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Textiles

by ;
Edition:
10th
ISBN13:

9780131187696

ISBN10:
0131187694
Format:
Hardcover
Pub. Date:
1/1/2007
Publisher(s):
Prentice Hall
List Price: $129.80

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Summary

This popular book, now in its 10th edition, considers textiles as the materials used to create apparel, furnishings, and industrial products. It approaches textiles from a product analysis approach, using professional terminology, and provides examples to illustrate key concepts.Flow charts on identifying fabric structure and naming fancy woven fabrics; other fabrication methods; and knits have been added. Also included are tables summarizing components such as fibers, yarns, fabric structure, and finishes. An expanded glossary makes it easier for readers to find pertinent information.For designers, technical designers, apparel engineers, and others in the fashion/apparel business.

Table of Contents

Preface xiii
SECTION ONE Introduction to Textiles
1(16)
Introduction
3(6)
Product Development from a Textile Perspective
9(8)
Serviceability and the Consumer
11(1)
Performance
11(3)
Information Sources
14(3)
SECTION TWO Fibers
17(156)
Textile Fibers and Their Properties
19(20)
Fiber Properties
20(4)
Physical Structure
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement
Serviceability
24(10)
Aesthetic Properties
Durability Properties
Comfort Properties
Appearance-Retention Properties
Resistance to Chemicals
Resistance to Light
Environmental Impact
Care Properties
Cost
Fiber Property Charts
Fiber Identification
34(5)
Visual Inspection
Burn Test
Microscopy
Solubility Tests
Natural Cellulosic Fibers
39(22)
Seed Fibers
41(9)
Cotton
Other Seed Fibers
50(1)
Coir
Kapok
Milkweed
Bast Fibers
51(3)
Flax
Other Bast Fibers
54(3)
Ramie
Hemp
Jute
Kenaf
Hisbiscus
Leaf Fibers
57(1)
Pina
Abaca
Sisal and Henequen
Other Cellulosic Materials
58(3)
Natural Protein Fibers
61(24)
Wool
63(9)
Production of Wool
Types and Kinds of Wool
Physical Structure of Wool
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Wool
Properties of Wool
Environmental Impact of Wool
Uses of Wool
Specialty Wools
72(4)
Mohair
Qiviut
Angora
Camel's Hair
Cashmere
Llama and Alpaca
Vicuna and Guanaco
Yak
Silk
76(5)
Production of Silk
Physical Structure of Silk
Chemical Composition and Molecular Structure of Silk
Properties of Silk
Environmental Impact of Silk
Uses of Silk
Spider Silk
81(1)
Identification of Natural Protein Fibers
81(4)
The Fiber-Manufacturing Process
85(16)
Fiber Spinning
87(2)
Spinning Methods
Fiber Modifications
89(7)
Spinneret Modifications
Molecular Structure and Crystallinity Modifications
Additives to the Polymer or Spinning Solution
Modifications in Fiber Spinning
Complex Modifications
Environmental Impact of Manufactured Fibers
96(1)
Manufactured-Fiber Consumption
97(1)
Manufactured versus Natural Fibers
97(4)
Manufactured Regenerated Fibers
101(16)
Identification of Regenerated Fibers
102(12)
Rayon
Lyocell
Acetate
Other Regenerated Fibers
114(3)
Synthetic Fibers
117(38)
Synthetic Fibers: An Overview
118(5)
Common Properties of Synthetic Fibers
Common Manufacturing Processes
Identification of Synthetic Fibers
Common Fiber Modifications
Synthetic Fibers
123(32)
Nylon
Polyester
Olefin
Acrylic
Modacrylic Fibers
