Pattern Making by the Flat Pattern Method

by Hollen, Norma R.; Kundel, Carolyn J.

• ISBN13: 9780139380938
• ISBN10: 0139380930
• Edition: 8th
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 1998-08-20
• Publisher: Pearson

Summary

This concise book delivers superb coverage of how to design and make garments ranging from evening dresses to sleepwear.KEY TOPICS: This book contains special sections on pattern-making for men's, boys', and girls' clothing, plus many useful tools such as a checklist for completing patterns and design inspiration sheets. Includes important discussions about the use of Computer Assisted Design (CAD), and features a new appendix that includes a list of computer software currently being used in today's fashion market. For every future professional in the apparel or fashion industry.

Table of Contents

1 The Apparel Manufacturing Process	1	(9)
Introduction	2	(1)
Designing the Line	2	(1)
Precosting the Line	3	(1)
First Patterns	4	(2)
Sample Garments	6	(1)
Production Patterns	6	(1)
Pattern Grading	6	(1)
Marker Making	7	(1)
Cutting	7	(1)
Garment Assembly	7	(1)
Pressing and Finishing	8	(1)
Final Costing	8	(1)
New Technology on Display	8	(2)
2 Patternmaking Tips, Tools, and Rules	10	(16)
The Flat-Pattern Method	11	(1)
Applying the Study of Flat Pattern	11	(1)
Creating Original Clothing	11	(4)
Supplies and Equipment	15	(3)
Design Analysis	18	(1)
Use of the Muslin Shell in Designing	19	(1)
Understanding Darts	20	(1)
Dart Size, Length, and Shape	21	(2)
Pattern Making with Darts	23	(1)
Folding Darts	23	(1)
Labeling the Pattern	24	(1)
Adding Seam Allowances	25	(1)
Accuracy	25	(1)
Check List for Completing Patterns	25	(1)
3 Bodices	26	(45)
Moving Darts: Pivot Method	27	(4)
Combining Darts: Pivot Method	31	(3)
Dividing Darts: Pivot Method	34	(2)
Darts That Fan Out	36	(1)
Moving Darts: Slash Method	36	(3)
Combining Darts: Slash Method	39	(1)
Dividing Darts: Slash Method	40	(2)
Decorative Darts: Slash Method	42	(1)
Other Methods of Moving Darts	43	(2)
Released Darts	45	(2)
Gathers	47	(4)
Seamlines Made from Darts	51	(7)
Yokes	58	(6)
Other Bodice Patterns	64	(2)
Dart End Shapes	66	(1)
Problems	67	(4)
4 Necklines and Facings	71	(17)
Lowered Neckline	72	(2)
Boat Neckline	74	(1)
Built-up Neckline	74	(1)
Cowl Neckline	75	(3)
Sundress	78	(1)
Lingerie	79	(1)
About Facings	79	(1)
Fitted Neckline Facing	80	(1)
Neckline-Center Front Facing	81	(1)
Bias Facing	82	(1)
Button and Buttonhole Closure	82	(2)
Armhole Facing for Sleeveless Garments	84	(1)
Shaped Facing: Armhole	85	(1)
Neckline-Armhole Facing: Lowered Neckline	85	(2)
Problems	87	(1)
5 Collars	88	(22)
Collar Types	89	(1)
Collar Styles	89	(2)
Flat Collars	91	(2)
Full-Roll Collars	93	(3)
Partial-Roll Collars	96	(1)
Bias Collars	97	(4)
Shawl or Cut-in-One Collars	101	(4)
Collar Variations	105	(1)
