Fashion : From Concept to Consumer

by Frings, Gini Stephens

• ISBN13: 9780130335715
• ISBN10: 0130335711
• Edition: 7th
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2002-01-01
• Publisher: PRENTICE HALL

Summary

For Introduction to the Fashion Industry, Introduction to the Fashion Business, Fashion Merchandising, Fashion Marketing, Fashion Manufacturing, Fashion Design, and Fashion Analysis courses. Fashion: From Concept to Consumer tells the entire story of how the fashion business works in sequential order from concept to consumer. It includes the processes involved with producing raw materials, apparel, and accessories, as well as the retail businesses that sell fashion merchandise to the public. Each chapter contains a career focus, chapter objectives, review questions, terminology, and projects to aid in reviewing the subject matter. It is a valuable tool for anyone who wants to know more about fashion and the fashion business.

Table of Contents

Foreword	xix
Preface	xxi
Acknowledgments	xxiii
Part One The Fundamentals of Fashion	1	(86)
Fashion Development	3	(26)
France, the Center of Fashion	4	(2)
Fashion Dictated by Royalty	4	(1)
Hand Sewing by Dressmakers and Tailors	4	(1)
Growth of the Couture	5	(1)
Effects of the Industrial Revolution on Fashion	6	(1)
Growth of the Textile Industry	6	(1)
Growth of the Middle Class	6	(1)
Establishment of the Business Suit	6	(1)
Mass Production of Clothing	7	(2)
Invention of the Sewing Machine	7	(1)
Women's Fashion Reflects Social Changes	8	(1)
Mass Production of Women's Separates	8	(1)
Children's Fashion	9	(1)
Retailing During the Nineteenth Century	9	(2)
The First Department Stores	10	(1)
Early Mail-Order Merchandising	11	(1)
Changes Caused by Communications, Leisure, and Industry	11	(2)
The First Fashion Magazines	11	(1)
Growth of Leisure Activities	12	(1)
Conditions in the Garment Industry	12	(1)
Effects of World War I on the Status of Women and Fashion	13	(1)
Women in the Workforce	13	(1)
Important Trendsetting Designers	14	(1)
Retail Expansion in the Early Twentieth Century	14	(2)
Specialty Stores for Quality Fashion	14	(1)
The Expansion of Chain Stores	15	(1)
The Advent of Suburban Retail Centers	15	(1)
Effects of the Depression on Fashion	16	(1)
Bursting of the Credit Bubble	16	(1)
Hollywood's Influence on Fashion	16	(1)
Paris's Influence on International Fashion	17	(1)
The Effect of World War II on Fashion	17	(1)
America's Isolation from Paris Fashion	17	(1)
Reactionary Postwar Fashion	18	(1)
French Fashion Direction	18	(1)
American Fashion Innovators	18	(1)
The Youth-Directed 1960s	19	(1)
London Emerges as a Leader in Youthful Fashion	19	(1)
Revival of Men's Fashion	20	(1)
Fashion Business Evolution	20	(1)
Boutiques Set Retailing Trends	20	(1)
Antifashion of the Late 1960s and 1970s	20	(2)
The Ethnic Look	21	(1)
Physical Fitness as Fashion	22	(1)
The Women's Movement	22	(1)
The Acquisitive 1980s	22	(2)
Globalization	22	(1)
Domestic Industry Trends	23	(1)
The Value-Oriented 1990s	24	(1)
Recession	24	(1)
Fashion Direction	25	(1)
The Twenty-First Century	25	(1)
Summary	25	(1)
Chapter Review	26	(3)
Terms and Concepts	26	(1)
Questions for Review	26	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	26	(3)
Influences on Fashion Marketing and Consumer Demand	29	(18)
Consumer Demand	30	(1)
Consumer Groups	31	(3)
Demographic Trends	31	(1)
Psychographic or Life-Style Trends	32	(1)
Target Marketing	33	(1)
Economic Influences on Consumer Demand and Marketing	34	(3)
Consumer Spending	34	(1)
Purchasing Power	35	(1)
Credit	35	(2)
Global Influences on Marketing	37	(3)
Imports	37	(1)
Balance of Trade	38	(1)
World Trade Organization	39	(1)
Exports	40	(1)
North American Free Trade Agreement	40	(1)
Technological Influences on Marketing	40	(3)
Communications	40	(3)
Production Technology	43	(1)
