The use of computers has opened up remarkable opportunities for innovative design, improved productivity, and greater efficiency in the use of materials. Uniquely, this book focuses on the practical use of computers for clothing pattern design and product development. Readers are introduced to the various computer systems which are suitable for the industry, the principles and techniques of pattern design applied to computer systems are explained, and readers are shown how product data management can be used in clothing product development.

Alison Beazley has had extensive experience as a designer and lectures in clothing design and technology. She has written technical articles and produced video media on this subject.

Preface

vii

Acknowledgements

ix

Abbreviations and symbols

x

Introduction: Developments within computer-aided apparel systems

xi

Part 1: Pattern construction

1

(60)

Body and garment measurements

1

(7)

Taking body measurements manually

1

(3)

Computerised body measuring systems

4

(4)

Size chart formulation

8

(12)

Women's size charts

9

(11)

Pattern construction techniques

20

(5)

The positioning of computer patterns

20

(1)

Creating pattern shapes by computer

21

(1)

Techniques for constructing pattern shapes

21

(4)

Block pattern construction

25

(5)

Block patterns

25

(1)

Garment balance

25

(2)

Garment shaping by suppression

27

(1)

Ease allowance

28

(1)

Influence of the fabric

28

(1)

Drafting block patterns

29

(1)

Testing block patterns

29

(1)

Construction of primary block patterns

30

(16)

Straight skirt block size 12

30

(3)

Fitted bodice block size 12

33

(5)

Straight sleeve block size 12

38

(2)

Basic trouser block size 12

40

(6)

Construction of secondary block patterns

46

(15)

Semi-fitted and fitted sleeve blocks

46

(2)

One-piece dress blocks

48

(1)

Fitted one-piece dress block

49

(3)

Straight one-piece dress block

52

(2)

Adaptation for a semi-fitted one-piece dress block

54

(1)

Dartless block tops and blouses

55

(6)

Part 2: Computer pattern grading

61

(36)

Pattern grading

61

(1)

Grading increments

61

(1)

Grade point movement

62

(1)

Methods of recording incremental growth

63

(1)

Grade rules

63

(1)

Constructing a grade rule table

64

(2)

Variations in positioning the zero point

66

(1)

Computer grading techniques

66

(5)

Grading primary block patterns

71

(15)

Straight skirt grading that retains the same proportion

72

(2)

Straight skirt grading that changes the proportion

74

(2)

Fitted bodice and semi-fitted sleeve grading that retains the same proportion

76

(3)

Fitted bodice and semi-fitted sleeve grading that changes the proportion

79

(2)

Trouser grading that retains the same proportion

81

(3)

Trouser grading that changes the proportion

84

(2)

Grading secondary block patterns

86

(6)

One-piece semi-fit dress grading

86

(1)

Knitted top grading

87

(2)

Blouse grading

89

(3)

Pattern preparation for digitising

92

(5)

Setting up parameter tables

92

(1)

Checking the master pattern

93

(2)

Building grade rule tables

95

(1)

Computer digitising

95

(1)

Verifying the pattern grading

96

(1)

Part 3: Pattern designing and grading

97

(62)

Pattern design procedures

97

(2)

Skirt styling

99

(12)

Gathered skirt with flounce

100

(1)

Pleats

101

(1)

Flared and gored skirts

102

(3)

Construction of circular skirts

105

(4)

Skirt style and yoke and pleats

109

(2)

Pockets

111

(4)

Patch pocket

111

(1)

Piped pocket

112

(1)

Inset pocket

113

(1)

Waist band and placket

114

(1)

Bodice styling

115

(13)

Pivoting a dart

117

(1)

Combining darts

118

(1)

Combining darts for gathering

119

(1)

Combining darts into gathers at a saddle yoke seam

120

(2)

Combining darts to form draped folds

122

(2)

Incorporating darts into seams

124

(2)

Modification for a sleeveless armhole

126

(1)

Modification for a lower `cut-away' round neckline

127

(1)

Collar styling

128

(12)

Sections of a collar

128

(1)

Collar patterns

129

(1)

Types of collars

130

(1)

Methods of constructing collar patterns

130

(1)

Adaptation for a flat collar

131

(1)

Adaptation for a semi-stand collar

132

(2)

Adaptation for a grown-on collar

134

(2)

Construction of a high-stand collar

136

(1)

Adaptation for a convertible collar

137

(1)

Adaptation for a two-piece collar

137

(1)

Draft for a high roll collar

138

(1)

Draft for a shirt collar

139

(1)

Sleeve styling

140

(10)

Relationship of the sleeve to the bodice

140

(1)

Sleeve lengths

141

(1)

Blouse sleeve with buttoned cuff

142

(1)

Puff sleeve styles

142

(1)

Half puff sleeve

143

(1)

Full puff sleeve with frill

144

(1)

Raglan sleeve

145

(2)

Kimono styled sleeve

147

(3)

Production patterns

150

(9)

Checking the stitching line

150

(1)

Seam allowances

151

(2)

Seam corners

153

(1)

Hems

154

(1)

Facings

155

(2)

Approval of the sample garment and graded patterns

157

(2)

Part 4: Pattern modification for garment size and fit

159

(38)

Assessing the figure shape and garment fit

159

(1)

Variation in bone structure

159

(7)

Height

159

(3)

Shoulder slant

162

(2)

Length of the upper and lower torso

164

(1)

Stance

165

(1)

Variations in posture

166

(7)

Garment balance

166

(3)

Skirt waist levels

169

(1)

Trouser waist level and seat angle

169

(2)

Neck width

171

(1)

Sleeve pitch

172

(1)

Variation in body size and contour

173

(13)

Small adjustment to the waist size

173

(1)

Larger adjustment to the waist size

174

(1)

Incorrect suppression

174

(1)

Prominences of the upper torso

175

(1)

Bust prominence

175

(1)

Shoulder blade prominence

176

(1)

Prominences of the lower torso

177

(1)

Straight skirt modification for a prominent seat

177

(2)

Straight skirt modification for a flatter seat

179

(1)

Straight skirt modification for hip and thigh prominences

180

(1)

Straight skirt modification for stomach prominence

180

(2)

Trouser modification for seat prominence

182

(1)

Trouser modification for hip and thigh prominences

183

(1)

Trouser modification for stomach prominence

184

(2)

CAD technology for customisation

186

(11)

Computerised made-to-measure systems

186

(1)

Configuration and alteration points

187

(3)

Made-to-measure garment alteration

190

(1)

The made-to-measure CAD interface

191

(1)

Marker making using the batch process

192

(1)

Advanced 3D pattern design systems

193

(4)

Part 5: Computerised marker making systems

197

(4)

Marker making and lay planning

197

(4)

Fabric widths and material utilisation

197

(1)

Markers for striped and check fabrics

198

(1)

Placement strategies for fabric type and matching

198

(1)

Planning markers

198

(1)

Optimising markers

199

(1)

Computerised fabric spreading and cutting

200

(1)

Part 6: Product data management systems

201

(4)

PDM Systems

201

(4)

Organisation of design data

202

(1)

Form administration

203

(2)

References and further reading

205

(2)

Appendix I: Index of technical terms

207

(2)

Appendix II: Miniaturised block patterns

209

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