Special-Use Fibers
155(18)
Elastomeric Fibers
156(5)
Rubber
Spandex
Elastoester
Elasterell-p
Lastol
Fibers with Chemical, Heat, or Fire Resistance
161(9)
Aramid
Glass
Metal and Metallic Fibers
Novoloid
PBI
Sulfar
Saran
Vinyon
Vinal
Fluoropolymer
Carbon
Melamine
Other Special-Use Fibers
170(3)
SECTION THREE Yarns
173(38)
Yarn Processing
175(20)
Filament Yarns
176(12)
Smooth-Filament Yarn
Monofilament Yarns
Tape and Network Yarns
Bulk Yarns
Spun Yarns
Processing Staple Fibers
Inserting Yarn Twist
Alternate Spun-Yarn Processes
Spinning Filament Tow into Spun Yarns
High-Bulk Yarns
188(1)
Fiber Blends
188(3)
Blend Levels
Blending Methods
Blended-Filament Yarns
Environmental Impact of Yarn Processing
191(4)
Yarn Classification
195(16)
Fiber Length
197(1)
Yarn Twist
197(3)
Direction of Twist
Amount of Twist
Yarn Size
200(1)
Yarn Number
Denier
Tex System
Yarn Regularity
201(7)
Simple Yarns
Sewing Thread
Fancy Yarns
Composite Yarns
Yarn Performance and Yarn Quality
208(3)
SECTION FOUR
211(116)
Weaving, Basic Weaves, and Fabrics
213(32)
Fabric Quality
215(1)
Woven Fabrics
215(1)
The Loom
216(5)
Preparing for Weaving
Loom Advancements
Environmental Impact of Weaving
Characteristics of Woven Fabrics
221(3)
Warp and Filling
Grain
Fabric Count
Balance
Selvages
Fabric Width
Fabric Weight
Properties of Woven Fabrics
224(2)
Naming and Diagramming Woven Fabrics
226(19)
Plain Weave
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
Fancy Weaves and Fabrics
245(20)
Dobby Weaves
246(1)
Extra-Yarn Weaves
246(3)
Pique Weaves
249(1)
Jacquard Weaves
250(2)
Momie Weaves
252(1)
Leno Weaves
253(1)
Double Cloth
254(2)
Double Weaves
Double-Faced Fabrics
Pile Weaves
256(4)
Filling-Pile Fabrics
Warp-Pile Fabrics
Slack-Tension Weaves
260(1)
Tapestry Weave
261(1)
Narrow Fabrics
262(3)
Knitting and Knit Fabrics
265(28)
Knitting
266(4)
Needles
Stitches
Fabric Characteristics
Environmental Impact of Knitting
Filling (or Weft) Knitting
270(13)
Machines Used in Filling Knitting
Filling-Knit Structures---Stitches
Filling-Knit Fabrics
Warp Knitting
283(10)
Machines Used in Warp Knitting
Warp Knits versus Filling Knits
Warp-Knit Fabrics
Minor Warp Knits
Narrow Knitted Fabrics
Other Fabrication Methods
293(34)
Fabrics from Solutions
294(2)
Films
Foams
Fabrics from Fibers
296(7)
Nonwoven or Fiberweb Structures
Felt
Netlike Structures
Fabrics from Yarns
303(3)
Braids
Lace
Composite Fabrics
306(15)
Coated Fabrics
Poromeric Fabrics
Suedelike Fabrics
Flocked Fabrics
Tufted-Pile Fabrics
Laminates
Stitch-Bonded Fabrics
Quilted Fabrics
Supported-Scrim Structures
Fiber-Reinforced Materials
Animal Products
321(6)
Leather
Furs
SECTION FIVE
327(84)
Finishing: An Overview
329(14)
Routine Steps in Producing a Fabric
332(7)
Fiber Processing
Yarn Processing
Yarn Preparation
Fabrication
Fabric Preparation
Whitening
Further Preparation Steps
Coloration
Finishing
Drying
Reworking
Routine Finishing Steps for Wool Fabrics
339(1)
Crabbing
Decating
Carbonizing
Pressing
Environmental Impact of Finishing
340(3)
Aesthetic Finishes
343(18)
Luster
345(3)
Glazed
Cire
Plasticize
Moire
Schreiner
Embossed
Drape
348(1)
Transparent and Crisp
Burned-Out
Sizing
Weighting
Texture and Hand
349(12)
Embossed
Pleated
Puckered Surface
Plisse
Flocked
Embroidered
Expanded Foam
Sheared
Brushed
Napped
Crepeing
Fulled
Beetled
Coronized
Emerizing, Sueding, or Sanding
