The World of Fashion Merchandising

by Wolfe, Mary G.

• ISBN13: 9781566378918
• ISBN10: 1566378915
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2002-01-01
• Publisher: Goodheart-Willcox Pub

Summary

Brings to life the business aspects of the fashion world. It presents the basics of market economics, textiles, design, and promotion.

Table of Contents

Part 1 Basic Fashion and Business Concepts
The Meaning of Clothing and Fashion	17	(16)
Reasons for Wearing Clothing	17	(5)
Physical Need	17	(2)
Psychological Needs	19	(1)
Social Needs	20	(2)
Why People Select Certain Clothes	22	(2)
Values and Attitudes	22	(1)
Conformity Versus Individuality	23	(1)
Personality Traits	23	(1)
Needs Versus Wants	23	(1)
Ongoing Fashion Perspectives	24	(3)
Fashion as Art and Science	24	(2)
Private and Public Fashion Viewpoints	26	(1)
Economic, Political, and Other Influences on Fashion	26	(1)
Fashion Terminology	27	(6)
Fashion Movement	33	(12)
Understanding Fashion Movement	33	(2)
Fashion Leaders and Followers	34	(1)
Theories of Fashion Movement	35	(1)
The Trickle-Down Theory	35	(1)
The Trickle-Up Theory	35	(1)
The Trickle-Across Theory	36	(1)
The Fashion Cycle	36	(4)
Stages of the Fashion Cycle	36	(2)
The Overall Fashion Cycle	38	(1)
Length of Fashion Cycles	38	(2)
Principles of Fashion Movement	40	(1)
The Role of Consumer Acceptance or Rejection in Establishing Fashions	40	(1)
Fashion Acceptance and Price	40	(1)
Sales Promotion and Fashion	40	(1)
Fashion Movement: Evolutionary, Not Revolutionary	40	(1)
Fashion Extremes---Reversals or Abrupt Changes	40	(1)
Factors That Speed Up Slow Fashion Movement	40	(3)
Factors that Speed Up Fashion Movement	40	(2)
Factors that Slow Down Fashion Movement	42	(1)
The Importance of Fashion Change	43	(2)
Basic Economic Concepts	45	(14)
The Free-Market System	46	(2)
Profit Motivation	46	(1)
The Significance of Competition	47	(1)
The Supply and Demand Relationship	47	(1)
Impacts on Society	48	(1)
Competitive Market Structures	48	(2)
Basic Forms of Business Organizations	50	(3)
Sole Properietorships	50	(1)
Partnerships	51	(1)
Corporations	51	(2)
Business Cycles	53	(1)
The Concept of Marketing	53	(3)
Product	54	(1)
Price	54	(1)
Place	55	(1)
Promotion	56	(1)
The Concept of Merchandising	56	(3)
Substance of the Fashion Industry	59	(16)
The Soft Goods Chain	59	(2)
The Textile Segment	60	(1)
The Apparel Segment	60	(1)
The Retail Segment	61	(1)
The Four-Groups Approach	61	(2)
Primary Group	62	(1)
Secondary Group	62	(1)
Retail Group	62	(1)
Auxiliary Group	62	(1)
Vertical Integration	63	(1)
Commodity, Fashion, and Seasonal Goods	64	(1)
Other Textile End-Use Industries	65	(3)
Household Textile Products	65	(2)
Industrial Textile Products	67	(1)
The Home Sewing Industry	67	(1)
Fashion Industry Associations and Publications	68	(2)
Trade Associations	68	(2)
Trade Publications	70	(1)
Geographic Locations of Industry Segments	70	(5)
Satisfying the Fashion Market	75	(20)
Market Growth and Share	75	(1)
Market Segmentation	76	(2)
Demographics	77	(1)
Psychographics	77	(1)
Market Research	78	(2)
Methods of Market Research	79	(1)
Product Development	80	(1)
Fashion Industry Information Technology	81	(6)
Codes and Printers	81	(2)
Optical Scanners	83	(1)
Technology Disadvantages	84	(1)
Open Systems	85	(1)
Electronic Data Interchange	85	(2)
Cooperation for Industry Excellence	87	(2)
Quick Response	87	(1)
Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation	88	(1)
Other Partnerships	89	(1)
Improving the Industry's Image	89	(6)
Business Concerns	89	(6)