The Marketing Chain	43	(1)
Traditional Marketing Chain	43	(1)
Vertical Integration	44	(1)
Manufacturer/Retailer Alliances	44	(1)
Summary	44	(1)
Chapter Review	45	(2)
Terms and Concepts	45	(1)
Questions for Review	45	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	45	(2)
Fashion Change and Consumer Acceptance	47	(24)
Fashion Terms	48	(1)
Fashion	48	(1)
Fashion Evolution	49	(3)
Fashion Cycles	49	(2)
Length of Cycles	51	(1)
Consumer Identification with Fashion Cycles	52	(3)
Consumer Groups	52	(2)
Fashion Leadership in Manufacturing and Retailing	54	(1)
Adoption of Fashion	55	(2)
Traditional Fashion Adoption (Trickle-Down Theory)	55	(1)
Reverse Adoption (Trickle-Up or Bottom-Up Theories)	56	(1)
Mass Dissemination (Trickle-Across Theory)	56	(1)
Motives for Consumer Buying	57	(2)
Fashion Selection	57	(2)
Fashion Categories	59	(9)
Women's Wear	59	(2)
Size Ranges	61	(2)
Men's Wear	63	(2)
Children's Wear	65	(3)
Summary	68	(1)
Chapter Review	69	(2)
Terms and Concepts	69	(1)
Questions for Review	69	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	69	(2)
Fashion Resources	71	(16)
Fashion Forecasting	72	(3)
Market Research	73	(1)
Evaluating the Collections	74	(1)
Fashion Services and Resources	75	(6)
Fashion Services	75	(2)
Color Services	77	(1)
Web Sites	77	(1)
Video Services and Television	78	(1)
Fashion Magazines and Newspapers	78	(2)
Catalogs	80	(1)
Design Sources	81	(3)
Historic and Ethnic Costume	81	(1)
The Arts	82	(1)
Fabrics	83	(1)
Travel and Nature	83	(1)
Form Follows Function	84	(1)
The Street Scene	84	(1)
Awareness	84	(1)
Summary	84	(1)
Chapter Review	85	(2)
Terms and Concepts	85	(1)
Questions for Review	85	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	85	(2)
Part Two The Raw Materials of Fashion	87	(58)
Textile Fiber and Fabric Production	89	(24)
Fibers	90	(1)
Natural Fiber Production	90	(4)
Natural Fiber Producers	90	(1)
Cotton	91	(1)
Flax	92	(1)
Ramie	93	(1)
Wool	93	(1)
Silk	94	(1)
PLA	94	(1)
Manmade Fibers	94	(4)
Manmade Fiber Producers	95	(1)
Regenerated Cellulosic Fibers	95	(1)
Synthetic Fibers	96	(1)
Generic and Brand Identification	97	(1)
Manmade Fiber Production	98	(1)
Textile Yarn and Fabric Producers	98	(2)
Textile Mills	99	(1)
Converters	99	(1)
Yarn Production	100	(1)
Filament Yarn Processing	100	(1)
Spinning Staple Fibers	100	(1)
Fabric Production	100	(5)
Weaving	101	(1)
Knitting	102	(2)
Nonwoven Fabrics	104	(1)
Production Centers	104	(1)
Dyeing	105	(1)
Printing	106	(2)
Wet Printing	106	(1)
Dry Printing	107	(1)
Digital Printing	107	(1)
Finishing	108	(1)
Physical Means of Finishing	108	(1)
Chemical Means of Finishing	108	(1)
Environmental Concerns	109	(1)
Alternatives in Cotton Growing	109	(1)
Recycled Polyester	109	(1)
Alternatives in Fiber and Fabric Production and Finishing	109	(1)
``Green'' Jeans	109	(1)
Costs of Environmental Improvements	110	(1)
Summary	110	(1)
Chapter Review	110	(3)
Terms and Concepts	110	(1)
Questions for Review	111	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	111	(2)
Textile Product Development and Marketing	113	(16)
The Global Textile Market	114	(1)
Imports Cause Trade Imbalance and Loss of Jobs	114	(1)
Exports and Overseas Investment	114	(1)
New Marketing Strategies	115	(1)
Performance Fabrics	115	(1)
Garment Packages	116	(1)
Fiber Product Development and Marketing	116	(4)
Fiber Distribution	119	(1)
Fabric Product Development and Marketing	120	(6)
Textile Design	120	(2)
Marketing	122	(1)
Fabric Markets	123	(2)
Selling	125	(1)
Summary	126	(1)
Chapter Review	126	(3)
Terms and Concepts	126	(1)
Questions for Review	127	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	127	(2)
Trimmings, Leather, and Fur	129	(16)
TRIMS	130	(9)
Threads	130	(1)
Elastics	131	(1)
Interfacings	132	(1)
Narrow Fabrics	132	(3)
Fasteners	135	(3)
Belts	138	(1)
Marketing	138	(1)
The Leather Industry	139	(2)
Leather Processing	139	(1)
