The New copy of this book will include any supplemental materials advertised. Please check the title of the book to determine if it should include any access cards, study guides, lab manuals, CDs, etc.
The Used, Rental and eBook copies of this book are not guaranteed to include any supplemental materials. Typically, only the book itself is included. This is true even if the title states it includes any access cards, study guides, lab manuals, CDs, etc.
In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance. They deliver detailed instruction on how to plan and execute training tailored to your individual circumstances. Whether you work as a banker or a mountain guide, live in the city or the country, are an ice climber, a mountaineer heading to Denali, or a veteran of 8,000-meter peaks, your understanding of how to achieve your goals grows exponentially as you work with this book. Chapters cover endurance and strength training theory and methodology, application and planning, nutrition, altitude, mental fitness, and assessing your goals and your strengths. Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd. Filled with photos, graphs, and illustrations.
Steve House is a world renowned climber, mountain guide, and Patagonia Ambassador, widely regarded for his light-and-fast style. He has published articles in a number of periodicals, and he is the author of Beyond the Mountains (Patagonia Books, 2009). He lives in Ridgway, CO. Scott Johnston, who grew up in Boulder, CO, has ski raced on a national and international level and is an avid climber. He currently coaches several of the nation’s top cross country skiers, and climbs, establishing local climbing routes in and around his home town of Mazama, WA, in the North Cascades, where he lives.
Table of Contents
Foreword: The Edge of the Map, by Mark Tight
Introduction: The Old Becomes New Again
Chapter 1: Training for the New Alpinism First Steps, Missteps, by Steve House Don’t EpicKeep it Under Control, by Ueli Steck
Section 1: The Physiology and Methods of Training
Chapter 2: The Methodology of Endurance Training The Alpinist as Athlete Getting Results, by Steve House The Two Types of Training Transitions, by Zoe Hart A Brief Discussion of Physiology Basics The Adaptation to a Training Stimulus The Training Effect The Guiding Principles: Continuity, Gradualness, and Modulation Specificity Preparation for Success The Individuality of Training Understanding the Language of Intensity Training Cycles Periodization Fatigue and Recovery: How They are Related Forty Years of Climbing, by Christophe Moulin Monitoring Your Training Returning to Training after a Break Overtraining Deep Fatigue on Kunyang Chish East, by Steve House Overtraining Can Lead to Overuse Injury What Should You Feel? TINSTAAFL: There Is No Such Thing As A Free Lunch, by Mark Twight
Chapter 3: The Physiology of Endurance Training The Evolution of Endurance The Aerobic Base The North Face of the North Twin, by Steve House Fuels for Energy Fitness, Fat, and Fuel, by Scott Johnston The Physiology of Endurance Boosting Your Aerobic Power More Pieces of the Aerobic Fitness Puzzle Ultra-Training, by Krissy Moehl Putting All the Pieces Together The Base is Crucial Training for Alpine Climbing in the Former USSR, by Alexander Odintsov
Chapter 4: The Theory of Strength Training Strength: Even for Endurance Athletes? The Difference Between Power and Work, by Tony Yaniro Strength on Mount Alberta, by Steve House
Chapter 5: The Methodology of Strength Training What is Strength? What is Strength Training? Why Should Climbers Train Strength? How Strength Training Works After Injury: The Long, Long Road Back, by Tony Yaniro Women and Strength Lifting Weights Strength Training Terms and Concepts Core Strength Periodization for Strength Training The Value of Specific Strength Training, by Tony Yaniro
Section 2: Planning Your Training
Chapter 6: Assessing Your Fitness Maximizing Your Fitness Judging Your Current Strengths Twelve Hundred Feet, by Caroline George Setting Goals The Quest to Climb Everest in a Day, by Chad Kellogg
Chapter 7: Transitioning into Training Listen to Your Body The Training Log Training Plans: Steve’s Transition Period before Makalu 2009 Planning Your Transition Period Strength Training During the Transition Period Core Strength in the Transition Period Bowls of JellO, Links of a Chain, by Scott Johnston General Strength Training in the Transition Period
Chapter 8: Planning Your Base Period Training The Importance of the Base Training is Teamwork, by Roger Schaeli Fitting Strength Training into Your Base Period Plan Max Strength Period Conversion to Muscular Endurance Period p Building Your Own Base Period Endurance Plan Marathon Pace, by Kelly Cordes
Chapter 9: Climb, Climb, Climb Planning the Climbing-Specific Period Training to Perform, by Will Gadd Building Your Specific Period Plan
Chapter 10: Tapering Taper Timing
Section 3: Tools for Training
Chapter 11: Nutrition: Eating with Purpose Eating for Climbing Performance The Components of Food Learning to Fuel, by Steve House Key Nutritional Knowledge Eating While Training for Alpine Climbing Three Sisters in a Day on Only M&M’s, by Scott Johnston Post-Training Nutrition Eating While Alpine Climbing Hitting the Wall, by Vince Anderson A Few Case Studies in Eating While Alpine Climbing, by Steve House Hydration Eat with Purpose A Conversation with Peter Habeler, by Steve House
Chapter 12: Altitude: Climbing Higher, Faster Altitude Physiology Basics How to Acclimate: Two Strategies My First 8,000er, by Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner High Altitude: Your First Time Acclimatizing: Tips and Tricks Climb and Acclimatize, by Marko Prezelj Can You Pre-Acclimate at Your Low-Elevation Home? Preparing Your Body to Go High The Khumbu Cough, by Steve House Expedition Eating, by Steve Swenson Hydration at High Altitude Sleeping at Altitude How Fast Do You De-Acclimate? Altitude Illnesses and Their Causes Alone with HAPE, by Steve House Be Tough and Smart The Art of Suffering, by Voytek Kurtyka
Chapter 13: Mental Fitness: The Most Difficult 80 Percent The Mental/Physical Balance Eighty Percent, by Steve House Your Ideal Mental State for Climbing? Motivation The Unbreakable Will, by Stefan Siegrist Emotion Prepare Yourself to Suffer, by Jean Troillet Fear Practicing Failing, by Scott Johnston On Fear, by Danika Gilbert Fulfillment Concentration Flow The Climb of the Future: 5.13c in 1978, by Tony Yaniro Confidence The Necessity of Cycles, by Andreas Fransson Transcendence Non-Laziness and Practice
Section 4: Train, Practice, Climb
Chapter 14: Training by Climbing Going Climbing Versus Training for Climbing Your Best Days Climbing Planning a Year’s Climbing as Training Cold and Hungry, by Scott Semple Planning the Individual Periods Mileage on the Real Thing, by Colin Haley A Base Period of Climbing Take a Road Trip Les Droites, by Barry Blanchard Climb! Recuperate and Regenerate Two Attempts on the Southeast Face of Jyzyl-Asker, by Inis Papert
Chapter 15: The Art of Self-Knowledge
References Recommended Reading Appendix: Helpful Nutrition Tables Glossary Index