Chemical Principles of Textile Conservation

by Timar-Balazsy,Agnes

• ISBN13: 9780750626200
• ISBN10: 0750626208
• eBook ISBN(s): 9781136000331
• Edition: 1st
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 1998-06-08
• Publisher: Routledge

Summary

'Chemical Principles of Textile Conservation' provides must-have knowledge for conservators who do not always have a scientific background. This vital book brings together from many sources the material science necessary to understand the properties, deterioration and investigation of textile artefacts. It also aids understanding of the chemical processes during various treatments, such as: cleaning; humidification; drying; disinfestation; disinfection; and the use of adhesives and consolidants in conservation of historical textiles. Textile conservators will now have ready access to the necessary knowledge to understand the chemistry of the objects they are asked to treat and to make informed decisions about how to preserve textiles. the combination of a chemist and a conservator provides the perfect authorial team. It ensures a unique dual function of the text which provides textile conservators with vital chemical knowledge and gives scientists an understanding of textile conservation necessary to direct their research. The many practical examples and case studies illustrate the utility of the relatively large chemical introduction and the essential chemical information which is included. The case studies, many illustrated in colour, range from the treatment of the Ghandis' clothes, high-altitude flying suits and a Mary Quant raincoat, to the Hungarian Coronation Mantle.

Table of Contents

Foreword	ix	(2)
Series editors' preface	xi	(2)
Acknowledgements	xiii	(2)
Illustration acknowledgements	xv	(2)
Introduction	xvii
Part 1 Materials	3	(154)
1 Fibres	3	(64)
1.1 General structure of fibres	3	(16)
1.1.1 Chemical structure of fibre polymers	3	(7)
1.1.2 The `fringed micelle' theory	10	(1)
1.1.3 Mechanical properties of fibres	11	(4)
1.1.4 Moisture regain of fibres	15	(1)
1.1.5 Reaction of fibres to electromagnetic radiation	16	(3)
1.1.6 Degrading effect of heat on fibres	19	(1)
1.1.7 Chemical deterioration of fibres	19	(1)
1.2 Cellulose fibres	19	(17)
1.3 Protein fibres	36	(19)
1.4 Man-made fibres	55	(12)
2 Dyes	67	(33)
2.1 The causes of colour	67	(3)
2.2 Sources of dyes	70	(1)
2.3 Classification of dyes	70	(1)
2.4 The main classes of dyes according to method of application	71	(5)
2.5 The main classes of dyes according to chemical structure	76	(6)
2.6 Colour measurement	82	(6)
2.7 Fading of dyes	88	(4)
2.8 Lightfastness/colourfastness of dyes	92	(3)
2.9 Role of tannins in the deterioration of fibres	95	(1)
2.10 Washfastness of dyes	96	(1)
2.11 Colour change of dyes under various pH conditions	97	(1)
2.12 Dyes in archaeological contexts	97	(3)
3 Finishes	100	(16)
3.1 Terminology	100	(1)
3.2 Finishes and finishing treatments	100	(1)
3.3 Classification of finishes	101	(11)
3.4 Removal of finishes from fabrics required for the support, mounting and display of historical textiles	112	(4)
4 Binding media on printed and painted textiles	116	(12)
4.1 Drying and semi-drying oils	117	(2)
4.2 Animal glue	119	(2)
4.3 Casein	121	(1)
4.4 Egg	121	(1)
4.5 Binding media of tempera paints	121	(1)
4.6 Deterioration of protein binding media	121	(1)
4.7 Starch	122	(1)
4.8 Vegetable gums	123	(1)
4.9 Resins	124	(2)
4.10 Blanching, blooming and chalking of painted surfaces	126	(2)
5 Metal threads	128	(11)
5.1 Morphology of metal threads	128	(1)
5.2 Materials used to make metal threads	128	(1)
5.3 Techniques of manufacturing metal threads	128	(3)
5.4 Characterization of the metals used in the manufacture of metal threads	131	(4)
5.5 Corrosion of metals	135	(4)
6 Case histories	139	(18)
6.1 Treatment of a raincoat designed by Mary Quant, c. 1967	139	(4)
6.2 Colour change induced in a red wool military coat by a cleaning treatment	143	(3)
