Milady's Standard Textbook of Cosmetology

by Publishing Company Miladys

• ISBN13: 9781562532062
• ISBN10: 1562532065
• Edition: 1st
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 1994-03-17
• Publisher: Cengage Learning

Summary

When the subject is cosmetology education, one name echoes around the globe, Milady's Standard Textbook of Cosmetology-used in 48 countries and developed in 5 languages, Milady's Standard is recognized as the undisputed industry leader and primary source of the most current and comprehensive information available for cosmetology students. This revised edition is designed to provide students with the knowledge and skills required to pass state licensing exams and to provide professional cosmetology services. Drawing on the experience of many industry leaders, educators, and artists, Milady's Standard gives students a thorough understanding of both the theory and practice of all pertinent cosmetology subjects.

Table of Contents

Preface	xii
To the Student	xii
To the Instructor	xii
For the Student	xiii
For the Instructor	xv
For Reference	xvi
Acknowledgments	xviii
Introduction The World of Cosmetology	2	(1)
Makeup Artist	2	(1)
Skin Care Specialist/Esthetician	3	(1)
Cosmetic Chemist	3	(1)
Publishing	4	(1)
Haircolorist	5	(1)
Salon Owner	5	(1)
Retail Specialist	6	(1)
Competition Champion	6	(1)
Educational Specialist	7	(3)
Your Professional Image
Introduction	10	(1)
Your Personal and Professional Health	10	(3)
Rest	10	(1)
Exercise	10	(1)
Relaxation	10	(1)
Nutrition	10	(1)
Personal Hygiene	11	(1)
Personal Grooming	11	(1)
Care of the Feet	12	(1)
Healthy Lifestyle	13	(1)
Physical Presentation	13	(4)
Good Posture	13	(1)
Physical Presentation on the Job	14	(2)
Correct Sitting Technique	16	(1)
Personality	17	(1)
Desirable Qualities for Effective Client Relations	17	(1)
Effective Communication	18	(1)
Human Relations and Your Professional Attitude	18	(2)
To Be Successful	20	(1)
Professional Ethics	21	(3)
Bacteriology
Introduction	24	(1)
Bacteriology	24	(8)
Types of Bacteria	25	(1)
Pronunciations of Terms Relating to Pathogenic Bacteria	26	(1)
Classifications of Pathogenic Bacteria	26	(1)
Bacterial Growth and Reproduction	27	(1)
Bacterial Infections	28	(1)
Other Infectious Agents	29	(1)
Immunity	29	(1)
Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome (AIDS)	30	(2)
Decontamination and Infection Control
Introduction	32	(1)
Prevention and Control	32	(6)
Contamination	32	(1)
Decontamination	32	(1)
Sterilization	33	(1)
Sanitation	33	(2)
Antiseptics	35	(1)
Disinfection	35	(1)
Read Before Using	35	(1)
Important Information	35	(1)
OSHA	36	(1)
Hospital Level Disinfectants	36	(1)
Proper Use of Disinfectants	37	(1)
Types of Disinfectants	38	(3)
Quats	38	(1)
Phenols	39	(1)
Alcohol, Bleach, and Commercial Cleaners	39	(1)
Ultrasonic Cleaners	40	(1)
Disinfectant Safety	40	(1)
Other Surfaces	41	(1)
Proper Storage of Implements	41	(1)
Electric or Bead ``Sterilizers''	41	(1)
Universal Sanitation	41	(3)
Your Professional Responsibility	42	(2)
Properties of the Scalp and Hair
Introduction	44	(1)
Hair	44	(8)
Composition of the Hair	45	(1)
Divisions of the Hair	45	(2)
Hair Shapes	47	(1)
Layers of the Hair	48	(1)
Hair Distribution	48	(1)
