Rock Climbing for Instructors

by Richardson, Alun

• ISBN13: 9781861264220
• ISBN10: 1861264224
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2001-09-01
• Publisher: TRAFALGAR SQUARE

Summary

Rock climbing is an exhilarating and spectacular sport that is attracting more people than ever before. Illustrated throughout, this book is written for those climbers starting out on their instructing career.

Table of Contents

Acknowledgements	8	(1)
Introduction	9	(2)
Towards effective instructing	11	(23)
The effective instructor	11	(1)
Accepting responsibility	12	(1)
Safe instructing	12	(2)
Legal considerations	14	(2)
The instructor -- First Impressions	16	(1)
Developing a Good Rapport	17	(1)
Communication Skills	18	(4)
How Students Learn	22	(1)
Reviewing and Feedback	23	(2)
The Tools of Instructing	25	(2)
Working with Young People	27	(1)
Climbing for All	28	(6)
Movement Skills	34	(39)
Teaching Movement	35	(1)
The Way we Learn Movement	36	(2)
Using Demonstration and Practice	38	(1)
Spotting	38	(2)
Warming up, Warming Down and Stretching	40	(1)
The Ideal Venue for Teaching Movement	41	(1)
Movement Exercises	42	(1)
The Relationship Between Body Position and Footwork	43	(1)
Footwork	44	(5)
How to use Handholds	49	(2)
The Importance of Opposing Pressure	51	(2)
The Importance of Body Position	53	(3)
Techniques as the Rock Becomes Steeper	56	(4)
Learning to Rest and Avoid the Pump	60	(1)
Dynamic Movements (DYNOS)	61	(1)
Crack Climbing Technique	62	(2)
Learning to Read Moves	64	(1)
Improving Body Awareness	65	(1)
Teaching Movements on Routes	66	(1)
Helping Students to Control their Fear	67	(4)
The Art of Falling	71	(1)
Teaching Communications (Climbing Calls)	72	(1)
Physical Training	73	(24)
The Basics of Training	74	(2)
Elements of Fitness Training	76	(1)
A Good Start	77	(1)
Physical Training not Involving Climbing	77	(2)
Fitness Training that Mimics Climbing	79	(2)
Physical Training Using Climbing	81	(2)
Training Junior Climbers	83	(1)
Training Novice to Intermediate Climbers	84	(1)
Training Intermediate to Advanced Climbers	84	(1)
Nutrition for Climbers	85	(4)
Improving Flexibility	89	(8)
The Climbing Environment	97	(10)
Using Outdoor Crags	97	(5)
Using Climbing Walls	102	(5)
Equipment	107	(31)
Forces and Falling	107	(3)
Ropes	110	(6)
Webbing (Tapes) and Rope Slings	116	(2)
Footwear	118	(2)
Clothing	120	(1)
Helmets	120	(1)
Harnesses	121	(2)
Karabiners	123	(2)
Belay and Abseiling Devices	125	(3)
Pegs and Bolts	128	(3)
Nuts	131	(2)
Spring-Loaded Camming Devices	133	(2)
Ascenders	135	(1)
Solo Devices	136	(1)
Chalk	137	(1)
Ropework and Safety Skills	138	(55)
Knots and Hitches	138	(5)
Single-Pitch Climbing	143	(4)
Belaying	147	(5)
Placing Protection	152	(10)
Attaching the Rope to the Runners	162	(4)
Creating a Belay	166	(3)
Abseiling	169	(2)
Multi-Pitch Climbing	171	(2)
Further Considerations for Sport Climbing	173	(6)
Considerations when Instructing on Single-Pitch Climbs	179	(5)
Ropework for Teaching Lead Climbing on a Single-Pitch Climb	184	(1)
Ropework for Guiding or Teaching on Multi-Pitch Climbs	185	(3)
Multi-Pitch Abseiling	188	(3)
Miscellaneous	191	(2)
Solving Problems	193	(17)
Accident Avoidance	193	(1)
The Tools	194	(3)
Solving Problems on Single-Pitch Crags	197	(2)
Solving Problems on Sea Cliffs and Multi-Pitch Crags	199	(1)
Techniques While Attached to a Belay	200	(2)
Escaping From the Belay	202	(2)
What to do Once you Have Escaped	204	(4)
Rescuing a Leader Fall	208	(1)
Solo Climbing	209	(1)
Aid Climbing	210	(8)
What is Aid Climbing?	210	(1)
Equipment	210	(2)
Placing Aid	212	(1)
Basic Aid Technique	213	(1)
Tension Traverses and Pendulums	214	(1)
Hauling	215	(1)
Ascending/Cleaning an Aid Pitch	215	(3)
Scrambling	218	(8)
Equipment	219	(1)
Scrambling Techniques	219	(7)
Coastal and River Activities	226	(9)
Sea Level Traversing and Coasteering	226	(3)
Gorge Walking (Ghyll Scrambling)	229	(3)
Specialist Techniques for Canyoning	232	(3)
APPENDIX	235	(3)
National Mountain Training Awards	235	(1)
Useful Addresses	236	(1)
Further Reading	237	(1)
Index	238