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| Preface | ix | ||
| Acknowledgments | xix | ||
| Guguletu, South Africa, via New York City | 3 | (10) | |
| Harvard | 13 | (7) | |
| You've Got to Come in Right | 20 | (11) | |
| Context | 31 | (6) | |
| Paul Theroux Is Smarter Than I Am | 37 | (8) | |
| How Could We Have Let This Happen? | 45 | (3) | |
| South Africa's Greatest In-Liner (By Next Year This Time) | 48 | (4) | |
| Lundi's Story | 52 | (17) | |
| A Full-Service Station | 69 | (5) | |
| Bereavement Call | 74 | (3) | |
| A Domestic's Day | 77 | (4) | |
| Nairobi Hilton | 81 | (7) | |
| When Charity Isn't Enough | 88 | (4) | |
| Mother's Day | 92 | (4) | |
| Where Vengeance Begins | 96 | (4) | |
| Paradise Road | 100 | (3) | |
| Mrs. Merrick's Sister-in-Law and I | 103 | (5) | |
| A Few Missing Bananas | 108 | (5) | |
| Two Bars on a Saturday Night | 113 | (3) | |
| The Nelly | 116 | (9) | |
| Heroes | 125 | (10) | |
| Remembering Sibongile | 135 | (6) | |
| Sick in Kigali | 141 | (14) | |
| Difficult Situations | 155 | (6) | |
| Insomnia | 161 | (9) | |
| Never Give Up | 170 | (4) | |
| "Enkosi Kakhulu" (Thank You Very Much) | 174 | (14) | |
| Epilogue | 188 |