Environmental Concerns	140	(1)
Leather Marketing	140	(1)
The Fur Industry	141	(2)
Fur Sources	141	(1)
Fur Processing	142	(1)
Marketing	142	(1)
Summary	143	(1)
Chapter Review	143	(2)
Terms and Concepts	143	(1)
Questions for Review	143	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	143	(2)
Part Three The Manufacturing of Fashion	145	(134)
International Fashion Centers	147	(22)
Global Nature of Fashion	148	(1)
Promotion and Licensing	148	(1)
Business Partners	149	(1)
Company Ownership	149	(1)
France	149	(5)
The Couture	150	(1)
Parisian Couturiers	151	(2)
Pret-a-Porter	153	(1)
Italy	154	(2)
Designers	154	(2)
England, United Kingdom	156	(2)
Savile Row	156	(1)
Women's Apparel	157	(1)
Germany	158	(1)
Canada	158	(2)
Montreal, Quebec	159	(1)
Toronto, Ontario	159	(1)
The United States	160	(6)
New York	160	(4)
Regional Fashion Centers	164	(1)
Other Regional Centers	165	(1)
Summary	166	(1)
Chapter Review	166	(3)
Terms and Concepts	166	(1)
Questions for Review	166	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	167	(2)
Product and Design Development	169	(24)
Product Development	170	(3)
Appealing to a Target Market	170	(1)
The Product Development Team	171	(1)
Merchandising	171	(2)
Design Development	173	(13)
Groups	174	(1)
Items	175	(1)
Design Elements	176	(6)
Design Principles	182	(3)
Sketching Ideas	185	(1)
Developing a Sample Garment	186	(3)
Line Selection	189	(1)
Editing	189	(1)
Reassessment of the Merchandise Plan	190	(1)
Line Presentation	190	(1)
Duplicates	190	(1)
Summary	190	(1)
Chapter Review	191	(2)
Terms and Concepts	191	(1)
Questions for Review	191	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	191	(2)
Apparel Production	193	(30)
Costing a Garment	194	(3)
The Cost Sheet	194	(2)
Wholesale Pricing	196	(1)
Cost Merchandising	197	(1)
Purchasing of Piece Goods	197	(3)
Patternmaking	200	(3)
The Production Pattern	200	(1)
Grading Sizes	201	(1)
Making the Marker	202	(1)
Production Scheduling	203	(1)
Issue Plan	203	(1)
Inventory Control	203	(1)
Plant Capacity	204	(1)
Spreading and Cutting Procedures	204	(2)
Spreading the Fabric	204	(1)
Cutting Techniques	205	(1)
Environmental Concerns	206	(1)
Bundling	206	(1)
Contracting	206	(5)
Global Sourcing	207	(4)
Garment Assembly	211	(5)
Assembly Operations	211	(2)
Computer Technology Used in Garment Assembly	213	(1)
Power Sewing Machines	214	(1)
Programmable Sewing Machines	215	(1)
Finishing	215	(1)
Production of Men's Suits	216	(1)
Mass Customization	217	(1)
Production of Knitwear	217	(1)
Preparations for Shipping	218	(2)
Dyeing and Washing	218	(1)
Pressing	218	(1)
Quality Control	218	(1)
Labeling	219	(1)
Floor-Ready Standards	220	(1)
Filling Orders	220	(1)
Summary	220	(1)
Chapter Review	221	(2)
Terms and Concepts	221	(1)
Questions for Review	221	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	221	(2)
Accessory and Fur Manufacturing	223	(28)
Fashion Accessories	224	(21)
Footwear	226	(4)
Handbags	230	(3)
Belts	233	(1)
Gloves	234	(1)
Hats	235	(2)
Scarves	237	(1)
Hosiery	238	(2)
Jewelry	240	(4)
Watches	244	(1)
Fur Garment Manufacturing	245	(3)
Product Development	245	(1)
Industry Organization	246	(1)
Production	246	(1)
Marketing	247	(1)
Summary	248	(1)
Chapter Review	248	(3)
Terms and Concepts	248	(1)
Questions for Review	248	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	249	(2)
Wholesale Marketing and Distribution	251	(28)
International Markets	252	(5)
European Collection Openings	253	(4)
Domestic Markets	257	(4)
New York	257	(2)
National Trade Shows	259	(1)
Regional Market Centers	260	(1)
Distribution	261	(6)
Distribution Policy	261	(1)
Brand Names	262	(1)
Building a Brand	262	(1)
Licensing	263	(1)
Joint Ventures	264	(1)
Exports	264	(1)
Manufacturers as Retailers	264	(2)
Other Forms of Distribution	266	(1)
Marketing	267	(6)
Collection Shows and Market Weeks	267	(1)
Publicity	267	(1)
