Textiles

by Kadolph, Sara J.; Langford, Anna L.

• ISBN13: 9780131187696
• ISBN10: 0131187694
• Edition: 10th
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2006-07-14
• Publisher: Pearson

Summary

This popular book, now in its 10th edition, considers textiles as the materials used to create apparel, furnishings, and industrial products. It approaches textiles from a product analysis approach, using professional terminology, and provides examples to illustrate key concepts.Flow charts on identifying fabric structure and naming fancy woven fabrics; other fabrication methods; and knits have been added. Also included are tables summarizing components such as fibers, yarns, fabric structure, and finishes. An expanded glossary makes it easier for readers to find pertinent information.For designers, technical designers, apparel engineers, and others in the fashion/apparel business.

Table of Contents

Preface	xiii
SECTION ONE Introduction to Textiles	1	(16)
Introduction	3	(6)
Product Development from a Textile Perspective	9	(8)
Serviceability and the Consumer	11	(1)
Performance	11	(3)
Information Sources	14	(3)
SECTION TWO Fibers	17	(156)
Textile Fibers and Their Properties	19	(20)
Fiber Properties	20	(4)
Physical Structure
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement
Serviceability	24	(10)
Aesthetic Properties
Durability Properties
Comfort Properties
Appearance-Retention Properties
Resistance to Chemicals
Resistance to Light
Environmental Impact
Care Properties
Cost
Fiber Property Charts
Fiber Identification	34	(5)
Visual Inspection
Burn Test
Microscopy
Solubility Tests
Natural Cellulosic Fibers	39	(22)
Seed Fibers	41	(9)
Cotton
Other Seed Fibers	50	(1)
Coir
Kapok
Milkweed
Bast Fibers	51	(3)
Flax
Other Bast Fibers	54	(3)
Ramie
Hemp
Jute
Kenaf
Hisbiscus
Leaf Fibers	57	(1)
Pina
Abaca
Sisal and Henequen
Other Cellulosic Materials	58	(3)
Natural Protein Fibers	61	(24)
Wool	63	(9)
Production of Wool
Types and Kinds of Wool
Physical Structure of Wool
Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Wool
Properties of Wool
Environmental Impact of Wool
Uses of Wool
Specialty Wools	72	(4)
Mohair
Qiviut
Angora
Camel's Hair
Cashmere
Llama and Alpaca
Vicuna and Guanaco
Yak
Silk	76	(5)
Production of Silk
Physical Structure of Silk
Chemical Composition and Molecular Structure of Silk
Properties of Silk
Environmental Impact of Silk
Uses of Silk
Spider Silk	81	(1)
Identification of Natural Protein Fibers	81	(4)
The Fiber-Manufacturing Process	85	(16)
Fiber Spinning	87	(2)
Spinning Methods
Fiber Modifications	89	(7)
Spinneret Modifications
Molecular Structure and Crystallinity Modifications
Additives to the Polymer or Spinning Solution
Modifications in Fiber Spinning
Complex Modifications
Environmental Impact of Manufactured Fibers	96	(1)
Manufactured-Fiber Consumption	97	(1)
Manufactured versus Natural Fibers	97	(4)
Manufactured Regenerated Fibers	101	(16)
Identification of Regenerated Fibers	102	(12)
Rayon
Lyocell
Acetate
Other Regenerated Fibers	114	(3)
Synthetic Fibers	117	(38)
Synthetic Fibers: An Overview	118	(5)
Common Properties of Synthetic Fibers
Common Manufacturing Processes
Identification of Synthetic Fibers
Common Fiber Modifications
Synthetic Fibers	123	(32)
Nylon
Polyester
Olefin
Acrylic
Modacrylic Fibers
Special-Use Fibers	155	(18)
Elastomeric Fibers	156	(5)