Part 2 Textile/Apparel Building Blocks
Textile Fibers and Yarns	95	(20)
Natural Fibers	95	(7)
Cotton	96	(1)
Wool	97	(1)
Silk	98	(1)
Flax (Linen)	99	(1)
Other Natural Fibers	99	(1)
Marketing Natural Fibers	100	(2)
Leather and Fur	102	(3)
Leather	102	(2)
Fur	104	(1)
Manufactured Fibers	105	(6)
Categories of Manufactured Fibers	105	(1)
Characteristics of Manufactured Fibers	106	(3)
Fiber Innovation	109	(1)
The Latest Fiber Trends	109	(1)
The Marketing of Manufactured Fibers	110	(1)
Spinning Fibers into Yarns	111	(4)
Yarn Blends and Textures	113	(1)
The Marketing of Yarn	113	(2)
Textile Fabrics and Finishes	115	(22)
Fabric Design and Construction	115	(8)
Weaving	116	(3)
Knitting	119	(2)
Other Construction Methods	121	(2)
Fabric Finishing	123	(4)
Bleaching	123	(1)
Dyeing	123	(1)
Printing	124	(2)
Finishes	126	(1)
Quality and Performance Standards	127	(1)
The Textile Industry	128	(2)
Technology	128	(1)
Fashion	129	(1)
Marketing	129	(1)
Selling the Finished Fabrics	130	(2)
Trade Information	132	(1)
The Future of Textiles	132	(5)
Part 3 Designing and Producing Apparel
Using Design in Fashion	137	(20)
Using the Elements of Design	137	(11)
Color	137	(7)
Shape	144	(1)
Line	145	(2)
Texture	147	(1)
Using the Principles of Design	148	(4)
Balance	148	(1)
Proporation	149	(1)
Emphasis	150	(1)
Rhythm	151	(1)
Harmony	152	(1)
Illusions Created by Design	152	(5)
The Fashion Design Segment	157	(24)
Price Market Categories of Apparel	157	(3)
Designer	158	(1)
Bridge	158	(1)
Better	159	(1)
Moderate	159	(1)
Budget	160	(1)
Collection Showings	160	(1)
Capitalizing on Name Recognition	161	(3)
Secondary Lines	163	(1)
House Boutiques	163	(1)
Licensing	163	(1)
Franchising	164	(1)
Sewing Patterns	164	(1)
The Designing Process	164	(4)
Sources of Inspiration	166	(1)
Using Technology In Fashion Design	167	(1)
World Fashion Design Centers	168	(4)
United States	168	(1)
France	168	(1)
Italy	169	(1)
Great Britain	169	(1)
Other European Fashion Centers	169	(1)
Canada	169	(1)
Central and South America	170	(1)
Japan	170	(1)
China and Hong Kong	170	(1)
Taiwan	171	(1)
South Korea	171	(1)
Other World Locations	171	(1)
Some Influential Fashion Designers	172	(4)
U.S. Fashion Awards and Associations	176	(5)
Ready-to-Wear Manufacturing	181	(18)
The Business of Apparel Manufacturing	182	(3)
Competitive Strategies	182	(2)
Fashion Seasons and Lines	184	(1)
Garment Districts	185	(1)
Inside and Outside Shops	185	(2)
Pros of Using Contractors	186	(1)
Cons of Using Contractors	186	(1)
Pre-Production Procedures	187	(4)
Selecting and Costing the Designs	188	(1)
Editing the Line	189	(1)
Pre-Cutting Processes	189	(1)
Cutting	190	(1)
Apparel Production	191	(3)
Traditional Tailor System	191	(1)
Progressive Bundle System	191	(1)
Unit Production System	191	(1)
Modular Manufacturing	192	(2)
Finishing	194	(1)
Employer Concerns	194	(1)
Offshore Production	195	(4)
Wholesale Apparel Marketing and Distribution	199	(20)
Inventory Management	199	(2)
Inventory Planning and Execution	200	(1)
Benchmarking for Quality Products	201	(1)
Quality Programs	201	(1)
Trademark Protection	202	(1)
Technological Advances in Apparel Manufacturing	203	(2)
Computer-Integrated Manufacturing	204	(1)
Ideas About the Future	205	(1)
Selling the Finished Apparel	205	(6)
Selling Locations	207	(1)
Sales Expertise	208	(2)
Sales Promotion	210	(1)
Distribution of the Finished Apparel	211	(3)
Order Processing	212	(1)
Merchandise Shipping	212	(2)
Apparel Industry Trade Information	214	(5)
Part 4 Retail Business Fundamentals
The Retail Segment	219	(17)
