Beyond Design : The Synergy of Apparel Product Development

by Keiser, Sandra J.

• ISBN13: 9781563672170
• ISBN10: 1563672170
• Format: Hardcover
• Copyright: 2003-02-01
• Publisher: Bloomsbury USA Academic

Summary

This practical text walks students through the preproduction processes of apparel product development from planning through forecasting, fabricating, developing silhouettes and specifications and pricing to sourcing. It demonstrates how these processes must be coordinated to get the right product to retail when consumers want it at a price they are willing to pay. Based on consultations with practitioners in some of the most successful and innovative firms in the fashion business, Beyond Design explains how apparel is developed in todays consumer-driven environment. The discussion of modern technology includes tools for supply chain management, CAD and mass customisation. The text covers evolving partnerships among textile suppliers, product developers, manufacturers and retailers, suggesting career possibilities for students in apparel manufacturing, design/patternmaking and merchandise management curriculums.

Table of Contents

Extended Contents	vii
Preface/Acknowledgments	xv
Part One: Planning for Success	1	(88)
The Role of Product Development in the Apparel Supply Chain	3	(24)
Managing Perpetual Change	3	(9)
Apparel Supply Chain Overview	5	(2)
Growth Strategies	7	(4)
Globalization	11	(1)
Product Development in an Agile Manufacturing Environment	12	(6)
The Role of Product Development	14	(1)
Product Development Variations	15	(3)
Supply Chain Management Tools	18	(5)
Summary	23	(4)
Consumer Markets	27	(32)
History of the Consumer--Producer Relationship	27	(3)
Consumer Analysis and Market Segmentation	30	(14)
Demographics	30	(4)
Marketing to the Asian Customer	34	(1)
Psychographics	35	(2)
Generational Cohort Groups	37	(5)
Lifestyle Segmentation	42	(2)
Market Research Tools	44	(8)
Environmental Scanning	44	(1)
Point-of-Sale (POS) Data	44	(1)
Data Mining	44	(2)
Focus Groups	46	(1)
Consumer Surveys	46	(1)
Ex Officio Uses Focus Groups to Target the Adventure Travel Consumer	47	(2)
Consumer Observations	49	(1)
Style Testing	49	(2)
Wear-Testing	51	(1)
Wear-Testing 101	51	(1)
General Consumer Trends	52	(2)
Summary	54	(5)
Business Planning	59	(30)
Basic Business Functions	59	(1)
Planning Components	60	(5)
Strategic Planning	61	(1)
Creative Planning	61	(3)
Technical Planning	64	(1)
Merchandise Planning	64	(1)
Production Planning	64	(1)
Stages and Elements of Apparel Product Development	65	(4)
Preadoption Stage	66	(1)
Line Adoption Stage	66	(2)
Postadoption Stage	68	(1)
Product Mix	69	(7)
Product Categories	69	(2)
Size Range	71	(1)
Price Range	72	(1)
Season	73	(3)
Product Development Cycle	76	(2)
Branding	78	(7)
Brand Management	79	(1)
Brand Distribution	80	(1)
Ownership of Retail Outlets	80	(1)
In-Store Shops	81	(1)
Private Label	81	(2)
Licensing	83	(1)
Brand Portfolios	84	(1)
Summary	85	(4)
Part Two: Creative Planning	89	(158)
Trend Forecasting	91	(32)
The Dimensions of Fashion	91	(5)
Fashion Levels	92	(2)
The Language of Fashion	94	(1)
The Fashion Cycle	94	(2)
Environmental Scanning	96	(6)
Long-Term Forecasting	97	(1)
Short-Term Forecasting	97	(1)
Popular Futurists and Resources for Long-Term Forecasting	98	(1)
Environmental Scanning Influences	98	(2)
Environmental Scanning Resources	100	(2)
Shopping the Market	102	(3)
