Jewelry

by Untracht, Oppi

• ISBN13: 9780385041850
• ISBN10: 0385041853
• eBook ISBN(s): 9780307784117
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 1982-08-17
• Publisher: Doubleday
• More Book Details
• Purchase Benefits

Summary

The definitive reference for jewelry makers of all levels of ability--a complete, profusely illustrated guide to design, materials, and techniques, as well as a fascinating exploration of jewelry-making throughout history.

Author Biography

Oppi Untracht's interest in crafts began in the 1930's and developed with Fine Arts degrees from New York University and Columbia. Metalwork, enameling, and jewelry are his special interests, and he has both taught and exhibited internationally in these mediums. As a photo-journalist and scholar, he has researched and recorded the crafts of many lands, particularly those of India and Nepal. He has written numerous articles for graphis, Craft Horizons, American Craft, and Colliers Encyclopedia, and is also the author of the books Enameling on Metal and Metal Techniques for Craftsmen.

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments	p. v
Introduction	p. xv
The Messages of Jewelry: Why We Wear Ornaments	p. 1
The Origins of Jewelry: Satisfying psychic and physical needs	p. 1
The uses and values placed on jewelry	p. 2
The jewel and the jeweler	p. 8
Jewelry Forms in Relation to the Body: Design and construction conditioned by anatomy	p. 13
Basic forms	p. 13
Functional considerations in jewelry concepts	p. 14
Common jewel-supporting systems	p. 17
The Means to Creation: Working Environment, Facilities, and Implements	p. 20
The Workshop: Organizing the working areas	p. 20
The basic work areas	p. 22
General workshop requirements	p. 24
Tools: Instruments of technique	p. 26
The hand: Provider of guidance and power	p. 26
Tool categories according to conceptual work principles	p. 27
Metal, the Jewel's Raw Material: Its Origin, Quality Control, and Variety	p. 30
Metal: Characteristics and classifications	p. 30
Metal characteristics in general	p. 30
Metal groups	p. 30
Gold Mining: Disgorging one of Earth's treasures	p. 31
Quality Control of Precious Metals: Insurance against fraud	p. 35
Making an ingot of precious metal	p. 35
Lowering or raising gold and silver quality	p. 38
The hallmark: British quality control of precious metals	p. 43
The touchstone: Approximating quality	p. 46
Cupellation: A method of purifying and assaying precious metals	p. 48
Titration for silver content	p. 48
Recovery and refinement of precious metal	p. 49
Precipitation and recovery of silver from spent acid solutions	p. 50
Purchasing precious metals	p. 51
Nonferrous Metals Used in Jewelry Making	p. 51
Copper	p. 51
Nickel	p. 53
Tin	p. 54
Zinc	p. 55
Lead	p. 55
Refractory Metals Used in Jewelry	p. 55
Titanium	p. 56
Tantalum and niobium (columbium): Their new use in jewelry	p. 58
Ferrous Metals Used in Jewelry	p. 59
Iron	p. 59
Stainless steel	p. 60
Basic Techniques: Processing Sheet Metal Without Deformation	p. 61
The Rolling Mill: Changing metal dimensions by tangential compression	p. 61
Rolling sheet metal	p. 63
Rolling wire	p. 64
Some rolling techniques	p. 66
Texture and pattern transfer by rolling	p. 67
Rolling defects	p. 68
The care of rolling mills	p. 69
Measuring and Marking: Tools used to achieve dimensional accuracy	p. 69
Measuring tools	p. 69
Marking tools	p. 73
Design Transfer to Metal: Materials and methods	p. 74
Cutting Sheet Metal: Dividing metal from mass by shearing action	p. 75
Shearing	p. 75
Sawing: Severing or contour shaping metal by gradual groove removal	p. 78
The jeweler's saw frame	p. 78
Sawing practice	p. 80
Sawing problems and solutions	p. 82
