Local Flavors : Cooking and Eating from America's Farmers' Markets

by MADISON, DEBORAH

• ISBN13: 9780767903493
• ISBN10: 0767903498
• eBook ISBN(s): 9780307885654
• Edition: 1st
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2002-06-01
• Publisher: Broadway
• More Book Details
• Purchase Benefits

Summary

InLocal Flavors, bestselling cookbook author Deborah Madison takes readers along as she explores farmers' markets across the country, sharing stories, recipes, and dozens of market-inspired menus. Her portraits of markets from Maine to Hawaii showcase the bounty of America's family farms and reveal the sheer pleasure to be found in shopping for and cooking with local foods. Deborah Madison follows the seasons in her cross-country journey, beginning with the first tender greens of spring and ending with those foods that keep. Recipes such as Chard and Cilantro Soup with Noodle Nests and Lamb's-Quarters with Sonoma Teleme Cheese launch the market season, followed by such dishes as an Elixir of Fresh Peas or a Radish Sandwich. Recipes for Whole Little Cauliflowers with Crispy Breadcrumbs and White Beans with Black Kale and Savoy Cabbage illustrate the range of the robust crucifers, while herbs and alliums provide the inspiration for a lively Herb Salad, tisanes, and Sweet and Sour Onions with Dried Pluots and Rosemary. Deborah Madison challenges the conventional view of what's seasonal. A Young Root Vegetable Braise celebrates that early crop of delicate roots, while Braised Root Vegetables with Black Lentils and Red Wine Sauce offers an elegant centerpiece dish for the heartier roots of winter. Superlative fresh eggs, along with handmade cheese, are featured players at the markets everywhere, and here they appear in such simple dishes as Fried Eggs with Sizzling Vinegar and Warm Ricotta Custard featuring fresh whole-milk ricotta. Because organically raised poultry and meats have an increasingly important presence in our farmers' markets, they are included, too, paired with other market produce that highlights their flavors, as in Roast Chicken with Herbs Under the Skin. Late summer corn and beans inspire Corn Fritters with Aged Cheddar and Arugula and Shelly Beans with Pasta and Sage. When markets are filled with squashes and melons, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, Deborah Madison shows us that they're perfect ingredients for simple, vibrant dishes, such as Braised Farmers' Long Eggplant Stuffed with Garlic or Tropical Melon Soup with Coconut Milk. For the happily overwhelmed cook, Platter Salads suggest how to go ahead and useallof the market's bounty. Fruits, another vital part of farmers' markets, are generously featured. Huckleberries, unusual grapes, and figs; stone fruits like plums and peaches; heirloom apples, persimmons; winter citrus and subtropical fruits are all here. Fig Tart with Orange Flower Custard; Peach Shortcake on Ginger Biscuits; a Rustic Tart of Quinces, Apples, and Pears; and a Passion Fruit and Pineapple Compote are just a few of the luscious desserts. And, because the market features more than fresh foods of the moment, recipes based on dried fruits, oils, vinegars, preserves, and other long-keeping foods help the reader continue eating locally once the market season has ended. By going behind the scenes to speak with the farmers and producers, Deborah Madison connects readers directly with the people who grow their food. Full-color photographs of gorgeous produce, mouthwatering dishes, and evocative scenes from the markets will entice every reader to cook from the farmers' market as often as possible.

Author Biography

<b>Deborah Madison</b> is the author of <i>Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone </i>and<i> The Savory Way</i>, both of which were named the Julia Child Cookook of the Year by the International Association of Culinary Professionals<i>. Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone </i>also received a James Beard Award, and <i>This Can’t Be Tofu! </i>was nominated for a Beard award as well. <i>The Greens Cookbook</i>, now a classic, was her first book. A contributor to many magazines, among <i>them Taste, Fine Cooking, Gourmet,</i> and <i>Garden Design,</i> Deborah Madison was awarded the M.F.K. Fisher Mid-Career Award from Les Dames D’Escoffier in 1994. She is a member of Slow Food and a board member and former market manager of the Santa Fe Area Farmers’ Market. She lives in Santa

