England For Dummies^®, 3rd Edition

by Donald Olson

• ISBN13: 9780471748717
• ISBN10: 0471748714
• Edition: 3rd
• Format: Paperback
• Copyright: 2006-02-01
• Publisher: For Dummies

Summary

Whether you like taking in historic sites and cathedrals or great shopping and nightlife, quiet, quaint villages or swinging seaside resorts, the cosmopolitan aura of London or the spectacular beauty of the Lake District, you'll find plenty to see and do in England. This friendly guide doesn't solve the mystery of prehistoric Stonehenge, but it helps you solve the mystery of how to make the most of your time and your money, with: Five great one- or two-week itineraries to help you hit the high points on your list Suggestions for day-trips from London The low-down on the high-brow castles Information on areas from the Yorkshire moors to the cliffs of Cornwall to Stratford-upon-Avon Tips for getting around in London via Underground, bus, or taxi A tear-out cheat sheet to help you with unfamiliar British words so you can understand the blokes Like every For Dummies travel guide, England For Dummies, 3 rd Edition includes: Down-to-earth trip-planning advice What you shouldn't miss-and what you can skip The best hotels and restaurants for every budget Handy Post-it Flags to mark your favorite pages

Author Biography

Novelist, playwright, and travel writer <b>Donald Olson</b> is also the author of <i>Germany for Dummies</i> and <i>England for Dummies,</i> which won the Lowell Thomas Travel Writing Award for Best Guidebook in 2002. He has contributed travel stories to the <i>New York Times,</i> National Geographic Books, and many other national publications, and has written guidebooks to Berlin, Italy, Oregon, and the Pacific Northwest.

Table of Contents

Introduction	1	(6)
About This Book	1	(1)
Conventions Used in This Book	2	(1)
Foolish Assumptions	3	(1)
How This Book Is Organized	3	(3)
Part I: Introducing England	4	(1)
Part II: Planning Your Trip to England	4	(1)
Part III: London and Environs	4	(1)
Part IV: The Southeast	4	(1)
Part V: The West Country	4	(1)
Part VI: England's Heartland	5	(1)
Part VII: Way Up North	5	(1)
Part VIII: The Part of Tens	5	(1)
Icons Used in This Book	6	(1)
Where to Go from Here	6	(1)
Part I: Introducing England	7	(48)
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of England	9	(6)
The Best of Legendary London	9	(1)
The Best Cities, Towns, and Villages	10	(1)
The Best Castles, Palaces, and Stately Homes	11	(1)
The Best Cathedrals and Churches	11	(1)
The Best Historic Places	12	(1)
The Best Gardens	13	(1)
The Best Romantic Landscapes	13	(1)
The Best Shopping	14	(1)
Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into England	15	(9)
The Main Events: A Brief History of England	15	(3)
Building Blocks: An Overview of English Architecture	18	(2)
Dining English Style from Traditional to Modern	20	(1)
Visiting the Local Pub	20	(1)
Background Check: Finding England in Books and Movies	21	(3)
Books	22	(1)
Movies	23	(1)
Chapter 3: Deciding When and Where to Go	24	(17)
Going Everywhere You Want to Be	24	(5)
Looking at London: from Buckingham Palace to the British Museum	24	(2)
Exploring Southeast England: Canterbury, castles, and historic towns	26	(1)
Sightseeing at Stonehenge and in the West Country: Hampshire, Wiltshire, Devon, and Cornwall	27	(1)
Discovering England's heartland: Stratford-upon-Avon, the Cotswolds, and Bath	28	(1)
