The Greatest Dishes

by Von Bremzen, Anya

• ISBN13: 9780060197315
• ISBN10: 0060197315
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2004-01-01
• Publisher: HarperCollins Publications

Summary

Award-winning food and travel writer Von Bremzen presents 100 definitive recipes for the world's greatest dishes, with evocative stories about their origins and the author's globetrotting hunt for authenticity.

Excerpts

The Greatest Dishes!
Around the World in 80 Recipes

Classic Macaroni and Cheese

Serves 4 to 6

Cook's Notes

This recipe, while luscious, is a little restrained; if like your mac and cheese extra gooey and are not calorie-conscious, increase the amount of Cheddar by either adding it to the sauce or layering the cooked macaroni and sauce with extra shredded cheese in the baking dish (really gooey). Beer adds a savory note that goes well with the Cheddar; if it seems too unorthodox, substitute 1/3 extra cup of milk.

Ingredients

1 2/3 cups milk
1/3 cup flat lager-style beer
3 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
8 to 10 ounces elbow macaroni
2 1/2 cups shredded extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, or more to taste
6 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, or more to taste
Pinch of freshly ground white pepper
Pinch of grated nutmeg Dash of Tabasco sauce, or more to taste
Salt
5 tablespoons fine white bread crumbs, sautèed in butter if desired

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 450°F. and bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk and beer until almost boiling and take off the heat. (Don't worry if the beer curdles the milk a little.)

In another saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat and sautè the onion until limp but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the flour, and cook the roux for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the milk-beer mixture and cook, whisking, until the sauce is thick, smooth, and bubbly, 5 to 7 minutes. While the sauce is cooking, add the pasta to the boiling water.

Remove the sauce from the heat and stir in the Cheddar, 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan, mustard, pepper, nutmeg, Tabasco, and salt to taste. Taste and adjust the seasonings as you wish.

When the pasta is cooked al dente, about 6 minutes, drain and transfer it to an ovenproof casserole or gratin dish. Immediately pour the cheese sauce over it, mixing it in gently with 2 forks. Do no overstir. Sprinkle evenly with the bread crumbs and the remaining 4 tablespoons of the Parmesan. Bake until the top is golden and bubbly, about 12 minutes.

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Caramelized Lemon Tart

Serves 8 to 10

Cook's Notes

This is my adaptation of Tamasin Day-Lewis's terrific recipe from The Art of the Tart, using my mom's delicious almond pastry. The top of this tart, you'll note, is caramelized with a blowtorch. You can caramelize the tart under a broiler, too, taking care not to burn the crust.

Almond Pastry

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup finely ground blanched almonds
9 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
1 egg yolk, beaten with 2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 to 3 tablespoons ice water

Filling

8 large egg yolks
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups heavy cream
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Finely grated zest from 2 lemons
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar, for caramelizing the top

Make the Almond Pastry: In a food processor, combine the flour, sugar and almonds and pulse two or three times. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and, using two forks, stir in the egg yolk mixture. Gather the dough into a ball, sprinkling on the ice water if it doesn't quite hold together. On a lightly floured surface, flatten the ball into a disk, wrap it in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. (The pastry can be prepared up to 2 days ahead.)

On a floured surface, roll out the pastry to a 14-inch circle. Transfer it to an 11-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, press the dough into the sides of the pan, and trim the overhang. Refrigerate, covered with foil, for 20 minutes.

While the dough is chilling, preheat the oven to 375°F. Remove the pastry from the refrigerator and, without removing the foil, fill the bottom with pie weights or beans. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove the pie weights and the foil, and continue baking for another 10 minutes. Cool slightly on the rack before filling. (The crust can be made up to one day ahead.) Set the oven temperature to 300°F.

Make the filling: In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and vanilla until light and fluffy. Gradually, whisk in the cream, lemon juice, and zest. Set the tart shell on a baking sheet and carefully pour in three-fourths of the custard mixture.

Very carefully, transfer the baking sheet with the tart to the oven. With a ladle, pour in as much of the remaining custard as will fit without overflowing. Bake until the custard is just set but a little wobbly, as it will continue to set out of the oven. This should take 45 to 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack for about 1 hour. Tent the tart loosely the foil and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Just before serving, sift the brown sugar from a small strainer evenly onto the top of the tart. Caramelize the top with a blowtorch, working in a circular motion. (If you don't have a blowtorch, cover the edges of the pastry carefully with foil and broil the tart about 4 inches from the source of heat until the top is bubbly and caramelized, about 10 minutes.) The tart can be served warm or at room temperature.

The Greatest Dishes!
Around the World in 80 Recipes. Copyright © by Anya Von Bremzen. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Available now wherever books are sold.

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Excerpted from The Greatest Dishes!: Around the World in 80 Recipes by Anya Von Bremzen
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