Nepal Mountaineering Guide; Route Guide for Mt. Everest and 25 other Peaks

by David Baggaley

• ISBN13: 9781873756744
• ISBN10: 1873756747
• Edition: Original
• Format: Trade Paper
• Copyright: 2011-04-01
• Publisher: Trail Blazer Pubns

Summary

Famous as the home of the world's highest peak and the highest mountain range, Nepal is the ultimate climbers' destination. This new guide, researched and written by members of the British Army, contains route guides to 25 of the world's highest mountains--including the highest one of them all: Mt. Everest. This practical guide includes information on getting to Nepal, organizing an expedition, step-by-step information and maps for climbing 25 peaks in Nepal, a history of climbing in Nepal (by mountaineer Jim Curran), background information on Nepal, plus health, and safety sections.

Author Biography

Major David Baggaley led the British Army team over the two seasons during which the research for this book was done.

Mountaineer Jim Curran wrote the history of mountaineering section.

Table of Contents

Pre-departure planning Climbing in Nepal

Selecting a mountain and climbing style, First steps, When to go, Budgeting, Cost of an expedition

Tipping

Trekking money, Organization and booking, Choosing a commercial guided climb

Semi-commercial organization, Doing it privately, The peaks, Climbing companions, Fitness and training, Clothing and equipment, Visas, Communications, Insurance

Nepal Facts about the country, History of climbing in Nepal, Practical information for the visitor

Immigration

Getting to Nepal

Local transport

Language

Electricity

Time

Money

Post and telecommunications

TV, newspapers and magazines

Holidays and festival

Food

Drink

Things to buy

Security

Kathmandu Expedition planning in Nepal

Minimum Impact and Safe Climbing (including Risk Assessment)

The Peaks Tharpu Chuli, Hiun Chuli, Singu Chuli, Mardi Himal, Chulu West, Chulu Far East , Annapurna IV, Pisang, Paldor, Naya Kanga, Ramdung, Everest, Pumori, Lobuche East, Imja Tse, Kongma Tse, Pokalde, Ama Damblam, Parchamo , Kusum Kanguru, Kwangde Ri, Mera, Baruntse Appendices Health, Nepali words and phrases,

Glossary

Bibliography

Index

Table of Contents provided by Publisher. All Rights Reserved.

Excerpts

Climbing in Nepal
Nepal offers the climber a selection of peaks ranging in height and difficulty to cater for both beginners and the most accomplished mountaineers. For many, climbing in Nepal is part of a natural progression that began in the mountain ranges of home and led to an apprenticeship in the Rockies or Alps, before graduating to the 'Roof of the World'. First-timers to Nepal will, however, quickly feel the difference from their usual stomping grounds in the sheer scale of the mountains, the altitude and the often ferocious weather, all magnified (once off the main trekking routes) by a keen sense of remoteness. As if this wasn't enough to inspire awe and elation in its visitors, the country's considerable natural wonders are balanced by a rich cultural life and an extraordinarily friendly people that have made Nepal a top climbing destination for decades.

The majority of the peaks in the guide are between 5500m (18,045ft) and 6500m (21,326ft), and although they are relatively low compared to the true Himalayan monsters, most offer a challenge greater than can be found in the European Alps. The technically easy peaks, such as Chuli Far East and Pisang, are ideal for those who are trekkers at heart but have secretly dreamed of standing on a Himalayan summit. Others, such as Singu Chuli and Hiun Chuli, offer technical difficulties that demand the very best of any accomplished mountaineer. Moving up the scale, Baruntse (7129m), Pumori (7145m), Annapurna IV (7525m) and the king of them all, Everest (8850m), take the climber into a new dimension as far as altitude is concerned, combined with the continued technical challenge.

Regardless of the peak you have chosen, all climbs in Nepal have some common properties. Firstly, you can expect a longer trek in to base camp than you may have experienced in the Alps. This is despite the now extensive use of light aircraft, mountain airstrips and new roads which have opened up the most popular areas to many people who would not have had the time to undertake a trek in of several weeks. The trek in will take some planning and the level of support you will need will often depend on the remoteness of the peak, the style of the climb and the size of the expedition.