Determining Where to Shop	103	(1)
Shopping Domestically	103	(1)
Shopping Internationally	104	(1)
Color	105	(4)
Color Forecasting	105	(1)
Color Associations	106	(1)
Textile Consortiums	107	(1)
Color Forecasters	107	(2)
Fabric	109	(4)
Fabric Shows	110	(1)
Fabric Libraries	111	(1)
Fabric Purchasing	111	(1)
Printed Fabrics	112	(1)
Trim Studios	113	(1)
Silhouette	113	(1)
Seasonal Fashion Collections	114	(4)
Responsibility for Trend Forecasting	115	(1)
Forecast Formats	116	(2)
Summary	118	(5)
Color Management	123	(22)
Color Science	123	(5)
Color and Light	124	(1)
Color Attributes	124	(2)
Creating and Mixing Colors	126	(2)
Seasonal Color Palettes	128	(4)
Relating Color Palettes to Target Markets	130	(1)
Organizing Color Stories	131	(1)
The Color Management Process	132	(8)
Color Specification Systems	132	(1)
Commercial Color Identification Systems	133	(1)
Color Approval	134	(2)
Color Measurement	136	(1)
Color Measurement Procedures	137	(1)
Interpretation of Color Measurement Data	137	(1)
Factors Affecting Color Management	138	(1)
Target Improves Accuracy of Its Color Story	139	(1)
Summary	140	(5)
Fabrication	145	(28)
Creating a Fabric Story	146	(5)
Fabric Classifications	146	(3)
Fabric Selection	149	(2)
The Language of Fabrics	151	(4)
Fiber	151	(2)
Weight	153	(1)
Surface Interest	153	(2)
Drape and Hand	155	(1)
Prints	155	(8)
Print Sources	155	(2)
Designing Prints	157	(2)
Printing Methods	159	(4)
Standards for Print Quality	163	(1)
Making and Protecting Fabric Selections	163	(4)
Making Fabric Selections	163	(2)
Protecting Fabric Selections	165	(1)
Leather: A Specialty Fabrication	166	(1)
Managing Fabric Decisions	167	(2)
Summary	169	(4)
Garment Styling	173	(56)
Methods for Developing Design Ideas	174	(3)
Purchased Garments	174	(1)
Printed Sources	175	(1)
Sketches	175	(2)
Primary Resource Material	177	(1)
Design Elements and Principles	177	(10)
Design Elements	179	(5)
Design Principles	184	(3)
Garment Classifications	187	(7)
Tops	188	(9)
Bottoms	197
Garment Details	194	(13)
Component Parts	194	(10)
Closures	204	(1)
Planning and Sourcing for Garment Details	204	(3)
Summary	207	(22)
Appendix: Apparel Design Details Illustrated	210	(19)
Line Planning and Development	229	(18)
Approaches to Line Planning	230	(1)
Methods for Line Planning	230	(1)
Original Designs	230	(1)
Style Modification	230	(1)
Knockoffs	231	(1)
Developing the Line	231	(5)
Item Line Development	232	(2)
Group Line Development	234	(2)
Balancing the Line	236	(3)
The Fashion Continuum	237	(1)
The Season Continuum	238	(1)
Line Planning Limitations	238	(1)
Graphics for Line Development	239	(5)
Croquis Sketches	240	(1)
Flats	240	(3)
Technical Flats	243	(1)
Style Boards	243	(1)
Summary	244	(3)
Part Three: Technical Design	247	(110)
Translating Concept to Product	249	(24)
Pattern Making	250	(6)
Methods of Pattern Development	250	(2)
Pattern Making Needs	252	(1)
Sourcing Pattern Making	253	(1)
Additional Considerations	254	(2)
Standards	256	(1)
Specifications	257	(11)
Information Included	258	(1)
Specification Development	259	(8)
Types of Spec Sheet Forms	267	(1)
Summary	268	(5)
Findings and Trim	273	(28)
Findings	274	(18)
Support Materials	274	(2)
Guidelines for Meeting Quality Standards	276	(4)
Closures	280	(8)
Thread	288	(2)
Elastics	290	(1)
Labels	290	(2)
Trims	292	(6)
Linear Trims	292	(1)
Narrow Fabric Trims	293	(3)
Surface Embellishments	296	(1)
Decorative Details	297	(1)