Hair Growth	49	(10)
Life and Density of the Hair	59
Natural Replacement of the Hair	50	(1)
Color of the Hair	50	(2)
Hair Analysis	52	(2)
Condition of the Hair	52	(1)
Qualities of the Hair	52	(2)
Disorders of the Hair	54	(1)
Canities	54	(1)
Ringed Hair	54	(1)
Hypertichosis	54	(1)
Trichoptilosis	54	(1)
Trichorrhexis Nodosa	54	(1)
Monilethrix	54	(1)
Fragilitas Crinium	55	(1)
Scalp Care	55	(3)
Scalp Manipulations	55	(3)
Disorders of the Scalp	58	(10)
Dandruff	58	(2)
Alopecia	60	(2)
Vegetable Parasitic Infections	62	(1)
Animal Parasitic Infections	62	(1)
Staphylococci Infections	63	(1)
General Hair and Scalp Treatments	64	(4)
Draping
Introduction	68	(6)
Draping for Wet Hair Services	68	(1)
Draping for Chemical Services	69	(1)
Draping for Dry Hair Services	70	(4)
Shampooing, Rinsing, and Conditioning
Introduction	74	(10)
Water	74	(1)
Selecting the Correct Shampoo	75	(1)
Required Materials and Implements	75	(1)
Brushing	75	(1)
Shampoo Procedure	76	(2)
Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair	78	(1)
Types of Shampoos	79	(2)
Hair Rinses	81	(3)
Haircutting
Introduction	84	(18)
Implements Used in Haircutting	84	(2)
Sectioning for Haircutting	86	(1)
Holding Hair Shaping Implements	87	(1)
Hair Thinning	88	(2)
Haircutting with Scissors	90	(3)
Shingling	93	(1)
Use of Clippers on the Neckline	94	(1)
Using the Razor	94	(4)
Learn to Handle Children	98	(1)
Cutting Overly Curly Hair	98	(4)
Finger Waving
Introduction	102	(1)
Preparation	102	(1)
Finger Waving Lotion	102	(1)
Application of Lotion	102	(1)
Horizontal Finger Waving	103	(3)
Shaping the Top Area	103	(2)
Left Side of the Head	105	(1)
Alternate Method of Finger Waving	106	(1)
Vertical Finger Waving	107	(1)
Shadow Wave	108	(1)
Reminders and Hints on Finger Waving	108	(4)
Wet Hairstyling
Introduction	112	(1)
Hairstyling Basics	112	(35)
Removing Tangles from Hair	112	(1)
Making a Part	113	(1)
Pin Curls	114	(4)
Pin Curl Foundations or Bases	118	(2)
Pin Curl Techniques	120	(5)
Anchoring Pin Curls	125	(1)
Effects of Pin Curls	126	(4)
Cascade or Stand Up Curls	130	(1)
Semi-Stand Up Curls	131	(1)
Roller Curls	132	(3)
Barrel Curls	135	(7)
Comb-Out Techniques	142	(2)
Braiding	144	(3)
Artistry in Hairstyling	147	(17)
Facial Types	147	(9)
Styling for People Who Wear Glasses	156	(3)
Hair Partings	159	(5)
Thermal Hairstyling
Introduction to Thermal Waving and Curling	164	(16)
Thermal Irons	164	(3)
Thermal Waving with Conventional Thermal (Marcel) Irons	167	(2)
Thermal Curling with Electric Thermal Irons	169	(2)
Thermal Irons Curling Methods	171	(5)
Volume Thermal Iron Curls	176	(1)
Finished Thermal Curl Settings	177	(1)
Styling the Hair After a Thermal Curl or Wave	178	(1)
Safety Measures	178	(2)
Blow-Dry Styling	180	(3)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials	180	(1)
The Blow-Dryer	180	(1)
Combs and Brushes	180	(2)
Cosmetics Used in Blow-Dry Styling	182	(1)
Blow Curling with Round Brush	182	(1)
Reminders and Hints on Blow-Dry Styling	183	(2)
Blow-Drying the Hair	183	(1)
Brushes and Combs	184	(1)
Blow-Dryer	184	(1)
Blow-Drying Techniques	184	(1)
Air Waving	185	(3)
Shaping Hair with Comb	185	(1)
Safety Precautions	186	(2)
Permanent Waving
Introduction	188	(1)
History of Permanent Waving	188	(2)