Advertising	268	(4)
Associations That Promote Fashion	272	(1)
Selling to Retailers	273	(3)
Corporate Selling	273	(1)
Sales Representatives	273	(1)
Selling Incentives	274	(1)
Orders	275	(1)
Manufacturer-Retailer Relationships	276	(1)
Summary	276	(1)
Chapter Review	276	(3)
Terms and Concepts	276	(1)
Questions for Review	277	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	277	(2)
Part Four Fashion Retailing	279	(74)
Retailing	281	(22)
The Retailing Picture	282	(4)
Retailing's Roots in the Cities	282	(1)
Shopping Centers	282	(3)
Retail Bankruptcies and Consolidations	285	(1)
Too Many Stores	285	(1)
Rising Rents	286	(1)
Retail Strategies for the 21st Century	286	(2)
Value-Directed Retailing	286	(1)
Service-Oriented Retailing	286	(1)
Unique Merchandising	286	(1)
Entertainment	287	(1)
Revitalization of Downtown and Main Street Retailing	287	(1)
Global Expansion	288	(1)
Store-Based Retailers	288	(5)
Specialty Stores	288	(3)
Department Stores	291	(1)
Mass Merchants	292	(1)
Retail Organization	293	(2)
Small Stores	293	(1)
Large Stores	294	(1)
Stores Within a Store	294	(1)
Multiple-Unit Stores	295	(1)
Types of Ownership	296	(1)
Sole Proprietorships	296	(1)
Partnerships	297	(1)
Corporations	297	(1)
Nonstore Retailing	297	(3)
Mail-Order Merchants	298	(1)
E-Commerce	299	(1)
Television Shopping	300	(1)
Summary	300	(1)
Chapter Review	301	(2)
Terms and Concepts	301	(1)
Questions for Review	301	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	301	(2)
Retail Fashion Merchandising	303	(28)
Merchandising Organization	304	(2)
Responsibilities of the Store Line	304	(1)
Responsibilities of the Buying Line	305	(1)
Fashion Merchandising Direction	306	(1)
Buying Preparations	306	(3)
The Merchandise Plan	306	(3)
Buying	309	(7)
The Buyer's Role	309	(2)
Target Customers	311	(1)
Micro- versus Macro-merchandising	311	(1)
The Buying-Selling Cycle	311	(1)
Shopping the Market	312	(3)
Purchase Orders	315	(1)
National Brands Versus Private Label	316	(2)
Private Label	317	(1)
Buying Offices	318	(1)
Retail Pricing	319	(1)
Receiving	320	(1)
Record Keeping	321	(1)
Unit Control	321	(1)
Inventory Control	322	(1)
Physical Inventory	322	(1)
Customer Service	322	(2)
Retail Sales	324	(2)
Sales Training	324	(1)
The Department Manager	324	(1)
Selling	324	(2)
Merchandising Evaluation	326	(2)
Summary	328	(1)
Chapter Review	328	(3)
Terms and Concepts	328	(1)
Questions for Review	329	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	329	(2)
Retail Fashion Marketing	331	(22)
Marketing	332	(2)
Market Research	332	(1)
Retail Target Customers	332	(1)
Fashion Leadership	333	(1)
The Retailer's Image	333	(1)
Planning and Direction	334	(1)
Visual Merchandising	335	(5)
Store Planning	335	(1)
Seasonal Visual Merchandising	336	(1)
Windows	337	(1)
Interiors	337	(1)
Elements of Visual Merchandising	338	(1)
Departments	339	(1)
Fashion Advertising	340	(7)
Kinds of Advertising	341	(1)
Cooperative Advertising	341	(1)
Scheduling and Planning	342	(1)
Media	342	(4)
The Advertising Department	346	(1)
Publicity	347	(1)
Special Events	348	(2)
Marketing Evaluation	350	(1)
Summary	350	(1)
Chapter Review	350	(3)
Terms and Concepts	350	(1)
Questions for Review	351	(1)
Projects for Additional Learning	351	(2)
Appendix: Career Guidelines	353	(10)
The Textile Industry	353	(1)
Fiber and Fabric Development	353	(1)
Production	354	(1)
Marketing	354	(1)
Training and Advancement	354	(1)
Apparel Manufacturing	354	(2)
Design and Merchandising	354	(1)
Pattern-making	355	(1)
Production	355	(1)
Marketing	355	(1)
Training and Advancement	356	(1)
Retailing	356	(1)
Training and Advancement	356	(1)
Marketing	357	(1)
Finding a Job	358	(2)
Research	358	(1)
Preparations for an Interview	358	(1)
The Interview	359	(1)
The First Job	360	(1)
Preparations for a Job Interview	360	(3)
Fashion Industry Terminology	363	(132)
Index	495