The hacksaw	p. 84
Cold Bending Sheet Metal: Changing direction without springback	p. 84
Methods of bending	p. 85
Bend types	p. 86
Piercing: Penetrating metal laterally or perpendicularly	p. 89
Piercing by sawing: Enclosed negative shapes	p. 90
Sawline piercing: Kerf graphics	p. 91
Piercing by percussion penetration	p. 91
Piercing by boring	p. 93
Pierced work possibilities	p. 98
Files and Filing: Removing metal by attrition	p. 100
File manufacture	p. 100
General classification of file types	p. 101
File family groups	p. 102
Swiss pattern, escapement, and needle file sectional shapes	p. 104
The uses of files	p. 105
Rotary files, burs, and abrasive points	p. 107
Carbide burs	p. 109
Diamond dental rotary cutting instruments: Shank dimensions	p. 110
Milling: Rotary grinding metal for peripheral or face removal	p. 110
Main types of milling actions	p. 111
Diamond milling	p. 111
Sheet Metal: Forming by Deformation Techniques	p. 114
Sheet Metal Structural Distortion: Three-dimensional form through deformation	p. 114
Doming: Stretch punching a hemisphere	p. 114
Repoussage and Chasing: Free punching relief and intaglio forms	p. 118
Repoussage and chasing work surfaces	p. 119
Punches in general	p. 122
Repousse work and chasing punches	p. 122
The chasing and repousse work hammer	p. 126
Metals used for repoussage	p. 126
The repoussage and chasing process	p. 127
Margaret Laws makes a silver vest of relief-modeled forms	p. 127
Stamping: Impressing, blanking, or embossing by impact pressure	p. 132
Stamping concepts	p. 133
Punch and die stamping by hand methods	p. 134
Stamping with power machines	p. 140
Die stamping with a drop hammer	p. 142
George Paul van Duinwyk makes a stamped pendant-necklace	p. 142
Open forging: Free use of the drop hammer	p. 145
Wire: The Uses of Drawn or Extruded Flexible Filaments	p. 147
Wire: Manipulating line into shape and dimension	p. 147
The drawplate and drawtongs	p. 147
Wire gauges: Wire measurement	p. 149
Wire manufacture by hand	p. 150
Industrial wire drawing	p. 156
Profiled wire made with a drawswage	p. 156
Cutting wire	p. 157
Using wire without changing its sectional shape: Shaping and bending	p. 158
Pliers	p. 158
Spiral making	p. 161
Twisted wire	p. 164
Altering the shape or surface of wire	p. 168
Filigree: A traditional wire technique of captured air	p. 172
Filigree structural types	p. 173
Filigree constructional concepts	p. 174
Basic filigree wire uses	p. 176
Filigree construction	p. 178
Gold filigree: The Oaxaca, Mexico, method	p. 181
Fausto Vargas Ramirez makes a filigree earring	p. 181
Chains: Integrating interlinked, interlooped, flexible systems	p. 184
The link: The chain unit	p. 184
General chain types	p. 184
Making plain link chain	p. 189
Commercial chain	p. 190
Single loop-in-loop chain making	p. 192
Multiple loop-in-loop chain making	p. 193
Chuck Evans shows the technique of interlocking deformed links	p. 193
Chain couplings	p. 196
Chain Mail: A unit system of intertextured construction	p. 196
Chain mail construction	p. 196
Mail and plates	p. 199
Making chain mail links and plates	p. 200
David LaPlantz makes a chain mail necklace	p. 200
Wire and Strip in Interworked Processes: Using concepts employed with fibrous materials	p. 204
Wire suitability to process	p. 205
Metal qualities in relation to interworked processes	p. 205
Classification of fibercraft techniques	p. 205
Finger-worked processes	p. 206
Hand-with-hand-tool-worked processes	p. 228
Hand- or mechanism-worked weaving processes	p. 233
Forging: Fabrication by percussion to move metal mass	p. 236
Forging and heat treating tool steels	p. 236
Tools used in the forging process	p. 240
Basic forging operations	p. 248
