9780898867435

Rock Climbing : Mastering Basic Skills

by
  • ISBN13:

    9780898867435

  • ISBN10:

    0898867436

  • Format: Paperback
  • Copyright: 3/1/2004
  • Publisher: Mountaineers Books

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Summary

Craig Luebben has taught rock climbing basics to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the U.S. Here he presents the most common foot positions, hand grips, and body positions and how to use them precisely, from the smear to the crimp to the twistlock. Going beyond static moves, he emphasizes a dynamic style of movement for the greatest climbing efficiency-a style that makes the most of your strength and your time on the rock. With an emphasis on safety and how to stay within your abilities, Luebben teaches how to evaluate potential hazards and then avoid them.

Author Biography

Craig Luebben is a senior contributing editor for Climbing magazine. The author of several books on climbing, he has opened many new climbing routes across five continents

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments 10(1)
Introduction 11(2)
How to Use This Book 13(8)
CHAPTER 1 Face Climbing-Dancing on the Rock
Footwork
21(4)
Handholds
25(5)
Body Position
30(3)
Moving on Rock
33(8)
CHAPTER 2 Crack Climbing-Climbing Cracks from Fingertip Width to Full-Body Chimneys
Splitters and Corners
41(1)
Finger Jams
41(2)
Hand and Foot Jams
43(1)
Moving Up the Crack
44(1)
Fist Jams
45(2)
Off-size Cracks
47(2)
Off-width Cracks
49(5)
Squeeze Chimneys
54(1)
Chimneys
54(7)
CHAPTER 3 Climbing Gear-Outfitting for the Climb
Belay Devices
61(1)
Carabiners
62(3)
Chalkbag
65(1)
Clothing
65(1)
Cord
66(1)
Crash Pad
66(1)
Harness
67(1)
Helmet
68(2)
Quickdraws
70(1)
Shoes
70(1)
Rope Bags and Tarps
71(1)
Ropes
72(5)
The Ten Essentials
77(1)
Webbing Slings
77(3)
CHAPTER 4 Knots-Bringing the Rope to Life
Harness Tie-in Knots
80(1)
Knots for Tying into Anchors
81(5)
Knots for Tying Webbing and Cord into Loops
86(3)
Knots for Joining Rappel Ropes and Top-ropes
89(1)
Rappel Safety Knots
89(5)
Knots for Attaching Slings
94(1)
Hitch for Rappelling and Belaying
94(4)
CHAPTER 5 Belay Anchors and Lead Protection-Protecting Traditional Climbs
The Evolution of Climbing Anchors
98(2)
Chocks
100(2)
Camming Units
102(6)
Ball Nuts
108(1)
Big Bro Expandable Tubes
109(1)
The Climbing Rack
110(2)
Natural Protection
112(1)
Fixed Protection
113(1)
Equalizing Protection
114(1)
Opposing Protection
115(1)
The V-angle
115(1)
Rigging Multidirectional Anchors
116(1)
Rigging Anchors with a Cordelette
117(2)
Rigging Belay Anchors with Slings
119(1)
Rigging Belay Anchors with the Climbing Rope
120(2)
The Daisy Chain
122(1)
Keeping the Belayer Down
122(4)
CHAPTER 6 Belaying-Keeping Your Partner Safe
Rigging a Belay Device
126(1)
Belayer Position and Anchoring
126(3)
Belaying a Top-roped Climber
129(2)
Belaying a Leader
131(1)
Catching a Fall
131(1)
Lowering a Climber
132(1)
Belaying with a Munter Hitch
132(1)
Belaying with a GriGri
133(2)
Belaying the Second Climber
135(3)
Communication Signals
138(5)
CHAPTER 7 Top-roping-Climbing with the Safety of an Overhead Rope
Setting a Slingshot Top-rope
143(3)
Climbing with a Slingshot Top-rope
146(1)
Passing a Knot
146(2)
Managing a Top-belay Top-rope
148(5)
CHAPTER 8 Sport Climbing-Climbing Bolt-protected Routes
Sport-climbing Hazards
153(1)
Climbing Style
154(1)
Climbing the Route
155(5)
Lowering from the Route
160(4)
Belaying a Sport Route
164(2)
Onsighting a Route
166(1)
Working a Route
167(1)
The Redpoint
168(1)
Bailing from a Sport Route
169(5)
CHAPTER 9 Traditional Lead Climbing-Leading with Protection from Nuts and Cams
Traditional Rack
174(1)
Topos
175(1)
The Approach
175(2)
The Route
177(1)
Leading Strategy
178(1)
The Protection System
179(8)
The Physics of Falling
187(1)
Keeping Your Head
188(3)
Bailing
191(1)
Following a Pitch
191(1)
The First Lead
192(4)
CHAPTER 10 Multipitch Free Climbs-Climbing High and Free
The Two-person Team
196(4)
Rope Management
200(2)
Where to Belay
202(1)
Hanging Belays
202(1)
Fast and Light
203(1)
Extra Gear for a Long Route
204(1)
Time Budget
205(1)
Three-person Teams
206(6)
CHAPTER 11 Getting Down-Returning to Earth
Walking Off
212(1)
Downclimbing
213(1)
Lowering
214(1)
Rappelling
214(23)
CHAPTER 12 Bouldering-Leaving the Rope at Home
The Bouldering Session
237(2)
Bouldering Variety
239(1)
Falling
240(1)
Spotting
240(3)
Bouldering Hazards
243(1)
Environmental Considerations
243(5)
CHAPTER 13 Training-Improving Your Mental and Physical Fitness for Rock Climbing
Warming Up
248(1)
Work Your Weaknesses
248(1)
Improving Technique
249(1)
Power and Endurance
249(2)
Climbing Strength
251(1)
Balance
252(1)
Training the Brain
253(1)
Hydration and Nutrition
253(1)
Resting
254(6)
CHAPTER 14 Climbing Safe-Avoiding and Escaping Bad Situations
Self-rescue and First-aid Training
260(1)
Self-rescue Gear
261(1)
Friction Hitches
261(2)
Load-releasable Knots
263(3)
Ascending a Rope
266(3)
Escaping a Belay
269(5)
The Next Step
274(2)
Hauling Your Partner
276(5)
Rappelling Past a Knot
281(2)
Tandem Rappel to Evacuate an Injured Partner
283(3)
Appendix A-Climbing Rating Systems 286(2)
Appendix B-Suggested Reading 288(1)
Appendix C-Climbing Resources 289(1)
Glossary 290(7)
Index 297

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