Turn-Of-The-Century Fashion Patterns and Tailoring Techniques

by Gordon, S. S.

• ISBN13: 9780486412412
• ISBN10: 0486412415
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2012-06-13
• Publisher: Dover Publications

Summary

Classic 1901 guide to cutting ladies' tailor-made clothing includes patterns and detailed instructions for creating over 60 garments and parts of wearing apparel: leg-o-mutton sleeves, broad collars, military cape, knickerbockers, bloomers, opera cloak, riding breeches, and much more. The perfect reference for recreating vintage clothing for costume parties and theatrical productions.

Table of Contents

Title	1	(6)
Preface	6	(2)
Introduction	8	(2)
PART I.--MEASURING.
The Measures	10	(1)
Appliances for Measuring	11	(1)
Measuring (with illustrations)	12	(10)
PART II.--THE SYSTEMS.
Drafting	22	(1)
Seam Allowances	22	(1)
Plain, Close Fitting Basque or Waist. Back and Shoulder Sections	23	(4)
Plain, Close Fitting Basque or Waist. (concluded) Waist and Hip Sections	27	(3)
Close-Fitting Waist. Two Underarmpieces	30	(2)
Low-Neck Waist	32	(2)
Tight-Fitting Jacket---Two Bust Darts	34	(4)
Tight-Fitting Jacket (concluded)	38	(4)
Tight-Fitting Jacket---Single Bust Dart	42	(2)
Bolero or Zouave Jacket	44	(1)
Short Dart	44	(2)
Double-Breasted Short Jacket. Half-Tight Fronts	46	(2)
Full-Box Fronts	48	(1)
The Position of the Side-seam	48	(2)
Jackets with Full Skirts	50	(1)
Whole Backs	50	(2)
Loose-Fitting Sack Jacket	52	(2)
Tight-Fitting Jacket---Vest Effect	54	(2)
Double-Breasted Frock Coat	56	(2)
Double-Breasted Frock Coat (concluded)	58	(2)
Cutaway Frock Coat	60	(2)
Eton Jacket	62	(4)
Single-Breasted Box Coat	66	(2)
Plain Sleeve	68	(2)
Plain Sleeve (concluded)	70	(2)
Sleeve with Enlarged Top	72	(2)
Sleeve with Enlarged Top (concluded)	74	(2)
Dart Sleeves	76	(2)
Enlarged Sleeve (Medium Leg-o-Mutton)	78	(2)
Enlarged Sleeve (Full Leg-o-Mutton)	80	(2)
Bell or Wing Sleeve	82	(2)
Collars	84	(4)
Plain and Ripple Collarettes	88	(2)
Broad Collars	90	(2)
Three-Quarter, or Military Cape	92	(2)
Half-Circle Cape	94	(2)
Hood	96	(1)
Collarette Hood	96	(2)
Small Waist and Large Front Hip	98	(2)
Corpulent Forms	100	(2)
Spreading the Darts	102	(2)
Variations in Front-of-Scye and Half-Back Widths	104	(1)
Variations for Front Hip	105	(1)
Single-Breasted No-Collar Vest	106	(4)
Single-Breasted Notch-Collar Vest	110	(2)
Double-Breasted Vest, Creased Collar	112	(1)
Double-Breasted Vest, Flat Collar	112	(3)
Skirts	115	(4)
General Notes on Skirts	119	(1)
Five-Gored Skirt, Underfolding Box-Plait	120	(2)
Skirt. Double Underfolding Box Plait	122	(2)
Skirt. Box-Plait on each side of Center-Back Seam	124	(2)
Skirt. Box Plait at Back Center and one each side	126	(2)
Skirt. Outward Double Box-Plait, Round and Trained Lengths	128	(1)
Skirt. Habit Back	128	(2)
Skirt with Flounce	130	(2)
Tunic	132	(2)
Circular Skirt	134	(2)
Skirt with Yoke	136	(2)
Divided Skirt. Bicycle	138	(2)
Skirts. Variations of Front, Side and Back Lengths	140	(2)
Skirts. Variations for Prominent Stomach	142	(2)
Cross-Saddle Riding Skirt	144	(2)
Equestrian Skirt (Side Saddle)	146	(4)
Trousers	150	(2)
Riding Breeches	152	(2)
Knee Breeches	154	(2)
Knickerbockers	156	(2)
Bloomers	158	(2)
Leggings	160	(2)
Raglan Box Coat	162	(2)
Raglan Sleeve	164	(2)
Plain Ulster	166	(2)
Three-Seam Coat	168	(2)
Inverness	170	(4)
Opera Cloak	174	(6)
Allowance for Seams and Inlays	180	(2)
Laying Out	182	(2)
Table of Proportionate Measures	184