Abrasive, Chemical, or Enzyme Washes
Silk Boil-Off
Caustic Treatment
Hand Builders
Special-Purpose Finishes
361(20)
Stabilization: Shrinkage Control
362(3)
Relaxation Shrinkage and Finishes
Progressive Shrinkage and Finishes
Shape-Retention Finishes
365(4)
Theory of Wrinkle Recovery
Durable Press
Quality Performance Standards and Care
Appearance-Retention Finishes
369(2)
Soil- and Stain-Release Finishes
Abrasion-Resistant Finishes
Antislip Finishes
Fume-Fading-Resistant Finishes
Surface or Back Coatings
Light-Stabilizing Finishes
Pilling-Resistant Finishes
Comfort-Related Finishes
371(2)
Water-Repellent Finishes
Porosity-Control Finishes
Water-Absorbent Finishes
Ultraviolet-Absorbent Finishes
Antistatic Finishes
Fabric Softeners
Phase-Change Finishes
Biological-Control Finishes
373(2)
Insect- and Moth-Control Finishes
Mold- and Mildew-Control Finishes
Rot-Proof Finishes
Antimicrobial Finishes
Microencapsulated Finishes
Safety-Related Finishes
375(6)
Flame-Retardant Finishes
Liquid-Barrier Finishes
Light-Reflecting Finishes
Dyeing and Printing
381(30)
Color Theory
382(1)
Colorants
383(2)
Pigments
Dyes
Stages of Dyeing
385(6)
Fiber Stage
Yarn Stage
Piece or Fabric Stage
Product Stage
Methods of Dyeing
391(2)
Batch Dyeing
Package Dyeing
Combination Dyeing
Printing
393(10)
Direct Printing
Discharge Printing
Resist Printing
Other Printing Methods
Recent Developments in Dyeing and Printing
403(1)
Color Problems
404(4)
Environmental Impact of Dyeing and Printing
408(3)
SECTION SIX Other Issues Related to Textiles
411(45)
Care of Textile Products
413(18)
Factors Related to Cleaning
416(3)
Soil and Soil Removal
Detergency
Solvents
Laundering
419(3)
Synthetic Detergents and Soaps
Other Additives
Sorting
Washing
422(1)
Horizontal- and Vertical-Axis Washing Machines
Drying
423(1)
Dry Cleaning
423(2)
Dry Cleaning of Leather and Fur
Home Solvent Cleaning
Professional Wet Cleaning
425(1)
Storage
425(1)
Other Cleaning Methods
426(2)
Vacuuming
Wet Cleaning
Dry-Foam Cleaning
Hot-Water Extraction
Powder Cleaners
Ultrasonic Cleaning
Conservation Practices
428(1)
Environmental Impact of Cleaning
428(3)
Legal and Environmental Concerns
431(18)
Laws and Regulations
432(7)
Silk Regulation, 1932
Wool Products Labeling Act, 1939 (Amended 1986)
Fur Products Labeling Act, 1952 (Amended 1980)
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, 1960 (Amended)
Permanent Care Labeling Regulation, 1972 (Amended 1984)
Laws and Regulations Related to Safety
Flammable Fabrics Act, 1953, and Its Amendment
Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA)
Other Label Information
439(1)
Mandatory and Voluntary Labeling Programs
Codes
440(1)
Tort
441(1)
Consumer Recourse
441(1)
Environmental Issues
441(8)
Environmental Impact
Efforts within the Textile Industry
Environmental Health and Safety
Disposal and Recycling
Career Exploration
449(7)
Sourcing
450(1)
Product Development
451(1)
Production
451(1)
Design
451(2)
Merchandising
453(1)
Marketing
453(1)
Government
453(1)
Education
454(1)
Entrepreneurship
454(1)
Museum or Collection Work
454(1)
Summary
455(1)
Appendix A Fiber Names in Other Languages 456(1)
Appendix B Fibers No Longer Produced in the United States 457(1)
Appendix C Selected Trade Names 458(2)
Glossary 460(31)
Index 491


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