Heading north: Yorkshire and the Lake District	28	(1)
Scheduling Your Time	29	(1)
Revealing the Secrets of the Seasons	30	(5)
Traveling during high and low seasons	30	(1)
Watching those unpredictable skies	31	(1)
Blooming in spring	32	(1)
Shining (and raining) in summer	32	(1)
Glowing in autumn'	33	(1)
Welcoming in winter	34	(1)
Perusing a Calendar of Events	35	(6)
January	35	(1)
February	35	(1)
March	36	(1)
April	36	(1)
May	36	(1)
June	37	(1)
July	38	(1)
August	38	(1)
September	39	(1)
October	39	(1)
November	39	(1)
December	40	(1)
Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Five Great Options	41	(14)
Seeing England's Highlights in One Week	42	(3)
Touring the Best of England in Two Weeks	45	(2)
Discovering England with Kids	47	(2)
Strolling through England's Greenery: An Itinerary for Garden Lovers	49	(2)
Visiting England's Past: An Itinerary for History Buffs	51	(4)
Part II: Planning Your Trip to England	55	(58)
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money	57	(12)
Planning Your Budget	57	(5)
Lodging	57	(1)
Transportation	58	(1)
Dining	59	(1)
Sightseeing	59	(1)
Shopping and nightlife	60	(2)
Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun	62	(1)
Handling Money	63	(4)
Using ATMs and carrying cash	64	(1)
Charging ahead with credit cards	64	(1)
Toting traveler's checks	65	(1)
Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet	66	(1)
Taking Taxes into Account	67	(1)
Tipping Like You Mean It	68	(1)
Chapter 6: Getting to England	69	(8)
Finding Out Who Flies Where	69	(1)
Getting the Best Deal on Your Airfare	70	(2)
Working with Consolidators	71	(1)
Booking your flight online	71	(1)
Arriving by Other Means	72	(1)
Taking the train	72	(1)
Riding a ferry or hovercraft	73	(1)
Joining an Escorted Tour	73	(2)
Choosing a Package Tour	75	(2)
Locating package tours	75	(1)
Checking out airline and hotel packages	76	(1)
Chapter 7: Getting Around England	77	(10)
Weighing the Options: Train or Car?	77	(1)
Riding the Rails	77	(4)
Buying your train ticket	78	(1)
Negotiating the rail system	78	(1)
Getting to know London's train stations	79	(1)
Saving with BritRail passes	80	(1)
Hopping a Coach: Bus Travel	81	(1)
Driving on the Left, Passing on the Right: Car Travel	81	(6)
Renting a car in London — or not	82	(1)
Renting a car in England	83	(1)
Hitting the road: Motorways, dual carriageways, and roundabouts	84	(1)
Following the rules of the road	85	(1)
Coping with emergencies on the road	85	(1)
Filling up the tank	86	(1)
Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations	87	(8)
Finding the Right Place for You	88	(4)
Understanding the pros and cons of B&Bs	88	(1)
Exploring hotel choices	89	(3)
Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate	92	(3)
Surfing the Web for Hotel Deals	93	(1)
Reserving the Best Room	94	(1)
Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests	95	(8)
Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families	95	(2)
Locating family-friendly accommodations and restaurants	96	(1)
Hiring a baby-sitter in England	97	(1)
Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors	97	(1)
Accessing England: Information for Travelers with Disabilities	98	(3)
Considering the benefits of escorted tours	100	(1)
Dealing with access issues	100	(1)
Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gay and Lesbian Travelers	101	(2)
Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details	103	(10)
Getting a Passport	103	(2)
Applying for a U.S. passport	103	(1)