Full-Roll or Partial-Roll Collar on a Lowered Front Neckline	105	(1)
Flat Collar on Double-Breasted Front	105	(3)
Problems	108	(2)
6 Skirts	110	(35)
The Basic Skirt	111	(1)
Skirt Darts	112	(2)
Flare at the Side Seam	114	(1)
Dart Designs: Flare	114	(1)
Converting Darts to Flare	115	(1)
Open-End Darts	116	(1)
Trouser Pleats	116	(1)
Moving and Combining Skirt Back Darts: Slash Method	116	(1)
Moving and Combining Darts: Pivot Method	117	(1)
Moving and Dividing Front Darts: Slash Method	118	(1)
Converting Darts to Gathers	119	(1)
Yokes	120	(1)
Pockets	120	(1)
Gored Skirts	121	(12)
Circular Skirts	133	(1)
Pleated Skirts	134	(6)
Wrap Skirts	140	(2)
Waistbands	142	(2)
Problems	144	(1)
7 Pants	145	(10)
Making a Basic Pants Pattern	146	(1)
Measurements for Pants Patterns	146	(1)
Straight-Leg Pants Style	147	(4)
Designing with the Pants Pattern	151	(1)
Harem Pants	152	(1)
Culottes or Divided Skirt	152	(2)
Problems	154	(1)
8 Dresses	155	(22)
The Basic Sheath	156	(2)
Darts in the Basic Sheath	158	(1)
Sheath Dress Designs	159	(7)
The Princess Dress	166	(2)
The Kimono Sheath	168	(1)
Blouses from a Shortened Sheath Dress Pattern	169	(1)
Dress with Elastic in the Waistline Seam	170	(2)
Problems	172	(5)
9 Sleeves	177	(25)
The Basic Sleeve	178	(2)
Cuffs	180	(2)
Moving Darts	182	(1)
Sleeve Facing	183	(1)
Designing with Sleeves	184	(5)
The Kimono Sleeve	189	(3)
The Batwing Sleeve	192	(1)
The Raglan Sleeve	192	(6)
Cap Sleeve	198	(1)
Sleeve Variations	199	(1)
Problems	200	(2)
10 Sleepwear	202	(7)
Nightgown with Straight Yoke	203	(1)
Nightgown with V-Shaped Yoke	204	(1)
Nightgown with Curved Yoke	204	(1)
Gathered Petal Sleeve Detail	205	(1)
Asymmetric Yoke Detail	206	(1)
Scalloped Yoke Detail	206	(2)
Problems	208	(1)
11 Jackets	209	(14)
Armhole and Sleeve for a Suit or Coat	210	(2)
Jacket with Notched Collar	212	(1)
Jacket with Side Tucks	212	(1)
Jacket with Built-up Neckline	213	(1)
Jacket with Revere Collar	214	(1)
Jacket with Notched Collar	215	(1)
Jacket with Double-Breasted Double Revere Collar	215	(1)
Jacket with S-Shaped Curve	216	(1)
Long Jacket with Revere Collar	217	(1)
Notched Collar and Lapel	217	(2)
One-Piece Jacket Sleeve with Tucks	219	(1)
Two-Piece Jacket Sleeve	219	(3)
Problems	222	(1)
12 Coats and Capes	223	(7)
Cape with Yoke	224	(1)
Single-Breasted Dress Coat	225	(1)
Coat-Style Sleeve	226	(1)
Double-Breasted Raincoat with Notched Collar	227	(2)
Problems	229	(1)
13 Shirt and Pants Patterns for Men and Boys	230	(11)
Basic Dress Shirt	231	(1)
Shirt Sleeve	232	(1)
Two-Part Collar	232	(1)
Sport Shirt with Short Sleeves	233	(1)
Western Shirt	234	(1)
Tuxedo Shirt	234	(1)
Vest with Collar	235	(1)
Knit Shirt with Raglan Sleeves	236	(1)
Basic Pants with Diagonal Side Pocket	237	(1)
Pants with Horizontal Front Pocket	237	(1)
Pants with Front Pleat	238	(1)
Bathrobe with Kimono Sleeves	238	(2)
Problems	240	(1)
14 Clothing for Girls	241	(17)
