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Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes,9780750642811
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Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes

by
Edition:
2nd
ISBN13:

9780750642811

ISBN10:
0750642815
Format:
Paperback
Pub. Date:
3/28/2000
Publisher(s):
Elsevier Science
List Price: $65.95
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Summary

Completely revised and updated for its second edition, this volume belongs to the Open University series on oceanography. It is designed so that it can be read on its own or studied as part of the Open University third-level course, S330 Oceanography. the book begins by describing the characteristics of waves and tides, and their behaviour in shallow water. After outlining the sources of sediment supply to the oceans, some theoretical aspects of sediment movement and deposition by currents are considered. After looking at wave action in the littoral zone, the interplay of tidal currents, river flow and wave action in estuaries and deltas are explored. The final chapter provides an overview of shelf processes. This is a vital book for all oceanography undergraduate students worldwide.

Table of Contents

About This Volume 8(1)
About This Series 9(3)
Waves
What Are Waves?
12(6)
Types of waves
12(2)
Wind-generated waves in the ocean
14(2)
The fully developed sea
16(1)
Wave height and wave steepness
17(1)
Surface Wave Theory
18(6)
Motion of water particles
20(2)
Wave Speed
22(1)
Wave speed in deep and in shallow water
22(2)
Assumptions made in surface wave theory
24(1)
Wave Dispersion and Group Speed
24(2)
Wave Energy
26(5)
Propagation of wave energy
27(1)
Attenuation of wave energy
27(1)
Swell
28(2)
Uses of wave energy
30(1)
Waves Approaching The Shore
31(7)
Wave refraction
32(3)
Waves breaking upon the shore
35(3)
Waves of Unusual Character
38(6)
Waves and currents
38(2)
Giant waves
40(1)
Tsunamis
41(1)
Seiches
41(3)
Measurement of Waves
44(3)
Satellite observations of waves
44(3)
Summary Of Chapter 1
47(5)
Tides
Tide-Producing Forces-The Earth-Moon System
52(10)
Variations in the lunar-induced tides
59(3)
Tide-Producing Forces-The Earth-Sun System
62(4)
Interaction of solar and lunar tides
63(3)
The Dynamic Theory of Tides
66(6)
Prediction of tides by the harmonic method
70(2)
Real Tides
72(13)
Tides and tidal currents in shallow seas
75(6)
Storm surges
81(1)
Tides in rivers and estuaries
82(1)
Tidal power
83(2)
Summary Of Chapter 2
85(2)
Introduction To Shallow-Water Environments and Their Sediments
Sediments of Shallow-Water Environments
87(8)
The supply of sediments to shelf seas and oceans
91(1)
Variations in supply and distribution of sediments over time
92(3)
Summary Of Chapter 3
95(1)
Principles and Processes Of Sediment Transport
Factors Controlling The Movement of Sediment
96(4)
Frictional forces and the boundary layer
97(2)
Cohesive and non-cohesive sediments
99(1)
Sediment Erosion, Transport And Deposition
100(17)
Erosion of cohesive sediments and yield strength
101(2)
The concept of shear velocity
103(4)
The viscous sublayer
107(3)
Velocity profiles in the sea
110(1)
Shear velocity and the behavior of non-cohesive sediments
111(1)
Rates of sediment transport
112(5)
The Deposition Of Sediment
117(1)
Deposition of the bedload
117(1)
Deposition of the suspended load
117(1)
Bed Forms
118(5)
Summary Of Chapter 4
123(3)
Beaches
The Morphology Of Beaches
126(7)
Beach profiles in relation to grain size and wave steepness
130(3)
Sediment Movement In The Beach Zone
133(9)
Orbital velocities and bed shear stress
133(1)
Sediment movement by waves
134(4)
Longshore sediment transport by wave-generated currents
138(3)
Rip currents
141(1)
Dynamic Equilibrium Of Sediment Supply And Removal
142(5)
Summary Of Chapter 5
147(3)
Estuaries
Sediment Distribution In Estuaries
150(5)
Aggregation of sediment in estuaries
154(1)
Tidal Channels Of Estuaries
155(14)
The estuarine continuum
155(5)
Regions of freshwater influence
160(2)
Sedimentation in estuaries
162(4)
Estuaries in low latitudes
166(1)
The dynamic balance of estuaries
167(2)
Lagoons, Tidal Flats And Barrier Islands
169(4)
Summary Of Chapter 6
173(7)
Deltas
Delta Morphology
180(2)
Mixing And Sediment Deposition At Distributary Mouths
182(5)
The deltaic continuum
182(5)
The Effects Of Human Activities On Deltas
187(1)
Summary Of Chapter 7
188(3)
Shelf Seas
Shelf Sea Processes
191(3)
Coastal and Ocean currents
192(1)
The effects of waves and of bioturbation
193(1)
Sediment Transport And Deposition In Some Shelf Seas
194(5)
The Shelf Sea System From Shore To Shelf Break
199(2)
Summary Of Chapter 8
201(2)
Suggested Further Reading 203(1)
Answers And Comments To Questions 204(18)
Acknowledgements 222(2)
Index 224


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