Applying for other passports	104	(1)
Entering England with your passport	105	(1)
Dealing with a (gulp) lost passport	105	(1)
Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance	105	(1)
Staying Healthy When You Travel	106	(1)
Staying Connected by Cellphone	107	(2)
Accessing the Internet Away From Home	109	(2)
Keeping Up with Airline Security	111	(2)
Part III: London and Environs	113	(108)
Chapter 11: Settling into London	115	(43)
Getting There	115	(4)
Flying to London	115	(4)
Taking the train	119	(1)
Orienting Yourself in London	119	(1)
Introducing the Neighborhoods	120	(6)
The City of London	120	(1)
West End	121	(3)
West London	124	(2)
The South Bank	126	(1)
Finding Information After You Arrive	126	(1)
Getting Around London	127	(4)
By Underground (subway)	127	(2)
By bus	129	(1)
By taxi	130	(1)
On foot	130	(1)
Staying in Style	131	(12)
The top hotels	134	(7)
Runner-up accommodations	141	(2)
Dining Out	143	(12)
Neighborhoods for ethnic eats	143	(1)
Strategies for budget dining	143	(3)
The top restaurants	146	(9)
Treating Yourself to a Tea	155	(3)
Casual tearooms and patisseries	155	(1)
Elegant spots for high tea	156	(2)
Chapter 12: Exploring London	158	(43)
Discovering the Top Attractions	158	(17)
Finding More Cool Things to See and Do	175	(6)
Seeing London by Guided Tour	181	(3)
Bus tours	181	(1)
Boat tours	182	(1)
An amphibious tour	183	(1)
Walking tours	183	(1)
Following an Itinerary	184	(1)
Shopping in London	184	(6)
When to shop and how to find deals	184	(1)
Where to shop and what to buy	185	(5)
Living It Up After Dark	190	(7)
Finding out what's happening	190	(1)
Getting tickets	190	(1)
Raising the curtain on performing arts and music	190	(2)
Checking out the club and bar scenes	192	(5)
Fast Facts: London	197	(4)
Chapter 13: Day-tripping from London	201	(20)
Cambridge: Medieval Colleges on the River Cam	201	(8)
Getting to Cambridge	201	(3)
Finding information and taking a tour	204	(1)
Getting around Cambridge	204	(1)
Exploring the best of Cambridge	204	(3)
Finding more to see and do in Cambridge	207	(1)
Dining in Cambridge	208	(1)
Greenwich: The Center of Time and Space	209	(2)
Getting to Greenwich	209	(1)
Finding information and taking a tour	209	(1)
Exploring Greenwich	210	(1)
Dining in Greenwich	211	(1)
Hampton Court Palace: Henry VIII's Riverside Estate	211	(1)
Getting to Hampton Court	211	(1)
Exploring Hampton Court	212	(1)
Royal Botanic Gardens (Kew Gardens): Royal Pleasure Grounds	212	(1)
Getting to Kew Gardens	213	(1)
Exploring Kew Gardens	213	(1)
Oxford: Town and Gown	213	(5)
Getting to Oxford	214	(1)
Finding information and taking a tour	214	(1)
Exploring the best of Oxford	214	(2)
Finding more to see and do in Oxford	216	(1)
Dining in Oxford	217	(1)
Blenheim Palace: Ancestral Home of the Churchills	218	(1)
Getting to Blenheim Palace	218	(1)
Exploring Blenheim Palace	218	(1)
Windsor Castle: Official Royal Residence	219	(4)
Getting to Windsor Castle	220	(1)
Exploring Windsor Castle	220	(1)
Part IV: The Southeast	221	(38)
Chapter 14: Kent and Sussex	223	(24)
Canterbury: Tales from the Great Cathedral	224	(5)
Getting to Canterbury	225	(1)
Finding information and taking a tour	225	(1)
Staying in or near Canterbury	225	(1)
Dining in or near Canterbury	226	(2)
Exploring Canterbury	228	(1)
Rye: Smugglers, Mermaids, and Writers	229	(7)
Getting to Rye	230	(1)
Finding information	230	(1)
Taking a tour of Rye	231	(1)
Staying in Rye	232	(1)
