What is included with this book?
About This Volume | p. 8 |
About This Series | p. 9 |
Waves | |
What Are Waves? | p. 12 |
Types of waves | p. 12 |
Wind-generated waves in the ocean | p. 14 |
The fully developed sea | p. 16 |
Wave height and wave steepness | p. 17 |
Surface Wave Theory | p. 18 |
Motion of water particles | p. 20 |
Wave speed | p. 22 |
Wave speed in deep and in shallow water | p. 22 |
Assumptions made in surface wave theory | p. 24 |
Wave Dispersion and Group Speed | p. 24 |
Wave Energy | p. 26 |
Propagation of wave energy | p. 27 |
Attenuation of wave energy | p. 27 |
Swell | p. 28 |
Uses of wave energy | p. 30 |
Waves Approaching the Shore | p. 31 |
Wave refraction | p. 32 |
Waves breaking upon the shore | p. 35 |
Waves of Unusual Character | p. 38 |
Waves and currents | p. 38 |
Giant waves | p. 40 |
Tsunamis | p. 41 |
Seiches | p. 41 |
Measurement of Waves | p. 44 |
Satellite observations of waves | p. 44 |
Summary of Chapter 1 | p. 47 |
Tides | |
Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Moon System | p. 52 |
Variations in the lunar-induced tides | p. 59 |
Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Sun System | p. 62 |
Interaction of solar and lunar tides | p. 63 |
The Dynamic Theory of Tides | p. 66 |
Prediction of tides by the harmonic method | p. 70 |
Real Tides | p. 72 |
Tides and tidal currents in shallow seas | p. 75 |
Storm surges | p. 81 |
Tides in rivers and estuaries | p. 82 |
Tidal power | p. 83 |
Summary of Chapter 2 | p. 85 |
Introduction to Shallow-Water Environments and Their Sediments | |
Sediments of Shallow-Water Environments | p. 87 |
The supply of sediments to shelf seas and oceans | p. 91 |
Variations in supply and distribution of sediments over time | p. 92 |
Summary of Chapter 3 | p. 95 |
Principles and Processes of Sediment Transport | |
Factors Controlling the Movement of Sediment | p. 96 |
Frictional forces and the boundary layer | p. 97 |
Cohesive and non-cohesive sediments | p. 99 |
Sediment Erosion, Transport and Deposition | p. 100 |
Erosion of cohesive sediments and yield strength | p. 101 |
The concept of shear velocity | p. 103 |
The viscous sublayer | p. 107 |
Velocity profiles in the sea | p. 110 |
Shear velocity and the behaviour of non-cohesive sediments | p. 111 |
Rates of sediment transport | p. 112 |
The Deposition of Sediment | p. 117 |
Deposition of the bedload | p. 117 |
Deposition of the suspended load | p. 117 |
Bed Forms | p. 118 |
Summary of Chapter 4 | p. 123 |
Beaches | |
The Morphology of Beaches | p. 126 |
Beach profiles in relation to grain size and wave steepness | p. 130 |
Sediment Movement in the Beach Zone | p. 133 |
Orbital velocities and bed shear stress | p. 133 |
Sediment movement by waves | p. 134 |
Longshore sediment transport by wave-generated currents | p. 138 |
Rip currents | p. 141 |
Dynamic Equilibrium of Sediment Supply and Removal | p. 142 |
Summary of Chapter 5 | p. 147 |
Estuaries | |
Sediment Distribution in Estuaries | p. 150 |
Aggregation of sediment in estuaries | p. 154 |
Tidal Channels of Estuaries | p. 155 |
The estuarine continuum | p. 155 |
Regions of freshwater influence | p. 160 |
Sedimentation in estuaries | p. 162 |
Estuaries in low latitudes | p. 166 |
The dynamic balance of estuaries | p. 167 |
Lagoons, Tidal Flats and Barrier Islands | p. 169 |
Summary of Chapter 6 | p. 173 |
Deltas | |
Delta Morphology | p. 180 |
Mixing and Sediment Deposition at Distributary Mouths | p. 182 |
The deltaic continuum | p. 182 |
The Effects of Human Activities on Deltas | p. 187 |
Summary of Chapter 7 | p. 188 |
Shelf Seas | |
Shelf Sea Processes | p. 191 |
Coastal and ocean currents | p. 192 |
The effects of waves and of bioturbation | p. 193 |
Sediment Transport and Deposition in Some Shelf Seas | p. 194 |
The Shelf Sea System From Shore to Shelf Break | p. 199 |
Summary of Chapter 8 | p. 201 |
Suggested Further Reading | p. 203 |
Answers and Comments to Questions | p. 204 |
Acknowledgments | p. 222 |
Index | p. 224 |
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