List of Illustrations | p. vii |
List of maps | p. ix |
Photo credits | p. ix |
Acknowledgements | p. x |
Foreword | p. xi |
Introduction | |
Pilgrimage through time | p. 1 |
In the field of conflict between Tibet and China-An overview | p. 7 |
Kham and Amdo: A geographical definition | p. 7 |
The formation of the landscape | p. 8 |
A melting pot of different ethnic groups and cultures | p. 10 |
Under Chinese rule | p. 11 |
Outlook for the future | p. 12 |
The cradle of Tibetan civilization | p. 15 |
Mythical ancient clans | p. 15 |
The neolithic culture of the Eastern Tibetan Qiang-an early bridge between China and Tibet | p. 16 |
The immigration of the Indo-European Da Xia and China's first advance into Amdo | p. 20 |
The mysterious Kingdom of Women | p. 21 |
Qiang religious beliefs | p. 23 |
The Tuyuhun Kingdom | p. 27 |
The Tibetan Snow Lion and the Chinese Dragon struggle for Eastern Tibet | p. 31 |
The Pugyel Kings conquer Azha | p. 31 |
Tibet's state ideology, legal code and administration-the work of the Eastern Tibetan minister Gar Tongtsen Yulsung | p. 33 |
The creation of the Tibetan script | p. 37 |
Tibetan expansion to the East | p. 40 |
A shamanistic sacrificial ritual in Amdo | p. 42 |
The spread of Buddhism in Eastern Tibet | p. 46 |
Nestorian Christians in Tibet? | p. 57 |
Archaeological discoveries at Dulan's necropolis | p. 60 |
The decline of national unity | p. 65 |
Political fragmentation and religious diversity | p. 69 |
Kingdoms in Eastern Tibet | p. 69 |
The monastic state of Tsongkha | p. 69 |
The Tangut Empire | p. 70 |
King Gesar of Ling | p. 74 |
The Bonpo Kingdom of Beri | p. 75 |
The Kingdom of Dege | p. 76 |
The renaissance of Buddhism | p. 77 |
The revival of Bon | p. 84 |
Aba-a microcosm of Tibetan religious practice | p. 86 |
Losar-New Year's festival at Nangzhig | p. 89 |
The doctrine of emptiness: the Jonangpa school | p. 93 |
Tsongkhapa-the reformer from Amdo | p. 101 |
The Litang horse festival | p. 105 |
The fate of a Gelug monastery in Kham | p. 110 |
The development of Sino-Tibetan styles of art | p. 112 |
The power of writing and painting | p. 121 |
Mani stones-signs in nature | p. 122 |
Wind and movement carry the mind-prayer wheels, lungta paper, and prayer flags | p. 126 |
Paper as a 'carrier of writing' | p. 127 |
A visit to one of Tibet's last papermakers | p. 131 |
Dege Parkhang-Tibet's only intact, traditional printing press | p. 134 |
A visit to Dege Parkhang | p. 136 |
Thangkas-contemporary rules and concepts of a traditional painting technique | p. 140 |
The largest thangka in the world comes from Amdo | p. 146 |
Nomads | p. 153 |
The art of nomadic survival | p. 153 |
The Golok-nomads, pilgrims and robbers | p. 159 |
Labrang Tashikyil Monastery-the meeting point of four ethnic groups | p. 162 |
Wilhelm Filchner and Albert Tafel-two German pioneers in Golok territory | p. 164 |
A winter pilgrimage to Amnye Machen-pages from the author's journal | p. 167 |
Between independence and heteronomy | p. 173 |
Mongolian invasion and Islamic immigration | p. 173 |
The rule of Lhasa | p. 175 |
Jesuits in Lhasa | p. 177 |
The partitioning of Kham | p. 182 |
The ecumenical Rime movement and the monastic university Larung Gar | p. 185 |
The first Chinese invasion and Tibet's declaration of independence | p. 189 |
South-west Kham lost to British India | p. 191 |
The recapture of Kham by the Thirteenth Dalai Lama | p. 193 |
Missed opportunities before the storm | p. 194 |
The second Chinese invasion | p. 196 |
Robert Ford-Radio operator in Tibet's service | p. 197 |
Swiss Catholic priests between the Mekong and the Salween | p. 200 |
The Khampa War | p. 204 |
The struggle for Chaktreng | p. 205 |
The reconstruction of the monasteries | p. 209 |
Three famous contemporary Amdopas | p. 211 |
The Fourteenth Dalai Lama | p. 212 |
The Tenth Panchen Lama | p. 214 |
The Thirty-Third Menri Gyalwa | p. 216 |
A Glimpse into the future | p. 219 |
Endnotes-Text | p. 222 |
Endnotes-Plate captions | p. 227 |
Bibliography | p. 228 |
Index | p. 237 |
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