The Machine Age of Permanent Waving	188	(1)
The First Machineless Perm	189	(1)
Cold Waves	189	(1)
Neutral and Acid-Balanced Perms	189	(1)
Modern Perm Chemistry	190	(2)
Alkaline Perms	190	(1)
Acid-Balanced Perms	191	(1)
The Chemistry of Neutralizers	192	(1)
Hair Structure and Perming	192	(21)
Physical Structure of Hair	192	(1)
Chemical Composition of Hair	193	(1)
Choosing the Right Perming Technique	194	(2)
Pre-Perm Analysis	196	(3)
Perm Selection	199	(1)
Pre-Perm Shampooing	200	(1)
Pre-Perm Cutting or Shaping	200	(1)
Perm Rods	201	(1)
Sectioning and Parting	202	(1)
Wrapping Patterns	203	(3)
Wrapping the Hair	206	(4)
Preliminary Test Curls	210	(3)
Perming Techniques	213	(5)
Applying Waving Lotion	214	(2)
Neutralizing	216	(1)
Ten Pointers for a Perfect Perm	217	(1)
Cleanup	217	(1)
Special Perming Techniques	218	(8)
Directional Wrapping	218	(2)
Body Waves	220	(1)
Partial Perming	221	(1)
Perms for Men	221	(1)
Heated Clamp Method	221	(1)
Special Situations	222	(4)
Haircoloring
Introduction	226	(4)
Reasons Clients Color Their Hair	227	(1)
Typical Clients	227	(1)
The Colorist's Role in Client Communication	228	(2)
Haircolor Consultation	230	(23)
Setting the Stage: The Proper Environment	230	(2)
Strand Test to Confirm Color Selection	232	(1)
Predisposition Test	233	(2)
Client Record Card	235	(1)
Release Statement	235	(1)
Analyzing the Client's Hair Physiology	235	(13)
Using Color Keys to Find the Most Flattering Color for the Client	248	(5)
Color Theory	253	(6)
The Law of Color	253	(5)
Creating Natural-Looking Haircolor Using Artificial Pigments	258	(1)
Classifications of Haircolor	259	(10)
Temporary Haircoloring	259	(3)
Traditional Semi-Permanent Haircoloring	262	(6)
Deposit-Only Haircolor	268	(1)
Permanent Haircolor	269	(31)
Permanent Haircolor Types	269	(4)
Hydrogen Peroxide Developers	273	(3)
Hair Lightening	276	(12)
Special Effects Highlighting	288	(2)
Composition of Permanent Haircolors	290	(10)
Special Problems in Haircolor/Corrective Coloring	300	(20)
Damaged Hair	300	(1)
Fillers	301	(1)
Reds Fading	302	(1)
Correcting Brassiness and Other Unwanted Tones in the Hair	303	(1)
Tint Removal	304	(2)
Tint Back to Natural Hair Color	306	(1)
Gray Hair Challenges and Solutions	307	(1)
Formulating for Gray Hair	308	(2)
Rules for Effective Color Correction	310	(1)
Haircoloring Safety Precautions	310	(1)
Haircoloring Glossary	311	(9)
Chemical Hair Relaxing and Soft Curl Permanent
Introduction	320	(1)
Chemical Hair Relaxing Products	320	(1)
Chemical Hair Relaxers	320	(1)
Neutralizer	320	(1)
Base and ``No Base'' Formulas	321	(1)
Steps in Chemical Hair Relaxing	321	(1)
Processing	321	(1)
Neutralizing	321	(1)
Conditioning	321	(1)
Recommended Strength of Relaxer	322	(1)
Analysis of Client's Hair	322	(2)
Client's Hair History	322	(1)
Scalp Examination	323	(1)
Strand Tests	323	(1)
Chemical Hair Relaxing Process (With Sodium Hydroxide)	324	(6)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials	324	(1)
Preparation	324	(1)
Procedure	325	(1)
Applying the Conditioner-Filler	325	(1)
Applying the Relaxer	326	(1)
Comb Method	326	(1)
Brush or Finger Method	327	(1)
Periodic Strand Testing	327	(1)
Rinsing Out the Relaxer	327	(1)
Shampooing/Neutralizing	327	(1)