Dining in Rye	233	(1)
Exploring Rye	234	(2)
Battle: 1066 and All That	236	(2)
Getting to Battle	236	(1)
Finding information	236	(1)
Dining in Battle	237	(1)
Exploring the Battle of Hastings Abbey and Battlefield	238	(1)
Brighton: Fun Beside the Seaside	238	(9)
Getting to Brighton	239	(1)
Finding information	240	(1)
Getting around Brighton	240	(1)
Staying in or near Brighton	240	(2)
Dining in Brighton	242	(1)
Exploring Brighton	243	(2)
Shopping in Brighton	245	(1)
Stepping out in Brighton, night or day	245	(2)
Chapter 15: Kent's Best Castles, Stately Homes, and Gardens	247	(12)
Knole: A Room for Every Day of the Year	248	(2)
Getting to Knole	249	(1)
Exploring Knole	249	(1)
Hever Castle: Anne Boleyn Slept Here	250	(2)
Getting to Hever Castle	250	(1)
Exploring Hever Castle	251	(1)
Chartwell: The Private Life of a Famous Prime Minister	252	(1)
Getting to Chartwell	252	(1)
Exploring Chartwell House	252	(1)
Leeds Castle: Castle of Queens, Queen of Castles	253	(1)
Getting to Leeds Castle	253	(1)
Exploring Leeds Castle	253	(1)
Sissinghurst Castle Garden: Romance amongst the Roses	254	(2)
Getting to Sissinghurst Castle Garden	255	(1)
Exploring Sissinghurst Castle Garden	255	(1)
Dover Castle: Towers and Tunnels	256	(5)
Getting to Dover Castle	256	(1)
Exploring Dover Castle	256	(3)
Part V The West Country	259	(50)
Chapter 16: Hampshire and Wiltshire: Old Wessex and New Sarum	261	(13)
Winchester: King Alfred Meets Jane Austen	263	(5)
Getting to Winchester	263	(1)
Finding information and taking a tour of Winchester	263	(1)
Staying in Winchester	264	(1)
Finding lunch or a spot of tea	264	(1)
Exploring Winchester and the surrounding area	265	(3)
Salisbury: High-Spire Act	268	(4)
Getting to Salisbury	268	(1)
Finding information on Salisbury	268	(1)
Staying in or near Salisbury	269	(1)
Dining in Salisbury	270	(1)
Exploring Salisbury and the surrounding area	271	(1)
Stonehenge: Visiting the Standing Stones	272	(2)
Getting to Stonehenge	272	(1)
Exploring Stonehenge	273	(1)
Chapter 17: Devon: Moors, Tors, and Sandy Shores	274	(18)
Exeter: Sea Captains and Silversmiths	275	(6)
Getting to Exeter	276	(1)
Finding information and taking a tour	277	(1)
Staying in Exeter	277	(1)
Dining in Exeter	278	(1)
Exploring Exeter	279	(1)
Shopping for Exeter silver	280	(1)
Dartmoor National Park: Back to Nature	281	(5)
Getting to the park	281	(1)
Finding information	281	(2)
Taking a tour of the park	283	(1)
Staying in Dartmoor National Park	283	(1)
Dining in Dartmoor National Park	284	(1)
Exploring in and around Dartmoor National Park	285	(1)
Torquay: Relaxing on the English Riviera	286	(3)
Getting to Torquay	287	(1)
Getting around and touring Torquay	287	(1)
Finding information	287	(1)
Staying and dining in Torquay	287	(1)
Exploring Torquay	288	(1)
Plymouth: Where the Pilgrims Set Sail	289	(3)
Getting to Plymouth	289	(1)
Taking a cruise in Plymouth	289	(1)
Finding information	289	(1)
Locating a spot for lunch or tea	290	(1)
Exploring Plymouth	290	(2)
Chapter 18: Cornwall: Saints, Salts, Sea, and Sun	292	(17)
Penzance: As in "The Pirates of..."	294	(6)
Getting to Penzance	294	(1)
Finding information and taking a tour of Penzance	295	(1)
Staying in Penzance	295	(1)
Dining in Penzance	296	(2)
Exploring in and around Penzance	298	(2)
The Penwith Peninsula: A Driving Tour from Penzance to Land's End	300	(2)
Stop #1: Newlyn	300	(1)
Stop #2: Mousehole	301	(1)
Stop #3: The Minack Theatre	301	(1)
Stop #4: Land's End	302	(1)
