Please to the Table The Russian Cookbook

by Von Bremzen, Anya; Welchman, John

• ISBN13: 9780894807534
• ISBN10: 0894807536
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 1990-01-11
• Publisher: Workman Publishing Company

Summary

From the robust foods of the Baltic states to the delicately perfumed pilafs of Azerbaijan, from borscht and beef stroganoff to the grains and yogurts of Georgia, Anya von Bremzen and John Welchman take Westerners on a spectacular tour of the many and varied cuisines of the fifteen former Soviet republics. Anya von Bremzen, a native Muscovite, grew up on regional cooking and has traveled extensively throughout the former Soviet Union, visiting professional chefs, touring markets, and sampling and gathering dishes. Covering eleven time zones and hundreds of recipes, Please to the Table brings to light the astounding culinary diversity of this corner of the world-and the similarities between the cuisines, too. Here are Byelorussion Mushroom Croquettes, Armenian Stuffed Mussels, and dozens of other zakuski-the "little bites" that are the heart and soul of Russian meals. Soups from Armenian Lentil and Apricot Soup to Lithuanian Apple Soup with Apple Dumplings. Dozens of entrees including Uzbek Lamb Pilaf, Russian Salmon with Sorrel and Spinach, Azerbaijani Quail in Walnut and Pomegranate Sauce, Armenian Pumpkin Moussaka. And side dishes, salads, beverages, and desserts such as Russian Cranberry Mousse and an Almond and Pistachio Paklava. Plus vatrushki, pampushki, halushki, blinchiki, sirniki, and pirozhki. Winner of the 1990 James Beard Food and Beverage Book Award. Selection of the Book-of-the-Month Club's Homestyle Books and the Better Homes & Gardens Family Book Service. 58,000 copies in print. Priy.tnova Apetita-good appetite!

Author Biography

Like most of the culinary world, food and travel writer Anya von Bremzen has Spain on the brain. But unlike those who have recently discovered Spain's sophisticated flavors and innovative charms, Anya has spent the last 10 years writing about Spanish cuisine and culture. A contributing editor at Travel + Leisure, she has pioneered Spanish cuisine in publications like Food & Wine, Departures, Conde Nast Traveler and the LA Times.

In her latest tour de force, The New Spanish Table, Anya reveals the Spain she knows and loves, peppering delicious recipes with historical tidbits, cooking hints and true Spanish hospitality.
In addition to The New Spanish Table, Anya is the author of four ethnic cookbooks, including the James Beard Award-winning Please to the Table: The Russian Cookbook, Terrific Pacific Cookbook, The Greatest Dishes!: Around the World in 80 Recipes, and Fiesta! A Celebration of Latin Hospitality, which won Anya her second Beard award.

When she's not in Spain or traveling to some exotic locale to try a new restaurant, Anya lives in New York City.

John Welchman, who is also the co-author of Please to the Table: The Russian Cookbook, is an art historian and travel writer whose articles have appeared in The New York Times, International Herald Tribune, The Village Voice, The Economist, and Artforum. He is a professor of art history at the University of California, San Diego.

Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION: CULINARY ROUTES THE SOVIET REPUBLICS AT A GLANCE APPETIZERS Zakuski "You must make sure that your mind dwells on nothing but the wineglass and the appetizer," said Anton Chekhov. Accompany chilled shots of vodka with a glittering array of little dishes-Caviar Tartlets, Tiny Meatballs with Pine Nuts and Raisins, Swordfish with Zesty Tomato Sauce. A most inviting way to begin a meal. SOUPS Supi Much more than borscht: fragrant Pomegranate Broth from Azerbaijan; hearty Byelorussian Wild Mushroom and Noodle Soup; Armenian Lentil and Apricot Soup-so gorgeous in taste and color; refreshing chilled summer coolers. Ingenious combinations of flavor and seasoning. SALAD Salati Cod garnished with cornichons, potatoes enhanced by Bulgarian feta and lots of dill, a classic Salad Olivier. Beautifully composed and mixed salads, simply dressed, as luncheon or first-course dishes. RUSSIAN CUISINE BEEF AND VEAL DISHES Govyadina i Telyatina Catherine the Great preferred her beef boiled with pickled cucumbers and a sauce of smoked reindeer tongues. Not to everyone's taste, perhaps, but here are perfectly marinated Georgian Beef Kabobs, a piquant Veal and Quince Stew, the classic Beef Stroganoff, and of course, boiled beef-no reindeer tongues, but with two savory sauces. LAMB DISHES Baranina Enticing ways with lamb. Choice cuts combine with exotic spices and fresh herbs to create grilled kebabs from Uzbekistan, a warming lamb casserole from Georgia, and a yogurt-enriched Armenian stir-fry. PORK DISHES Svinina "Pork is the real hero of the feast," or so thought Nikita Vsevoldovich Vselolzhsky, a nineteenth-century gourmet. Garlicky sausages with pomegranate seeds from Georgia. Rich satisfying pork and sauerkraut from the Ukraine. Luscious roast suckling pig. Exquisite aromas fill your house as you feast. POULTRY AND GAME DISHES Ptitsa i Dich Crispy Chicken Kiev; Grilled Chicken with Garlic and Walnut Sauce; and the classic Chicken Pozharsky, a dish immortalized by Alexander Pushkin. In Russia, when company is expected, a hostess turns to her extensive collection of Poultry recipes. FISH DISHES Riba ". . . There's nothing I'd rather do than fish," reflected Anton Chekhov. Sturgeon and smelts, carp, haddock, and the sweetest, most delicate-tasting trout; Baked Fish with Eggplant and Pomegranate Sauce; and an elegant Steamed Salmon with Sorrel and Spinach Sauce. BALTIC CUISINE VEGETABLE DISHES Ovoshchi In the Soviet Union there is a simple reverence for an unblemished potato or a splendid, crunchy carrot. Unpretentious dishes are prepared from cabbage and beets. But there are also savory wild mushrooms, eggplant ragout, the quintessential fried potatoes. And a host of irresistible stuffed vegetables. GEORGIAN CUISINE RICE AND GRAINS Ris i Krupi It is said that while swooping through Central Asia, Alexander the Great summoned a local soldier and bade him prepare a dish that would be proper nurture to a fighting man, an inspiration in taste. Of course, the soldier brought back his best pilaf. CENTRAL ASIAN CUISINE DUMPLINGS AND NOODLES Izdeliya iz Testa Vareniki, Pelmeni, Haluski, Manti, and more. All the wonderful dumplings and their fillings-potato, meat, sauerkraut, sour cherry, and creamy cheese. BREADS AND SAVORY PIES Khleba i Piroghi Together with salt, bread is the ancient symbol of Slavic hospitality. In fact, a Soviet house without it would be unthinkable. Riga Rye Bread, Steamed Cilantro Buns, Kulebiaka, Khachapuri, Pirozhki, and Pirogs-a selection of fragrant loaves and luscious savory pies. UKRANIAN CUISINE BRUNCH AND TEA DISHES Zavtraki i Chai An elegant table laden with tartlets, lovingly filled crepes, and delicate cookies. Accompanying all this, a beautiful samovar to keep the tea warm. FROM THE PANTRY Domashniye Zagotovki Jars of crunchy Armenian Mixed Pickles, Moldavian Red Pepper Relish, Sweet and Sour Beet Salad. No Soviet meal is complete without at least on tantalizing side dish. F