Yankee Rock & Ice A History of Climbing in the Northeastern United States

by Waterman, Laura; Waterman, Guy

• ISBN13: 9780811731034
• ISBN10: 0811731030
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2001-12-01
• Publisher: Stackpole Books

Summary

Celebrated climbers Guy and Laura Waterman trace the growth of this popular sport by focusing on the first ascents of classic routes and the climbers who made them legendary: John Case on the Adirondacks' Indian Head and Wallface; Robert Underhill and Lincoln O'Brien on Cannon; Fritz Wiessner on Breakneck Ridge. More contemporary climbers Jim McCarthy, Henry Barber, Lynn Hill, and Hugh Herr are described in full detail. Ethics and style, the evolution of ice climbing, the changing role of women in climbing, and developments in technique and equipment are explored.

Table of Contents

Preface	p. v
Acknowledgments	p. ix
Introduction	p. xv
The Prehistory of Northeastern Climbing: Before 1916	p. 1
A New Form of Exploration: 1916-1927	p. 15
The Classic Routes: 1928-1933	p. 27
It's a Grand Old Flagg	p. 41
Mountaincraft: Ethics and Style in Prewar Climbing	p. 53
The First Ice Age: Before 1927	p. 65
Huntington Ravine: 1928-1945	p. 74
Anniversary Waltz in Pinnacle Gully	p. 87
Fritz Wiessner	p. 94
Rock Climbing for Fun: 1934-1945	p. 102
The Gunks Discovered: 1935-1945	p. 117
World War II as a Watershed in Northeastern Climbing History	p. 126
The Conservative Tradition--Rock: The 1950s and 1960s	p. 133
The Conservative Tradition--Ice: The 1950s and 1960s	p. 148
Young Turks, Old Bootleggers, Vulgarians, and a Boston Tea Party	p. 154
Chasing Ghosts on the Armadillo	p. 164
Breakthrough on Rock: 1957-1966	p. 170
On Beyond 5.10: 1967-1973	p. 181
Clean Climbing	p. 193
The Rack and the Theory of the Expanding Universe	p. 201
Quiet in the North Country: Before 1970	p. 205
Streibert and Barber	p. 216
North Conway Renaissance: 1970-1979	p. 226
Higher Standards throughout the Northeast: The 1970s	p. 240
The Many Faces of Group Dynamics	p. 250
Revolution on Ice: 1969-1976	p. 253
Emergence of Climbing as a Popular Sport	p. 269
Restoring Parity: The Reemergence of Women in the 1980s	p. 282
Can Women Lead on Ice?	p. 291
5.13 and Beyond	p. 295
Lake Willough by and the Quandary of Northeastern Ice during the 1980s	p. 303
Education in Verticality--a Short Comedy or Farce in Four Scenes	p. 314
Climbing at the Crossroads: Ethics and Style Questions for the 1990s	p. 318
Index	p. 325
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