Rock Climbing : Mastering Basic Skills

by Luebben, Craig

• ISBN13: 9780898867435
• ISBN10: 0898867436
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2004-03-01
• Publisher: Mountaineers Books

Summary

Craig Luebben has taught rock climbing basics to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the U.S. Here he presents the most common foot positions, hand grips, and body positions and how to use them precisely, from the smear to the crimp to the twistlock. Going beyond static moves, he emphasizes a dynamic style of movement for the greatest climbing efficiency-a style that makes the most of your strength and your time on the rock. With an emphasis on safety and how to stay within your abilities, Luebben teaches how to evaluate potential hazards and then avoid them.

Author Biography

Craig Luebben is a senior contributing editor for Climbing magazine. The author of several books on climbing, he has opened many new climbing routes across five continents

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments	10	(1)
Introduction	11	(2)
How to Use This Book	13	(8)
CHAPTER 1 Face Climbing-Dancing on the Rock
Footwork	21	(4)
Handholds	25	(5)
Body Position	30	(3)
Moving on Rock	33	(8)
CHAPTER 2 Crack Climbing-Climbing Cracks from Fingertip Width to Full-Body Chimneys
Splitters and Corners	41	(1)
Finger Jams	41	(2)
Hand and Foot Jams	43	(1)
Moving Up the Crack	44	(1)
Fist Jams	45	(2)
Off-size Cracks	47	(2)
Off-width Cracks	49	(5)
Squeeze Chimneys	54	(1)
Chimneys	54	(7)
CHAPTER 3 Climbing Gear-Outfitting for the Climb
Belay Devices	61	(1)
Carabiners	62	(3)
Chalkbag	65	(1)
Clothing	65	(1)
Cord	66	(1)
Crash Pad	66	(1)
Harness	67	(1)
Helmet	68	(2)
Quickdraws	70	(1)
Shoes	70	(1)
Rope Bags and Tarps	71	(1)
Ropes	72	(5)
The Ten Essentials	77	(1)
Webbing Slings	77	(3)
CHAPTER 4 Knots-Bringing the Rope to Life
Harness Tie-in Knots	80	(1)
Knots for Tying into Anchors	81	(5)
Knots for Tying Webbing and Cord into Loops	86	(3)
Knots for Joining Rappel Ropes and Top-ropes	89	(1)
Rappel Safety Knots	89	(5)
Knots for Attaching Slings	94	(1)
Hitch for Rappelling and Belaying	94	(4)
CHAPTER 5 Belay Anchors and Lead Protection-Protecting Traditional Climbs
The Evolution of Climbing Anchors	98	(2)
Chocks	100	(2)
Camming Units	102	(6)
Ball Nuts	108	(1)
Big Bro Expandable Tubes	109	(1)
The Climbing Rack	110	(2)
Natural Protection	112	(1)
Fixed Protection	113	(1)
Equalizing Protection	114	(1)
Opposing Protection	115	(1)
The V-angle	115	(1)
Rigging Multidirectional Anchors	116	(1)
Rigging Anchors with a Cordelette	117	(2)
Rigging Belay Anchors with Slings	119	(1)
Rigging Belay Anchors with the Climbing Rope	120	(2)
The Daisy Chain	122	(1)
Keeping the Belayer Down	122	(4)
CHAPTER 6 Belaying-Keeping Your Partner Safe
Rigging a Belay Device	126	(1)
Belayer Position and Anchoring	126	(3)
Belaying a Top-roped Climber	129	(2)
Belaying a Leader	131	(1)
Catching a Fall	131	(1)
Lowering a Climber	132	(1)
Belaying with a Munter Hitch	132	(1)
Belaying with a GriGri	133	(2)
Belaying the Second Climber	135	(3)
Communication Signals	138	(5)
CHAPTER 7 Top-roping-Climbing with the Safety of an Overhead Rope
Setting a Slingshot Top-rope	143	(3)
Climbing with a Slingshot Top-rope	146	(1)
Passing a Knot	146	(2)
Managing a Top-belay Top-rope	148	(5)
CHAPTER 8 Sport Climbing-Climbing Bolt-protected Routes
Sport-climbing Hazards	153	(1)
Climbing Style	154	(1)
Climbing the Route	155	(5)
Lowering from the Route	160	(4)
Belaying a Sport Route	164	(2)
Onsighting a Route	166	(1)
Working a Route	167	(1)
The Redpoint	168	(1)
Bailing from a Sport Route	169	(5)
CHAPTER 9 Traditional Lead Climbing-Leading with Protection from Nuts and Cams
Traditional Rack	174	(1)
Topos	175	(1)
The Approach	175	(2)
The Route	177	(1)
Leading Strategy	178	(1)
The Protection System	179	(8)
The Physics of Falling	187	(1)
Keeping Your Head	188	(3)
Bailing	191	(1)
Following a Pitch	191	(1)
The First Lead	192	(4)
CHAPTER 10 Multipitch Free Climbs-Climbing High and Free
The Two-person Team	196	(4)
Rope Management	200	(2)
Where to Belay	202	(1)
Hanging Belays	202	(1)
Fast and Light	203	(1)
Extra Gear for a Long Route	204	(1)
Time Budget	205	(1)
Three-person Teams	206	(6)
CHAPTER 11 Getting Down-Returning to Earth
Walking Off	212	(1)
Downclimbing	213	(1)
Lowering	214	(1)
Rappelling	214	(23)
CHAPTER 12 Bouldering-Leaving the Rope at Home
The Bouldering Session	237	(2)
Bouldering Variety	239	(1)
Falling	240	(1)
Spotting	240	(3)
Bouldering Hazards	243	(1)
Environmental Considerations	243	(5)
CHAPTER 13 Training-Improving Your Mental and Physical Fitness for Rock Climbing
Warming Up	248	(1)
Work Your Weaknesses	248	(1)
Improving Technique	249	(1)
Power and Endurance	249	(2)
Climbing Strength	251	(1)
Balance	252	(1)
Training the Brain	253	(1)
Hydration and Nutrition	253	(1)
Resting	254	(6)
CHAPTER 14 Climbing Safe-Avoiding and Escaping Bad Situations
Self-rescue and First-aid Training	260	(1)
Self-rescue Gear	261	(1)
Friction Hitches	261	(2)
Load-releasable Knots	263	(3)
Ascending a Rope	266	(3)
Escaping a Belay	269	(5)
The Next Step	274	(2)
Hauling Your Partner	276	(5)
Rappelling Past a Knot	281	(2)
Tandem Rappel to Evacuate an Injured Partner	283	(3)
Appendix A-Climbing Rating Systems	286	(2)
Appendix B-Suggested Reading	288	(1)
Appendix C-Climbing Resources	289	(1)
Glossary	290	(7)
Index	297