6.3 Colorimetric measurement of the `Palliotto' of Sixtus IV	146	(2)
6.4 Conservation of a banner painted on both sides	148	(9)
Part 2 Cleaning	157	(118)
7 Soiling on historical textiles	157	(6)
7.1 Classification of soiling	157	(2)
7.2 Adhesion forces between soiling and textiles	159	(4)
8 Solvents and solubility	163	(12)
8.1 Solubility of dirt	163	(1)
8.2 Classification of solvents according to their polarity	164	(1)
8.3 Fractional solubility parameters and the triangle diagram of solvents	165	(3)
8.4 Application of fractional solubility parameters and the triangle diagram in the cleaning of historical textiles	168	(7)
9 Solvent cleaning of historical textiles	175	(10)
9.1 Application of solvent cleaning to historical textiles	175	(1)
9.2 The limitations of solvent cleaning	175	(1)
9.3 Factors influencing the choice of solvent/method	176	(1)
9.4 Flammability of organic solvents	177	(1)
9.5 Toxicity of organic solvents	178	(1)
9.6 Properties of solvents used in solvent cleaning and stain removal	179	(3)
9.7 Methods of solvent cleaning	182	(3)
10 Water	185	(9)
10.1 The purity of water	185	(4)
10.2 Water purification methods	189	(5)
11 Wet cleaning	194	(20)
11.1 Surface-active agents	195	(7)
11.2 Washing process with surface-active agents	202	(4)
11.3 Soil carriers	206	(1)
11.4 Role of temperature in washing	207	(1)
11.5 Role of pH in washing	208	(1)
11.6 Role of lather (foam) in washing	208	(1)
11.7 Biodeterioration of surfactants	208	(1)
11.8 Duration of washing	209	(1)
11.9 Rinsing	209	(1)
11.10 Efficiency of washing	210	(1)
11.11 Composition of washing solutions for historical textiles	210	(4)
12 Cleaning by chemical reactions	214	(23)
12.1 Acid and alkaline solutions	214	(7)
12.2 Sequestering agents	221	(4)
12.3 Oxidizing and reducing agents	225	(8)
12.4 Enzymes	233	(4)
13 Stain removal	237	(5)
14 Cleaning metal threads	242	(7)
14.1 Solubility of corrosion products of metals	242	(1)
14.2 Cleaning methods	242	(5)
14.3 End note	247	(2)
15 Case histories	249	(26)
15.1 The removal of adhesive residues from a tapestry depicting Mercury, Argos and Ericthonius, c. 1700	249	(3)
15.2 The wet cleaning of two nineteenth-century regimental colours (flags)	252	(6)
15.3 The removal of natural rubber adhesive residues left by pressure-sensitive tape used to repair a painted silk banner	258	(7)
15.4 Cleaning of historical textiles with metal threads	265	(10)
Part 3 Treatments other than cleaning	275	(106)
16 Humidification	275	(9)
16.1 Effect of wet treatments on fibres/yarns/fabrics	275	(3)
16.2 Hysteresis	278	(1)
16.3 Potentially damaging effects of humidification	278	(1)
16.4 Humidification systems	279	(3)
16.5 End note	282	(2)
17 Air drying and freeze drying	284	(6)
17.1 Air drying of wet textiles	285	(2)
17.2 Freeze drying of wet textiles	287	(3)
18 Disinfestation and disinfection	290	(14)
18.1 Disinfestation	290	(8)
18.2 Disinfection	298	(1)
18.3 End note	299	(5)
19 Adhesives and consolidants	304	(28)
19.1 Consolidants for fibres	304	(1)
19.2 Adhesives on textiles	305	(1)
19.3 Adhesive techniques in textile conservation	305	(1)
19.4 Expectations of adhesives and consolidants used in textile conservation	306	(1)
19.5 Properties of adhesives and consolidants at the time of application	306	(12)
19.6 Resistance to ageing	318	(6)
19.7 Removal of adhesives/consolidants from textiles	324	(8)
20 Storage and display materials	332	(18)
20.1 The role of activation energy, catalysts and other agents in the process of deterioration	332	(6)
20.2 Selecting storage and display materials	338	(4)
20.3 Methods for isolating potentially harmful materials from artefacts	342	(1)
20.4 Display and storage materials with acceptable properties	342	(1)
20.5 Investigation of storage and display materials	343	(3)
20.6 End note	346	(4)
21 Case histories	350	(31)
21.1 The humidification of a fourth-century AD woollen sock, excavated at Hawara, Egypt	350	(7)
21.2 The conservation of an eighteenth-century silk theatre programme