St. Ives: Artists' Haven by the Sea	302	(4)
Getting to St. Ives	302	(1)
Finding information about St. Ives	303	(1)
Staying in St. Ives	303	(1)
Dining in St. Ives	304	(1)
Exploring St. Ives	304	(1)
Finding more to see near St. Ives	305	(1)
Fowey and the Saint's Way: River Town and Holy Track	306	(1)
Cotehele, Eden Project, and Lanhydrock: Three Great Cornish Gardens	307	(4)
Cotehele	307	(1)
Eden Project	308	(1)
Lanhydrock	308	(1)
Part VI: England's Heartland	309	(42)
Chapter 19: Stratford-upon-Avon and Warwick Castle	311	(14)
Stratford-upon-Avon: In the Bard's Footsteps	311	(10)
Getting to Stratford-upon-Avon	312	(1)
Finding information about Stratford-upon-Avon	313	(1)
Getting around and touring Stratford-upon-Avon	313	(1)
Staying in Stratford-upon-Avon	313	(2)
Dining in Stratford-upon-Avon	315	(2)
Exploring the best of Stratford-upon-Avon	317	(3)
Finding more to see and do in Stratford-upon-Avon	320	(1)
Seeing a play in Stratford-upon-Avon	321	(1)
Shopping in Stratford-upon-Avon	321	(1)
Warwick Castle: Warlords and Ladies	321	(4)
Getting to Warwick	322	(1)
Dining at Warwick Castle	322	(1)
Exploring Warwick Castle	322	(2)
Finding more to see and do in Warwick	324	(1)
Chapter 20: Bath and the Best of the Cotswolds	325	(26)
Bath: Hot Mineral Springs and Cool Georgian Splendor	326	(8)
Getting to Bath	326	(2)
Finding information and taking a tour of Bath	328	(1)
Exchanging money and locating ATMs	328	(1)
Staying in and around Bath	329	(1)
Dining in Bath	330	(2)
Exploring Bath	332	(2)
Cheltenham: A Little Bath	334	(4)
Getting to Cheltenham	335	(1)
Traveling among the local villages	335	(1)
Finding information and taking a tour of Cheltenham	335	(1)
Staying in Cheltenham	335	(1)
Dining in Cheltenham	336	(1)
Exploring Cheltenham	337	(1)
Shopping in Cheltenham	338	(1)
Bourton-on-the-Water: Bridges on the Windrush	338	(2)
Getting to Bourton-on-the-Water	338	(1)
Stopping for a spot of tea in Bourton-on-the-Water	339	(1)
Exploring Bourton-on-the-Water	339	(1)
Upper Slaughter and Lower Slaughter: Quiet and Atmospheric	340	(1)
Broadway: Village Shopping	340	(2)
Getting to Broadway	340	(1)
Finding information about Broadway	341	(1)
Staying in Broadway	341	(1)
Stopping for a spot of tea in Broadway	341	(1)
Exploring Broadway and vicinity	341	(1)
Chipping Campden: Picture Perfect	342	(2)
Getting to Chipping Campden	342	(1)
Staying and dining in Chipping Campden	342	(2)
Exploring Chipping Campden	344	(1)
Cirencester: Market Town with a Roman Past	344	(7)
Getting to Cirencester	344	(1)
Finding information about Cirencester	344	(1)
Staying in Cirencester	344	(1)
Dining in Cirencester	345	(1)
Exploring Cirencester	346	(1)
Shopping in Cirencestei	347	(4)
Part VII Way Up North
Chapter 21: Yorkshire	351	(26)
York: Ancient Walls and Snickelways	352	(14)
Getting to York	353	(1)
Renting a car or calling a taxi	354	(1)
Finding information about York	354	(1)
Exchanging money and locating ATMs	354	(1)
Taking a tour in York	355	(1)
Staying in York	356	(1)
Dining in York	357	(2)
Exploring York	359	(5)
Shopping in York	364	(1)
Stepping out at night in York	364	(1)
Day-tripping from York: Castle Howard and Eden Camp	365	(1)
Scarborough: Cliffs and Arcades	366	(6)
Getting to Scarborough	367	(1)
Getting around Scarborough	367	(1)
Finding information and taking a tour of Scarborough	367	(1)
Staying in Scarborough	367	(2)
Dining in Scarborough	369	(1)
Exploring Scarborough	369	(3)