Rubber
Spandex
Elastoester
Elasterell-p
Lastol
Fibers with Chemical, Heat, or Fire Resistance	161	(9)
Aramid
Glass
Metal and Metallic Fibers
Novoloid
PBI
Sulfar
Saran
Vinyon
Vinal
Fluoropolymer
Carbon
Melamine
Other Special-Use Fibers	170	(3)
SECTION THREE Yarns	173	(38)
Yarn Processing	175	(20)
Filament Yarns	176	(12)
Smooth-Filament Yarn
Monofilament Yarns
Tape and Network Yarns
Bulk Yarns
Spun Yarns
Processing Staple Fibers
Inserting Yarn Twist
Alternate Spun-Yarn Processes
Spinning Filament Tow into Spun Yarns
High-Bulk Yarns	188	(1)
Fiber Blends	188	(3)
Blend Levels
Blending Methods
Blended-Filament Yarns
Environmental Impact of Yarn Processing	191	(4)
Yarn Classification	195	(16)
Fiber Length	197	(1)
Yarn Twist	197	(3)
Direction of Twist
Amount of Twist
Yarn Size	200	(1)
Yarn Number
Denier
Tex System
Yarn Regularity	201	(7)
Simple Yarns
Sewing Thread
Fancy Yarns
Composite Yarns
Yarn Performance and Yarn Quality	208	(3)
SECTION FOUR	211	(116)
Weaving, Basic Weaves, and Fabrics	213	(32)
Fabric Quality	215	(1)
Woven Fabrics	215	(1)
The Loom	216	(5)
Preparing for Weaving
Loom Advancements
Environmental Impact of Weaving
Characteristics of Woven Fabrics	221	(3)
Warp and Filling
Grain
Fabric Count
Balance
Selvages
Fabric Width
Fabric Weight
Properties of Woven Fabrics	224	(2)
Naming and Diagramming Woven Fabrics	226	(19)
Plain Weave
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
Fancy Weaves and Fabrics	245	(20)
Dobby Weaves	246	(1)
Extra-Yarn Weaves	246	(3)
Pique Weaves	249	(1)
Jacquard Weaves	250	(2)
Momie Weaves	252	(1)
Leno Weaves	253	(1)
Double Cloth	254	(2)
Double Weaves
Double-Faced Fabrics
Pile Weaves	256	(4)
Filling-Pile Fabrics
Warp-Pile Fabrics
Slack-Tension Weaves	260	(1)
Tapestry Weave	261	(1)
Narrow Fabrics	262	(3)
Knitting and Knit Fabrics	265	(28)
Knitting	266	(4)
Needles
Stitches
Fabric Characteristics
Environmental Impact of Knitting
Filling (or Weft) Knitting	270	(13)
Machines Used in Filling Knitting
Filling-Knit Structures---Stitches
Filling-Knit Fabrics
Warp Knitting	283	(10)
Machines Used in Warp Knitting
Warp Knits versus Filling Knits
Warp-Knit Fabrics
Minor Warp Knits
Narrow Knitted Fabrics
Other Fabrication Methods	293	(34)
Fabrics from Solutions	294	(2)
Films
Foams
Fabrics from Fibers	296	(7)
Nonwoven or Fiberweb Structures
Felt
Netlike Structures
Fabrics from Yarns	303	(3)
Braids
Lace
Composite Fabrics	306	(15)
Coated Fabrics
Poromeric Fabrics
Suedelike Fabrics
Flocked Fabrics
Tufted-Pile Fabrics
Laminates
Stitch-Bonded Fabrics
Quilted Fabrics
Supported-Scrim Structures
Fiber-Reinforced Materials
Animal Products	321	(6)
Leather
Furs
SECTION FIVE	327	(84)
Finishing: An Overview	329	(14)
Routine Steps in Producing a Fabric	332	(7)
Fiber Processing
Yarn Processing
Yarn Preparation
Fabrication
Fabric Preparation
Whitening
Further Preparation Steps
Coloration
Finishing
Drying
Reworking
Routine Finishing Steps for Wool Fabrics	339	(1)
Crabbing
Decating
Carbonizing
Pressing
Environmental Impact of Finishing	340	(3)
Aesthetic Finishes	343	(18)
Luster	345	(3)
Glazed
Cire
Plasticize
Moire
Schreiner
Embossed
Drape	348	(1)
Transparent and Crisp
Burned-Out
Sizing
Weighting
Texture and Hand	349	(12)
Embossed
Pleated
Puckered Surface
Plisse
Flocked
Embroidered
Expanded Foam
Sheared
Brushed
Napped
Crepeing
Fulled
Beetled
Coronized
