Embroidering Lives: Women's Work and Skill in the Lucknow Embroidery Industry

by Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M.

• ISBN13: 9780791440889
• ISBN10: 0791440885
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 1999-03-01
• Publisher: State Univ of New York Pr

Summary

Fusing aesthetic and economic perspectives in exploring the lives and work of women in the Lucknow, India embroidery industry, this book offers insights into anthropology of work and women's studies. Richly descriptive and accessibly written, this book explores many important issues in women's studies, anthropology, and urban development today -- the impact of purdah (seclusion of women) upon women's work and occupational opportunities, the key role of subcontractors in home-based industry, the need to understand a handicraft from its makers' point of view, and the role of development agencies and programs.

Author Biography

Clare M. Wilkinson-Weber is Adjunct Professor of Anthropology at Washington State University

Table of Contents

List of Maps	vii	(2)
List of Figures	ix	(2)
List of Tables	xi	(2)
A Note on Translation	xiii	(2)
Acknowledgments	xv	(4)
Introduction	xix
Methodology	xxii	(2)
Apprenticeship and learning (about) chikan	xxiv	(2)
Summary of chapters	xxvi
Chapter 1 Chikan in Historical Context	1	(24)
The field setting	1	(3)
What is chikan ?	4	(1)
Stitches and "work"	5	(4)
Origins and history of chikan	9	(16)
Chapter 2 The Division of Labor	25	(34)
The production process	25	(2)
Knowledge and the division of labor	27	(1)
Productive specialties	28	(25)
Machine work	53	(4)
Conclusion	57	(2)
Chapter 3 Embroiderers in Social Perspective	59	(28)
Theorizing women's work	59	(2)
Problems with statistics	61	(3)
Embroidery and poverty	64	(3)
Leisure	67	(1)
Religion	68	(4)
Caste	72	(2)
Purdah	74	(7)
Embroidery and the life cycle	81	(6)
Chapter 4 Work and Wages	87	(36)
Embroidery wages	87	(9)
Work habits	96	(5)
Agents and embroiderers	101	(17)
Summary	118	(1)
Is chikan embroidery "free-time" work?	119	(4)
Chapter 5 Skill and Knowledge in Fine Chikan Embroidery	123	(34)
Distinguishing the work of a skilled embroiderer	123	(3)
Knowledge of chikan	126	(4)
Learning chikan	130	(2)
Shauq and pareshani	132	(4)
Processes of learning	136	(13)
The embroiderer's "design": Planning and execution	149	(5)
Working for the market: Concessions in skill	154	(3)
Chapter 6 Development Schemes and State Patronage	157	(40)
Government handicraft policy	157	(4)
Government promotion and patronage	161	(12)
Award schemes	173	(6)
Training schemes	179	(2)
Exhibitions	181	(1)
Government jobs for skilled embroiderers	182	(1)
SEWA Lucknow	183	(9)
Embroiderers, skilled embroiderers, the government, and SEWA Lucknow	192	(1)
Conclusion	193	(4)
Conclusion	197	(8)
Appendix	205	(6)
Notes	211	(6)
Glossary	217	(4)
Bibliography	221	(10)
Index	231