Relative to the Pant
545(1)
Pant Terminology
545(1)
Analysis of the Pant Foundations
546(1)
Summary of the Pant Foundations
547(1)
Measuring for the Pant Draft
548(2)
Culotte---Foundation 1
550(2)
Culotte Draft
550(2)
Trouser---Foundation 2 (For Women and Men)
552(4)
Slack---Foundation 3 (For Women and Men)
556(1)
Jean---Foundation 4 (For Women and Men)
557(5)
Dartless Jean Pant
560(1)
Variations of the Jean Fit
561(1)
Completing the Pant Pattern
562(2)
How to Walk and True the Pant Patterns
562(1)
Seam Allowance
563(1)
Pant Designs
564(14)
Box-Pleated Culotte
564(1)
Culottes with Long, Wide-Sweeping Hemlines
565(1)
Pleated Trouser (Women and Men)
566(2)
Pocket Draft for Trouser
568(1)
Cutting the Trouser Patterns
569(2)
Finishing Methods
571(1)
Sewing Instructions for the Pocket
572(2)
Attaching the Zipper
574(2)
Belt Loops
576(1)
Waist Band
577(1)
The Dungarees Foundation
578(15)
The Foundation Draft
578(1)
Dungarees Chic
579(2)
Baggy Pant (for Women and Men)
581(1)
Hip Hop Pant
582(1)
Pull-On Pant with Self-Casing
583(1)
High-Waist Pant (for Women and Men)
584(1)
Jean with V-Yoke (for Women and Men)
585(5)
Contour Pant with Creaseline Flare
590(1)
Pant with Flared Leg (for Women and Men)
591(1)
Pant with Curved Hemline
591(1)
Clown Pant
592(1)
Pant Derivatives
593(5)
Names and Terms
593(1)
Developing Pant Derivatives
594(1)
Short-Shorts
594(1)
Short, Jamaica, and Bermuda Pants
595(1)
Pedal-Pushers, Toreador Pants, and Capri Pants
596(1)
Design Variations
597(1)
Jumpsuit Foundations
598(4)
Trouser/Slack Jumpsuit Foundations
598(1)
Jean Jumpsuit Foundation
599(1)
Styled Jumpsuit
600(1)
Great Coverall
601(1)
Pant Fit Problems/Corrections
602(8)
Model #1 Proper Stance
602(1)
Model #2 Fit Problems
602(1)
Analyzing the Fit of the Pant
602(8)
Knits---Stretch and Shrinkage Factors
Introduction
610(1)
Stretch and Recovery Factor
610(1)
Stretch Factor
610(1)
Recovery Factor
610(1)
Variance in Stretch
610(1)
Stretch/and Recovery Gauge
611(1)
Classification of Knit Fabrics
612(1)
Direction of Stretch
612(1)
Adapting Patterns to Knits
613(3)
The Shrinkage Factor
613(1)
The Stretch Factor
614(2)
Knit Top Foundations
Types of Knit Foundations
616(1)
Dartless Stretchy Knit---Draft 1
616(2)
Dartless Firm Knit---Draft 2
618(1)
Oversized Knit Top---Draft 3
619(2)
Cotton Knit Top Draft
619(1)
Ribbing
620(1)
Crop Top with a Muscle Sleeve
621(1)
Knit Top
622(2)
Activewear for Dance and Exercise
Bodysuits and Leotards
624(1)
The Bodysuit Foundation
624(3)
Method for Correcting Pattern to Improve Fit
627(1)
Lycra Sleeve Draft
628(2)
No-Side-Seam Bodysuit
628(1)
One-Piece Bodysuit
629(1)
Bodysuit Design Variations
630(5)
Bodysuit with Scooped Neck and Cutouts
630(1)
Bodysuit with High-Necked Halter Top
631(2)
Separated Bodysuit
633(1)
Tights
634(1)
Stirrups
634(1)
Leotard Foundation
635(3)
Method for Correcting Pattern to Improve Fit
638(8)
All-in-One Leotard
639(1)
Color-Block Design for Leotard
639(2)
Leotard with Raglan Sleeve
641(2)
Basic Tank Leotard
643(3)
Swimwear
Swimwear Types
646(1)
Maillot Foundation
647(9)
Maillot Draft
647(2)
Basic Tank-Top Maillot
649(1)
Maillot with Bra Lining
650(2)
Princess Maillot
652(2)
Maillot with Inset Bra
654(1)
Asymmetric Maillot
655(1)
Bikini Foundation
656(1)
Bikini Based on Maillot or Leotard Foundation
656(1)
Bikini Based on Front Skirt Foundation
656(1)
Bikini Bottom Variations
657(1)
High-Cut Leg Bikini
657(1)
Bikini Top Variations
658(8)
Princess-Line Bikini Top
658(1)
Strap Variations
659(1)
Bra Top with Horizontal Styleline
660(1)
Bra Tops for Bikini Bottoms
661(3)
String-a-Long Bikini Top
664(1)
Bandeau Bikini Top
665(1)
Little-Boy Legline Foundation
666(3)
Little-Boy Legline Variations
667(1)
Little-Boy Draft
667(2)
Full-Figure Swim Foundation
669(3)
Full-Figure Swim Draft
669(1)
Swimsuit with Skirt Front
670(2)
Supplies and Special Information
672(7)
Use of Elastic
672(1)
Finishing Crotch and Shoulder
673(1)
Bra Cups for Swimwear
674(2)
Attaching Neck Straps to Swimsuit
676(2)
Introduction to Childrenswear