Methods of joining forged parts	p. 253
Finishing a forged metal surface	p. 254
Forging in action	p. 255
Albert Paley makes a forged brooch	p. 255
Tubing: The Uses of Fistular Forms	p. 259
The Tube: Hollow, uniform, seamless, or seamed	p. 259
Seamless tube manufacture by extrusion	p. 259
The uses of tubing in jewelry making	p. 260
Drawing seamed tubing	p. 262
Seamed and seamless tube forming with core wire and mandrels	p. 263
Reshaping the sectional form of seamless tubing	p. 264
Richard Mawdsley draws round tubing to a hexagonal section	p. 264
Tube shaping	p. 265
Ornamental tube use in jewelry	p. 270
Richard Mawdsley constructs a brooch mainly with tubing	p. 270
Tapered Tubing: Transmuting flat sheet into coniforms	p. 277
Tapered tube fabrication	p. 277
Marcia Lewis makes a neckpiece using tapered tubing	p. 277
Cores for shaping large-diameter tubes	p. 281
Surface Ornament Without Heat: Metal Removal Techniques	p. 283
Engraving: Forward-pressure linear metal removal	p. 283
The uses of engraving on jewelry	p. 284
Engraving tools and accessories	p. 285
Preparing the workpiece for engraving	p. 293
Holding and using a graver	p. 294
Engraving practice	p. 298
Ilse Immich engraves a silver pendant	p. 298
Scoring: Backward-pressure linear metal removal	p. 299
Decorative and functional purposes of scored lines	p. 299
Tools for scoring	p. 299
Decorative scoring of flat surfaces	p. 300
Functional scoring	p. 301
Chip Carving: Metal volume removal from mass with chisels	p. 302
Historic chip carving: Kerbschnitt	p. 302
Contemporary chip carving	p. 302
Chip carving with chisels	p. 303
Gene Pijanowski investigates chisel-cut textures	p. 303
Metal Inlay: Excavation succeeded by insertion techniques	p. 304
Japanese inlay work (hon zogan)	p. 304
Metals used for inlay	p. 305
Pitch: The traditional ground metal holding surface	p. 305
The inlay tools	p. 306
Chisels in general	p. 306
The Japanese inlay process	p. 308
Hiroko Sato Pijanowski inlays a pendant	p. 308
Variations of inlay	p. 313
The Acid Etching of Metal: Selective metal removal by chemical action	p. 320
The uses of etching acids and processes	p. 320
Materials used in the metal etching process	p. 321
The etching process	p. 321
Mary Ann Scherr relief etches a pendant	p. 321
Electrochemical anodic etching	p. 326
Stencil etching metal sheet using light-sensitized gelatin	p. 327
Photomechanical one- or two-surface etch piercing	p. 328
Halftone photoetching on metal: Graduated tone photoreproduction	p. 334
Surface Ornament with Heat: Metal Fusion Techniques	p. 336
Reticulation: Samorodok, or the self-born technique of fusion texturing	p. 336
Metals used for reticulation	p. 337
The theory of reticulation	p. 337
Reticulating silver alloy	p. 337
Reticulating sheet metal	p. 338
Gene Pijanowski explores reticulation possibilities	p. 338
Variations in reticulated effects	p. 339
Reticulating preformed shapes	p. 340
Fusing Metal: Using heat to plastically form metal	p. 341
Shot making: Forming a metal ball by total fusion	p. 341
Fusion forming a ball at a wire end	p. 343
Fusing wire, sheet, and waste metal forms	p. 344
Fused textures	p. 346
Micro-welding	p. 346
Hot modeling: Tool shaping fused metal	p. 346
Rita Greer hot models an owl brooch	p. 346
Hot pressure molding small forms	p. 348
Fusion inlay	p. 348
Granulation: Fusion weld bonding ornamental units	p. 348
The fusion weld bond: Theory	p. 348
Joining granule to base: Chemical and thermal action on copper and binder	p. 350
Basic granule arrangement and growth pattern systems	p. 352
Gold granulation: Practice	p. 359
John Paul Miller illustrates one granulation method while making a pendant/brooch	p. 359
