A Culinary Traveller in Tuscany

Just when we thought we knew everything there was to know about Tuscany, along comes Beth Eloncookbook writer and 30 year resident of a small village at the foot of the Appenineswho takes us along the back roads and through the ancient hill towns to remote restaurants that are for the most part overlooked by tourists and known only to the locals. At each restaurant the cooks share their highly personal recipes for regional dishes made with local ingredients. With this guide in hand, you'll not only know where to dine, but what to order when you get there. Each regional section begins with illuminating and absorbing explanations of what makes Tuscan cooking so unique: location, location, location. You'll read about a bean so beloved by a village that it's been elevated to cult statusbut that is totally unheard of a few kilometers down the road; the specialty of the Zeri Valley, a milk-fed aboriginal baby lamb, that is almost unknown elsewhere in Italy; the endless array of vegetable tarts found only in Lunigiana and Garfagnana. Elon has organized ten itineraries that also include stops at gourmet shops, food festivals, greenmarkets, and private kitchens. Along the way, she points out significant architecture, historic sites, churches, art, museums, and points of interest in the memorable landscape. The indispensable travel information in this guide is enriched by the author's deep personal knowledge of the history and legend of the regionand her delightful voice and beautiful writing.

American BETH ELON and her husband, the Israeli social historian Amos Elon, have lived in Tuscany for more than 30 years. Her previous books include The Pasta Book and The Big Book of Pasta, which was a bestseller in Israel, and A Mediterranean Farm Kitchen. She continues to write food columns for Israeli papers from her home in Italy.

A Personal Note

11

(14)

The Itineraries

The Lunigiana and the Mountains of Carrara

25

(30)

Fivizzano

Pontremoli

Filattiera

Mocrone

Colonnata

Valle Del Serchio and the Garfagnana

55

(28)

Borgo a Mozzano

Coreglia Artiminelli

Ponte di Campia

Castelnuovo di Garfagnana

Pieve Fosciana

La Valdinievole and Svizzera Pesciatina

83

(26)

Pescia

Biecina

Colle di Buggiano

Lamporecchio

Vinci

Pistoia and Its Mountains

109

(26)

Pistoia

Cutigliano

Pianosinatico

The Mugello

135

(24)

Vicchio

Marradi

Palazzuolo sul Senio

Scarperia

The Casentino and Tiber Valley

159

(26)

Stia

Moggiona

San Sepolcro

Anghiari

On the road to Monterchi

Valdichiana and Crete Senese

185

(26)

Trequanda

Montefollonico

Buonconvento

Asciano

Montelupo Fiorentina and San Miniato on to Val D'era

211

(24)

Corazzano

Montopoli

Palaia

Peccioli

Marina Di Pisa to Upper Maremma

235

(34)

Marina di Pisi

Bibbona Mare

Canneto

Bolgheri

Suvereto Campiglia Marittimi

San Vincenzo

The Maremma and Western Slopes of Mount Amiata

269

(25)

Montenero

Piancastagnaio

Santa Fiora

Arcidosso

Afterword

294

(3)

Index of Locations

297

(11)

Index of Recipes

308

(5)

Index of Main Ingredients

313

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