Textiles and Text Re-establishing the links between Archival and Object-based Research

by Hayward, Maria; Kramer, Elizabeth

• ISBN13: 9781904982265
• ISBN10: 1904982263
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2007-12-28
• Publisher: Archetype Books

Summary

"This publication focuses on the interrelationship between archival and bibliographic research and the study of extant objects. Papers consider how archival and bibliographic research can inform our knowledge of textiles and dress in terms of their production, consumption, dissemination and deterioration and in turn, how the study of extant objects can give added depth to this analysis. The authors include conservators, curators, historians and conservation scientists."--BOOK JACKET.

Table of Contents

Foreword
Introduction
Into the archive
Researching the domestic interior: the example of the 'Chintz Lady! Elsie de Wolfe	p. 3
'I have bought cloth for you and will deliver it myself': using documentary sources in the analysis of the archaeological textile finds from Quseir al-Qadim, Egypt	p. 10
What Essex man wore: an investigation into Elizabethan dress recorded in wills 1558 to 1603	p. 18
Abundant images and scant text: reading textile pattern books	p. 23
Recovering identity: the role of textual evidence in identifying forgotten azlon fibres from the mid-20th century	p. 29
Adopting other strategies, using other sources
'Wherein Taylors may finde out new fashions': constructing the Costume Research Image Library (CRIL)	p. 37
Unlocking one facet of Henry VIII's wardrobe: an investigation of the base	p. 45
A portrait, two dresses, two samplers and a burning steamship	p. 52
(Ad)Dressing the century: fashionability and floral frocks	p. 58
Sound recording and text creation: oral history and the Deliberately Concealed Garments Project	p. 65
Uncovering institutions
Late medieval Ladies of the Garter, 1348-1509: fact or fiction?	p. 73
Lace and documents: the Istituzioni di Ricovero e Educazione (IRE) collections in Venice	p. 76
Undated, unattributable and unfinished: forgotten samplers and their re-evaluation through archival research	p. 82
Tracing textiles in trade: from account books to patents
Fashioning the Tudor court	p. 93
Costume at the court of Cosimo and Eleonora de Medici: on fashion and Florentine textile production	p. 105
Bought, stolen, bequeathed, preserved: sources for the study of 18th-century petticoats	p. 114
Analysing patents and objects: a preliminary investigation into the crinolines of W. S. Thomson	p. 122
Patents as a source of information about synthetic textile dyes	p. 128
The interaction between East and West
A paradise of pretty girls: the kimono and perceptions of Japan	p. 135
Dragon robes and prairie ladies: the incongruity between archives and artefacts	p. 143
Chasing the dragon: researching Chinese textiles in early 20th-century domestic interiors	p. 149
Domesticity and gender explored and challenged
'A Linnen Pockett a prayer Book and five keys': approaches to a history of women's tie-on pockets	p. 157
The antimacassar in fact and fiction: how textual resources reveal a domestic textile	p. 164
'Inoffensively feminine': First World War military concert parties, female impersonators and their costumes	p. 173
Inspiring textile collections: textiles and text combined in Winchester School of Art Library and in the Special Collections, Hartley Library, University of Southampton Libraries	p. 182
Collaborative approaches: curators, conservators and dress historians
Thistles and Thrissels: Scottish Covenanting flags of the 17th and early 18th century	p. 189
Dye analysis, textiles and text: unravelling the puzzle of Queen Charlotte's state bed	p. 197
Joining forces: the intersection of two replica garments	p. 204
Information uncovered by conservation
Understanding the full story: acknowledging intimate interactions of textiles and text as both help and hindrance for preservation	p. 213
The interaction of textile and text: the conservation of a mid-16th-century chemise binding	p. 221
The investigation and documentation of a communion table carpet in Corpus Christi College, Oxford	p. 225
Who put the text in textiles? Deciphering text hidden within a 1718 coverlet: documentation of papers hidden within an early 18th-century coverlet using transmitted light photography	p. 237
Jewish ceremonial textiles and the Torah: exploring conservation practices in relation to ritual textiles associated with holy texts	p. 244
A flag's life in New York: The New York State Battle Flag Preservation Project	p. 249
Objects without documentation: the role of conservation science in revealing more about these artefacts
Collecting a near infrared spectral database of modern textiles for use of on-site characterisation	p. 257
Photodegradation of Phormium tenax fibres: the role of naturally occurring coumarins	p. 264
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