Functional Areas of Fashion Retail Firms	220	(1)
Main Types of Apparel Retailers	221	(12)
Department Stores	223	(1)
Chain Stores	224	(1)
Discount Stores	224	(3)
Specialty Stores	227	(1)
Nonstore Retailers	228	(3)
Other Types of Fashion Retailing	231	(2)
Store Ownership Group	233	(1)
Retail Trade Associations and Publications	233	(3)
Retail Positioning	236	(19)
Targeting a Specific Market	236	(3)
Understanding Buying Motives	237	(2)
Differentiating from Competitors	239	(3)
Presenting an Image	241	(1)
Product Strategy	242	(2)
Merchandise Selection	242	(1)
Service Selection	243	(1)
Price Strategy	244	(2)
The Price/Quality Relationship	245	(1)
Specific Pricing Approaches	245	(1)
Place Strategy	246	(5)
Site Location	246	(1)
Types of Store Clusters	247	(2)
Market Coverage in Site Selection	249	(1)
Facilities Design	249	(2)
Promotion Strategy	251	(1)
Recent Trends in Retail Positioning	252	(3)
Efficiency for Shoppers	252	(1)
Entertainment Plus Shopping	252	(3)
Retail Merchandise	255	(21)
Women's Apparel	256	(2)
Women's Apparel Sizes	256	(2)
Women's Apparel Classifications	258	(1)
Men's Apparel	258	(6)
Production of Menswear Lines	261	(1)
Men's Apparel Sizes and Classifications	262	(2)
Infants' and Children's Apparel	264	(4)
Attitudes Related to Childrenswear	264	(2)
Infantswear Sizes and Desirable Features	266	(1)
Toddlers' Sizes and Features	266	(1)
Childrenswear Sizes	267	(1)
Apparel for Older Children	267	(1)
Additional Features of Childrenswear	267	(1)
Accessories	268	(4)
Footwear	269	(1)
Hosiery	269	(1)
Handbags and Small Leather Goods	270	(1)
Belts	271	(1)
Jewelry	271	(1)
Headwear	271	(1)
Scarves	271	(1)
Neckties	271	(1)
Handwear	272	(1)
Cosmetics Industry Products	272	(4)
Planning to Buy	276	(18)
The Merchandise Planning Function	277	(1)
Gathering Planning Information	277	(2)
Availability of Internal Information	277	(2)
Availability of External Information	279	(1)
Preparing Buying Plans	279	(4)
Financial Planning and Control	280	(1)
Assortment Planning	281	(2)
Additional Planning Considerations	283	(1)
Ongoing Inventory Management	284	(1)
Selecting Merchandise Sources	285	(9)
Types of Merchandise Sources	285	(2)
Evaluating Vendor Attributes	287	(1)
Selecting Specific Sources	288	(1)
Brand Names Versus Private Label Merchandise	288	(2)
Offshore Sourcing	290	(4)
Merchandise Buying	294	(19)
Market Weeks	294	(3)
Advantages of Market Weeks for Retail Buyers	295	(2)
Advantages of Market Weeks for Vendors	297	(1)
Trade Shows	297	(1)
Apparel Marts	298	(2)
Domestic Fashion Markets	300	(2)
New York	300	(1)
Los Angeles	301	(1)
Dallas	301	(1)
Chicago	301	(1)
Miami	302	(1)
Atlanta	302	(1)
Other Domestic Market Centers	302	(1)
Buying Foreign Goods	302	(2)
Helpful Buying Resources	304	(2)
Resident Buying Offices	304	(1)
Other Buying Resources	305	(1)
Market Trip Strategies	306	(2)
Visits to Vendors	306	(2)
Making Merchandise Decisions	308	(1)
Writing the Orders	308	(5)
Types of Orders	309	(4)
Part 5 Strategies for Retail Success
Communicating Information	313	(18)
Internal Business Communication	313	(2)
Lines of Authority	314	(1)
The Communication Process	315	(1)
Nonverbal Communication	316	(1)
Verbal Communication Skills	317	(7)
Reading Skills	318	(1)
Listening Skills	318	(1)
Speaking Skills	319	(1)
Writing Skills	320	(3)
Telephone Use	323	(1)
Computer Skills	323	(1)
Technology for Information Management	324	(4)
Information Management	324	(1)
Electronic Communication via Computer Technology	325	(1)
Other Communication Aids	326	(2)
Communication Technology Advancement	328	(3)