Metal Lamination Fabrication: Bonding and patterning multi-metal composites	p. 363
Damask steel: Pattern in cast crucible steel or fabricated laminates	p. 363
Basic lamination fabrication systems: Structural concepts used for pattern development	p. 365
Postlamination treatments	p. 371
Mokume Gane: A Japanese fusion-layered patterned laminate	p. 372
The metals used for a nonferrous mokume laminate	p. 372
Creating a nonferrous mokume gane: Horizontal lamination	p. 373
Preparing a nonferrous mokume laminate: Wet bonding by solder fusion	p. 373
Preparing a nonferrous mokume laminate: Diffusion weld bonding method	p. 375
Creating a mokume face pattern: Horizontal lamination	p. 377
Mokume parquetry: Mosaic lamination	p. 379
Spiral mokume: Vertical strip lamination	p. 379
Mokume wire laminates: Straight and twist lamination	p. 381
Miscellaneous processing of finished mokume laminates	p. 381
Quality stamping of laminates	p. 382
Niello: A fusion-inlaid contrast alloy	p. 382
The niello composition	p. 382
Preparing the parent metal for niello	p. 383
Preparing the niello alloy: The first melt of the compound	p. 384
Applying the niello powder	p. 385
Niello fusion: The second melt of the compound	p. 385
Finishing the nielloed surface	p. 386
Repairing nielloed work: The third melt of the compound	p. 387
Fabrication: Building Fragments Into Units	p. 388
Soldering: Joining fabricated parts by intermediary metal alloy fusion	p. 388
Solders for precious metals and their alloys	p. 388
Basic types of joints	p. 396
Soldering jigs	p. 398
Refractory materials used for jigs and soldering surfaces	p. 401
Fluxes used for silver or hard soldering	p. 403
Presoldering operations: General recommendations	p. 405
Burning fuels: The energy source of heat	p. 407
The soldering operation	p. 414
The three stages of a soldering cycle	p. 414
Postsoldering operations	p. 417
Soft soldering	p. 422
Screws, Bolts and Nuts, and Screw Joints: Mechanical cold fabrication by torsion-pressure holding systems	p. 424
Screws	p. 424
Bolts	p. 427
Nuts	p. 427
Construction	p. 427
Making a screw or bolt	p. 427
Rivets and Riveting: A cold percussion closed pressure joining system	p. 431
Rivet conditions used in jewelry	p. 431
Rivet head shapes	p. 433
Rivet setting	p. 434
Nilda C. Fernandez Getty utilizes rivets on a pendant	p. 434
The Lathe and Machined Jewelry: Rotational fabrication systems	p. 437
The primitive manually powered lathe	p. 438
Basic contemporary lathe categories	p. 439
Lathe types	p. 439
Lubrication of the lathe	p. 440
Workpiece materials	p. 441
Manual tooling and manual lathe tools	p. 444
Mechanical tooling and mechanical lathe tools	p. 445
Safety precautions	p. 447
Primary lathe operations: External cuts or feeds	p. 448
Secondary lathe operations	p. 449
Machining jewelry	p. 449
Gary S. Griffin shows the use of fixed tool lathe techniques	p. 449
Plastics in Jewelry: Fabrication using synthetic solids and liquids	p. 463
Basic plastic types: Thermoplastics and thermosetting plastics	p. 463
Manufacture of plastics	p. 464
Plastics in solid form used in jewelry	p. 465
David Keens fabricates a brooch using plastics shaped by various methods	p. 465
Laminating sheet plastics	p. 472
Plastics in liquid resin form	p. 474
Casting polyester resin	p. 477
Rodolfo R. Azaro uses a silicone rubber mold	p. 477
Casting: Methods of Giving Form to Molten Metal	p. 482
Gravity Pour Casting: Exploiting Earth's centripetal force	p. 482
The development of casting technology	p. 482
Gravity pouring metal	p. 482
Cuttlebone casting: Creating the mold cavity by pressure	p. 484
Direct carving of a cuttlebone mold cavity	p. 487
Alice Shannon cuttlebone casts a pendant	p. 487
