Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology

by Robin Davidson-Arnott

• ISBN13: 9780521874458
• ISBN10: 0521874459
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2010-01-25
• Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Summary

Written for undergraduate students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world. Accessible to students from a range of disciplines, the quantitative approach of this book helps to build a solid understanding of wave and current processes that shape coastlines. The resulting processes of erosion, transport and deposition and the features they create are clearly explained, with over 400 illustrations and photographs. From sandy beaches to coral reefs, the major coastal features are related to contemporary processes and to sea-level changes over the past 25,000 years. Key equations describing or predicting measurements from instruments used to map these processes are all presented in this wide-ranging overview. Davidson-Arnott completes this teaching package with online material that brings the subject to life, including videos of coastal processes and virtual field trips.

Table of Contents

Preface	p. ix
Acknowledgements	p. xi
Introduction	p. 1
Introduction	p. 3
Humans and the coastal zone	p. 3
Approaches to the study of coasts	p. 5
Information sources	p. 6
Approach and organisation	p. 7
References	p. 8
Coastal geomorphology	p. 10
Definition and scope of coastal geomorphology	p. 10
The coastal zone: definition and nomenclature	p. 11
Factors influencing coastal morphology and processes	p. 13
References	p. 15
Coastal Processes	p. 17
Sea level fluctuations and changes	p. 19
Synopsis	p. 19
Mean sea level, the geoid, and changes in mean sea level	p. 19
Changes in mean sea level	p. 23
Astronomical tides	p. 29
Short-term dynamic changes in sea level	p. 38
Climate change and sea level rise	p. 45
References	p. 48
Wind-generated waves	p. 52
Synopsis	p. 52
Definition and characteristics of waves	p. 52
Measurement and description of waves	p. 56
Wave generation	p. 65
Wave prediction	p. 70
Wave climate	p. 74
Further reading	p. 76
References	p. 76
Waves - wave theory and wave dynamics	p. 78
Synopsis	p. 78
Wave theories	p. 78
Wave shoaling and refraction	p. 85
Wave breaking	p. 92
Wave groups and low-frequency energy in the surf and swash zones	p. 108
Further reading	p. 112
References	p. 112
Surf zone circulation	p. 116
Synopsis	p. 116
Undertow	p. 116
Rip cells	p. 121
Longshore currents	p. 129
Wind and tidal currents	p. 135
Further reading	p. 135
References	p. 135
Coastal sediment transport	p. 139
Synopsis	p. 139
Sediment transport mechanisms, boundary layers and bedforms	p. 139
On-offshore sand transport	p. 148
Longshore sand transport	p. 155
Littoral sediment budget and littoral drift cells	p. 166
Further reading	p. 176
References	p. 176
Coastal Systems	p. 181
Beach and nearshore systems	p. 183
Synopsis	p. 183
Beach and nearshore sediments and morphology	p. 183
Nearshore morphodynamics	p. 202
Beach morphodynamics	p. 215
References	p. 222
Coastal sand dunes	p. 228
Synopsis	p. 228
Morphological components of coastal dunes and dune fields	p. 229
Plant communities of coastal dunes	p. 231
Aeolian processes in coastal dunes	p. 235
Sand deposition	p. 256
Beach/dune interaction and foredune evolution	p. 258
Management of coastal dunes	p. 268
References	p. 273
Barrier systems	p. 280
Synopsis	p. 280
Barrier types and morphology	p. 280
Barrier dynamics: overwash and inlets	p. 287
Barrier spit morphodynamics	p. 307
Barrier islands	p. 312
Management of barrier systems	p. 317
References	p. 319
Saltmarshes and mangroves	p. 325
Synopsis	p. 325
Saltmarsh and mangrove ecosystems	p. 325
Saltmarshes	p. 328
Mangroves	p. 354
Conservation and management of saltmarshes and mangroves	p. 361
Further reading	p. 362
References	p. 362
Coral reefs and atolls	p. 369
Synopsis	p. 369
Corals and reef formation	p. 370
Geomorphology and sedimentology of coral reefs	p. 375
Impacts of disturbance on coral reefs	p. 389
Further reading	p. 393
References	p. 393
Cliffed and rocky coasts	p. 396
Synopsis	p. 396
Cliffed coast morphology	p. 396
Cliffed coast erosion system	p. 400
Cohesive bluff coasts	p. 409
Rock coasts	p. 424
Shore platforms	p. 427
Management of coastal cliff shorelines	p. 430
Further reading	p. 434
References	p. 434
Index	p. 439
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