Introduction | p. vi |
Acknowledgements | p. vii |
Map of Indonesia | p. xi |
Map of Jakarta | p. xii |
First Impressions | p. 1 |
Terry | p. 2 |
Planet Jakarta | p. 3 |
Derek | p. 8 |
Airport | p. 9 |
History, Geography and Politics | p. 12 |
Weather | p. 13 |
Heat | p. 16 |
Natural Disasters | p. 19 |
History | p. 22 |
Kampung | p. 25 |
Architecture | p. 27 |
Monas | p. 29 |
Westernisation | p. 33 |
The Cendana Clan | p. 37 |
Time of Crisis | p. 39 |
'Dollar Naik, Rupiah Turun' | p. 41 |
Acts of Rebellion | p. 43 |
The Electoral System | p. 47 |
The Present | p. 49 |
The Future | p. 50 |
Jakartans | p. 51 |
Betawi | p. 52 |
Children | p. 55 |
Beggars | p. 59 |
Amateur Police | p. 60 |
Real Police | p. 62 |
Umbrella Boys | p. 65 |
Having Things Done | p. 66 |
Pembantu | p. 67 |
Everyone Else | p. 71 |
What Makes a Jakartan a Jakartan | p. 73 |
Fitting into Society | p. 84 |
Faux Pas and How to Almost Avoid Them | p. 85 |
Titles of Respect | p. 91 |
Marriage | p. 93 |
Sex | p. 96 |
Bule | p. 99 |
Making Friends | p. 100 |
Hassle | p. 102 |
Privacy | p. 105 |
Other Westerners in Indonesia | p. 107 |
Corruption | p. 111 |
Vigilantes | p. 113 |
Getting into Trouble | p. 113 |
Transvestites | p. 114 |
Homosexuality | p. 115 |
Settling In | p. 117 |
Visas and Immigration | p. 118 |
Accommodation | p. 127 |
Local Government | p. 134 |
Floors and Furniture | p. 136 |
Hotels | p. 138 |
Ailments | p. 140 |
Doctors and Dentists | p. 142 |
Hospitals | p. 143 |
Alternative Medicine | p. 143 |
Jamu | p. 144 |
Stress Relief | p. 146 |
Water | p. 147 |
Mandi | p. 151 |
Toilets | p. 153 |
Banking and Money | p. 154 |
Clothes | p. 158 |
Shopping | p. 161 |
Media | p. 168 |
Telephones | p. 172 |
Internet | p. 174 |
Harsher Realities | p. 175 |
Wildlife | p. 178 |
Sounds | p. 184 |
Smells | p. 187 |
Crime | p. 189 |
Drugs | p. 190 |
Getting Around | p. 192 |
Transport-Public and Others | p. 197 |
Food and Entertaining | p. 217 |
Eating In | p. 218 |
Rice | p. 219 |
Fruit | p. 223 |
Coffee | p. 227 |
Eating Out | p. 228 |
Non-Indonesian Food | p. 234 |
Drinking | p. 236 |
Smoking | p. 238 |
Culture and Travel | p. 240 |
Pursuing Culture | p. 241 |
Street Furniture | p. 245 |
Music | p. 249 |
Kites | p. 263 |
Highland Gathering | p. 263 |
Spare Time? | p. 265 |
National Holidays | p. 265 |
Weekend Retreats | p. 269 |
Photography | p. 270 |
Communicating in Jakarta | p. 272 |
Language | p. 273 |
Learning the Language | p. 277 |
Swearing | p. 282 |
Non-verbal Communication | p. 283 |
Doing Business | p. 287 |
Adjusting to Different Norms | p. 288 |
Overview of Recent Developments | p. 291 |
Indonesian Law and Legal Certainty | p. 292 |
In the Office | p. 296 |
The Local Community | p. 299 |
Contacts | p. 300 |
Fast Facts | p. 303 |
Culture Quiz | p. 308 |
Do's and Don't | p. 314 |
Glossary | p. 316 |
Resource Guide | p. 330 |
Further Reading | p. 348 |
About the Authors | p. 351 |
Index | p. 353 |
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