Applying the Conditioner	328	(1)
Hot Thermal Irons	329	(1)
Sodium Hydroxide Retouch	330	(1)
Chemical Hair Relaxing Process (With Ammonium Thioglycolate)	330	(1)
Thio Retouch	331	(1)
Other Relaxers	331	(1)
Chemical Blow Out	331	(1)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials	331	(1)
Procedure	331	(1)
Review of Safety Precautions	332	(1)
Soft Curl Permanent	333	(4)
Implements and Materials	334	(1)
Procedure	334	(3)
Aftercare	337	(1)
Review of Safety Precautions	337	(3)
Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing)
Introduction	340	(1)
Analysis of Hair and Scalp	340	(8)
Hair Texture	341	(1)
Scalp Condition	342	(1)
Record Card	342	(1)
Conditioning Treatments	342	(1)
Pressing Combs	342	(2)
Pressing Oil or Cream	344	(1)
Hair Sectioning	344	(1)
Soft Pressing Procedure for Normal Curly Hair	344	(2)
Hard Press	346	(1)
Touch-Ups	347	(1)
Safety Precautions	347	(1)
Release Statement	347	(1)
Reminders and Hints on Soft Pressing	348	(1)
Special Problems	348	(4)
Pressing Fine Hair	348	(1)
Pressing Short, Fine Hair	348	(1)
Pressing Coarse Hair	348	(1)
Pressing Tinted, Lightened, or Gray Hair	349	(3)
The Artistry of Artificial Hair
Introduction	352	(1)
Why People Wear Wigs	352	(1)
Types of Wigs	352	(3)
Human Hair Wigs	353	(1)
Synthetic Wigs and Hairpieces	354	(1)
Hair Extensions	354	(1)
Men's Wigs	354	(1)
Taking Wig Measurements	355	(1)
Procedure	355	(1)
Ordering the Wig	356	(1)
Blocking the Wig	357	(1)
Fitting the Wig	357	(2)
Adjusting the Wig to a Larger Size	357	(1)
Adjusting the Wig to a Smaller Size	358	(1)
The Elastic Band	358	(1)
Cleaning Wigs	359	(2)
Human Hair Wigs	359	(1)
Hand-Tied Wigs	360	(1)
Synthetic Wigs	360	(1)
Conditioning the Wig	361	(1)
Shaping Wigs	361	(2)
Human Hair Wigs	361	(1)
Synthetic Hair Wigs	362	(1)
Setting and Styling Wigs	363	(1)
Putting on and Taking Off a Wig	364	(1)
Combing Client's Hair into a Wig	364	(1)
Removing a Wig	364	(1)
Wig Coloring	364	(2)
Color Rinses	364	(1)
Semi-Permanent Tints	365	(1)
Permanent Tints	365	(1)
Hairpieces	366	(1)
Safety Precautions	367	(3)
Manicuring and Pedicuring
Introduction	370	(1)
Shape of Nails	370	(1)
Equipment, Implements, Cosmetics, and Materials	371	(4)
Equipment	372	(1)
Implements	372	(1)
Cosmetics	373	(2)
Materials	375	(1)
Preparation of the Manicuring Table	375	(1)
Procedure	375	(1)
Plain Manicure	376	(5)
Preparation	376	(1)
Procedure	377	(2)
Nail Problems	379	(1)
Completion	379	(1)
Final Cleanup	380	(1)
Safety Rules in Manicuring	381	(1)
Individual Nail Styling	382	(1)
Hand Massage	383	(1)
Procedure	383	(1)
Hand and Arm Massage	384	(1)
Procedure	384	(1)
Other Types of Manicures	385	(2)
Electric Manicure	385	(1)
Oil Manicure	386	(1)
Men's Manicure	386	(1)
Booth Manicure	386	(1)
Advanced Nail Techniques	387	(7)
Nail Wrapping	387	(2)
Sculptured Nails	389	(3)
Press-on Artificial Nails	392	(2)
Other Advanced Techniques	394	(2)
Dipped Nails	394	(1)
Nail Tipping	394	(2)
Pedicure	396	(2)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials	396	(1)
Preparation	396	(1)
Procedure	397	(1)
Foot Massage	398	(4)
Procedure	398	(1)
Completion	399	(1)
Leg Massage	399	(3)
The Nail and Its Disorders
Introduction	402	(1)
The Nail	402	(1)
Nail Structure	402	(1)
Lunula	403	(1)
