Apparel Manufacturing Sewn Product Analysis

by Kunz, Grace I.; Glock, Ruth E.

• ISBN13: 9780131119826
• ISBN10: 0131119826
• Edition: 4th
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2004-06-28
• Publisher: Pearson

Summary

Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysis is designed to provide a conceptual framework of the manufacturing process for future apparel professionals. It helps students understand the complex decision making involved in marketing, merchandising, and producing apparel to meet the needs of the target customer. Our intent, is to provide a global, integrated perspective so that readers will understand the interrelationships among processes and decisions.

The content is divided into five parts that focus on the factors that determine the cost, price, quality, performance, and value of garments.

• Part I presents a broad perspective of the organization of the apparel business, the roles of marketing and merchandising, and the complexities of operating in a worldwide market.
• Part II provides a comprehensive discussion of apparel development processes including development of product standards and specifications. Specific roles of design and technical design are enhanced with new sections on establishing garment fit and finishing.
• Part III focuses on apparel management with emphasis on quality, cost, materials, product development, and production sourcing.
• Part IV examines production processes considering engineering, production planning and management, and human resources that underlay preproduction, sewing, equipment, and finishing operations.
• Part V focuses on management, issues and decisions related to support materials, closures, and trims.
• Appendices enable readers to relate sewn product decisions to three basic apparel products including t-shirts, men's dress slacks, and dress shirts.

Table of Contents

Preface	vii
PART I INTRODUCTION TO APPAREL MANUFACTURING	1	(94)
Organization of the Apparel Business	3	(30)
Nature of Apparel	4	(3)
Structure of the Apparel Industry	7	(7)
Globalization of Apparel Manufacturing	14	(7)
Organization of Apparel Firms According to Areas of Specialization	21	(12)
Summary	29	(1)
References and Reading List	30	(1)
Key Words	31	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	32	(1)
Marketing Strategies	33	(30)
Marketing Responsibilities in Apparel Firms	34	(2)
Strategic Marketing Processes	36	(6)
Retail and Wholesale Marketing Strategies	42	(6)
Labeling and Licensing	48	(15)
Summary	59	(1)
References and Reading List	59	(1)
Key Words	60	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	61	(2)
Merchandising Processes	63	(32)
Context of Merchandising	64	(1)
Concepts of Apparel Product Lines	65	(4)
Dimensions of Product Change	69	(5)
Nature and Timing of Merchandising Responsibilities	74	(21)
Summary	91	(1)
References and Reading List	91	(1)
Key Words	92	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	93	(2)
PART II PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT	95	(108)
Product Standards and Specifications	97	(26)
Product Standards	98	(1)
Sources of Quality and Performance Standards	98	(1)
Company Standards for Quality, Size and Fit, and Performance	99	(2)
Developing and Using Specifications	101	(5)
Writing Specifications for Apparel Manufacturing	106	(6)
Professional Perspectives on Product Development	112	(11)
Summary	121	(1)
References and Reading List	121	(1)
Key Words	122	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	122	(1)
Garment Analysis and Specification Development	123	(38)
Role of Garment Analysis	124	(10)
Style Description	134	(1)
Positioning Strategy	135	(3)
Sizing and Fit	138	(7)
Materials Selection	145	(3)
Garment Components Assembly	148	(4)
Final Garment Assembly and Finishing	152	(4)
Style Presentation	156	(5)
Summary	159	(1)
References and Reading List	159	(1)
Key Words	159	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	160	(1)
Creative and Technical Design	161	(42)
Influences on the Design Process	162	(4)
Creative Design	166	(18)
Technical Design	184	(9)
Apparel Design Technology	193	(10)
Summary	198	(1)
References and Reading List	199	(1)
Key Words	200	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	200	(3)
PART III DIMENSIONS OF APPAREL MANAGEMENT	203	(124)
Management of Quality	205	(20)
Systems for Quality Management	205	(6)
Methods of Assuring Quality	211	(9)
Costs and Benefits of Quality Programs	220	(5)
Summary	223	(1)
References and Reading List	224	(1)
Key Words	224	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	224	(1)
Costs, Costing, Pricing, and Profit	225	(32)
Costs and Profits	226	(3)
Systems of Costing	229	(5)
Stages of Costing	234	(3)
Determining Product Costs	237	(5)
Cost/Volume Relationships	242	(7)
Pricing Strategies	249	(8)
Summary	255	(1)
References and Reading List	255	(1)
Key Words	256	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	256	(1)
Materials Sourcing and Selection	257	(42)
The Global Textile Complex	258	(1)
Producer and Consumer Goods	258	(6)
The Role of Sourcing Decisions in an Apparel Firm	264	(3)
Materials Sourcing Processes	267	(3)
Selecting Fabrics	270	(8)
Predicting Aesthetics and Performance	278	(7)
Evaluating Fabric Quality	285	(14)
Summary	295	(1)
References and Reading List	296	(1)
Key Words	296	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	297	(2)
Sourcing Product Development and Production	299	(28)
Sourcing Issues	300	(5)
Global Sourcing	305	(1)
Economic Development Trade Legislation	306	(6)
Sourcing Priorities and Processes	312	(10)
Costing Imported Goods	322	(5)
Summary	324	(1)
References and Reading List	324	(1)
Key Words	325	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	325	(2)
PART IV FOCUS ON PRODUCTION	327	(176)
Apparel Engineering	329	(34)
Productivity Concepts	330	(1)
Production Strategies	330	(2)
Workflow	332	(5)
Apparel Production Systems	337	(10)
Production Processes	347	(3)
Work Study	350	(7)
Ergonomics	357	(6)
Summary	361	(1)
References and Reading List	361	(1)
Key Words	362	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	362	(1)
Production Planning and Management	363	(30)
Production Strategies	364	(1)
Production Planning	365	(7)
Human Resource Management	372	(9)
Inventory Management	381	(2)
Waste Management	383	(2)
Equipment Management and Plant Modernization	385	(8)
Summary	391	(1)
References and Reading List	391	(1)
Key Words	391	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	392	(1)
Preproduction Operations	393	(34)
Initiation of Preproduction Operations	394	(1)
Marker Making	395	(7)
Spreading	402	(10)
Cutting	412	(11)
Off Loading	423	(4)
Summary	424	(1)
References and Reading List	425	(1)
Key Words	425	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	426	(1)
Stitches, Seams, Thread, and Needles	427	(50)
Stitches	428	(12)
Seams	440	(15)
Sewing Threads	455	(10)
Needles	465	(2)
Seam Appearance and Performance	467	(10)
Summary	473	(1)
References and Reading List	474	(1)
Key Words	474	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	475	(2)
Equipment for Assembly and Pressing	477	(26)
Stages of Technology Advancement	478	(4)
Sewing Machine Fundamentals	482	(7)
Work Aids	489	(4)
Pressing Equipment	493	(10)
Summary	500	(1)
References and Reading List	501	(1)
Key Words	501	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	501	(2)
PART V FINDINGS MANAGEMENT	503	(88)
Support Materials	505	(26)
Purposes of Support Materials	506	(3)
Interlinings	509	(7)
Linings	516	(7)
Other Support Materials	523	(8)
Summary	528	(1)
References and Reading List	529	(1)
Key Words	529	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	529	(2)
Closures	531	(32)
Purposes and Costs of Closures	531	(2)
Zippers	533	(6)
Buttons and Buttonholes	539	(12)
Snaps and Hooks	551	(2)
Elastic	553	(5)
Hook-and-Loop Tape	558	(5)
Summary	560	(1)
References and Reading List	561	(1)
Key Words	561	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	562	(1)
Trims	563	(28)
Types and Sources of Trims	564	(3)
Knit Trims	567	(1)
Embroidery	568	(11)
Appliques, Insets, and Lace Trims	579	(2)
Lace	581	(1)
Screen, Heat Transfer, and Digital Printing	582	(9)
Summary	589	(1)
References and Reading List	589	(1)
Key Words	590	(1)
Discussion Questions and Activities	590	(1)
Appendices	591	(38)
Garment Analysis Application #1: Analysis of T-Shirts	591	(8)
Garment Analysis Application #2: Analysis of Men's Dress Pants	599	(14)
Garment Analysis Application #3: Analysis of Men's Dress Shirts	613	(16)
Glossary	629	(18)
Index	647

