Acknowledgements | p. VII |
Introduction | p. X |
How to use this book | p. XII |
Contexts | p. 1 |
Introduction to the city | p. 1 |
History | p. 3 |
Politics | p. 25 |
Economy | p. 26 |
People | p. 28 |
Cultural etiquette | p. 28 |
Gay Belgrade | p. 29 |
Interacting with local people | p. 30 |
Giving something back - local charities | p. 31 |
Religion | p. 32 |
Business | p. 33 |
Culture and festivals | p. 33 |
Geography and climate | p. 37 |
Natural history | p. 38 |
Planning | p. 40 |
The city - a practical overview | p. 40 |
When to visit (and why) | p. 40 |
Suggested itineraries | p. 42 |
Tour operators | p. 45 |
Red tape | p. 46 |
Getting there and away | p. 51 |
Health | p. 60 |
Safety | p. 61 |
What to take | p. 62 |
Electricity | p. 63 |
Money | p. 64 |
Practicalities | p. 66 |
Changing money and credit cards | p. 66 |
Media | p. 68 |
Communications | p. 70 |
Embassies | p. 73 |
Hospitals/pharmacies | p. 76 |
Religious services | p. 77 |
Tourist information | p. 77 |
Local tour operators | p. 78 |
River pleasure cruises | p. 81 |
Railway leisure trips | p. 82 |
Adventure tours beyond the city | p. 84 |
Local transport | p. 85 |
Airport transfer | p. 85 |
Buses and trams | p. 87 |
Trains | p. 89 |
Taxis | p. 89 |
Car hire | p. 91 |
Tour buses | p. 93 |
Cycling | p. 93 |
Accommodation | p. 95 |
Hotels | p. 95 |
Hostels | p. 110 |
Private accommodation | p. 113 |
Camping | p. 113 |
Eating and drinking | p. 114 |
Food and drink | p. 114 |
Restaurants | p. 119 |
Bars and cafes | p. 136 |
Snack bars and takeaways | p. 147 |
Entertainment and nightlife | p. 150 |
Music | p. 150 |
Theatre | p. 153 |
Cultural centres | p. 154 |
Cinema | p. 155 |
Nightlife | p. 156 |
Beaches | p. 164 |
Shopping | p. 165 |
Opening hours | p. 165 |
Handicrafts, gifts and souvenirs | p. 166 |
Communist memorabilia | p. 167 |
Art | p. 168 |
Fashion and accessories | p. 169 |
Markets | p. 170 |
Food and drink | p. 172 |
Music | p. 173 |
Books | p. 173 |
Walking tours | p. 175 |
The Old Town: Walk One | p. 175 |
The Old Town: Walk Two | p. 184 |
City centre walk | p. 190 |
Zemun walk | p. 196 |
Museums and sightseeing | p. 205 |
Museums | p. 205 |
Galleries | p. 225 |
Churches | p. 227 |
Monasteries | p. 232 |
Mosques | p. 232 |
Sites and monuments | p. 233 |
Other places of interest | p. 239 |
Parks and escapes | p. 240 |
Beyond the city | p. 255 |
Mount Avala | p. 255 |
Pancevo | p. 256 |
Smederevo | p. 258 |
Sremski Karlovci | p. 261 |
Novi Sad | p. 264 |
Language | p. 275 |
Pronunciation | p. 276 |
Words and phrases | p. 278 |
Further information | p. 287 |
Magazines | p. 287 |
Books | p. 287 |
Web resources | p. 291 |
Index | p. 296 |
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