Childrenswear Challenges
678(1)
Color and Functional Clothing
678(1)
Representative Sizes
678(1)
Size Groupings
678(1)
Observable Differences
678(1)
Size Categories for Childrenswear
679(1)
Sizing Methods
679(1)
Alternate Sizing
680(1)
Sources of Inspiration
680(4)
Children's Fashion References
680(4)
Drafting the Basic Pattern Set (Measurement Taking and Standard Measurement Charts)
Measuring the Form---Children, 3 to 6X, Girls, 7 to 14; and Boys, 7 to 14
684(3)
Form Preparation
684(1)
Armhole Depth Chart
684(1)
Torso Circumference Measurements
684(1)
Vertical Measurements
685(1)
Horizontal Measurements
685(1)
Leg Measurements
686(1)
Arm Measurements
686(1)
Standard Measurement Chart for Boys and Girls
687(1)
Standard Measurement Chart for Girls
688(1)
The Basic Pattern Set
689(2)
The Basic Pattern for Boyswear
689(1)
Front Bodice Draft
689(1)
Back Bodice Draft
690(1)
Darts and Dart Equivalents
691(5)
Basic Skirt Draft
692(1)
Basic Sleeve
693(3)
Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts
Collars
696(1)
Collar Designs
696(1)
Shirt Collar
696(1)
Sailor Collar
696(1)
Peter Pan Collar
696(1)
Collar and Stand Collar
696(1)
Dartless Sleeve Foundation
697(1)
Dartless Sleeve Draft
697(1)
Sleeves
698(1)
Puff Sleeve
698(1)
Leg-o-Mutton
698(1)
Petal Sleeve
698(1)
Bell Sleeve
698(1)
Sleeve Design Variations
699(3)
Cap Sleeve---Design 1
699(1)
Ruffled Sleeve---Design 2
700(1)
Saucer Sleeve---Design 3
700(1)
Baby Puff Sleeve---Design 4
700(1)
Drawstring Sleeve
701(1)
Skirts
702(6)
Tiered Skirts
702(1)
Cascades/Partial Circles
702(1)
Gore Skirts
702(1)
Pleated Skirt
702(1)
Full Circle Skirt
702(1)
Flared Skirt
703(1)
Gathered Skirt with Stylized Waist Band
704(1)
Yoked Circular Skirt
705(3)
Dresses and Jumpers
The Shift Foundation---3 to 6X and 7 to 14
708(6)
Shift Draft
708(1)
Princess Styleline
709(1)
Princess Draft
709(2)
Empire with Flare
711(1)
Empire Draft
712(2)
Tent Foundation
714(1)
Tent Draft
714(1)
Tent Variations
715(5)
Bib Jumper Draft
715(1)
Tank-Top Jumper Draft
716(1)
Torso Jumper
717(1)
Torso Jumper Draft
717(3)
Tops
Dartless Top Foundation
720(2)
The Dartless Draft
720(2)
Basic Shirt and Sleeve Foundation
722(2)
Shirt Draft
722(2)
Shirt Sleeve
724(2)
Shirt Sleeve Draft
724(2)
Oversized Shirt and Sleeve
726(2)
Oversized Shirt Draft
726(1)
Oversized Shirt Sleeve Draft
727(1)
Knit Foundation and Sleeve
728(4)
Knit Draft
728(1)
Knit Sleeve Draft
729(1)
Modified Knit Top
730(1)
Tank Top
731(1)
Raglan Foundation
732(3)
Raglan Draft
732(3)
Jacket Foundation
735(5)
Sleeve Modification
735(1)
Jacket Draft
735(1)
Jacket with Notched Collar
736(2)
Cardigan Jacket
738(1)
Vest
739(1)
Sleeve and Coat Foundation
740(1)
Sleeve Draft
740(1)
Coat Draft
740(1)
Navy Pea Coat
741(5)
Pants and Jumpsuits
Introduction to Pants
746(1)
Trouser Foundation
746(2)
Trouser Draft
746(2)
Slack Foundation
748(1)
Slack Draft
748(1)
Jean Foundation
749(2)
Jean Draft
749(2)
Waist Options
751(2)
Waist Band Draft
751(1)
Waist Band Controls the Waist
751(1)
Elastic Controls the Waist
751(1)
Partial Waist Band and Elastic
752(1)
Pant Variations
753(1)
Pleated Trouser
753(1)
Baggy Pant
754(5)
Western Jean
755(2)
Bell-Bottom Pants
757(2)
Guideline Marking for Pant Derivatives
759(3)
Definitions
759(1)
Flared Shorts
760(1)
Short-Shorts
761(1)
Knickers---Design 3
761(1)
Jumpsuit Foundation
762(6)
Jumpsuit Draft
763(1)
Jumpsuit with Blousing
764(1)
Oversized Jumpsuit
764(1)
Tank-Top Jumpsuit
765(1)
Bib Overall
766(2)
Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear
Bodysuit
768(2)
Tank-Top Bodysuit Draft
769(1)
Bodysuit with Sleeves
770(1)
Bodysuit Draft
770(1)
Lycra Knit Sleeve
770(1)
Tights with Top
771(1)
Top and Bottom Patterns
771(1)
Tights
771(1)
Tank-Top Leotard
772(1)
Leotard Draft
772(1)
Leotard with Sleeve
773(1)
Maillot Foundation
774(1)
Maillot Draft
774(1)
Bikini Swimsuit
775(2)
Bikini Draft
775(2)
Appendix 777(19)
Bibliographic Credits 796(1)
Index 797(13)
Guide to Reading Ruler Increments 810


Please wait while the item is added to your cart...