Lost Wax Casting: Replacing a mold-voided temporary model with metal	p. 490
Lost wax investment casting	p. 490
Wax composition for investment casting	p. 492
Types of wax	p. 493
Forms of wax	p. 494
Non-wax model materials	p. 496
Wax-manipulating tools and materials	p. 496
Preparing the wax model	p. 499
Wax-in-wax inlay	p. 505
Thomas Gentille forms a rigid bracelet exploiting wax characteristics	p. 505
Preparing a wax model for a stone setting	p. 507
Centrifugal Casting: Flinging molten metal from a rotating center outward into a single-use investment plaster mold	p. 510
Spruing the wax model	p. 511
Determining the amount of metal needed for a casting	p. 512
Mounting the model on the pouring gate former	p. 512
Painting the model with a wetting agent	p. 514
The investment plaster composition	p. 515
The burnout: Losing or eliminating the wax	p. 518
The centrifugal casting hand sling	p. 520
The centrifugal machine	p. 521
Preparing the casting metal	p. 523
Casting metal on the centrifuge	p. 525
The shakeout: Freeing the casting from the investment	p. 525
Cleaning the casting: Fettling	p. 526
Finishing the casting	p. 527
Porosity: A major casting fault and its causes	p. 527
Centrifugal casting: Practice	p. 528
Lynda Watson-Abbott uses an intaglio clay mold to form a wax relief model for casting	p. 528
Casting metal on metal: Ganga-Jumna	p. 532
Pressure casting	p. 532
Pressure and vacuum casting	p. 533
Vacuum assist casting	p. 533
Rubber Mold Wax Injection: Duplicating a master model with a reusable flexible mold	p. 536
Making the master model	p. 536
Making a two-part mold with a separator	p. 537
Making a one-piece rubber mold without a separator	p. 540
Injection waxes	p. 541
The wax injector machine	p. 541
Making a wax-injected replica	p. 542
Cold rubber mold making	p. 544
Using transparent plastic mold making compounds	p. 544
Making a rubber mold for use in wax injection	p. 544
Bjorn Weckstrom designed production brooch	p. 544
Natural Materials in Jewelry: Using Nature's Valued Nonmetals	p. 551
Organic Materials Used in Jewelry: Employing products of formerly living organisms	p. 551
Ivory	p. 551
Bone	p. 557
Teeth	p. 558
Tortoiseshell and horn	p. 558
Claws	p. 560
Shell cameos	p. 560
Coral	p. 561
Amber	p. 562
Mother of pearl: Nacre	p. 563
Pearls	p. 564
Drilling and mounting pearls	p. 570
Methods used by K. Mikimoto and Co. Ltd., Tokyo, Japan	p. 570
Feathers in jewelry	p. 573
Stones and their Setting: Inorganic Minerals Employed in Jewelry	p. 578
Stones: Selected fragments of terrestrial bounty	p. 578
Precious, semiprecious, and synthetic stones	p. 578
The lapidary art: Stone shaping and polishing	p. 585
Tumbling: Mechanical shaping and polishing stones	p. 585
Gemstone carving and engraving: The glyptic art	p. 590
Stone mosaics in jewelry	p. 592
Cabochon-cut stones	p. 596
Bezel setting a cabochon stone	p. 603
Faceted stones	p. 604
Composite stones	p. 611
Gemstone substitutes	p. 612
Setting a faceted stone	p. 612
Metal Finishing: Achieving Desired Surface Appearance	p. 633
Metal Finishing Techniques: Manual and mechanical	p. 633
Types of soil on metals	p. 633
Cleaning solution finishing techniques	p. 633
Hand and mechanical finishing techniques	p. 634
Hand polishing and buffing	p. 640
Mechanical finishing of metal surfaces	p. 642
Abrasives	p. 651
Polishing and buffing compositions	p. 652
Types of finish on metals	p. 654
Polishing and buffing wheels in action	p. 655
Flexible shaft equipment and accessories	p. 658
Respirators: Protection against particle and gas inhalation	p. 660
Metallic Coating Techniques: Changing the Base Metal's Surface Appearance	p. 662
Cold Gilding with Metal Leaf: Mechanical application of precious metals	p. 662