Seeing the performing arts in Scarborough	372	(1)
Yorkshire's Two National Parks: Moors and Dales	372	(3)
North York Moors National Park	372	(2)
Yorkshire Dales National Park	374	(1)
Haworth: On the Trail of the Brontes	375	(2)
Getting to Haworth	375	(1)
Finding information and taking a tour of Haworth	375	(1)
Dining in Haworth	376	(1)
Exploring Haworth	376	(1)
Chapter 22: The Lake District	377	(22)
The Lake District: Natural Beauty and Literary Treasures	379	(2)
Getting to the Lake District	379	(1)
Getting around the Lake District	380	(1)
Taking a tour of the Lake District	380	(1)
Lake Windermere: The Largest Lake in England	381	(6)
Finding information and exchanging money near Lake Windermere	381	(1)
Touring by boat or foot	381	(1)
Staying near Lake Windermere	382	(1)
Dining near Lake Windermere	383	(2)
Exploring around Lake Windermere	385	(2)
Grasmere: Wordsworth Territory	387	(5)
Finding information about Grasmere	387	(1)
Touring on foot	387	(1)
Staying in and around Grasmere	388	(1)
Dining in Grasmere	389	(1)
Exploring in and around Grasmere	390	(2)
Keswick: Lakeland Central	392	(9)
Getting to Keswick	392	(1)
Finding information and exchanging money at Keswick	392	(1)
Staying in or near Keswick	392	(2)
Dining in Keswick	394	(1)
Exploring in and around Keswick	395	(2)
Shopping in Keswick	397	(1)
Discovering Keswick's performing arts	397	(2)
Part VIII: The Part of Tens	399	(23)
Chapter 23: Ten Writers and the Places They Lived	401	(4)
Jane Austen	401	(1)
Charlotte, Emily, and Anne Bronte	402	(1)
Charles Dickens	402	(1)
Henry James (and E.F. Benson)	403	(1)
Beatrix Potter	403	(1)
Vita Sackville-West	403	(1)
William Shakespeare	404	(1)
William Wordsworth	404	(1)
Chapter 24: Ten Great English Gardens	405	(4)
Castle Howard	405	(1)
Chelsea Physic Garden	406	(1)
Eden Project	406	(1)
Hever Castle	406	(1)
Hidcote Manor	407	(1)
Kew Gardens	407	(1)
Lanhydrock	407	(1)
Sissinghurst Castle Garden	407	(1)
Stourhead	408	(1)
Warwick Castle	408	(1)
Chapter 25: Ten (Or So) Great English Churches	409	(4)
Canterbury Cathedral: Pilgrim Central	409	(1)
Exeter Cathedral: A Medieval Sculpture Gallery	410	(1)
King's College Chapel: Unparalleled Lightness	410	(1)
St. Martin-in-the-Fields: West End Landmark	410	(1)
St. Paul's Cathedral: Wren's Crowning Achievement	411	(1)
Salisbury Cathedral: High in the Sky	411	(1)
Westminster Abbey: England's Crowning Glory	411	(1)
Winchester Cathedral: Saxon Power Base	412	(1)
York Minster: England's Largest Gothic Church	412	(1)
Chapter 26: Ten Important Royals Past and Present	413	(9)
Queen Boudicca (A.D. 30?-60): Braveheart of the Britons	413	(1)
Alfred the Great (849-899): A Warrior and a Scholar	414	(1)
William the Conqueror (1028-1087): Winner Takes All	415	(1)
Henry II (1133-1189): Family Plots	416	(1)
Henry VIII (1491-1547): Take My Wife — Please!	416	(1)
Elizabeth I (1533-1603): Heart and Stomach of a King	417	(1)
George III (1738-1820): "My Lords and Peacocks..."	418	(1)
George IV (1762-1830): A Dandy King for the Regency	419	(1)
Queen Victoria (1819-1901): Mother of Monarchs	420	(1)
Queen Elizabeth II (1926- ): Monarchy Amid Media	421	(1)
Appendix: Quick Concierge	422	(11)
Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites	427	(2)
Major airlines serving England	427	(1)
Major car-rental agencies operating in England	428	(1)
Major hotel chains in England	428	(1)
Where to Get More Information	429	(4)
Locating tourist offices	429	(1)
Surfing the Net	430	(3)
Index	433