Structures Surrounding the Nail	403	(1)
Nail Growth	403	(4)
Nail Malformation	404	(1)
Nail Disorders	404	(1)
Nail Irregularities	404	(3)
Fungus and Mold	407	(1)
Nail Fungus	407	(1)
Nail Mold	407	(1)
Nail Diseases	407	(5)
Theory of Massage
Introduction	412	(1)
Basic Manipulations Used in Massage	412	(4)
How Manipulative Movements Are Accomplished	412	(1)
Effleurage	413	(1)
Petrissage	413	(1)
Friction	414	(1)
Percussion or Tapotement Movement	415	(1)
Vibration	415	(1)
Joint Movements	415	(1)
Physiological Effects of Massage	416	(4)
Facials
Introduction	420	(1)
Facial Treatments	420	(1)
Facial Massage	420	(6)
Preparation for Facial Massage	420	(1)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials	421	(1)
Procedure	421	(5)
Facial Manipulations	426	(4)
Chest, Back, and Neck Manipulations (Optional)	429	(1)
Special Problems	430	(4)
Facial for Dry Skin	430	(1)
Facial for Oily Skin and Blackheads (Comedones)	431	(1)
Whiteheads (Milia)	432	(1)
Facial for Acne	432	(1)
Diet for Acne	433	(1)
Packs and Masks	434	(3)
Custom-Designed Masks	434	(2)
Hot Oil Mask Facial	436	(1)
Reasons a Client Might Find Fault with a Facial Treatment	437	(3)
Facial Makeup
Introduction	440	(1)
Preparation for Makeup Application	440	(1)
Equipment, Implements, and Materials	440	(1)
Cosmetics for Facial Makeup	441	(8)
Foundation for Makeup	441	(1)
Face Powders	442	(1)
Cheek and Lip Colors	443	(1)
Eye Makeup	444	(2)
Procedure for Applying a Professional Makeup	446	(3)
Makeup Techniques for the Black Woman	449	(2)
Procedure for Makeup Application	449	(2)
Facial Features	451	(12)
Analyzing the Client's Facial Features and Face Shape	451	(1)
Corrective Makeup Techniques	451	(4)
Tips for Applying Cheek Color	455	(1)
Basic Rules for Applying Corrective Base Makeup	455	(4)
The Use of the Eyebrow Pencil	459	(1)
Eyebrow Arching	460	(2)
Corrective Makeup for Lips	462	(1)
Lash and Brow Tint	463	(1)
Artificial Eyelashes	464	(7)
Applying Strip Eyelashes	464	(2)
Removing Artificial Strip Eyelashes	466	(1)
Applying Semi-Permanent Individual Eyelashes (Eye Tabbing)	466	(5)
Safety Precautions	471	(3)
The Skin and Its Disorders
Introduction	474	(1)
Histology of the Skin	475	(5)
How the Skin is Nourished	476	(1)
Nerves of the Skin	476	(1)
Skin Elasticity	477	(1)
Skin Color	477	(1)
Glands of the Skin	478	(1)
Functions of the Skin	479	(1)
Disorders of the Skin	480	(12)
Definitions Pertaining to Skin Disorders	480	(1)
Lesions of the Skin	480	(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Primary Lesions	481	(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Secondary Lesions	482	(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Disease	482	(1)
Disorders of the Sebaceous (Oil) Glands	483	(3)
Definitions Pertaining to Disorders of Sudoriferous (Sweat) Glands	486	(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Inflammations	486	(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Pigmentations of the Skin	487	(2)
Definitions Pertaining to Hypertrophies (New Growths) of the Skin	489	(1)
Definitions Pertaining to Plastic Surgery	489	(3)
Removing Unwanted Hair
Introduction	492	(1)
Permanent Methods of Hair Removal	492	(4)
General Information	493	(1)
Shortwave or Thermolysis Method	493	(3)
