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Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.
Gerry Lopez made his reputation at Pipeline, then went on to a lifelong career in surfing, snowboarding, and stand-up-paddle. He cofounded Lightning Bolt® Maui surfboards, was instrumental in developing the high-performance shortboard, and has appeared in many films. He lives in Bend, OR. Steve Pezman is the founder and has been the editor of The Surfer’s Journal since 1992. He lives in San Clemente, CA.
Table of Contents
I. introduction Sweet Candy Days Pakala A First Time at the Pipeline II. The boys RB A Giant Among Men No Prisoners Flippy, Pipe Days Jan’s Board The Track of the Cat Momentary Entertainment Herbie The Fastest Wave in the World Whitey and the Duke Dr. Surf Coming Down Big Wally III. All shook up Everything Bad Goes Down in Parking Lots Cannons The Big Swim Caught Inside Again Incident at Eke Moku G-Land The Mother of All Pipeline Swells A Good Day to Die
IV. traveling for surf Tales of Indonesia Treasure Islands The Mile Long Rides Chile
V. surf is where you find it The Demise of the Ditch A Big Score Keep Paddling The Gorge
VI. just for fun The Country The Money Motive The Best Surfer in the Flesh A Saturday at Ala Moana Get It While You Can A Good Deal The Last Laugh