Leaf metal	p. 662
Gold leaf production	p. 663
Traditional techniques as modified today	p. 663
Mechanical surface gilding	p. 665
Mercury Amalgam Gilding: Depositing precious metal by heat	p. 666
Mercury	p. 666
Amalgams	p. 666
Preparing a gold-mercury amalgam for gilding	p. 667
Walter Soellner devises a closed venting system	p. 667
Shakudo: A favored Japanese copper alloy	p. 668
Kinkeshi: A Japanese amalgam gilding method	p. 669
Mitsuko Kambe Soellner parcel gilds a shakudo pendant	p. 669
Gilding puddle-bonded solder on steel	p. 672
Walter Soellner parcel gilds a steel belt buckle	p. 672
Techniques in the use of precious metal amalgams	p. 674
Metallic Buildup: Electrolytic Molecular Creation of Surface and Form	p. 677
Electroplating: Depositing metals through electrolytic mediums	p. 677
Reasons for electroplating	p. 677
Principal properties of plated coatings	p. 678
Factors influencing electroplated results	p. 679
Immersion or "dip" plating	p. 681
Brush plating	p. 682
Electroplating and electroforming equipment and conditions	p. 682
A typical cyanide gold plating process cycle	p. 688
Plating formulas	p. 688
Electroforming: Synthesizing form and texture by electrochemistry	p. 691
Creating the mandrel: Preliminary work prior to electroforming	p. 692
Preparing mandrels for electroforming	p. 696
The electroforming process	p. 698
Acrylic autoclave casting and electroforming a brooch	p. 701
Stanley Lechtzin creatively uses two industrial processes	p. 701
Photoelectroforming: Using light to impart an image to metal and to create form	p. 708
The photoelectroforming process sequence	p. 708
Electroplating using the photoresist stencil	p. 712
Photoelectroforming: Stripped or adhesive electroforms	p. 712
Coloring Metals: Achieving Patinas Through Heat, Chemicals, and Electrolysis	p. 714
Metal Coloring: Broadening the basic color range of metals	p. 714
Coloring processes	p. 715
Postcoloring treatments	p. 719
Anodizing Metals: Electrochemical conversion coating and dye coloring	p. 720
Preanodizing treatment and metal surface preparation	p. 720
Anodizing aluminum: Preparing the oxide coating	p. 721
Dye coloring anodized aluminum objects	p. 722
Titanium Coloring: Heat and anodic oxidizing methods	p. 723
Titanium surface preparation before coloring	p. 724
Titanium direct heat treatment coloring	p. 726
Titanium overall anodizing: Coloring by electrochemical immersion	p. 727
Titanium localized anodizing: Selective area coloring	p. 728
Maintenance and protective coatings on titanium oxide films	p. 730
Standard Weights, Measures, and Tables	p. 731
Abbreviations Used in Weights, Measures, and Other Areas	p. 730
Linear Measurements	p. 731
Length	p. 731
Thickness	p. 738
Area or surface	p. 743
Measures of Weight and Mass	p. 744
Weight Measurements	p. 744
Conversions of weight and mass	p. 747
Capacity: Liquids	p. 752
Capacity measurements	p. 752
Conversions of liquid measures of capacity	p. 752
Temperature	p. 753
Time and Speed	p. 756
Time measurements	p. 756
Speed measurements	p. 756
Glossaries	p. 757
Visual Glossary: Geometric and morphic shapes, forms, and concepts	p. 757
Glossary: Forms of Jewelry	p. 774
Glossary: Jewelry Findings	p. 779
Soldering jewelry findings	p. 785
The hinge	p. 788
The spring	p. 790
Bibliographies	p. 791
Historic Jewelry	p. 791
Jewelry Technology	p. 793
Lapidary; Mineralogy; and Gemology	p. 795
Exhibition Catalogs and Handbooks on Jewelry	p. 796
Periodicals: Jewelry	p. 797
Periodicals: Lapidary	p. 798
Sources of Tools, Supplies, and Services	p. 799
United States of America	p. 799
United Kingdom	p. 805
Index	p. 808
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