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments	ix
Introduction	xiii
Greens Wild and Domestic	1	(32)
A Cool-Weather Miscellany	33	(24)
Herbs and Alliums	57	(28)
Cabbages, Kale, and Other Crucifers	85	(24)
Corn and Beans	109	(30)
Vining Fruits and Vegetables	139	(28)
The Vegetable Fruits of Summer: Eggplants, Tomatoes, and Peppers	167	(32)
Roots and Tubers	199	(28)
Eggs and Cheese at the Market	227	(26)
Small Tender Fruits: Berries, Grapes, and Figs	253	(26)
Stone Fruits: The Warm Heart of Summer	279	(26)
Mid-to Late-Season Fruits: Pomes and Persimmons	305	(30)
Winter Fruits: Citrus and Subtropicals	335	(26)
The Foods That Keep	361	(24)
Basics	385	(8)
Epilogue: Time Passing at the Market	393	(3)
Resources	396	(4)
Index	400

Excerpts

Greens Wild and Domestic

It's spring, and farmers' markets across the country are beginning to open. Greens are the vegetables that many will start out with. They're what you can count on finding early in the season. And depending on where you live, greens may flourish throughout the duration of the market, or they may disappear as soon as some real heat comes on. Greens like it cool, and some even like it cold. Salad greens are a huge challenge in Phoenix past March, which is just when they're looking great in Santa Monica. They might be diminishing in Sacramento by about June, but in Santa Fe or Londonderry, Vermont, they're with us from start to finish.

A key sign that it's spring isn't only that greens are available but that they have an irrepressible quality. They practically glow. I've picked up bunches of kale that squeak with vitality, spinach and chard that bounce with life. The arugula is nutty, not bitter; chicories have a sweet edge from the last frost of the season. Green potherbs, like sorrel, nettes, and wild spinach, are tender and delicate, and the deep reds of the red lettuces, like Merlot, haven't lost their luster as long as there are those nightly temperature dips. This is also when you might find miner's lettuce, chickweed, and other edible weeds, which, if you haven't tried them, make exciting additions to salads.

This green glory will fade as the season progresses into labored production, when hot days and nights keep plants churning and growing overtime. But for now, everything is leafy at its very best. This, in fact, is one of the prime times for big green salads, now and the fall. Come midsummer, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers will better fill that role.


The Simplest Tender Greens serves 2 to 4

If your greens are tender and not too voluminous for your pan, simply wilt them in a skillet with the water that clings to their leaves after washing, or steam them. Although boiling is usually considered a less nutritious way of cooking vegetables, the more quickly they cook, the fewer nutrients they lose, and tender greens will spend only the briefest time in a big pot of boiling water.

These methods are especially well suited to those quick-cooking greens, such as spinach, young chard, and wild spinach, although tougher greens, like kale, can also be treated this way if simply cooked a bit longer. (For the more assertive greens, like mustard, see the next recipe.) In general, 2 or 3 people can easily consume a pound of greens, for they shrink to nearly nothing.

1 to 2 pounds greens, coarse stems removed
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
olive oil or butter
lemon wedges or vinegar

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. While it's heating, wash the greens.
2. Add salt to taste to the water, then plunge the greens in all at once.
Cook just until they're tender, then scoop them into a colander. Leave them
to drain from 2 to 5.
3. Toss the greens with olive oil or butter to taste and season with salt and
pepper. Put them in a bowl or on a platter and serve with lemon wedges or
vinegar. A bit of acid always benefits greens.

Cooking Greens In the Pan: Put greens that have been washed and not dried
in a wide skillet and sprinkle with salt. Cook over high heat until tender from
3 to 5 minutes turning them occasionally with tongs. Lift them out of the pan,
leaving any liquid behind. Toss with butter or oil, taste for salt, season with
pepper, and serve.

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Excerpted from Local Flavors: Cooking and Eating from America's Farmers' Markets by Deborah Madison
All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.