Acknowledgements | p. III |
Introduction | p. VII |
General Information | p. 1 |
Background Information | p. 3 |
Geography and climate | p. 3 |
History | p. 5 |
Government and politics | p. 34 |
Economy | p. 35 |
People | p. 36 |
Language | p. 37 |
Religion | p. 37 |
Cultural etiquette | p. 37 |
Vernacular architecture | p. 39 |
Practical Information | p. 43 |
When to visit | p. 43 |
Suggested itineraries | p. 43 |
Tourist information and services | p. 45 |
Red tape | p. 45 |
Eritrean embassies and consulates overseas | p. 47 |
Getting there and away | p. 49 |
Health | p. 50 |
Safety | p. 59 |
What to take | p. 62 |
Money | p. 63 |
Budgeting | p. 64 |
Getting around | p. 66 |
Accommodation | p. 67 |
Eating and drinking | p. 68 |
Public holidays | p. 70 |
Shopping | p. 70 |
Arts and entertainment | p. 71 |
Media and communications | p. 74 |
Electricity | p. 75 |
Business | p. 75 |
Giving something back | p. 75 |
The Guide | p. 77 |
Asmara | p. 79 |
History | p. 79 |
Getting there | p. 87 |
Getting around | p. 88 |
Where to stay | p. 89 |
Where to eat | p. 95 |
Nightlife | p. 99 |
Shopping | p. 100 |
Other practicalities | p. 101 |
What to see: Asmara walks | p. 102 |
What to see: other places of interest | p. 121 |
Asmara to Massawa | p. 123 |
When to visit | p. 123 |
The route from Asmara to Massawa | p. 123 |
Massawa | p. 128 |
Massawa Island | p. 144 |
The Islands | p. 155 |
Geography | p. 155 |
Getting there and around | p. 159 |
The inner islands | p. 159 |
What to see | p. 160 |
Business | p. 163 |
Through Dankalia: Massawa to Assab | p. 167 |
When to visit | p. 170 |
Getting there | p. 170 |
What to take | p. 171 |
Getting around | p. 172 |
Assab and the South Coast | p. 181 |
History | p. 181 |
Getting there | p. 183 |
Getting around | p. 183 |
Where to stay | p. 183 |
Where to eat | p. 184 |
Shopping | p. 186 |
Other practicalities | p. 186 |
What to see | p. 186 |
Asmara to Keren and Nakfa | p. 187 |
Keren | p. 187 |
Keren to Afabet and Nakfa | p. 199 |
Afabet | p. 202 |
Nakfa and environs | p. 203 |
The Western Lowlands | p. 207 |
Getting there | p. 207 |
Agordat | p. 208 |
Barentu | p. 211 |
South of Barentu | p. 213 |
Tessenei | p. 215 |
The Southern Highlands | p. 219 |
Getting there: Asmara to Senafe | p. 219 |
Decemhare | p. 220 |
Beyond Decemhare | p. 222 |
Adi Keih | p. 223 |
Senafe | p. 226 |
Getting there: Asmara to Ghundet | p. 228 |
Mendefera | p. 228 |
Adi Qala | p. 231 |
Language | p. 233 |
Further Reading | p. 239 |
Index | p. 245 |
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