Styles	242	(1)
Self-Help Features	242	(1)
Fibers and Fabrics	242	(1)
Trims	242	(1)
Growth Features	242	(1)
Saving Money	242	(1)
Patternwork	243	(1)
Peter Pan Collar	243	(1)
Bertha Collar	243	(1)
Sailor Collar	244	(1)
Short Puffed Sleeve	244	(1)
Baby Doll Sleeve	245	(1)
Flared or Bell Sleeve	245	(1)
Dress with Yoke and Pleats	245	(1)
Dress Pattern with Four Different Yokes	246	(1)
Vest	247	(1)
Dress with Princess-Line Bodice and Gathered Skirt	247	(1)
Dress with Tucks	248	(1)
Slipdress and Jacket	249	(1)
Jumper with Bib	250	(1)
Nightgown	251	(1)
Basic Straight Skirt Drafted from Four Measurements	251	(2)
Full-Circle Skirt	253	(1)
Gathered Skirt	253	(1)
Pull-on Unisex Pants with No Side Seams or Zipper	254	(1)
Jackets and Coats	254	(1)
Princess-Line Coat	254	(2)
Problems	256	(2)
15 Patterns for Knit Garments	258	(12)
Stretch and Recovery	259	(1)
Variation in Stretch	259	(1)
Shrinkage	259	(1)
Patterns for Knits	259	(1)
Length and Width Reductions	260	(1)
Dartless Bodice Block with Sleeve for a Knit with Slight or Moderate Stretch	261	(2)
Close-Fitting Bodice for Superstretch Knit	263	(1)
Body-Conforming Short Skirt Made of Superstretch Knit	264	(1)
Bicycle Shorts for Superstretch Knit Fabric with Spandex	265	(1)
Bodysuits	266	(1)
Test Pattern with a Trial Garment	267	(1)
Sewing Suggestions for Knits	268	(2)
16 Knockoff Designs and Garment Specifications	270	(12)
Taking the Garment Apart at the Seamlines	271	(1)
Using the Rub-off Technique	271	(1)
Using the Paper and Tracing-Wheel Method	272	(3)
Using a Tape Measure	275	(1)
Garment Specifications	276	(1)
Knit Blouse Specifications	276	(3)
Woven Pants Specifications	279	(3)
17 Evening Wear	282	(10)
Evening Gown with Trumpet Flare Skirt	283	(1)
Asymmetric Top with One Bare Shoulder	284	(1)
Strapless Top	285	(2)
Overskirts	287	(1)
Necklines	287	(1)
Waistlines	287	(1)
Combinations of Fabrics	288	(1)
Back Interest in Gowns	288	(1)
Cutaway Areas	288	(1)
Flared Ruffle Front Detail	288	(1)
Layers of Fabric	289	(1)
Jackets with Fancy Trims	289	(1)
The Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve	289	(1)
Sleeve with a V Point at the Wrist	290	(1)
Shirred Cap Sleeves	291	(1)
18 Decorative Design	292	(25)
Appliques	293	(2)
Pockets	295	(1)
Bows	296	(1)
3-D Flowers	296	(1)
Tucks	297	(2)
Embroidery	299	(1)
Braid Trim	299	(1)
Fringe Trim	300	(1)
Color Blocking	300	(1)
Piping	301	(3)
Quilt Designs	304	(1)
Frogs	304	(2)
Stripes	306	(1)
Plaids	306	(3)
Tabs	309	(1)
Zippers	309	(1)
Buttons and Buttonholes	309	(3)
Belts	312	(1)
Contrasting Colored Cuffs, Collars, and Pockets	312	(1)
Asymmetric Designs	312	(1)
Shirring	312	(1)
Appropriate Fabrics for Patterns	312	(5)
Appendix A Slopers	317	(23)
Appendix B Metric Conversion Table	340	(2)
Appendix C Standard Body Measurement Charts	342	(2)
Appendix D Other Resources for Apparel Pattern Makers	344	(5)
Index	349