Concepts for Successful Selling	331	(17)
The Direct Selling Function	331	(4)
Sales Clerks Versus Sales Associates	332	(1)
Customer-Oriented Selling	333	(1)
Sales Goals and Rewards	334	(1)
Creating a Selling Environment	335	(4)
Stockkeeping Duties	335	(1)
Keeping the selling Floor in Order	336	(1)
Gaining Merchandise Knowledge	337	(2)
Using the Selling Steps Effectively	339	(5)
Approach and Greeting	339	(1)
Classifying Customers	340	(1)
Presentation of Merchandise	340	(1)
Overcoming Objections	341	(1)
Closing the Sale	342	(1)
Supplementary Suggestions	342	(1)
Maintaining Relationships	343	(1)
Merchandise Sales Transactions	344	(4)
Methods of Payment	345	(1)
Returns, Exchanges, and Other Adjustments	346	(2)
Calculating for Best Results	348	(13)
Financial Records	348	(1)
The Operating Statement	348	(3)
Net Sales	350	(1)
Inventory Cost Calculations	350	(1)
Gross Margin	350	(1)
Expenses	351	(1)
Profit/Loss	351	(1)
Comparative Analysis	351	(3)
Operating Ratios	351	(1)
Selling Space Performance	352	(1)
Other Sales Analysis	353	(1)
Expense Management	354	(1)
Pricing Considerations	354	(2)
Other Pricing Strategies	355	(1)
The Cost of Overbuying	355	(1)
Pricing Calculations	356	(5)
Markups	356	(1)
Price Reductions	357	(1)
Markdown Strategies	358	(1)
Maintained Markup	359	(2)
Service, Safety, and Security	361	(18)
Customer Service	361	(7)
Assessing Service Quality	363	(2)
Service Features	365	(3)
Credit and Other Payment Services	368	(3)
Retail Credit Cards	369	(1)
Retail-Affiliated Credit Card Banks	370	(1)
Other Electronic Processing	370	(1)
Safety	371	(1)
Customer Safety	371	(1)
Employee Safety	371	(1)
Store Security	372	(7)
External Theft	373	(1)
Internal Theft	373	(2)
Loss Prevention Programs	375	(4)
Part 6 Fashion Promotion
Fashion Promotion Through Advertising and the Press	379	(18)
Fashion Promotion	379	(6)
The Purposes of Fashion Promotion	380	(1)
Promotion Levels	380	(1)
Promotion Planning	381	(1)
Putting the Promotion Program into Action	382	(1)
Calculating Total Promotion Expenses	383	(1)
Allocating Promotion Budgets	384	(1)
Promotion Ethics	384	(1)
Advertising	385	(8)
Purposes of Advertising	385	(1)
Types of Advertising	385	(2)
Using Advertising Agencies and Freelancers	387	(1)
Advertising Strategy	388	(1)
Forms of Advertising Media	388	(4)
Developing Effective Print Advertisements	392	(1)
Public Relations	393	(1)
The Fashion Press	394	(3)
Visual Merchandising	397	(20)
The Importance of Visual Merchandising	397	(1)
The Store Interior	397	(3)
Selling Area Layout	399	(1)
Store Decor	400	(1)
Merchandise Presentation	400	(5)
Merchandise Fixtures	401	(3)
Merchandise Arrangements on Walls	404	(1)
Interior Displays	405	(7)
Components of Displays	407	(3)
Planning Interior Displays	410	(2)
Window Displays	412	(5)
Advantages and Disadvantages of Window Displays	412	(1)
Types of Displays Windows	413	(4)
Special Event Fashion Shows	417	(24)
Purposes	417	(1)
Types of Fashion Shows	418	(1)
Planning Fashion Shows	419	(4)
The Fashion Show Coordinator	420	(1)
Pinpointing the Audience	420	(1)
Deciding on the Theme	421	(1)
Timing and Location for the Show	421	(1)
Safety and Security Considerations	422	(1)
Budget Planning	422	(1)
Coordinating Merchandise and Models	423	(6)
Merchandise Selection	423	(3)
Model Selection	426	(1)
The Fittings and Lineup	427	(2)
Coordinating Physical Layout, Music, Choreography, and Commentary	429	(5)
The Physical Layout	429	(2)
The Music	431	(1)
The Choreography	432	(1)
The Commentary	432	(2)
Promoting and Presenting the Show	434	(1)
