Preface | p. xv |
Introduction: The Wonders of the World | p. xix |
Bread | p. 1 |
The Promise Coffee | p. 7 |
Key to the City | p. 14 |
Dancing at the Blood Festival | p. 26 |
The Way of Suffering | p. 35 |
Kidnapped by Syrian Hospitality | p. 41 |
Just Under Your Feet | p. 50 |
Confessions of a Water Pipe Smoker | p. 60 |
To Hamadan | p. 66 |
If It Doesn't Kill You First | p. 80 |
Walking in Yemen's Terraced Mountains | p. 98 |
Witnessing Ashura | p. 107 |
In Jerusalem | p. 118 |
Serendipity in Cyprus | p. 127 |
Five-Star Mussandam Bush | p. 135 |
Magic Carpet Ride | p. 147 |
Shlonak? | p. 161 |
A Damascus Cab Ride | p. 164 |
An Afternoon in Kavaklidere | p. 170 |
Half Truths and Olive Trees | p. 176 |
Clothes, Camaraderie, and Qat | p. 185 |
Instant Mother, Just Add Tea | p. 195 |
From the Oasis to the City | p. 202 |
The Neon Night of the Emirates | p. 209 |
Repatriation and Regret | p. 217 |
Oh, Little Town of Bethlehem | p. 226 |
Without Cover | p. 232 |
Gridlocked Tehran at Gunpoint | p. 243 |
Holy Land Blues | p. 257 |
The Mukhtar and I | p. 271 |
Recommended Reading | p. 283 |
Index | p. 291 |
Acknowledgments | p. 293 |
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