Temporary Methods of Hair Removal	496	(6)
Shaving	496	(1)
Tweezing	497	(1)
Electronic Tweezer Method of Hair Removal	497	(1)
Depilatories	497	(1)
Hot Wax	497	(2)
Cold Wax	499	(1)
Chemical Depilatories	499	(3)
Cells, Anatomy, and Physiology
Introduction	502	(1)
Cells	502	(2)
Cell Growth	503	(1)
Cell Metabolism	503	(1)
Tissues	504	(1)
Organs	504	(1)
Systems	504	(1)
Introduction to Anatomy and Physiology	505	(1)
The Skeletal System	506	(3)
Bones of the Skull	506	(2)
Bones of the Neck	508	(1)
Bones of the Chest (Thorax)	508	(1)
Bones of the Shoulder, Arm, and Hand	508	(1)
The Muscular System	509	(7)
Muscles	510	(6)
The Nervous System	516	(4)
Divisions of the Nervous System	516	(1)
The Brain and Spinal Cord	517	(1)
Nerve Cells and Nerves	517	(3)
The Circulatory System	520	(6)
The Heart	521	(1)
Blood Vessels	522	(1)
The Blood	522	(1)
The Lymph-Vascular System	523	(1)
Arteries of the Head, Face, and Neck	524	(1)
Veins of the Head, Face, and Neck	525	(1)
Blood Supply for the Arm and Hand	525	(1)
The Endocrine System	526	(1)
The Excretory System	527	(1)
The Respiratory System	527	(1)
The Digestive System	528	(2)
Electricity and Light Therapy
Introduction	530	(1)
Using Electricity	530	(3)
Electrical Measurements	530	(1)
Safety Devices	531	(2)
Electrotherapy	533	(6)
Modalities	534	(5)
Other Electrical Equipment	539	(1)
Light Therapy	540	(6)
How Light Rays Are Reproduced	540	(1)
Protecting the Eyes	540	(1)
Infrared Rays	541	(1)
Ultraviolet Rays	542	(2)
Visible Light Rays or Visible Spectrum	544	(2)
Chemistry
Introduction	546	(1)
The Science of Chemistry	546	(1)
Matter	546	(6)
Forms of Matter	547	(2)
Chemical and Physical Changes in Matter	549	(1)
Properties of Matter	549	(1)
Properties of Common Elements, Compounds, and Mixtures	550	(2)
Chemistry of Water	552	(1)
Water Purification	552	(1)
Chemistry of Shampoos	553	(5)
Classifications of Shampoos	553	(3)
Conditioners	556	(2)
Permanent Waving	558	(2)
Composition of Hair	558	(1)
The Permanent Waving Process	559	(1)
Chemical Hair Relaxing (Straightening)	560	(1)
Soft Permanent Waves	561	(1)
The Chemistry of Haircoloring	561	(6)
Temporary Haircolors	561	(1)
Semi-Permanent Hair Tints	562	(1)
Permanent Hair Tints	563	(2)
Hair Lightening	565	(2)
Toners	567	(1)
Color Fillers	567	(1)
Cosmetic Chemistry	567	(15)
Physical and Chemical Classifications of Cosmetics	567	(3)
Informational References	570	(2)
Cosmetic Body Cleansers	572	(1)
Cosmetics for Skin and Face	573	(1)
Cosmetics for Makeup	574	(8)
The Salon Business
Introduction	582	(1)
What You Should Know about Opening a Salon	582	(8)
Location	582	(1)
Written Agreements	583	(1)
Business Plan	583	(1)
Regulations, Business Laws, and Insurance	584	(1)
Types of Salon Ownership	585	(1)
Protection Against Fire, Theft, and Lawsuits	586	(1)
Business Operation	586	(1)
The Importance of Record Keeping	587	(2)
Planning the Salon's Layout	589	(1)
Operating a Salon	590	(6)
Personnel	590	(1)
Salon Policies and Practices	590	(3)
Use of the Telephone in the Salon	593	(3)
Selling in the Salon	596	(2)
Selling Principles	597	(1)
Types of Clients	597	(1)
The Psychology of Selling	598	(1)
Selling Products	598	(1)
Advertising	598	(3)
Answers To Review Questions	601	(10)
Glossary/Index	611