Invitations, Tickets, and Programs	435	(1)
Rehearsals and Show Time!	435	(2)
Follow-Up and Evaluation	437	(4)
Part 7 Fashion Business in Today's World
A Global Perspective	441	(16)
Trade Trends and Policy	441	(3)
Free Trade Versus Protectionism	442	(2)
World Trade Organization	444	(1)
The Relationship of Textiles/Apparel to Developing Nations	444	(1)
Trade With Developing Nations	445	(1)
The World's Major Trade Regions	446	(3)
Asia-Pacific Plus India	446	(1)
Europe Plus North Africa	447	(1)
The Americas	447	(2)
International Sourcing for U.S. Fashion Importing	449	(2)
Methods of Offshore Sourcing	450	(1)
International Market Opportunities for U.S. Fashion Exporting	451	(4)
International Retailing	453	(1)
Satisfying Market Differences	453	(2)
Discovering the Offshore Sources and Opportunities	455	(2)
The Latest Fashion Business Trends	457	(22)
Satisfying a Changing Consumer Market	457	(4)
The Importance of Demographics and Psychographics	459	(2)
Niche Marketing	461	(3)
Database Research for Niche Marketing	463	(1)
Trends in Retail Formats	464	(6)
Discount Retailing	464	(2)
Nonstore Retailing	466	(1)
Multi-Channel Retailing	467	(3)
Survival Business Strategies	470	(3)
Horizontal Restructuring of the Industry	470	(2)
Vertical Restructuring of the Industry	472	(1)
Employee Training and Service	473	(1)
Technology Leading to Customization	473	(6)
Part 8 Your Future in the Fashion Industry
Is a Fashion Career in Your Future?	479	(16)
An Overview of the Field of Fashion	479	(3)
Steps Along a Career Path	480	(1)
Job Levels Along the Way	481	(1)
Selecting a Career Path	482	(4)
Evaluate Yourself	483	(2)
Evaluate Careers	485	(1)
Strive Toward the Needed Training and Experience	486	(4)
Educational Requirements	487	(1)
Gaining Experience	488	(2)
What Compensation Can You Expect?	490	(1)
Additional Compensation	490	(1)
Ethical and Legal Issues of Employment	491	(1)
Workplace Diversity	492	(1)
Maintaining High Ethical Standards	492	(1)
Fashion Industry Future for Employment	492	(3)
Textile and Apparel Careers	495	(19)
A Career in the Textile Industry	496	(6)
Textile Research and Development	496	(2)
Textile Design Employment	498	(3)
Textile Production	501	(1)
A Career in the Apparel Industry	502	(7)
Fashion Design	502	(3)
Apparel Manufacturing	505	(4)
Textile and Apparel Sales and Distribution	509	(5)
Sales Positions	511	(1)
Distribution Jobs	511	(3)
Retail Careers	514	(15)
Is a Retail Career in Your Future?	514	(3)
Retail Sales Positions	517	(2)
The Merchandise Management Career Track	519	(5)
Retail Buyers	519	(4)
Merchandise Managers	523	(1)
Fashion Director	523	(1)
The Operations Management Career Track	524	(1)
Other Retail Employees	524	(5)
Stockkeeping Employees	525	(1)
Additional Retail Jobs	525	(4)
Promotion Careers	529	(15)
Communicating Fashion	529	(9)
Modeling	529	(4)
Fashion Photography	533	(1)
Fashion Writing	534	(4)
Visual Merchandising	538	(1)
Fashion Advertising	539	(3)
Advertising Director	539	(1)
Account Executive	540	(1)
Media Buyers	541	(1)
Art Director	541	(1)
Other Advertising Design Jobs	541	(1)
Public Relations	542	(2)
Entrepreneurship and Other Fashion-Related Careers	544	(14)
Entrepreneurship	544	(8)
personal Traits to Succeed as an Entrepreneur	544	(2)
Factors to Consider When Starting Your Own Business	546	(1)
Entrepreneurial Opportunities	547	(5)
Other Fashion-Related Careers	552	(6)
The Home Sewing Industry	552	(1)
Theatrical Costuming	553	(2)
Clothing Care	555	(1)
Clothing Preservation	555	(1)
Education	556	(2)
Gaining Success in the Fashion Industry	558