Frommer's Italy 2013

by Strachan, Donald; Baldwin, Eleonora; Keeling, Stephen; Moretti, John; Swallow, Nicky; Hogg, Sylvie; Sylvers, Eric

• ISBN13: 9781118278468
• ISBN10: 1118278461
• Edition: 8th
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2012-10-16
• Publisher: Frommers

Summary

Full-color throughout Free full-color, foldout map Completely updated every year Insider advice on avoiding the crowds as you explore some of Italy's greatest gems, from the Uffizi in Florence to the Vatican Museum in Rome, and from the ruins at Pompeii to Venice's St. Mark's basilica. Plus tips for navigating the country's lovely but less-traveled corners, like the Marches, the Dolomites, and even Sardinia. Where to find the absolute best seafood in Venice, the loveliest vineyards in Tuscany, the tastiest pizza in Naples, and, of course, the finest gelato that Italy has to offer. Insightful commentary on Italy's dazzling array of art and architectural masterpieces, from Michelangelo's statue of David to the glories of St. Peter's in Rome. Opinionated reviews. No bland descriptions and lukewarm recommendations. Our expert writers are passionate about their destinations--they tell it like it is in an engaging and helpful way. Exact prices listed for every establishment and activity--no other guides offer such detailed, candid reviews of hotels and restaurants. We include the very best, but also emphasize moderately priced choices for real people. User-friendly features including star ratings and special icons to point readers to great finds, excellent values, insider tips, best bets for kids, special moments, and overrated experiences.