Excerpts

Our goal for the 4thedition Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysisremains the same as it was for the first edition: to provide a broad conceptual and somewhat theoretical perspective of apparel manufacturing that will serve as a foundation for future apparel professionals. We have consulted professionals, industry trade associations, visited factories in national and international locations, and participated in numerous apparel related conferences and workshops to supplement academic research and personal observations. Although our textbook is widely used by professionals in all segments of the industry it is our goal to assist textile and apparel students to better understand garment manufacturing and the complex decision making involved in producing apparel to meet the needs of the target customer. Our intent is to provide a global and integrated perspective that will enable students to have a comprehensive understanding of the industry and to be well prepared apparel professionals. The textbook incorporates a professional approach, industry language with an academic orientation, and an improved conceptual framework reflective of changes in the global industry. The content is still divided into five parts that focus on the factors that determine the cost, price, quality, performance, and value of garments. Part I, "Introduction to Apparel Manufacturing," deals with issues associated with the concepts of product performance and quality, the functional organization of apparel manufacturing firms, and the complexities of operating in a world market. There is increased emphasis on global and retail markets. The first chapter is "Organization of the Apparel Business." The new revision contains descriptions of the different types of retailers and trade associations. Part I also includes updated versions of the chapters "Marketing Strategies" and "Merchandising Processes." This includes a market analysis of U.S. jeans wear and positioning strategies for men's dress shirts. Part II is titled "Product Development." It includes three chapters that deal with factors relating to product analysis, specification development, and the specific roles of design and technical design in the apparel development processes. Chapters 4 and 5 have been reversed from the 3rd edition. New career opportunities in the industry are still in Chapter 4. The Garment Analysis Guide is enhanced to cover garment analysis as well as specification development. There are new sections on establishing garment fit and finishing. Part III, "Dimensions of Apparel Management" includes four chapters that deal with apparel management in a global environment. The sequence of chapters has been changed to move "Costs, Costing, Pricing, and Profit," ahead of the chapters on sourcing. This will enable students to relate costing concepts to sourcing issues. . "Materials sourcing and Selection" begins with the discussion of the Global Textile Complex. "Product Development and Production Sourcing" now includes an expanded discussion of import costs. Part IV, "Focus on Production," consists of five chapters related to the production processes. Content from "Apparel Engineering" and "Preproduction Operations although not significantly changed, has been reordered to reduce duplication and to enhance the flow of information. Part V, "Findings Management," includes three chapters focusing on issues related to support materials, closures, and trims. The content has been updated to reflect new materials and applications that are viable options in developing products for today's specialized markets. As with previous editions there are three appendices that discuss applications of the garment analysis system. Styling, materials selection, and assembly methods for three basic products are analyzed relative to target markets, price range, and consumer expectations.