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lt's funny how merchants in the market generally resemble their produce. The farmer selling gnarled old carrots and turnips always sports hands that advertise his long hard labor in the sun. The lady offering pristine little rounds of goat cheese manages to reflect a prim, proper, tidy life. Raymond Chapuis, who supplies me with first-of-season asparagus, tender peas, firm and shiny zucchini, and gorgeous fava beans, is always trim, neatly dressed, and sporting a well-kept beard and a hearty smile. I see him at the Tuesday market in Vasion-la-Romaine, then again on Wednesdays in Saint-Rémy. His wife, Simone, kindly shared this favored asparagus flan. Note that for this recipe you need only the tender tips, which in Provence are sold separately. The stems can be steamed, puréed, and blended with chicken stock to prepare a soup.
EQUIPMENT: A 10 1/2-inch round Porcelain gratin dish; a vegetable steamer.
1 pound thin green asparagus tips (about 2 cups)
4 ounces smoked slab bacon, rind removed, cut into cubes (1 cup)
1 cup light cream
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
Fine sea salt to taste
Freshly ground white pepper to taste
Wine Suggestion: This delicate spring flan calls for a floral white, perhaps one with a Viognier base. Try the vin de pays from the reputable Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyard Domaine de la Janasse.
On the theory that "what grows together, goes together," all I need do is look out my kitchen window and find the makings of this marvelous salad: Myriad varieties of tomatoes and basil from the potager, and pine nuts from our towering parasol pines. (Okay, I don't harvest the pine nuts, but they do inspire!) If you have access to a good nut oil, pine nut oil is best -- but good walnut or hazelnut oil are far from shabby substitutes. Even a very green herbaceous olive oil, like those from the Alpes de Haut Provence, would not be out of place here.
Layer the sliced tomatoes on a large platter, overlapping as necessary. Season with salt, Sprinkle with the pine nuts and the basil. Drizzle with the lemon juice and the oil. Season gently with salt, generously with pepper. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes to allow flavors to mellow. Serve as a first course or as part of a buffet.
6 ripe, red tomatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds) cored, peeled, and sliced lengthwise
Excerpted from The Provence Cookbook by Patricia Wells
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