Emerizing, Sueding, or Sanding
Abrasive, Chemical, or Enzyme Washes
Silk Boil-Off
Caustic Treatment
Hand Builders
Special-Purpose Finishes	361	(20)
Stabilization: Shrinkage Control	362	(3)
Relaxation Shrinkage and Finishes
Progressive Shrinkage and Finishes
Shape-Retention Finishes	365	(4)
Theory of Wrinkle Recovery
Durable Press
Quality Performance Standards and Care
Appearance-Retention Finishes	369	(2)
Soil- and Stain-Release Finishes
Abrasion-Resistant Finishes
Antislip Finishes
Fume-Fading-Resistant Finishes
Surface or Back Coatings
Light-Stabilizing Finishes
Pilling-Resistant Finishes
Comfort-Related Finishes	371	(2)
Water-Repellent Finishes
Porosity-Control Finishes
Water-Absorbent Finishes
Ultraviolet-Absorbent Finishes
Antistatic Finishes
Fabric Softeners
Phase-Change Finishes
Biological-Control Finishes	373	(2)
Insect- and Moth-Control Finishes
Mold- and Mildew-Control Finishes
Rot-Proof Finishes
Antimicrobial Finishes
Microencapsulated Finishes
Safety-Related Finishes	375	(6)
Flame-Retardant Finishes
Liquid-Barrier Finishes
Light-Reflecting Finishes
Dyeing and Printing	381	(30)
Color Theory	382	(1)
Colorants	383	(2)
Pigments
Dyes
Stages of Dyeing	385	(6)
Fiber Stage
Yarn Stage
Piece or Fabric Stage
Product Stage
Methods of Dyeing	391	(2)
Batch Dyeing
Package Dyeing
Combination Dyeing
Printing	393	(10)
Direct Printing
Discharge Printing
Resist Printing
Other Printing Methods
Recent Developments in Dyeing and Printing	403	(1)
Color Problems	404	(4)
Environmental Impact of Dyeing and Printing	408	(3)
SECTION SIX Other Issues Related to Textiles	411	(45)
Care of Textile Products	413	(18)
Factors Related to Cleaning	416	(3)
Soil and Soil Removal
Detergency
Solvents
Laundering	419	(3)
Synthetic Detergents and Soaps
Other Additives
Sorting
Washing	422	(1)
Horizontal- and Vertical-Axis Washing Machines
Drying	423	(1)
Dry Cleaning	423	(2)
Dry Cleaning of Leather and Fur
Home Solvent Cleaning
Professional Wet Cleaning	425	(1)
Storage	425	(1)
Other Cleaning Methods	426	(2)
Vacuuming
Wet Cleaning
Dry-Foam Cleaning
Hot-Water Extraction
Powder Cleaners
Ultrasonic Cleaning
Conservation Practices	428	(1)
Environmental Impact of Cleaning	428	(3)
Legal and Environmental Concerns	431	(18)
Laws and Regulations	432	(7)
Silk Regulation, 1932
Wool Products Labeling Act, 1939 (Amended 1986)
Fur Products Labeling Act, 1952 (Amended 1980)
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, 1960 (Amended)
Permanent Care Labeling Regulation, 1972 (Amended 1984)
Laws and Regulations Related to Safety
Flammable Fabrics Act, 1953, and Its Amendment
Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA)
Other Label Information	439	(1)
Mandatory and Voluntary Labeling Programs
Codes	440	(1)
Tort	441	(1)
Consumer Recourse	441	(1)
Environmental Issues	441	(8)
Environmental Impact
Efforts within the Textile Industry
Environmental Health and Safety
Disposal and Recycling
Career Exploration	449	(7)
Sourcing	450	(1)
Product Development	451	(1)
Production	451	(1)
Design	451	(2)
Merchandising	453	(1)
Marketing	453	(1)
Government	453	(1)
Education	454	(1)
Entrepreneurship	454	(1)
Museum or Collection Work	454	(1)
Summary	455	(1)
Appendix A Fiber Names in Other Languages	456	(1)
Appendix B Fibers No Longer Produced in the United States	457	(1)
Appendix C Selected Trade Names	458	(2)
Glossary	460	(31)
Index	491