Table of Contents

List of Maps viii

1 THE BEST OF ITALY 1

The Most Unforgettable Italy Experiences 2

The Best City Experiences 3

The Best Food & Drink Experiences 5

The Best Ways to See Italy Like a Local 6

The Best Family Experiences 7

The Best Museums 8

The Best Historic Experiences 9

The Best Charming Small-Town Experiences 11

The Best Free Experiences 12

The Best Gifts to Take Home 14

2 ITALY IN DEPTH 16

Italy Today 17

CUISINE AROUND THE COUNTRY 20

The Making of Italy 22

When to Go 44

ITALY CALENDAR OF EVENTS 45

Responsible Travel in Italy 48

ALL ABOUT VINO 51

3 SUGGESTED ITALY ITINERARIES 53

The Regions in Brief 54

Italy Highlights 61

Italy for Families 64

An Art Lover’s Week in Tuscany Beyond Florence 68

A Whistle-Stop Week in Italy for Food & Wine Lovers 71

Small Cities of the Italian North in 6 Days 73

4 ROME 76

The Best Rome Travel Experiences 77

Essentials 78

FAST FACTS: ROME 87

Exploring Rome 89

THE ETERNAL DRINKING WATER CITY 92

PAPAL AUDIENCES 99

Where to Eat 126

Shopping 145

Entertainment & Nightlife 151

Where to Stay 159

Side Trips from Rome: Tivoli, Ostia Antica & More 181

5 FLORENCE 189

The Best Travel Experiences in Florence 191

Essentials 192

FAST FACTS: FLORENCE 198

Exploring Florence 199

DISCOUNT TICKETS FOR THE CITY 202

ONE MAN & HIS DOME 205

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA 206

Where to Eat 226

FAMILY-FRIENDLY EATING 231

A BIG STEP UP FROM ICE CREAM: FLORENTINE GELATO 234

Shopping 239

Entertainment & Nightlife 244

CAFE CULTURE 246

Where to Stay 248

A Side Trip to Fiesole 262

6 TUSCANY, UMBRIA & THE MARCHES 265

The Best Travel Experiences in Tuscany, Umbria & the Marches 266

The Chianti 267

DINING WITH DARIO 278

TUSCAN TOURS: BIKING, HORSEBACK RIDING & MORE 280

Siena 281

San Gimignano 295

Volterra 300

IN SEARCH OF CRAFTSMANSHIP 301

Lucca 306

CIRCUMNAVIGATING LUCCA’S WALLS 310

Pisa 313

THE BEST OF THE REST OF PISA 319

Arezzo 321

Montepulciano 325

UNDERGROUND TUNNELS & NOBLE WINE 327

Perugia 329

THE CITY OF CIOCCOLATO 332

PERUGIA’S “MEDIEVAL POMPEII” 335

Assisi 337

Gubbio 344

Spoleto 349

Orvieto 355

ORVIETO’S LIQUID GOLD 358

Le Marche 360

7 BOLOGNA & EMILIA-ROMAGNA 373

The Best Travel Experiences in Bologna & Emilia-Romagna 374

Bologna 374

FACTORY OF THE ARTS 380

THE WORLD’S GREATEST CHINA SHOP 392

Ferrara 393

Ravenna 400

Modena 408

THE LAND OF MOTORS 412

Parma 415

SAN MARINO: THE WORLD’S SMALLEST REPUBLIC 422

8 VENICE 424

The Best Travel Experiences in Venice 426

Essentials 427

VENICE BY THE NUMBERS 430

CRUISING THE CANALS 435

VENETIAN DIALECT 436

FAST FACTS: VENICE 437

Exploring Venice 439

VENICE DISCOUNTS 442

AN INSIDER’S LOOK AT THE PALAZZO DUCALE 449

THE ART OF THE GONDOLA 453

Exploring Venice’s Islands 461

CARNEVALE A VENEZIA 464

Where to Eat 467

FISHY BUSINESS 470

FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS 473

Shopping 479

Entertainment & Nightlife 483

Where to Stay 486

9 THE VENETO & THE DOLOMITES 502

The Best Veneto & the Dolomites Travel Experiences 503

The Riviera del Brenta 504

Padua 508

Palladio’s Vicenza 516

STROLL THROUGH PALLADIO’S WORKS 518

Verona 520

ART THOU, TRULY, ROMEO? 522

Treviso 532

THE WINE ROADS FROM TREVISO 534

Bassano del Grappa 536

ITALIAN FIREWATER: GRAPPA 537

Trieste 539

Cortina d’Ampezzo: Gateway to the Dolomites 546

Trent 552

10 MILAN, LOMBARDY & THE LAKES 557

The Best Milan, Lombardy & the Lakes Experiences 558

Milan (Milano) 560

FESTIVALS & MARKETS IN MILAN 561

FAST FACTS: MILAN 567

A TASTE OF BITTER LOVE 577

MILAN IN STYLE 583

STROLLING THROUGH MILAN 586

HOW THE MILANESE UNWIND 588

Bergamo 592

Mantua (Mantova) 597

Lake Garda (Lago di Garda) 602

Lake Como (Lago di Como) 609

Lake Maggiore (Lago Maggiore) & the Borromean Islands 620

11 PIEDMONT & VALLE D’AOSTA 625

The Best Piedmont & Valle d’Aosta Experiences 626

Turin (Torino) 627

FAST FACTS: TURIN 631

PIAZZE & PARKS 636

The Piedmont Wine Country 642

HORSES & DONKEYS 644

Aosta & Valle d’Aosta 649

INTO THE GREAT OUTDOORS 652

MONT BLANC BY CABLE CAR 655

12 GENOA & THE ITALIAN RIVIERA 657

The Best Genoa & Riviera Experiences 658

Genoa (Genova) 660

FAST FACTS: FLORENCE 665

WALK LIKE A GENOVESE 669

The Riviera di Ponente: San Remo 675

THE CAFE & BAR SCENE 679

The Riviera di Levante: Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure & Portofi no 679

AN EXCURSION TO SAN FRUTTUOSO 685

The Cinque Terre 689

13 CAMPANIA: NAPLES, POMPEII & THE AMALFI COAST 700

The Best Campania Travel Experiences 702

Naples 704

The Phlegrean Fields & Herculaneum 730

TREADING LIGHTLY ON MOUNT VESUVIUS 730

Pompeii 735

The Emerald Island of Ischia 740

Sorrento 747

Capri 754

Positano 769

Amalfi 774

Ravello 780

Paestum & Its Glorious Greek Temples 786

The Pontine Islands 787

14 PUGLIA 791

The Best Travel Experiences in Puglia 795

The Valle d’Itria: Trullo Country 796

TRULLI GENIUS 798

THE BEST MASSERIA HOTELS 806

Lecce & the Best of the Salento 808

Bari 814

North of Bari 817

15 SICILY 822

The Best Travel Experiences in Sicily 825

ORGANIZING YOUR TIME 826

Essentials 826

Taormina 830

MEET MIGHTY MOUNT ETNA 835

Siracusa 842

A GIGANTIC TEARDROP RUNS THROUGH IT 849

PADDLING AMONG THE PAPYRUS 850

Piazza Armerina 853

Agrigento & the Valley of the Temples 856

WINE TOURING BETWEEN THE RUINS 860

Selinunte 860

Palermo 863

ESCAPING THE MADNESS 869

THE ORATORIES OF GIACOMO SERPOTTA: PALERMO’S PUTTI-PALOOZA 870

MEN OF DISHONOR 874

STREET EATS 876

Cefalù 885

CLIMBING THE CRAG 886

ON THE ROAD FROM PALERMO 888

The Aeolian Islands 889

16 SARDINIA 898

The Best Sardinia Travel Experiences 900

Essentials 900

Northeastern Sardinia: Costa Smeralda & Maddalena Archipelago 902

Cagliari 912

Southwestern Sardinia 916

Southeastern Sardinia: Villasimius & the Costa Rei 919

17 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO ITALY 921

Getting There 922

Getting Around 924

Tips on Accommodations 931

FAST FACTS: ITALY 933

18 MOLTO ITALIANO 943

Index 947