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In Welsh we have a word - hiraeth. It describes a feeling of belonging - to a place, to a person. It's where you are from, it's what you are about. We are all caretakers of the land we live off. We can all do our bit and eat very well out of it. So whether you are trawling the supermarket aisles or have the opportunity - and please, please take it if you have - to use farmers' markets, butchers, greengrocers and fishmongers, choose the best ingredients you can afford. Enjoy preparing and cooking the. And, most of all, savor the pleasure of eating and sharing something you have created yourself."