An Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology

by Masselink, Gerhard; Hughes, Michael

• ISBN13: 9780340764114
• ISBN10: 0340764112
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2003-08-14
• Publisher: Hodder Education Publishers

Summary

This comprehensive and in-depth book is an essential reference handbook for students looking to extend their analytical skills and interest in coastal morphodynamics. Fully illustrated throughout, each chapter contains boxed sections designed to aid further study by providing either a furtheranalysis or treatment of a particular issue, an interesting application of a principle just discussed in the body of the text, or a virtual field trip.

Table of Contents

Preface	viii
Symbols	x
Chapter 1 Coastal systems	1	(20)
1.1 Introduction	1	(2)
1.2 Coastal classification	3	(4)
1.3 Morphodynamic approach	7	(5)
1.4 Properties of coastal morphodynamic systems	12	(7)
1.5 Summary	19	(1)
1.6 Further reading	20	(1)
Box 1.1 Sediment Budgets and Sediment Balance	11	(4)
Box 1.2 Self-Organization	15	(6)
Chapter 2: Sea level	21	(24)
2.1 Introduction	21	(1)
2.2 Indicators of former sea levels	22	(2)
2.3 Causes of sea-level change	24	(5)
2.4 Pleistocene sea levels	29	(7)
2.5 Holocene transgression	36	(3)
2.6 Present sea level	39	(4)
2.7 Future sea level	43	(1)
2.\ Summary	44	(1)
2.9 Further reading	44	(1)
Box 2.1 Postglacial Rebound	26	(4)
Box 2.2 Derivation of the Pleistocene Eustatic Sea-Level Curve	30	(1)
Box 2.3 Oxygen-Isotope Ratio	31	(14)
Chapter 3: Tides	45	(24)
3.1 Introduction	45	(1)
3.2 The astronomical tide-generating force	46	(5)
3.3 The equilibrium theory of tides	51	(6)
3.4 The dynamic theory of tides	57	(4)
3.5 Predicting tides	61	(3)
3.6 Classification of tides	64	(3)
3.7 Summary	67	(1)
3.8 Further reading	67	(2)
Box 3.1 Derivation of a Pressure-Gradient Force	50	(8)
Box 3.2 When a Tidal Wave is not a Tidal Wave	58	(8)
Box 3.3 Tidal Resonance in Enclosed Basins	66	(3)
Ch\pter 4: Waves	69	(32)
4.1 Introduction	69	(2)
4.2 Characteristics and analysis of natural waves	71	(4)
4.3 Wave formation and prediction	75	(2)
4.4 Linear wave theory	77	(7)
4.5 Wave processes outside the surf zone	84	(7)
4.6 Wave processes in the surf and swash zone	91	(8)
4.7 Summary	99	(1)
4.8 Further reading	100	(1)
Box 4.1 Extreme Height of Natural Waves	74	(9)
Box 4.2 Formation of Wave Groups	83	(13)
Box 4.3 Wave Reflection of Infragravity Waves	96	(2)
Box 4.4 Momentum Flux, Radiation Stress and Wave Set-up	98	(3)
Chapter 5: Sediments, boundary layers and transport	101	(40)
5.1 Introduction	101	(1)
5.2 Sediment properties	102	(10)
5.3 Fl\id properties	112	(5)
5.4 Benthic boundary layers	117	(7)
5.5 Sediment dynamics	124	(10)
5.6 Bedforms	134	(5)
5.7 Summary	139	(1)
5.8 Further reading	140	(1)
Box 5.1 Grain-Packing and its Effect on Sediment Porosity	110	(18)
Box 5.2 Relative Transport Speeds of Large Clast-Sizes	128	(8)
Box 5.3 Acoustic-Visualization of Sediment Suspension over Wave Ripples	136	(5)
Chapter 6: Fluvial-dominated coastal environments - Deltas	141	(24)
6.1 Introduction	141	(1)
6.2 Galloway's classification of deltas	142	(2)
6.3 Generic delta morphology	144	(6)
6.4 Delta-front morphodynamics	150	(9)
6.5 Delta switching	159	(2)
6.6 Coarse-grained deltas	161	(2)
6.7 \ummary	163	(1)
6.8 Further reading	164	(1)
Box 6.1 Gravity-Driven Turbidity Currents	149	(4)
Box 6.2 Flow Velocity in an Axial Jet	153	(3)
Box 6.3 Mixing and Sedimentation in a 'Critical' Plume	156	(9)
Chapter 7: Tide-dominated coastal environments - Estuaries	165	(30)
7.1 Introduction	165	(1)
7.2 Estuary morphology	166	(9)
7.3 Estuary hydrodynamics	175	(12)
7.4 The turbidity maximum zone: Cohesive sediment dynamics	187	(6)
7.5 Summary	193	(1)
7.6 Further reading	194	(1)
Box 7.1 Accretion Rates in an English Salt Marsh	172	(6)
Box 7.2 Spencer Gulf, Australia: An Inverse Estuary	178	(6)
Box 7.3 Synchronicity in New South Wales Estuaries	184	(11)
Chapter 8: Wave-domi\ated coastal environments - Barriers	195	(59)
8.1 Introduction	195	(1)
8.2 Shoreface	195	(8)
8.3 Beaches	203	(25)
8.4 Coastal dunes	228	(8)
8.5 Barriers and related accumulation features	236	(16)
8.6 Summary	252	(1)
8.7 Further reading	253	(1)
Box 8.1 Bar Dynamics on the Dutch Coast	216	(4)
Box 8.2 Macrotidal Ridge and Runnel Beaches	220	(30)
Box 8.3 Beach Ridges along the West Coast of Africa	250	(4)
Chapter 9: Rocky coasts	254	(28)
9.1 Introduction	254	(1)
9.2 Processes	254	(9)
9.3 Cliffs	263	(7)
9.4 Shore platforms	270	(6)
9.5 Other geomorphological features on rocky coasts	276	(2)
9.6 A tentative model of rocky coast \volution	278	(2)
9.7 Summary	280	(1)
9.8 Further reading	280	(2)
Box 9.1 Black Ven: A Coastal Mudslide System	262	(12)
Box 9.2 Shore Platforms on Kaikoura Peninsula, New Zealand	274	(8)
Chapter 10: Coral reefs and islands	282	(25)
10.1 Introduction	282	(1)
10.2 Ecology	283	(4)
10.3 Reef growth	287	(2)
10.4 Types of coral reef	289	(2)
10.5 Formation of coral reefs	291	(2)
10.6 Reef morphology and Quaternary sea-level changes	293	(7)
10.7 Reef islands	300	(5)
10.8 Summary	305	(1)
10.9 Further reading	306	(1)
Box 10.1 Formation of Pacific Island Chains	292	(6)
Box 10.2 Cocos (Keeling) Islands	298	(9)
Chapter 11: Management of \oastal erosion	307	(23)
11.1 Introduction	307	(1)
11.2 Coastal management framework	308	(6)
11.3 Coastal management practice	314	(8)
11.4 Impact of sea-level rise on coastal environments	322	(6)
11.5 Summary	328	(1)
11.6 Further reading	329	(1)
Box 11.1 Coastal Management in the UK: Regional Coastal Management Groups	311	(8)
Box 11.2 Restoration of Miami Beach	319	(7)
Box 11.3 Coastal Vulnerability	326	(4)
References	330	(16)
Location Index	346	(1)
Subject Index	347