An Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology

by Masselink, Gerhard; Hughes, Michael

• ISBN13: 9780340764107
• ISBN10: 0340764104
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2003-08-14
• Publisher: Hodder Education Publishers

Summary

This comprehensive and in-depth book is an essential reference handbook for students looking to extend their analytical skills and interest in coastal morphodynamics. Fully illustrated throughout, each chapter contains boxed sections designed to aid further study by providing either a furtheranalysis or treatment of a particular issue, an interesting application of a principle just discussed in the body of the text, or a virtual field trip.

Author Biography

Gerhard Masselink is Senior Lecturer in Physical Geography at Loughborough University, UK.

Table of Contents

Preface	viii
Symbols	x
Coastal systems	1	(20)
Introduction	1	(2)
Coastal classification	3	(4)
Morphodynamic approach	7	(5)
Properties of coastal morphodynamic systems	12	(7)
Summary	19	(1)
Further reading	20	(1)
Sea level	21	(24)
Introduction	21	(1)
Indicators of former sea levels	22	(2)
Causes of sea-level change	24	(5)
Pleistocene sea levels	29	(7)
Holocene transgression	36	(3)
Present sea level	39	(4)
Future sea level	43	(1)
Summary	44	(1)
Further reading	44	(1)
Tides	45	(24)
Introduction	45	(1)
The astronomical tide-generating force	46	(5)
The equilibrium theory of tides	51	(6)
The dynamic theory of tides	57	(4)
Predicting tides	61	(3)
Classification of tides	64	(3)
Summary	67	(1)
Further reading	67	(2)
Waves	69	(32)
Introduction	69	(2)
Characteristics and analysis of natural waves	71	(4)
Wave formation and prediction	75	(2)
Linear wave theory	77	(7)
Wave processes outside the surf zone	84	(7)
Wave processes in the surf and swash zone	91	(8)
Summary	99	(1)
Further reading	100	(1)
Sediments, boundary layers and transport	101	(40)
Introduction	101	(1)
Sediment properties	102	(10)
Fluid properties	112	(5)
Benthic boundary layers	117	(7)
Sediment dynamics	124	(10)
Bedforms	134	(5)
Summary	139	(1)
Further reading	140	(1)
Fluvial-dominated coastal environments -- Deltas	141	(24)
Introduction	141	(1)
Galloway's classification of deltas	142	(2)
Generic delta morphology	144	(6)
Delta-front morphodynamics	150	(9)
Delta switching	159	(2)
Coarse-grained deltas	161	(2)
Summary	163	(1)
Further reading	164	(1)
Tide-dominated coastal environments -- Estuaries	165	(30)
Introduction	165	(1)
Estuary morphology	166	(9)
Estuary hydrodynamics	175	(12)
The turbidity maximum zone: Cohesive sediment dynamics	187	(6)
Summary	193	(1)
Further reading	194	(1)
Wave-dominated coastal environments -- Barriers	195	(59)
Introduction	195	(1)
Shoreface	195	(8)
Beaches	203	(25)
Coastal dunes	228	(8)
Barriers and related accumulation features	236	(16)
Summary	252	(1)
Further reading	253	(1)
Rocky coasts	254	(28)
Introduction	254	(1)
Processes	254	(9)
Cliffs	263	(7)
Shore platforms	270	(6)
Other geomorphological features on rocky coasts	276	(2)
A tentative model of rocky coast evolution	278	(2)
Summary	280	(1)
Further reading	280	(2)
Coral reefs and islands	282	(25)
Introduction	282	(1)
Ecology	283	(4)
Reef growth	287	(2)
Types of coral reef	289	(2)
Formation of coral reefs	291	(2)
Reef morphology and Quaternary sea-level changes	293	(7)
Reef islands	300	(5)
Summary	305	(1)
Further reading	306	(1)
Management of coastal erosion	307	(23)
Introduction	307	(1)
Coastal management framework	308	(6)
Coastal management practice	314	(8)
Impact of sea-level rise on coastal environments	322	(6)
Summary	328	(1)
Further reading	329	(1)
References	330	(16)
Location Index	346	(1)
Subject Index	347