The second consideration, linked to the first, is altitude. While you will undoubtedly save time flying to, for example, Lukla, you will be cheating your body out of the gradual process of s20acclimatisation to high altitudes, as is usually gained through a trek in of weeks. It is always essential to follow a sensible program of acclimatisation, allowing plenty of time to adjust to the changing altitudes during the walk in - and this cannot be overemphasised if you plan to fly to 2500m or above. Those who rush on to base camp jeopardise their lives, let alone their chances of reaching the summit. 'Climb high, sleep low' is the dictum to follow. Altitude can start to have serious effects from as low as 2500m but by setting sensible height gains each day one can gradually acclimatize up to about 4500m. After this it is a matter of adapting to the impact on ones physical performance and realizing that your thought process and powers of reasoning are not only slower but probably not as rational as they are when at sea level.

The third common factor is the weather. No matter how experienced a climber you are, how well organized and equipped your team is, you will not be able to climb if the weather is poor. Waiting for the weather to break while your window of opportunity slowly closes can be one of the most frustrating aspects of an expedition. On occasions, the frustration has got the better of some teams, who have disregarded the lessons of their climbing experience and gone against the odds in bad weather at the cost of their lives. Remember that the mountain will still be there next year.

Climbers in Nepal should also be aware of the limitations of rescue. Even though communications have improved and there are now emergency helicopters based in Kathmandu, for the most part, expeditions will have to rely on themselves in getting a casualty off the mountain to a point where they can be evacuated by road or air. Helicopters have a rescue ceiling of around 5000m, and may take several days to reach a party depending on weather conditions and availability.

Finally there are your expedition porters and climbing sherpas, without whom you will not be able to proceed. If you are employing the services of a trekking company, it is important that they adhere to the government guidelines on rates of pay and treatment of the porters. You may require a few high altitude porters to assist with establishing an advanced base camp or beyond. They will need similar clothing and equipment to you, which you may have to supply, and you will also be responsible for their safety up and down the route. If you are considering using climbing sherpas, remember that they are competent mountaineers and should be treated as equal climbing partners. Be firm, fair and friendly and listen to the advice of your sirdar and sherpas before making any decisions.

Selecting a Mountain and Climb Style

The guide offers a variety of mountains to climb and f0eighteen of them fall into the category of 'Trekking Peaks', a title which usually belies their technical difficulty. A look at the peak grades (see p.000) will dispel any impression that any are easy walks, but some (mostly those graded as 1 or 2) involve relatively straightforward ascents to the summit and back in one day from an advanced base camp. The level 3 and above peaks may require several camps to be put in place and the use of fixed ropes. The trend in recent years has been for alpine style ascents (to climb and carry all you need in one go, without the need for equipment dumps or fixed rope) but this requires a very high degree of climbing fitness, technical competence and excellent acclimatisation. But the more traditional method of (leaving camps along the route, which provide safe havens to retreat to during bad weather or for resting), is still used by most climbers on peaks that take more than one day to climb from an advanced base camp.

The style you choose will, of course, depend on how you think you best will be able to climb your selected peak. Alpinists carrying their camp up the mountain with them need little support and less time to complete the climb, but with a greatly reduced safety margin. They are on the mountain alone with no camp to retreat to, and no fixed rope at any difficult section for a speedy descent. The alternative of establishing camps and if necessary placing fixed rope, is a much slower way of climbing, but does allow for steady acclimatisation. It is also less exhausting if teams within the expedition are used to establish the camps and climb the mountain. Obviously the latter method is necessary for most of people on the technically difficult peaks or the higher mountains such as Everest, and sometimes high altitude porters are employed to carry each camp to a point from which the climbers can attempt the summit without further camps. On technically difficult peaks this would have to be done by the team members themselves which may include climbing sherpas.

---

Excerpted from Nepal Mountaineering Guide by David Baggaley
All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.