Summary	298	(3)
Sizing and Fit	301	(24)
Sizing	301	(14)
History of Women's Apparel Sizing	302	(2)
Women's Sizing	304	(7)
Petite and Tall Consumer Markets	311	(1)
Men's Sizing	312	(1)
Children's Sizing	313	(1)
Metrics and Sizing	314	(1)
Garment Fit	315	(7)
Forms and Fit Models	318	(1)
Grading	319	(2)
Mass Customization	321	(1)
The (TC2) Body Scanner	322	(1)
Summary	322	(3)
Quality Assurance	325	(32)
Product Development Perspective on Quality	327	(1)
Quality Standards	327	(1)
Quality Specifications	328	(5)
Specification LibrariesWomen's Sizing	329	(1)
Voluntary Testing MethodsWomen's Sizing	329	(1)
Sizing SpecificationsWomen's Sizing	329	(1)
Quality Assurance Standards: Basic Testing Requirements for Fabrics, Findings, and Trims	330	(2)
Quality Assurance Standards: How to Measure Apparel	332	(1)
Labeling Standards	333	(4)
Mandatory Labeling Requirements	333	(3)
Voluntary Labeling	336	(1)
Safety Regulations	337	(1)
Flammability	337	(1)
Drawstrings	337	(1)
Small Parts	337	(1)
Preproduction Activities Related to Fabric, Findings, and Trim	338	(1)
Specifications for Stitches, Seams, and Edge Finishes	339	(1)
Stitches	339	(9)
Seams	342	(6)
Assembly	348	(5)
Tolerances	348	(2)
Construction Criteria	350	(3)
Summary	353	(4)
Appendix: Index of Commercial Seams by Class	353	(4)
Part Four: Production Planning	357	(52)
The Role of Sourcing in Product Development	359	(32)
Sourcing Strategies	360	(6)
Evaluating Core Competencies	360	(1)
Sourcing Levels	361	(5)
Sourcing Options	366	(6)
Domestically Owned Manufacturing Facilities	366	(1)
Domestic Contracting	367	(1)
The Trend toward Offshore Sourcing	367	(2)
Offshore Contractors	369	(1)
Owned Offshore Production Facilities	370	(1)
Joint Ventures	371	(1)
Domestic Licensing	371	(1)
International Licensing	372	(1)
International Trade Policy	372	(3)
A Brief History of International Trade Policy	372	(1)
The Current Status of International Trade Policy	373	(1)
Regional Trade Blocs	373	(2)
Evaluating Sourcing Options	375	(10)
Political Stability and Economic Climate	376	(1)
Proposed Country's Infrastructure	376	(1)
Sourcing Costs	377	(1)
Quality Standards	378	(2)
Production Capabilities	380	(2)
Response Time	382	(1)
Working Conditions	382	(1)
Channels of Communication	383	(2)
The Role of Sourcing in Product Development	385	(1)
The Future of Sourcing	386	(1)
Summary	386	(5)
Costing and Pricing	391	(18)
Costing Basics	391	(6)
Basic Costing Systems	393	(1)
Profit and Loss Statement	393	(4)
Selected Costing Areas	397	(3)
Bill of Materials	397	(1)
Labor Costs	398	(2)
Product Development Costing Phases	400	(5)
Precosting	400	(3)
Production Costing	403	(1)
Actual Costs	404	(1)
Pricing Products	405	(2)
Discounts and Allowances	405	(1)
Pricing Laws	406	(1)
Pricing Strategies	406	(1)
Summary	407	(2)
Part Five: Planning Production Distribution	409	(40)
Final Stages and Future Trends	411	(38)
Selling to Retailers	411	(1)
Production	412	(7)
Scheduling	412	(2)
Spreading and Cutting	414	(1)
Assembly	415	(2)
Wet Processing	417	(1)
Finishing	418	(1)
Distribution	418	(1)
Retail Environment	419	(7)
Retail Stores	419	(4)
Direct Marketing	423	(3)
Current Conditions	426	(2)
Sameness in Fashion Products	427	(1)
Lifestyle Changes of Consumers	427	(1)
The Future	428	(3)
Changes in Regulation of World Trade	429	(1)
Technological Advances	429	(2)
National Sizing Survey Begins	431	(1)
Summary	431	(18)
Index	435	(14)
Figure Credits	449