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9780750628273

Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes

by
  • ISBN13:

    9780750628273

  • ISBN10:

    0750628278

  • Format: Paperback
  • Copyright: 2000-04-01
  • Publisher: Butterworth-Heinemann
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Supplemental Materials

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Summary

The text begins by describing waves, their measurement and characteristics, their behaviour in shallow water, and unusual waves. Next, mainly theoretical aspects are considered of sediment movement and deposition by currents, before discussing wave action in the littoral zone, tidal current action on tidal flat and in estuaries, and the interaction of waves, tides, and river flow in deltas. Finally, we examine shelf-sea processes, including an outline of their mineral resources.

Table of Contents

About This Volumep. 8
About This Seriesp. 9
Waves
What Are Waves?p. 12
Types of wavesp. 12
Wind-generated waves in the oceanp. 14
The fully developed seap. 16
Wave height and wave steepnessp. 17
Surface Wave Theoryp. 18
Motion of water particlesp. 20
Wave speedp. 22
Wave speed in deep and in shallow waterp. 22
Assumptions made in surface wave theoryp. 24
Wave Dispersion and Group Speedp. 24
Wave Energyp. 26
Propagation of wave energyp. 27
Attenuation of wave energyp. 27
Swellp. 28
Uses of wave energyp. 30
Waves Approaching the Shorep. 31
Wave refractionp. 32
Waves breaking upon the shorep. 35
Waves of Unusual Characterp. 38
Waves and currentsp. 38
Giant wavesp. 40
Tsunamisp. 41
Seichesp. 41
Measurement of Wavesp. 44
Satellite observations of wavesp. 44
Summary of Chapter 1p. 47
Tides
Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Moon Systemp. 52
Variations in the lunar-induced tidesp. 59
Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Sun Systemp. 62
Interaction of solar and lunar tidesp. 63
The Dynamic Theory of Tidesp. 66
Prediction of tides by the harmonic methodp. 70
Real Tidesp. 72
Tides and tidal currents in shallow seasp. 75
Storm surgesp. 81
Tides in rivers and estuariesp. 82
Tidal powerp. 83
Summary of Chapter 2p. 85
Introduction to Shallow-Water Environments and Their Sediments
Sediments of Shallow-Water Environmentsp. 87
The supply of sediments to shelf seas and oceansp. 91
Variations in supply and distribution of sediments over timep. 92
Summary of Chapter 3p. 95
Principles and Processes of Sediment Transport
Factors Controlling the Movement of Sedimentp. 96
Frictional forces and the boundary layerp. 97
Cohesive and non-cohesive sedimentsp. 99
Sediment Erosion, Transport and Depositionp. 100
Erosion of cohesive sediments and yield strengthp. 101
The concept of shear velocityp. 103
The viscous sublayerp. 107
Velocity profiles in the seap. 110
Shear velocity and the behaviour of non-cohesive sedimentsp. 111
Rates of sediment transportp. 112
The Deposition of Sedimentp. 117
Deposition of the bedloadp. 117
Deposition of the suspended loadp. 117
Bed Formsp. 118
Summary of Chapter 4p. 123
Beaches
The Morphology of Beachesp. 126
Beach profiles in relation to grain size and wave steepnessp. 130
Sediment Movement in the Beach Zonep. 133
Orbital velocities and bed shear stressp. 133
Sediment movement by wavesp. 134
Longshore sediment transport by wave-generated currentsp. 138
Rip currentsp. 141
Dynamic Equilibrium of Sediment Supply and Removalp. 142
Summary of Chapter 5p. 147
Estuaries
Sediment Distribution in Estuariesp. 150
Aggregation of sediment in estuariesp. 154
Tidal Channels of Estuariesp. 155
The estuarine continuump. 155
Regions of freshwater influencep. 160
Sedimentation in estuariesp. 162
Estuaries in low latitudesp. 166
The dynamic balance of estuariesp. 167
Lagoons, Tidal Flats and Barrier Islandsp. 169
Summary of Chapter 6p. 173
Deltas
Delta Morphologyp. 180
Mixing and Sediment Deposition at Distributary Mouthsp. 182
The deltaic continuump. 182
The Effects of Human Activities on Deltasp. 187
Summary of Chapter 7p. 188
Shelf Seas
Shelf Sea Processesp. 191
Coastal and ocean currentsp. 192
The effects of waves and of bioturbationp. 193
Sediment Transport and Deposition in Some Shelf Seasp. 194
The Shelf Sea System From Shore to Shelf Breakp. 199
Summary of Chapter 8p. 201
Suggested Further Readingp. 203
Answers and Comments to Questionsp. 204
Acknowledgmentsp. 222
Indexp. 224
Table of Contents provided by Syndetics. All Rights Reserved.

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